In praise of Kevlar/ZX hybrid!!!

@Shroud , what is the RA of the racket you are using? I would be inclined to try Ash Kev/4G in a RA 69+ racket. I used it in a Microgel OS and thought I had to swing the racket like FAA-lite to get anything "happening." Realize also my next B-day will be my 68th, so there is that Margaret Court sort of thing going on with my technique:)
 
@Shroud , what is the RA of the racket you are using? I would be inclined to try Ash Kev/4G in a RA 69+ racket. I used it in a Microgel OS and thought I had to swing the racket like FAA-lite to get anything "happening." Realize also my next B-day will be my 68th, so there is that Margaret Court sort of thing going on with my technique:)
Its a 70RA and man I wish it was 80. Margaret Court would beat half this board probably at her current age. 68 is nothing man. LeeD is like 210
 
For me, a dent-resistant poly works when I don’t have zx available. Feels almost the same when you adjust tension to match stiffness. But zx is better because of the more linear power response at the top end, which is most noticeable for me when I’m trying to serve big. The kev/zx doesn’t reward the powerful swings as much.

On the low speed stuff they feel similar.
 
Thanks for all the feedback, guys. The plan is still Kev/ZXP @ 60 to start (in weighted-up low RA PT57As) and then Kev/4G after that if the ZXP is too lively. Dropped the racquets off to be strung, but the stringer called me back to say that the half set of Ashaway Kevlar 16 from TW wasn’t 20 feet, so he couldn’t do all 18 mains for a 95 inch head. It’s odd to me, because I prestretched it even further from the 1/2 set package. Ordered some more from TW to measure and see if it was a one-off occurrence, but it did happen with both packages I gave him :unsure:

He said with his electric stringer he’d prefer 21’ - especially since the Kevlar doesn’t stretch much. We’ll see how it goes next weekend…
 
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The kev/zx doesn’t reward the powerful swings as much.

On the low speed stuff they feel similar.

I’m guessing you meant kev/poly doesn’t reward the powerful swings as much, right? I’d actually like that for my groundstrokes… but of course that wouldn’t be ideal for serving, yeah.
 
Power differences aside… do you find more access to spin with Kev/4G, than when using Kev/ZXP? How about 16 vs 17 gauge 4G?

cc: @Shroud @graycrait
One of the major advantages of kev/zx is that it lasts forever and gets near full poly spin. But in my case I just like a really really stiff stringbed, and I can’t string the zx high enough. If I was still using my 6.1 18x20 kev/zx would be great but using my 110” granny stick I need the 4g’s stiffness. With the higher sw I am using definitely need a stiff bed at high tensions. 4g is much stiffer so its a win for me. 16g def here. Said another way, if I could string zx at 86lbs I would probably be using it.
 
@Astonish , you may force me to retry Ash Kev x a poly, but I am not buying anymore 4G, so my experiment will be "different." I'll string up my PD one of these days with AK x and whatever poly I have that suits my fancy at the time and see that the deal is.
 
@Astonish , you may force me to retry Ash Kev x a poly, but I am not buying anymore 4G, so my experiment will be "different." I'll string up my PD one of these days with AK x and whatever poly I have that suits my fancy at the time and see that the deal is.
Max power is good with kev, mosquitobite is great too if you like thin gauge.
 
Babolat xtreme pro is my favorite dent-resistant poly as a cross for zx.

It has a brief break-in period, but not due to tension loss. During the first hour, the surface is too slippery, and the launch angle too high. Then it settles in and plays consistent until the kevlar breaks as long as you prestretch both strings well.
 
Babolat xtreme pro is my favorite dent-resistant poly as a cross for zx.

It has a brief break-in period, but not due to tension loss. During the first hour, the surface is too slippery, and the launch angle too high. Then it settles in and plays consistent until the kevlar breaks as long as you prestretch both strings well.
So confused. There are 3 strings mentioned here. What are the mains and crosses?
 
Hi, what tension would you guys recommend for my TF40? It‘s a 98 sqin 18x20.
I currently use Lynx Tour 1.3 at 23/22kg. Control-wise I would string it a bit higher but than it feels too boardy and a bit harsh for my taste. I prefer a low launch angle and relatively low powered setup.
 
