I love the most random frame - Pro Kennex Kinetic Pro 7g

[Tennissee]

Yes the 7g has more power than the 5 series, .....

There are currently 4 5g, 3 7g, 1 Redondo 98, 1 Redondo 93, and 1 Black Ace 98 in my bag. No, I don't use more than 2, 3 of them each outing. But I feel less secure when I don't have several 5g's there in the bag, even on a day when I only used Redondo.

I typically use 5g in the afternoon on hot days and 7g early in the morning and on colder days. I don't really feel the extra 0.25". I think the extra power, especially in the upper loop of 7g, comes more from a slightly stiffer material/construction. Not sure about that though.

 

[mikeler]

Been almost 3 months now into my love affair with the 7G. This is the perfect frame for my game AND arm.

 

[eldub20]

Modified 7G's are back in the bag!

After searching for a lighter stick than the 7G (felt a bit heavy for me in tourney play), I played with the RDiS 200L for a few months but even the lighter overall weight (11oz) of the Yonex compared to 11.9 oz felt a bit heavy to swing because of the less HL balance.

About a week ago, I decided to get the butt cylinder out of the 7G to reduce the overall weight and added approx. 6g in the handle to get to 326g (11.5 oz) strung with full PL II (my string of choice), a dampener & built up grip from 1/2 to 5/8 + overgrip.

Wow! Perfect weight for me, I feel I can play all day long with this insanely maneuverable frame & do not feel I lost any of the pinpoint accuracy of the stock version, it's still a great racquet for any kind of serve & is stable & solid on serve returns against big hitters.

For me the only slight downside compared to the Yonex is a lack of control on sliced & the squash forehand stroke also lacks in height accuracy...all other strokes I find are better with the 7G.

I can only wish I would've tried that experiment earlier!

Another very satisfied user of 1 of the best frame ever made IMHO!

Great job PK & please keep this winner in production for many more years!

 

[JGads]

Forgive my stupidity, but what specifically is the "butt cylinder"?

(There's a question I thought I'd never ask.)

 

[mctennis]

What year(s) were the Pro 7G's only 27"?

 

[JGads]

How about a fresh round of string/lead preferences?

I've had a Revenge/NXT hybrid that's played pretty well for a good while now, so pretty impressed with that. Usually prefer full Tour Bite in the frame, but may try a Tour Bite/NXT hybrid.

Have just a little lead at 3 and 9 (not even sure how much) but the stick is weighing in at 12.2 with dampener.

 

[eldub20]

Forgive my stupidity, but what specifically is the "butt cylinder"?

I should've called it "butt cap cylinder" I guess...It's a cylinder with a base that fits the inside of the butt cap filled with tungsten powder (or something similar to add weight) that is located inside the handle right under the butt cap. The total unit can easily be removed after removing the butt cap or you can even only remove some powder to reduce the weight if needs be. Can't remember the exact total weight but it's a little over 20g.

Hope it helps!

 

[mikeler]

How about a fresh round of string/lead preferences?

I've had a Revenge/NXT hybrid that's played pretty well for a good while now, so pretty impressed with that. Usually prefer full Tour Bite in the frame, but may try a Tour Bite/NXT hybrid.

Have just a little lead at 3 and 9 (not even sure how much) but the stick is weighing in at 12.2 with dampener.

No lead on my frame. Been playing with Weiss Cannon Black 5 Edge mains at 52# and Genesis Thunder Blast crosses at 56# on a lockout machine. This setup is SO good.

 

[JGads]

I should've called it "butt cap cylinder" I guess...It's a cylinder with a base that fits the inside of the butt cap filled with tungsten powder (or something similar to add weight) that is located inside the handle right under the butt cap. The total unit can easily be removed after removing the butt cap or you can even only remove some powder to reduce the weight if needs be. Can't remember the exact total weight but it's a little over 20g.

Hope it helps!

