Introducing Grapplesnake USA!!!

Had a very interesting experience with your m8 1.25 in my pure aero 98. I will say outright it’s my favorite string in it so far and at 46/44, it provided comfort, control and power. It worked better for me than RPM rough at 50 (couldn’t control), and gut/poly (nice but a little trouble with balls going long) and lynx tour/hawk power at 48/46 (very stiff and too much break in for my wrist).

Having said that I found the string was so slick and slippery that there wasn’t much ball grab: if I swung fast and through I had good depth and pretty good spin, however struggled a lot more to swipe up on the ball and count on string to ball friction to grab the ball. I could adapt to that on ground strokes but it made kick and slice serves a little trickier.

Has anyone had this experience and is there anything I can do set up wise to mitigate it?

Very glad I tried this string again: I had not liked it in soft racquets but it seems to be the ticket for the aero!
 
Had a very interesting experience with your m8 1.25 in my pure aero 98. I will say outright it’s my favorite string in it so far and at 46/44, it provided comfort, control and power. It worked better for me than RPM rough at 50 (couldn’t control), and gut/poly (nice but a little trouble with balls going long) and lynx tour/hawk power at 48/46 (very stiff and too much break in for my wrist).

Having said that I found the string was so slick and slippery that there wasn’t much ball grab: if I swung fast and through I had good depth and pretty good spin, however struggled a lot more to swipe up on the ball and count on string to ball friction to grab the ball. I could adapt to that on ground strokes but it made kick and slice serves a little trickier.

Has anyone had this experience and is there anything I can do set up wise to mitigate it?

Very glad I tried this string again: I had not liked it in soft racquets but it seems to be the ticket for the aero!
Spin on M8 is very good and predictable, but you need pretty good racquet head speed to access it. I also struggled on spin serves most. That's the main reason I don't main it. But it's a technique issue, not a string issue.

That's part of the reason I like Alpha, all of its benefits are just easier to access for a normie like me without making me feel like I'm giving something up when I do go for my shots.

I got a little tired of trying strings out so I'm just trying to go through what I have, but I'll probably try that M8/Mako combo Mr. Grapplesnake suggested to see if I can gain a little free pop and spin.
 
Spin on M8 is very good and predictable, but you need pretty good racquet head speed to access it. I also struggled on spin serves most. That's the main reason I don't main it. But it's a technique issue, not a string issue.

That's part of the reason I like Alpha, all of its benefits are just easier to access for a normie like me without making me feel like I'm giving something up when I do go for my shots.

I got a little tired of trying strings out so I'm just trying to go through what I have, but I'll probably try that M8/Mako combo Mr. Grapplesnake suggested to see if I can gain a little free pop and spin.
Thanks for the reply! Never tried alpha, might have to be next!
 
And also, allow the string to break in for some time and it will develop its signature pocketing that bumps up your spin.
I found the break in extremely short and plays the same at 3 hours in as it did after 20 minutes for me!

Do you agree with trying alpha for the above, or would you recommend something else? I have to say I love the control I’m having on drop shots, touch shots, but it would be nice to get a slightly higher launch angle without putting so much into it!
 
I found the break in extremely short and plays the same at 3 hours in as it did after 20 minutes for me!

Do you agree with trying alpha for the above, or would you recommend something else? I have to say I love the control I’m having on drop shots, touch shots, but it would be nice to get a slightly higher launch angle without putting so much into it!
Yes, Alpha or Tour Mako. Mako will probably be the best out of the two to increase spin, given how much pocketing it develops. String it a bit tighter than M8 as discussed at length here in the forum. Enjoy!
 
May I have you elaborate once more? Loving m8 at 46/44 and could probably have gone 48/46. Would you then do m8/mako at 48/48 or 48/49? Would still achieve additional launch, comfort and spin?
 
May I have you elaborate once more? Loving m8 at 46/44 and could probably have gone 48/46. Would you then do m8/mako at 48/48 or 48/49? Would still achieve additional launch, comfort and spin?
I would personally choose 47/48 or 48/49 in your case, and yes to your second question. Also, we can talk about it all day, but nothing beats just playing with it to see if you like it at this point. A 1 lb difference here and there isn't the most important variable. Go ahead and string your racquet and hit the courts. Enjoy, and please report back!
 
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Watching a recent @dr. godmode video and he recommended Tour Mako for the T-Fight 305s.

Should I go full bed or will that be too soft? Maybe hybrid with m8 or something else?

I am an aggressive all-court player with a fast swing from the baseline...any recommendations?
 