So I went with 25/23.5kg (about 55/52lbs)
First two hours were great, already. Very good control, didn‘t miss much spin, feel is strange but ok. If playability duration is really as good as people say and it doesn‘t hurt my arm, this could be a good choice for me.
I didn‘t have any discomfort but I have the feeling that fresh poly is a bit more comfortable. Maybe I strung it too tight but launch angle and depth is perfect as is.
 
Nice to see this thread is still alive and well. After a lengthy test of two Head Microgel Radical OS, I have landed upon 62 lbs for the Kev mains and 50 lbs for the ZX crosses (both in 16g). With the 107 head and my specs of 369 grams 12 pts HL, the lower mains tension was just a tad too powerful. Great control and spin potential with the 62 x 50 and I still love watching my opponents reaction as the ball dives just inside the baseline . I probably get about a half dozen “out….no, in“ calls a week and still enjoy the facial expressions associated with the call.

I have not measured my frames, but I am not too concerned about it as I have been running high differential on my frames for several years and have never had a frame crack or warp on me. Besides, my current frame of choice is only $79 at the moment on TW.

Next challenge, replicating Agassi’s string setup in Kevlar/ZX. Last mains in ZX with around the world to the crosses. Agassi ran the crosses in gut and I have always wondered why he ran the last mains in gut but have yet to find out why he did so. I have heard several theories, but no definitive answer so I am going to give it a try in Kev/ZX. It will be a bit more challenging with the differential and may not even work, but I want to give it a go to see I can notice any differences.
 
Great control and spin potential with the 62 x 50
I usually use 65lb AK mains 58lb ZX crosses in OS rackets, but I'll try your 62/50 next time I string up one of my 107 18/19 Heads. I may try your setup in the 107 16x19 Gamma F 9.0 Diamond Fiber that is coming in tomorrow.
 
I usually use 65lb AK mains 58lb ZX crosses in OS rackets, but I'll try your 62/50 next time I string up one of my 107 18/19 Heads. I may try your setup in the 107 16x19 Gamma F 9.0 Diamond Fiber that is coming in tomorrow.
With a 16 x 19, you may need to go a bit tighter. I have found the more open the pattern, the tighter I have to go on the Kevlar.
 
Question about string savers for those who use them with Ash Kev x ZX. Note the pic below. Both PDs Ash Kev broke at the same intersection of both rackets. These PDs are swung by a guy 40 yrs younger than me who is a hard hitter and plays in a league that has a number of former D1 players. The rackets both weigh 340/12.0. Where would you put string savers? I don't think I want to put 100 of them in a 10x10 grid at the center of the racket, but I would think some uniformity in a pattern would make sense.
6gCotAd.jpg
 
Don’t do what I did the first time I tried string savers.

I was a problend user at the time, circa 2003. Stringing my Prostaff 4.7 at 70 lbs. But my stringer suggested that this poly stuff was all the new rage.

I had it strung up at my normal 70 lbs with poly. At this tension, the ball would slide right across the stringbed, and I couldn’t generate spin like I could with my trusty kevlar.

So I put in string savers to be able to grip the ball. The problem was that I put them in on every other intersection.

When my problend kevlar broke the day before the mixed dubs final of the most high-profile match of my open level tennis career, I went to my racquet strung with poly.

I didn’t play that well. And we lost in 3 sets.

It was only afterward that I discovered what the every-other-intersection pattern does. It makes only one face of the stringbed grippy, and the other side still slippery.
 
@travlerajm ,

OK, I get what you are saying but where on those rackets should I put those things as an experiment? Should I put 100 in a 10x10 grid or just where the notching seems most prevalent with symmetry on both sides of the racket? It is not as if the owner really cares because he gets good life out of the stringbed without them compared to when he was using poly. But we thought why not try some and see what happens. I was wondering if they cause the next string up or over that does not have string savers to wear faster. He hits quit a bit more than me at a higher level: trains, lessons and leagues. I currently have 3 of his rackets to restring.
 
@travlerajm ,

OK, I get what you are saying but where on those rackets should I put those things as an experiment? Should I put 100 in a 10x10 grid or just where the notching seems most prevalent with symmetry on both sides of the racket? It is not as if the owner really cares because he gets good life out of the stringbed without them compared to when he was using poly. But we thought why not try some and see what happens. I was wondering if they cause the next string up or over that does not have string savers to wear faster. He hits quit a bit more than me at a higher level: trains, lessons and leagues. I currently have 3 of his rackets to restring.
I would start with a 6 wide x 5 deep grid (30 savers) centered over the highest use region.
 