Interesting - would this cylinder go back in pretty easily or be a pain? I will admit there are some times when I wish the frame was a little lighter -- oddly enough, it's when I'm playing with softer hitters. Against harder hitters the 7G is absolute gold, just crushes everything back, but when there's no pace on the ball I play better with a lighter stick that I can just put the ball away with a flick of the wrist.

No lead on my frame. Been playing with Weiss Cannon Black 5 Edge mains at 52# and Genesis Thunder Blast crosses at 56# on a lockout machine. This setup is SO good.

Hmm. I have a set of B5E leftover from awhile ago. Ever try it as a full bed in the 7G or does it need a different cross?

 

[mikeler]

Hmm. I have a set of B5E leftover from awhile ago. Ever try it as a full bed in the 7G or does it need a different cross?

Like many others who use this frame, I had arm problems in the past. I did try full Polystar Energy when I had the Babolat PSTs and that was way too stiff so I've decided never to play full poly no matter what frame it is.

 

[eldub20]

Interesting - would this cylinder go back in pretty easily or be a pain? I will admit there are some times when I wish the frame was a little lighter -- oddly enough, it's when I'm playing with softer hitters. Against harder hitters the 7G is absolute gold, just crushes everything back, but when there's no pace on the ball I play better with a lighter stick that I can just put the ball away with a flick of the wrist.

Yes the cylinder would be a breeze to put back in place. You need to know that the handle is pretty stiff and I haven't been able to staple the butt cap on again (staples are not going through the handle) so I'm using 5 min. epoxy...works like a charm.

You may not even have to remove the cylinder depending on how much weight you want to remove as you could only remove the micro beads in it to reduce the weight.

As far as string/lead set up, not leaded...this frame is so stable I don't feel the need to add any. I'm addicted to Pro Line II 17, I use it full bed 56/58 with no problems at all. I've suffered from TE for quite a while and have been playing with Rip Control when dealing with pain but to me nothing beats the feeling of full soft co-poly...I tried hybriding with syn gut but can't get used to it. For me the key with co-poly is to restring every 12h or so of play to keep my elbow free of pain. Knock on wood, I've been pain free all summer.

 

[eldub20]

JGads how would you compare the BC20 to the 7G?

Never had the chance to hit with Vantage but specs seems to be in the same ballpark aside from RA & length.

 

[netman]

OK, tired of the "Most Random Frame" BS. Look back over the last 20 years and most of the great all around frames have straight 22mm widths, just like the 7g. The 5g and 7g are probably the longest running, great all court designs of the last 20 years. So stop acting like they are random. Random is a chance happening. 22mm, all graphite frames that rock are common place.

-k-

 

[scotus]

Yes the cylinder would be a breeze to put back in place. You need to know that the handle is pretty stiff and I haven't been able to staple the butt cap on again (staples are not going through the handle) so I'm using 5 min. epoxy...works like a charm.

You may not even have to remove the cylinder depending on how much weight you want to remove as you could only remove the micro beads in it to reduce the weight.

As far as string/lead set up, not leaded...this frame is so stable I don't feel the need to add any. I'm addicted to Pro Line II 17, I use it full bed 56/58 with no problems at all. I've suffered from TE for quite a while and have been playing with Rip Control when dealing with pain but to me nothing beats the feeling of full soft co-poly...I tried hybriding with syn gut but can't get used to it. For me the key with co-poly is to restring every 12h or so of play to keep my elbow free of pain. Knock on wood, I've been pain free all summer.

I have never taken the butt caps off my 7Gs, but I hope what you are removing isn't part of the Kinetic System.

 

[eldub20]

I have never taken the butt caps off my 7Gs, but I hope what you are removing isn't part of the Kinetic System.

The micro beads sound is still there as they are in a kind of clear plastic bag inside the frame. I'm no expert but believe the cylinder is only there to add extra weight to the handle to get the high HL balance. The racquet feels no different than stock to me for being arm friendly.

 

[JGads]

JGads how would you compare the BC20 to the 7G?