Watching a recent @dr. godmode video and he recommended Tour Mako for the T-Fight 305s.

Should I go full bed or will that be too soft? Maybe hybrid with m8 or something else?

I am an aggressive all-court player with a fast swing from the baseline...any recommendations?
Full bed of mako silver is very comfy, i like its softness but the drawback are the notches, so i ended up put mako silver in main and m8 crosses (mako silver is notched but still gliding on m8, m8 is stucked in mako silver notches but it doesn t distutb me) so the main snapback and comfort is longer ...but fresh full bed of mako sliver is very nice if i could afford restring every 3h , i ll go always full bed mako silver and increase tension if need more stiffness/control
 
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Yes, Alpha or Tour Mako. Mako will probably be the best out of the two to increase spin, given how much pocketing it develops. String it a bit tighter than M8 as discussed at length here in the forum. Enjoy!
What is best to put M8 on the main or cross?
As mentioned in other posts, I coudln´t dial in with full m8 on tfight 305s. (22/22) - the string is good only when I am very well positioned and I can play aggressive, but still the ball is not penetrating and a good defender is able to send everything back
Also I get tired after 4-5 shots with this string.

I am currently playing with Solinco BD hybrid (Mako and HGR) same tension , and it has filled that gap on being able to play effectively in counter attack.

Still I would like to give M8 a second chance with hybrid... because I really find great consistency.

I have 12 mt Mako, so I can try both hybrids / but curious to hear first your perspective
 
^ You may hybrid M8 with soft poly (Alpha, Mako, etc.) - it should add forgiveness.
M8/Alpha hybrid was my "bad day" go to option earlier.

I'm using 18x19 pattern as well and I have troubles with M8 full bed being demanding despite the fact that it worked perfectly in open pattern 16x19 frames.
I'm still in the process of tension adjustments - maybe I will find combination that works well in my case.
I have not tried M8/Alpha in 18x19 yet, however, TS/Alpha works well.
 
What is best to put M8 on the main or cross?
As mentioned in other posts, I coudln´t dial in with full m8 on tfight 305s. (22/22) - the string is good only when I am very well positioned and I can play aggressive, but still the ball is not penetrating and a good defender is able to send everything back
Also I get tired after 4-5 shots with this string.

I am currently playing with Solinco BD hybrid (Mako and HGR) same tension , and it has filled that gap on being able to play effectively in counter attack.

Still I would like to give M8 a second chance with hybrid... because I really find great consistency.

I have 12 mt Mako, so I can try both hybrids / but curious to hear first your perspective
I would try M8 mains, Mako crosses first, based on your situation.
 
Nice and thanks for posting this!! Thanks so much also for taking my question at the 29 min mark. Much appreciated! @TW Staff @Grapplesnake USA Official

Answered all my questions and overall this presentation was one of the most clear explanations of how each string fits into the overall plan and more than that ... how important the ingredients are that make up a co-poly string ... it's all about the "co" in co-poly. That's the differentiator and it's where Grapplesnake shines!
 
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Nice and thanks for posting this!! Thanks so much also for taking my question at the 29 min mark. Much appreciated! @TW Staff @Grapplesnake USA Official

Answered all my questions and overall this presentation was one of the most clear explanations of how each string fits into the overall plan and more than that ... how important the ingredients are that make up a co-poly string ... it's all about the "co" in co-poly. That's the differentiator and it's where Grapplesnake shines!
Thank you!
 
The interview with Yazir from @Grapplesnake USA Official by Michelle, , Troy and Oak was AWESOME!! Where else can you find the info on how, what and for whom these Grapplesnake strings ( Alpha, M8 and Tour Sniper) were made for.
Hearing Grapplesanke's approach and story behind the strings is something we rarely get to hear, except when Michelle hosts the industry leaders on TW's podcast!.

If any of you are interested in learning more about these strings I highly recommend giving it a watch / listen ! I didn't think I needed to try some new strings, but now I'm excited to try out their lineup in the near future!
 
I’m going to take a crack at oversimplifying here: Alpha is a comfortable, accessible take on crisp polys, and Mako is a stable, reliable, spinnier take on natural gut substitutes
I got to play with M8 and Alpha in my blade pros today. I can see why people like M8, but I ended up liking Alpha quite a bit. Not sure if I'd switch to it, but it'll definitely be on my mind as I hit with it a few more times. Very satisfyingly lively string with a nice "thwack" to it for me. I was actually quite impressed with how comfortable-but-not-mushy/muted it was. So I think your description of "comfortable, accessible take on crisp polys" is pretty spot on.