Would doing the 6 central mains help? The images appear to show you need to cover the 8 or 10 central mains with string savers. Break appears to be above the center, so 4 or 5 rows above.
 
Hi all, wanted to check back here for some questions related to Ashaway Monogut ZX - I am planning on revisiting some natural gut/zx and poly/zx hybrids and want to check if stringing monogut zx still remains the same in terms of method and care?

-I don't plan on prestretching, so I assume 60lbs would be the maximum. Maybe I could push 65 on a lockout?
-Does anyone use a parnell knot for the tie off? Or is it double half hitch?
-Does anyone use a starting clamp to tighten the knot? Or is it still "best practice" to hand tie?

Thanks!
 
Hi all, wanted to check back here for some questions related to Ashaway Monogut ZX - I am planning on revisiting some natural gut/zx and poly/zx hybrids and want to check if stringing monogut zx still remains the same in terms of method and care?

-I don't plan on prestretching, so I assume 60lbs would be the maximum. Maybe I could push 65 on a lockout?
-Does anyone use a parnell knot for the tie off? Or is it double half hitch?
-Does anyone use a starting clamp to tighten the knot? Or is it still "best practice" to hand tie?

Thanks!
I'm using ng/zx hybrid:
I use parnell knots. I was using a starting clamp to tighten, but after reading the horror stories on here and watching Rich tie off w/ his hand, that's what I'm doing. I have yet to break zx. I like low tension (40 lbs), so I'm not worried about pulling knots hard enough. I'd rather the string not break at the last knot, haha.
 
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Hi all, wanted to check back here for some questions related to Ashaway Monogut ZX - I am planning on revisiting some natural gut/zx and poly/zx hybrids and want to check if stringing monogut zx still remains the same in terms of method and care?

-I don't plan on prestretching, so I assume 60lbs would be the maximum. Maybe I could push 65 on a lockout?
-Does anyone use a parnell knot for the tie off? Or is it double half hitch?
-Does anyone use a starting clamp to tighten the knot? Or is it still "best practice" to hand tie?

Thanks!
Not prestretching or having a long pull on a constant pull machine will likely lead to tension loss in the ZX and an increasingly powerful string bed as it breaks in. Folks have pulled tighter than 60 lbs and got away with it, but it is not recommended.

Parnell knots work just fine.

I use a starting clamp to tighten the knots, but I am very cautious on how much tension I pull with it. I have had breakage pulling knots in the past as I was learning ZX, there is no warning, it just snaps. If I could find cam pliers I would use those, but I make due with a starting clamp while not trying to pull too tight.
 
Got around to hitting with the Kev/ZXP @ 60lbs, and it looks like I will be venturing towards Kev/4G after all.

For reference, my PT57As are heavily polarized, with anywhere from 3 to 5 layers of lead between 10 and 2, and silicone in the bottom 3.5 inches of the handle. Currently testing different spec combinations, but static weight is ranging from 345g-360g, balance between 32cm and 33cm, and swingweights of 360, 380, and 400, depending on the spec being tested at the time.

Even though it’s an 18x20 patterned 95” frame with RA in the high 50s, I still find myself wanting something tighter than 60lbs, thanks to the high swingweights ranging from 360-400. I think a combination of 4G crosses being lower powered than ZXP, as well as 4G being able to be strung above 60 (unlike Zyex), should allow me to find a setup that lets my aggressive strokes swing away without any lingering hesitation. The Kev/ZXP got me close, but I know there’s more potential on the table still.

That said, I’m now wondering which gauge I should go with for the 4G cross. I’ll be using 16g Kevlar (1.30) no matter what, and I was originally considering 16L 4G (1.25)… however now I’m wondering if 16g 4G (1.30) would be even lower powered for my needs. If the thinner 16L cross would allow for more spin, then that could help with depth control and increased heaviness in general… but 16g might have the edge in low-powered control. And lastly, does the 4G ever notch in this setup? Or will I be good to use it until the Kevlar mains saw through (assuming the manually-prestretched 4G doesn’t snap first)?

Thanks as always for your thoughts, guys!
 