Never had the chance to hit with Vantage but specs seems to be in the same ballpark aside from RA & length.

Different sticks, each with their charms. The 7G hits heavier, laser line drives a lot more effortlessly and is MUCH better on first serve, the BC20 is a lot more maneuverable and definitely hits a spinnier ball. For me I have more success with the line drives of the 7G, whereas the BC20 spin sometimes doesn't go THROUGH the court quite enough -- it can, you just have to hit it right. The BC20 is an absolute delight, don't get me wrong, one of the very best frames I've ever experienced, but the unique recoil effect it has (very unique aspect) bit me too often on first serves, where it was hard to gauge when/how it would flex. The 7G, meanwhile, you always know just what it will do, just a matter of you hitting the shot. ... I think I'm finally going to sell off my 20 because the PKs have just beaten it out overall. (it's interesting - when I'm just rallying the BC20 is my favorite frame, but then every time I play match play the solidity of the PKs makes me play better when I need to, the solidity of frame more trustworthy than the BC20 recoil.

By the way, will have to try PLII soon in my 7G. I love Tour Bite as my go-to string, but it just goes dead so quickly that I like to have my backup with something else that's longer lasting. PLII fit the description?

OK, tired of the "Most Random Frame" BS. Look back over the last 20 years and most of the great all around frames have straight 22mm widths, just like the 7g. The 5g and 7g are probably the longest running, great all court designs of the last 20 years. So stop acting like they are random. Random is a chance happening. 22mm, all graphite frames that rock are common place.

-k-

Don't think we're all labeling the frame as being so random, just think this has just become the de facto 7G thread with the most discussion of it, so we continue on with what the OP started. Can't change thread titles, methinks.

 

[eldub20]

Different sticks, each with their charms. The 7G hits heavier, laser line drives a lot more effortlessly and is MUCH better on first serve, the BC20 is a lot more maneuverable and definitely hits a spinnier ball. For me I have more success with the line drives of the 7G, whereas the BC20 spin sometimes doesn't go THROUGH the court quite enough -- it can, you just have to hit it right. The BC20 is an absolute delight, don't get me wrong, one of the very best frames I've ever experienced, but the unique recoil effect it has (very unique aspect) bit me too often on first serves, where it was hard to gauge when/how it would flex. The 7G, meanwhile, you always know just what it will do, just a matter of you hitting the shot. ... I think I'm finally going to sell off my 20 because the PKs have just beaten it out overall. (it's interesting - when I'm just rallying the BC20 is my favorite frame, but then every time I play match play the solidity of the PKs makes me play better when I need to, the solidity of frame more trustworthy than the BC20 recoil.

Thanks for the comparison, seems like a nice frame but the recoil effect is a downside for sure.

By the way, will have to try PLII soon in my 7G. I love Tour Bite as my go-to string, but it just goes dead so quickly that I like to have my backup with something else that's longer lasting. PLII fit the description?

Never tried Tour Bite, but have used PLII 17 in several frames and it's a clear winner for me. I love the ball pocketing & feel I get from this co-poly awesome on drop shots...but some people feel it's garbage...gotta try it to see if it fits what you're looking for in a string.

Don't think we're all labeling the frame as being so random, just think this has just become the de facto 7G thread with the most discussion of it, so we continue on with what the OP started. Can't change thread titles, methinks.

Couldn't agree more with this:!:

 

[JGads]

I love me some pocketing, but I also like strings that are more crisp rather than soft/muted... Good thing, though, is that the 7G, being pretty crisp to begin with, can handle soft strings better than many.

 

[scotus]

The micro beads sound is still there as they are in a kind of clear plastic bag inside the frame. I'm no expert but believe the cylinder is only there to add extra weight to the handle to get the high HL balance. The racquet feels no different than stock to me for being arm friendly.

At least a part of the Kinetic System is inside the hoop--tiny beads contained in chambers of plastic bubbles. I have seen one poster dissect the hoop of a PK.