Actually, my biggest complaint, half joking, with it is that the color doesn't match with my sticks very well.
 
I think I'm going to try M8 mains and Mako crosses in my 305s.

Does anyone know if you can get two restrings out of a set considering the racquet is 18x19 and the strings come in 12m packs?
 
I think I'm going to try M8 mains and Mako crosses in my 305s.

Does anyone know if you can get two restrings out of a set considering the racquet is 18x19 and the strings come in 12m packs?
If you will string crosses - yes, it should be doable.
 
I think I'm going to try M8 mains and Mako crosses in my 305s.

Does anyone know if you can get two restrings out of a set considering the racquet is 18x19 and the strings come in 12m packs?
You should be ok considering that we cut them slightly longer in the US. For your mains, you will be close. Find your mid-point and cut there to ensure both halves are equal. Depending on your stringing machine and the fact that you have 18 mains, you might not have a lot of excess to go around a diablo, but there will be sufficient to bridge using a starting clamp and scrap string.
 
You should be ok considering that we cut them slightly longer in the US. For your mains, you will be close. Find your mid-point and cut there to ensure both halves are equal. Depending on your stringing machine and the fact that you have 18 mains, you might not have a lot of excess to go around a diablo, but there will be sufficient to bridge using a starting clamp and scrap string.
Why do string companies do this? Does extra foot cost that much? I have been hesitant of trying out 18x19 or 18x20 racquets simply because I know how much of a pain (in addition to needing to string extra mains/crosses) it will be, needing to use clamps/scrap strings.
 
Why do string companies do this? Does extra foot cost that much? I have been hesitant of trying out 18x19 or 18x20 racquets simply because I know how much of a pain (in addition to needing to string extra mains/crosses) it will be, needing to use clamps/scrap strings.
I'm unsure if you misread, but I said that we indeed cut, package and sell the strings longer than they should be.
 
I would personally choose 47/48 or 48/49 in your case, and yes to your second question. Also, we can talk about it all day, but nothing beats just playing with it to see if you like it at this point. A 1 lb difference here and there isn't the most important variable. Go ahead and string your racquet and hit the courts. Enjoy, and please report back!
Okay I tried it at 46/47 and I can’t deny it fixes the problem I was having. A bit more power for sure as well as some more launch even if I don’t strike the perfect ball!

Now perhaps I want my cake and eat it too, but I find the only thing less satisfying is the feel. It’s a bit more muted (granted just one hour of play so maybe breaking in) and so I’m torn between the playability of this set up vs how great full bed m8 felt!

Any suggestions on trials for next time? I also have alpha to throw in the mix if you think it would address anything!
 
Okay I tried it at 46/47 and I can’t deny it fixes the problem I was having. A bit more power for sure as well as some more launch even if I don’t strike the perfect ball!

Now perhaps I want my cake and eat it too, but I find the only thing less satisfying is the feel. It’s a bit more muted (granted just one hour of play so maybe breaking in) and so I’m torn between the playability of this set up vs how great full bed m8 felt!

Any suggestions on trials for next time? I also have alpha to throw in the mix if you think it would address anything!
You're on the right track, since the biggest difference between Mako and Alpha, is that the latter has more of a crisp feel, whereas Mako is soft all the way yet stable and, as I like to say, "not a noodle".

The introduction of Alpha might make the setup even more optimal for you - use same tensions as with M8/Mako.

That said, continue playing with your current setup and really evaluate it properly. One hour isn't enough. I personally evaluate setups for at least two hitting sessions, and optimally 10 hours or more.
 
You're on the right track, since the biggest difference between Mako and Alpha, is that the latter has more of a crisp feel, whereas Mako is soft all the way yet stable and, as I like to say, "not a noodle".

The introduction of Alpha might make the setup even more optimal for you - use same tensions as with M8/Mako.

That said, continue playing with your current setup and really evaluate it properly. One hour isn't enough. I personally evaluate setups for at least two hitting sessions, and optimally 10 hours or more.
Thank you! Might set up the other aero with it and just play them side by side for 10 hours!
 
Just watched the Tennis Warehouse podcast (Michelle's podcast) about Grapplesnake, and I now really want to playtest the "Neon Hybrid" which Yazir from Grapplesnake had a big opinion of in that podcast. I am not sure how that stayed out of my radar all these years. @Grapplesnake USA Official
It’s an outstanding setup for hard hitters. The sound it makes and the way it feels when hitting hard or returning serves is awesome.
 