Hey there, I‘m currently on my first test of this hybrid. I strung my TF40 98 18x20 with a tension of 55/52 lbs. I use a stringway constant pull machine and pulled the strings twice and waited till it stopped loosing more tension. So, I guess this should be like prestretching.

So my question: The first two hours were great but from there on power and launch angle increased quite a bit, so I‘m having a harder time keeping the ball in. Spin is still great but is this to be expected? Will this power/launch increase go on, or will it settle at some point? So could I string higher in the future and it will be too low powered first but finally settle in a range where I like it?
 
Hey there, I‘m currently on my first test of this hybrid. I strung my TF40 98 18x20 with a tension of 55/52 lbs. I use a stringway constant pull machine and pulled the strings twice and waited till it stopped loosing more tension. So, I guess this should be like prestretching.

So my question: The first two hours were great but from there on power and launch angle increased quite a bit, so I‘m having a harder time keeping the ball in. Spin is still great but is this to be expected? Will this power/launch increase go on, or will it settle at some point? So could I string higher in the future and it will be too low powered first but finally settle in a range where I like it?
If the stringbed is softening over time, that just means you didn’t prestretch enough.
 
Got around to hitting with the Kev/ZXP @ 60lbs, and it looks like I will be venturing towards Kev/4G after all.

For reference, my PT57As are heavily polarized, with anywhere from 3 to 5 layers of lead between 10 and 2, and silicone in the bottom 3.5 inches of the handle. Currently testing different spec combinations, but static weight is ranging from 345g-360g, balance between 32cm and 33cm, and swingweights of 360, 380, and 400, depending on the spec being tested at the time.

Even though it’s an 18x20 patterned 95” frame with RA in the high 50s, I still find myself wanting something tighter than 60lbs, thanks to the high swingweights ranging from 360-400. I think a combination of 4G crosses being lower powered than ZXP, as well as 4G being able to be strung above 60 (unlike Zyex), should allow me to find a setup that lets my aggressive strokes swing away without any lingering hesitation. The Kev/ZXP got me close, but I know there’s more potential on the table still.

That said, I’m now wondering which gauge I should go with for the 4G cross. I’ll be using 16g Kevlar (1.30) no matter what, and I was originally considering 16L 4G (1.25)… however now I’m wondering if 16g 4G (1.30) would be even lower powered for my needs. If the thinner 16L cross would allow for more spin, then that could help with depth control and increased heaviness in general… but 16g might have the edge in low-powered control. And lastly, does the 4G ever notch in this setup? Or will I be good to use it until the Kevlar mains saw through (assuming the manually-prestretched 4G doesn’t snap first)?

Thanks as always for your thoughts, guys!

Just want to bump this one more time before restringing with the Kev/4G.

Does 4G as a cross develop any notching when paired with Kevlar mains?

Do prestretched poly crosses tend to snap before Kevlar mains are sawed through? Debating whether I need 1.30 durability for the 4G cross, or if 1.25 4G will outlast the Kevlar.

The 1.25 4G should allow for better snapback of the Kevlar mains, but I want to consider 1.30 4G based on the answers to the above questions.

cc: @travlerajm, @Shroud, @tlm, @graycrait, @esgee48 - Thanks for any thoughts :)
 
@Astonish , I recently tried YPTP 16g in the crosses with 16g Ash Kev in the mains in an APD. I'm cutting that out because it is too low powered for Me. I tried 4G crosses with 16g Ash Kev mains one time in a 58 RA Head Rad OS Microgel. Way too low powered to me. However I have no clue how long poly crosses last with Ash Kev mains because I cut it out. I have a friend who uses 16G Ash Kev mains x NXT. He just restrings crosses and generally gets 3 restrings of NXT for each set of Ash Kev mains.
 
If the stringbed is softening over time, that just means you didn’t prestretch enough.
I'm not sure I agree.
Probably depends on what you like, but no change over any period of time might be over stretched.
I think over doing it on the ZX is detrimental to the feel.
 