But I don't know whether the handle also has a Kinetic System in 7G. Some Kinetic models available in Asia have clear windows built in right above the handle to let you see the kinetic system in action.

 

[eldub20]

At least a part of the Kinetic System is inside the hoop--tiny beads contained in chambers of plastic bubbles. I have seen one poster dissect the hoop of a PK.

But I don't know whether the handle also has a Kinetic System in 7G. Some Kinetic models available in Asia have clear windows built in right above the handle to let you see the kinetic system in action.

Cool...any pics of the hoop surgery or the frames with transparent parts?

You can actually see the knot at the end of the clear plastic bag approx. 4-5" from the handle opening when removing the butt cap & cylinder. Doesn't look like it does much for the handle IMHO. I believe you are right, the technology works in the hoop upon ball impact.

 

[my76]

Can anyone out there do a comparison of 7g and Ki5x,I have a couple of 5x's that I cut down to 27" because the extra length felt a bit cumbersome.It may have been all in my mind or just a feeling that I wasn't used to because I can't say for sure I play better with them cut down just that they feel slightly more maneuverable.I really love everything about these rackets but the 7g has always interested me because of all the positive comments about it compared to almost nothing ever said about what I think is by far the best racket I've ever hit: the Ki 5x.

 

[scotus]

Cool...any pics of the hoop surgery or the frames with transparent parts?

You can actually see the knot at the end of the clear plastic bag approx. 4-5" from the handle opening when removing the butt cap & cylinder. Doesn't look like it does much for the handle IMHO. I believe you are right, the technology works in the hoop upon ball impact.

The pic is--or at least used to be--in this forum.

I ran a few searches but to no avail.

 

[eldub20]

The pic is--or at least used to be--in this forum.

I ran a few searches but to no avail.

Thanks, I will give it a try too.

 

[levy1]

I would love to try the 7g but cannot because of weight. I need to be at 11.6 or less with 5-7 points head light. I see the weight can be taken out of the handle but wouldnt it be way to head heavy?
My current Destiny sticks are 11.3 with 4grams lead at 12 and 10 grams in the but cap. Please tell me it can be done and how!

 

[Power Player]

It would not. The racquet is 9 points HL stock and would probably be around 5 or so after. For me, that is better, but everyone is different.

 

[levy1]

It would not. The racquet is 9 points HL stock and would probably be around 5 or so after. For me, that is better, but everyone is different.

You helped me with my current best setup I ever used. So tell me how I can modify it please and I will order one.
Thanks
Fred

 

[Power Player]

I think they described a few posts above. I didn't modify my 7Gs when I had them.

See if one of the guys here can give you an idea of balance, but if it is around 5 points HL I think that would be good.

 

[eldub20]

You helped me with my current best setup I ever used. So tell me how I can modify it please and I will order one.
Thanks
Fred

levy1, I'll do what I can to help but can't garantee you'll be in the HL balance range you are looking for but am thinking like Power Player that you should end up around 5HL.

You have to take in consideration that I had to build up the handle from 1/2 to 5/8 and it took roughly 10g of duct tape to achieve it (I only put tape on the horizontal & vertical side of the grip, none on the diagonal bevels).

I'm still experimenting a bit with my racquets, here are the specs:
1) 326g/11.5oz 8HL (this stick was more HL than the other one when stock)
2) 329g/11.6oz 7HL

We learn from our errors, unfortunately I didn't take the specs of both racquets before starting modifying them (way back) so I can't give you accurate stock specs.
--------------
If you decide to buy a 7G, here are the items you'll need & steps to follow to remove some weight:

Items needed:
-accurate scale (digital preferably)
-small flat screwdriver
-5 min. epoxy
-double sided tape
-margarine container cover (or something similar you will throw to the garbage when done applying epoxy)
-1 popsicle stick
-paper towel
-rubbing alcohol
-Grip finishing tape

Detailed Steps:
A-Weight & check the balance of your new strung racquet in order to know how much weight you need to remove to get to your ideal racquet weight & also t keep track of you stock weight & balance point.

B-Remove the grip & butt cap (need to remove some staples to get the butt cap off).

C-The butt cap cylinder will maybe not come off when you remove the butt cap. If it does, great. If it doesn't use a small flat screwdriver to pry off the cylinder base from the racquet handle...it should come off pretty easily.

D-If you are only looking at removing 0.1 to 0.2 oz you should be able to remove it from the cylinder. Just use your flat screwdriver to gently pry off the red rubber plug off the cylinder. Be gentle here if you do not want those micro beads to fly everywhere.

E-Once the red plug removed, put a small plastic cup on your scale & turn the scale off & on to zero it in with the container. Remove the weight you need + approx. 2g more to make for the epoxy & doubles sided tape you will use later on.

F-You should be ready to put the cylinder base back in the butt cap (do not use epoxy), use a margarine container cover to pour your 2 parts of 5 min. epoxy of the same quantity (about size of a nickel for each part should do it) and use popsicle stick or something similar you will throw to the garbage after having mix the 2 parts together for 30-45 sec. (draw circles with the 2 parts to ensure you mix it properly).

G-Now you are ready to apply a light coat of epoxy to the base of the handle (about an inch) and the inside walls of the butt cap. When done put the butt cap back in place on the handle and putt the butt cap on the floor and push downwards on the head of the racquet to make sure the handle is at the bottom of the butt cap.

H-Now put a bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and wipe the epoxy excess around the butt cap/handle junction. Let it set/cure for at least 30 min.

I-You can cut 2 strips (1/2" wide) of double sided tape to put on the length of the 2 widest part of the handle, apply the tape from the butt cap to the highest part where the grip will be. Remove the top part of the 2 sided tape and re-install grip by inserting the tip of the grip in the slotted part of the butt cap & start rolling it around the handle. Use grip finishing tape to secure the grip.

Voilà! You have your modified 7G.

I hope I didn't miss anything, if so I'm sure other experienced DIY'ers will comment.

P.S. I always wait at least 12h before taking the racquet out for a hit to ensure the epoxy is fully cured. Check the instructions on the epoxy seringe to be sure...maybe they recommend waiting 24 h.

 

[2handsbothsides]

The micro beads sound is still there as they are in a kind of clear plastic bag inside the frame. I'm no expert but believe the cylinder is only there to add extra weight to the handle to get the high HL balance. The racquet feels no different than stock to me for being arm friendly.

I have taken my 7G butt cap and cylinder off and the cylinder with beads in it is part of the kinetic system and not just to add weight. You could remove some of the beads and refill with a lighter material if you really needed to take out some weight but it will affect the response some.

I have used this racquet extended to 28" and it has excellent potential but have not made the switch from the POG longbody.

 

[eldub20]

I have taken my 7G butt cap and cylinder off and the cylinder with beads in it is part of the kinetic system and not just to add weight. You could remove some of the beads and refill with a lighter material if you really needed to take out some weight but it will affect the response some.

Here is the Kinetic System explanation from the racquet technology tab on TW: "Thousands of micro-bearings are housed inside chambers around the racquet head. As the racquet swings forward, the micro-bearings move to the back wall of the frame, loading energy. When the racquet strikes the ball, this kinetic mass transfers forward, adding power and reducing frame shock and vibration."

Can someone explain how the cylinder is part of the system? I just can't see how it would be because the beads are isolated in a small cylinder (compared to the whole handle width & length) and not all around the handle walls. Maybe I'm missing something.

For me the bottom line is that I don't feel any difference in shock reduction with or without the cylinder in the handle. Other people could experience something different, I can only share my experience.;-)

 

[my76]

For me the bottom line is that I don't feel any difference in shock reduction with or without the cylinder in the handle. Other people could experience something different, I can only share my experience.