I think over doing it on the ZX is detrimental to the feel.
I'm going to have to get my winch set up out again and prestretch the bejeezus out of a half set each of ZX and Ash Kev and string it up in an APD. Why? A couple of years ago when I was using my NEOS with LO head I just started to pull tension on the Ash Kev mains 3x and just pulled tenon on ZX really slow till LO. Now with my Wise I just set it on the slowest setting and just pull tension on both Ash Kev mains and and ZX at 62/58 if stringing a racket 100" or lower. I've been stringing a young guy's PDs that way for about a year now who plays and lives 60miles away where one league he plays in has former SEC (D1) and other skilled players, many that were "developed" as juniors. He tells me first he likes the durability as a cost factor but even though he is a spin meister it only took him a week or two to transition from polys. When he dropped off three PDs the other day he told me he really liked the way the string settled then maintained tension till the Ash Kev mains break. As you can see in post #2671 he broke the Ash Kev in the same spot on 2 PDs.

Back when I was winch prestretching Ash Kev and ZX I felt if I maxed stretched Ash Kev for 10-15 minutes and rushed right in and strung it in the mains the stringbed was way too boardy, and did not "settle" after a couple of hours down to a comfy level. But I didn't just try string the Ash Kev at a "normal" reference tension like 52lbs and was still stringing it 60+. At that time I felt that about 18" prestretch on ZX was about right but it was breaking too often for me while stringing it so I quit prestretching it. I think I need to try at least once to prestrech both on the winch and then with some objective measurements try stringing at a moderate tension and see what happens.

One other thing that after tying off stringing the Ash Kev mains, one should push down a time or two on each individual main or at least place your palms on the string bed and press down on all strings to even out the tension before stringing the crosses. I also think that most folks lose a lot of tension on the Ash Kev mains when tying off. That is why I use a Babolat cam action pliers and awl to fix the last main when I pull tension. I think this is a key factor that lets me get away with not manually prestretching Ash Kev. Other strings' "stretchiness" sort of allows you to rock back and forth the main tie off knot keeping tension on that last main. The slightest slack induced in an Ash Kev last main leaves you with a "loose rope" as a last main. Then you must, I mean must, press down on each Ash Kev main before installing the ZX cross.

My arcane world of Ash Kev x ZX.

PS. Winch prestretching Ash Kev is a whole other world than fixing one end and "bouncing" it with body weight. I've done the latter many times, but with a winch you can adjust how far you want to stretch it and then let it sit for a bit and then crank the winch a notch or two more a few minutes later. I have not seen the tinsel strength of Ash Kev 16g. But I purchased off the bay some similar colored kevlar 1.3mm kevlar string that was touted to be, I believe, 330lbs tinsel strength. A couple of times I broke Ash Kev on the winch so sort of have a feel for when it is close to breaking. Not a big deal if you have a foot or so extra because it always broke at the fixed end whether at a knot and later when I started using a large C clamp with sandpaper in the smooth jaws to hold it. Never broke in the middle. I thought that was odd.
 
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I think it‘s a good point about the knots. I guess I should take better care to get them really tight.

About prestretching the kevlar. Is it enough, if I prestretch it while stringing, with my chosen tension, or does it need more tension to prestretch properly?
 
When I string kevlar mains, I not only prestretch, but I also like to pound on the stringbed with a heavy blunt object before tie-off, then re-tension with the drop-weight.

I repeat the pound and re-tension a few times until the drop weight doesn’t fall any further. Then I consider it fully prestretched.

The kevlar is tough enough to handle this sort of abuse.
 
Just want to bump this one more time before restringing with the Kev/4G.

Does 4G as a cross develop any notching when paired with Kevlar mains?

Do prestretched poly crosses tend to snap before Kevlar mains are sawed through? Debating whether I need 1.30 durability for the 4G cross, or if 1.25 4G will outlast the Kevlar.

The 1.25 4G should allow for better snapback of the Kevlar mains, but I want to consider 1.30 4G based on the answers to the above questions.

cc: @travlerajm, @Shroud, @tlm, @graycrait, @esgee48 - Thanks for any thoughts :)
4g will notch the kevlar and the kevlar will snap before the 4g. Fwiw I have both sizes and prefer the bigger myself because its stiffer.
 
4g will notch the kevlar and the kevlar will snap before the 4g. Fwiw I have both sizes and prefer the bigger myself because its stiffer.
Of course, that’s true of any poly, or any zx. The kevlar mains get sawed first, but still last longer than a poly main would.
 
4g will notch the kevlar and the kevlar will snap before the 4g. Fwiw I have both sizes and prefer the bigger myself because its stiffer.

Of course, that’s true of any poly, or any zx. The kevlar mains get sawed first, but still last longer than a poly main would.