I can confirm this because when cutting down my 5x's to standard length I noticed that one of the rackets contained the chamber with beads in the handle and the other didn't.Both rackets were bought new from TW both weigh the same and have the same balance, both play the same and are equally arm friendly.I suspect the chamber in the handle is an easy way for them to adjust the balance if needed by adding more or less of the beads or in the case of my racket none at all.

 

[levy1]

levy1, I'll do what I can to help but can't garantee you'll be in the HL balance range you are looking for but am thinking like Power Player that you should end up around 5HL.

You have to take in consideration that I had to build up the handle from 1/2 to 5/8 and it took roughly 10g of duct tape to achieve it (I only put tape on the horizontal & vertical side of the grip, none on the diagonal bevels).

I'm still experimenting a bit with my racquets, here are the specs:
1) 326g/11.5oz 8HL (this stick was more HL than the other one when stock)
2) 329g/11.6oz 7HL

We learn from our errors, unfortunately I didn't take the specs of both racquets before starting modifying them (way back) so I can't give you accurate stock specs.
--------------
If you decide to buy a 7G, here are the items you'll need & steps to follow to remove some weight:

Items needed:
-accurate scale (digital preferably)
-small flat screwdriver
-5 min. epoxy
-double sided tape
-margarine container cover (or something similar you will throw to the garbage when done applying epoxy)
-1 popsicle stick
-paper towel
-rubbing alcohol
-Grip finishing tape

Detailed Steps:
A-Weight & check the balance of your new strung racquet in order to know how much weight you need to remove to get to your ideal racquet weight & also t keep track of you stock weight & balance point.

B-Remove the grip & butt cap (need to remove some staples to get the butt cap off).

C-The butt cap cylinder will maybe not come off when you remove the butt cap. If it does, great. If it doesn't use a small flat screwdriver to pry off the cylinder base from the racquet handle...it should come off pretty easily.

D-If you are only looking at removing 0.1 to 0.2 oz you should be able to remove it from the cylinder. Just use your flat screwdriver to gently pry off the red rubber plug off the cylinder. Be gentle here if you do not want those micro beads to fly everywhere.

E-Once the red plug removed, put a small plastic cup on your scale & turn the scale off & on to zero it in with the container. Remove the weight you need + approx. 2g more to make for the epoxy & doubles sided tape you will use later on.

F-You should be ready to put the cylinder base back in the butt cap (do not use epoxy), use a margarine container cover to pour your 2 parts of 5 min. epoxy of the same quantity (about size of a nickel for each part should do it) and use popsicle stick or something similar you will throw to the garbage after having mix the 2 parts together for 30-45 sec. (draw circles with the 2 parts to ensure you mix it properly).

G-Now you are ready to apply a light coat of epoxy to the base of the handle (about an inch) and the inside walls of the butt cap. When done put the butt cap back in place on the handle and putt the butt cap on the floor and push downwards on the head of the racquet to make sure the handle is at the bottom of the butt cap.

H-Now put a bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and wipe the epoxy excess around the butt cap/handle junction. Let it set/cure for at least 30 min.

I-You can cut 2 strips (1/2" wide) of double sided tape to put on the length of the 2 widest part of the handle, apply the tape from the butt cap to the highest part where the grip will be. Remove the top part of the 2 sided tape and re-install grip by inserting the tip of the grip in the slotted part of the butt cap & start rolling it around the handle. Use grip finishing tape to secure the grip.

Voilà! You have your modified 7G.

I hope I didn't miss anything, if so I'm sure other experienced DIY'ers will comment.

P.S. I always wait at least 12h before taking the racquet out for a hit to ensure the epoxy is fully cured. Check the instructions on the epoxy seringe to be sure...maybe they recommend waiting 24 h.

Thank you for the help

 

[levy1]

After searching for a lighter stick than the 7G (felt a bit heavy for me in tourney play), I played with the RDiS 200L for a few months but even the lighter overall weight (11oz) of the Yonex compared to 11.9 oz felt a bit heavy to swing because of the less HL balance.

About a week ago, I decided to get the butt cylinder out of the 7G to reduce the overall weight and added approx. 6g in the handle to get to 326g (11.5 oz) strung with full PL II (my string of choice), a dampener & built up grip from 1/2 to 5/8 + overgrip.

Wow! Perfect weight for me, I feel I can play all day long with this insanely maneuverable frame & do not feel I lost any of the pinpoint accuracy of the stock version, it's still a great racquet for any kind of serve & is stable & solid on serve returns against big hitters.



For me the only slight downside compared to the Yonex is a lack of control on sliced & the squash forehand stroke also lacks in height accuracy...all other strokes I find are better with the 7G.

I can only wish I would've tried that experiment earlier!

Another very satisfied user of 1 of the best frame ever made IMHO!

Great job PK & please keep this winner in production for many more years!

After the mods do you have any idea of the balance?

 

[levy1]

Here is the Kinetic System explanation from the racquet technology tab on TW: "Thousands of micro-bearings are housed inside chambers around the racquet head. As the racquet swings forward, the micro-bearings move to the back wall of the frame, loading energy. When the racquet strikes the ball, this kinetic mass transfers forward, adding power and reducing frame shock and vibration."

Can someone explain how the cylinder is part of the system? I just can't see how it would be because the beads are isolated in a small cylinder (compared to the whole handle width & length) and not all around the handle walls. Maybe I'm missing something.

For me the bottom line is that I don't feel any difference in shock reduction with or without the cylinder in the handle. Other people could experience something different, I can only share my experience.;-)

I dont understand. I thought the beads were in the handle?

 

[eldub20]

I can confirm this because when cutting down my 5x's to standard length I noticed that one of the rackets contained the chamber with beads in the handle and the other didn't.Both rackets were bought new from TW both weigh the same and have the same balance, both play the same and are equally arm friendly.I suspect the chamber in the handle is an easy way for them to adjust the balance if needed by adding more or less of the beads or in the case of my racket none at all.

Very interesting, thanks for sharing.

 

[eldub20]

After the mods do you have any idea of the balance?

You're welcome Fred.

The specs listed in my long post including the balance are the modified ones, 326g is 8HL & 329g is 7HL.

The micro beads are all around the hoop down to about 4-5" from the bottom of the handle. You should not remove any of those beads. There are also some in the butt cap cylinder (I'm guesstimating anywhere between 5g to 12g). I believe you can remove some from the cylinder without any impact on on the shock/vibration dampening of the Kinetic system.

Hope it helps!

 

[overgrip]

Pro Kennex kinetic 7g

I started using the 7g after developing an arthritic wrist, which I have to heavily tape when playing. Turns out the "kinetic effect" is not hype. This racket greatly reduces pain. Are there any competing brands that play similar and cut pain? I would also like to know stringing specifications that would aid in saving my wrist. I currently use Prince premier strung around 55.

 

[Tennissee]

Kinetic Effect or Not ...

Okay, I feel like I should say something about the "kinetic effect." Not to take anything away from PK's kinetic technology, but I think Pro Kennex sticks are good for your arm, and more importantly your game, in general with or without KE. Type R is from the same mold as PK 5g (which is from the same mold as PK 7g) but without KE. Yet it is also an excellent player's stick that's safe for arm/wrist/elbow/shoulder ...

I think most PK sticks are just well designed and are good player's stick with or without KE. Unfortunately a lot of people just thought they shouldn't bother looking at PK if they don't have tennis elbow or other similar problems. PK was the biggest racquet maker in the world long before people realized and started to label their products as the best racquets for pain management and healing. There are plenty of us who don't have any wrist/elbow issue but use PK simply because it happens to be the best racquet for our games.