This is what I was hoping to hear - thanks, guys! Definitely don’t want the 4G cross to notch and prohibit Kevlar main snapback.

I went with 4G at 16g to start, just because I’m still looking for an even lower powered setup. In the future I’ll probably compare with 4G 16L though, and see how much the thinner crosses increase snapback of the Kevlar mains.
 
This is what I was hoping to hear - thanks, guys! Definitely don’t want the 4G cross to notch and prohibit Kevlar main snapback.

I went with 4G at 16g to start, just because I’m still looking for an even lower powered setup. In the future I’ll probably compare with 4G 16L though, and see how much the thinner crosses increase snapback of the Kevlar mains.
With kevlar/poly, I prefer to prestretch both the kevlar and the poly. Otherwise, the stringbed will soften over time, and get more powerful and spinnier with higher launch angle as the poly drops tension until I lose control.

With thorough prestretching, the stringbed plays consistently until the kevlar is mostly sawn through. I’ve had big hitters wear thru 16g kevlar in 2-3 weeks. But it takes me many months.
 
When I string kevlar mains, I not only prestretch, but I also like to pound on the stringbed with a heavy blunt object before tie-off, then re-tension with the drop-weight.

I repeat the pound and re-tension a few times until the drop weight doesn’t fall any further. Then I consider it fully prestretched.

The kevlar is tough enough to handle this sort of abuse.
I should add, the re-tension step requires me to walk the slack off across the stringbed by pulling with with my fingers from the tied end to the drop weight supported end, transferring the slack from one string to the next.
 
I got my winch out today after letting it sit dormant for a long while. Out of 16g Ash Kev I got it to stretch 6" before it broke. I took it to 6" in degrees: 1st 2.5" then set for 5 minutes, then 3", then 4 and so on. I went into the garage to get something when it was sitting at 6" and when I came out I saw it had broke about 1.5 from the knot I had tied to a fixed position. I also manually prestretched the bejeezus out of some ZXP. Strung both half sets in an APD the same I have been stringing non prestretched Ash Kev and ZX in a couple of other APDs. I'm having a hit with another "duffer" former D1 player from the wood to whatever transition era tomorrow. I'll see how the winch/manual prestretched works vs the "normal" way to string it up.
 
I got my winch out today after letting it sit dormant for a long while. Out of 16g Ash Kev I got it to stretch 6" before it broke. I took it to 6" in degrees: 1st 2.5" then set for 5 minutes, then 3", then 4 and so on. I went into the garage to get something when it was sitting at 6" and when I came out I saw it had broke about 1.5 from the knot I had tied to a fixed position. I also manually prestretched the bejeezus out of some ZXP. Strung both half sets in an APD the same I have been stringing non prestretched Ash Kev and ZX in a couple of other APDs. I'm having a hit with another "duffer" former D1 player from the wood to whatever transition era tomorrow. I'll see how the winch/manual prestretched works vs the "normal" way to string it up.
We need more winch and bejeezus testing.
 
We need more winch and bejeezus testing.
Terms of reference: Bejeezus ZXP stretching means stretching it to the point where I am afraid to stretch it further in case it breaks at the far end and whips through the air and takes a bite out of my hand, arm or face. That has happened to me before. Today I was "living on the edge" taking no hand, arm or face precautions. Even using the winch stretching ZX can be interesting if it breaks at the far end and you are too close. I should just throw a towel over the stretching ZX to mitigate the Lash LaRue effect.
 
Terms of reference: Bejeezus ZXP stretching means stretching it to the point where I am afraid to stretch it further in case it breaks at the far end and whips through the air and takes a bite out of my hand, arm or face. That has happened to me before. Today I was "living on the edge" taking no hand, arm or face precautions. Even using the winch stretching ZX can be interesting if it breaks at the far end and you are too close. I should just throw a towel over the stretching ZX to mitigate the Lash LaRue effect.
When the whiplash effect occurs, I notice that the zx is no longer straightened, and I have re-stretch it. Goggles a good investment.
 
I notice that the zx is no longer straightened,
You are right, when that stuff breaks or slips through the fixed point and whips through the air the ZX has a "strange" look. But a bit more stretching "straightens" it out.

I think I will get one of those face shields that you saw/see some people wear for CV. I have safety goggles but I have belt sanders and buffers that using with a face shield would be safer.
 
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