 

[my76]

I think most PK sticks are just well designed and are good player's stick with or without KE. Unfortunately a lot of people just thought they shouldn't bother looking at PK if they don't have tennis elbow or other similar problems. PK was the biggest racquet maker in the world long before people realized and started to label their products as the best racquets for pain management and healing. There are plenty of us who don't have any wrist/elbow issue but use PK simply because it happens to be the best racquet for our games.

Nicely said,and I would add that even people looking for something arm friendly will avoid Prokennex rackets because because of the pain management reputation perhaps thinking they will sacrifice performance.Also more impressionable people may not look at PK because they don't hire pros to advertise for them.

 

[mikeler]

Im probably hitting the ball better now than I ever have with my PK 7G. The big "four O" is a year and change away.

 

[JGads]

Yeah, I play with my PK sticks (7G and Ace Mid) because they play the best out of any of the frames I've tried; not because of the arm health aspect.

 

[jgb3363]

Shortened PK 7G

Can anyone out there do a comparison of 7g and Ki5x,I have a couple of 5x's that I cut down to 27" because the extra length felt a bit cumbersome.It may have been all in my mind or just a feeling that I wasn't used to because I can't say for sure I play better with them cut down just that they feel slightly more maneuverable.I really love everything about these rackets but the 7g has always interested me because of all the positive comments about it compared to almost nothing ever said about what I think is by far the best racket I've ever hit: the Ki 5x.

Has anyone any experience of a shortened 7G? Does it lose it's magic? I love the effortless cannon like power and comfort, but I' do feel on occasion I am attempting to manouevre an oar (my fault I know, but with short legs I'm not always in the right spot)

 

[mikeler]

Has anyone any experience of a shortened 7G? Does it lose it's magic? I love the effortless cannon like power and comfort, but I' do feel on occasion I am attempting to manouevre an oar (my fault I know, but with short legs I'm not always in the right spot)

Have you tried choking up on the handle? Sometimes at the end of a 3rd set, I do feel like it gets hard to wield.

 

[wmilas]

After reading all the praises I had to order a demo from TW to give it a try. I'm curious how it plays compared to my beloved Yonix RdIS 100's

 

[jgb3363]

Have you tried choking up on the handle? Sometimes at the end of a 3rd set, I do feel like it gets hard to wield.

I do find myself doing that on volleys almost without thinking about it, but I'm interested to know if anyone has taken the plunge and shortened the 7g without ruining its strengths. I also have a Ki5, but apart from the length I far prefer the 7g.

 

[JGads]

The ability to choke up slightly when not feeling 100 percent - and something I do normally on second serves to really whip the kicker - makes the frame so versatile in those situations, as you can take advantage of the extra length on the backhand and first serve and shorten up a little when you need to on kickers, slices and some forehands. Such a great stick.

 

[scotus]

I do find myself doing that on volleys almost without thinking about it, but I'm interested to know if anyone has taken the plunge and shortened the 7g without ruining its strengths. I also have a Ki5, but apart from the length I far prefer the 7g.

Have you tried the 5G?

 

[jgb3363]

Have you tried the 5G?

I have and I'm not such a fan of the 5g. The 7g is such a fantastic racket in terms of comfort power and control, but until now, I've always used a 27" and I'm used to the mobility. I think I could get away with 27 and a 1/4, but 27.5" does seem a bit unwieldy at times. Doesn't sound as if anyone has taken the plunge and cut the 7g down to standard.

 

[mikeler]

I have and I'm not such a fan of the 5g. The 7g is such a fantastic racket in terms of comfort power and control, but until now, I've always used a 27" and I'm used to the mobility. I think I could get away with 27 and a 1/4, but 27.5" does seem a bit unwieldy at times. Doesn't sound as if anyone has taken the plunge and cut the 7g down to standard.

It would be ashame if you cut the 7G and it felt like a 5G!

 

[jgb3363]

It would be ashame if you cut the 7G and it felt like a 5G!

Quite. I'm not sure I can bring myself to do it. I was hoping someone else had already done it...I'll play with a bit more and see if mileage runs it in.