Ok @Grapplesnake USA Official, you've peaked my interest in Tour Mako…

I’m currently using the Tecnifibre 305s and after some pretty extensive string testing, it seems the racket - at least for me - performs best with a soft/powerful poly (which is completely against my norm with a preference for stiff control polys). Currently I’ve settled on Luxilon Element as it gives me that soft feeling whilst retaining that connected/crisp feel that I get from stiffer strings. How does Tour Mako stack up compared to Element, or given that it’s a niche string so direct comparisons might be difficult to come by, does it meet that soft yet connected feel that I’m enjoying with Element?
 
Ok @Grapplesnake USA Official, you've peaked my interest in Tour Mako…

I’m currently using the Tecnifibre 305s and after some pretty extensive string testing, it seems the racket - at least for me - performs best with a soft/powerful poly (which is completely against my norm with a preference for stiff control polys). Currently I’ve settled on Luxilon Element as it gives me that soft feeling whilst retaining that connected/crisp feel that I get from stiffer strings. How does Tour Mako stack up compared to Element, or given that it’s a niche string so direct comparisons might be difficult to come by, does it meet that soft yet connected feel that I’m enjoying with Element?
Hey! It will be softer, for sure. Try the silver version to retain a lot of that connection while enjoying a better feel. String it a couple of lb higher than current. Enjoy!
 
Ok @Grapplesnake USA Official, you've peaked my interest in Tour Mako…

I’m currently using the Tecnifibre 305s and after some pretty extensive string testing, it seems the racket - at least for me - performs best with a soft/powerful poly (which is completely against my norm with a preference for stiff control polys). Currently I’ve settled on Luxilon Element as it gives me that soft feeling whilst retaining that connected/crisp feel that I get from stiffer strings. How does Tour Mako stack up compared to Element, or given that it’s a niche string so direct comparisons might be difficult to come by, does it meet that soft yet connected feel that I’m enjoying with Element?
If you think tour mako silver is too soft, you can try Alpha. It's still very soft and comfortable but you have more control, spin, durability.
 
Hey! It will be softer, for sure. Try the silver version to retain a lot of that connection while enjoying a better feel. String it a couple of lb higher than current. Enjoy!
If you think tour mako silver is too soft, you can try Alpha. It's still very soft and comfortable but you have more control, spin, durability.
Is there much difference between the blue and silver colourways?

I’ve considered Alpha but my preference is for round strings, but one to consider in the future maybe!
 
Is there much difference between the blue and silver colourways?

I’ve considered Alpha but my preference is for round strings, but one to consider in the future maybe!
A small percentage of aluminum in the silver version. Just enough to provide more connection for people using soft frames. Not even close to Sniper-levels of aluminum.
 
I hit about 2 hours today with Irukandji in the crosses for Tourna Quasi Gut Armor* mains (54/52) in my Shift 99 300. Stringbed felt very solid (with a fairly deep tone when striking the ball) and comfortable. The main issue was that the mains were moving after pretty much every ball (just hitting against a ball machine), so I was presumably not getting much in the way of snapback. I might just cut it out and restring higher and without a tension differential, but open to any suggestions if there's an obvious issue that I'm missing.

(One caveat here is that I strung this myself as a novice stringer and this was probably my fifth racket. I think that I gave the strings enough time to settle while being pulled (Alpha Pioneer DC Plus drop weight), and nothing looks obviously off like for my first two attempts, but I can't be totally sure that I didn't just flub something.)

* Rationale for testing this combo comes from previous observations about QGA's softness, where even Isospeed Cream was inducing notching after a fairly short duration: Post in thread 'Tourna Quasi-Gut Armor 16g'
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/tourna-quasi-gut-armor-16g.739216/post-17162449. Basically, I wanted to see whether Irukandji, being very soft (even if not quite to Cream levels) combined with its flat surface, would delay notching and extend snapback/QGA lifespan. But, I suspect that any observations re: notching at this point, considering the movement issue, is not really informative.
 
I hit about 2 hours today with Irukandji in the crosses for Tourna Quasi Gut Armor* mains (54/52) in my Shift 99 300. Stringbed felt very solid (with a fairly deep tone when striking the ball) and comfortable. The main issue was that the mains were moving after pretty much every ball (just hitting against a ball machine), so I was presumably not getting much in the way of snapback. I might just cut it out and restring higher and without a tension differential, but open to any suggestions if there's an obvious issue that I'm missing.

(One caveat here is that I strung this myself as a novice stringer and this was probably my fifth racket. I think that I gave the strings enough time to settle while being pulled (Alpha Pioneer DC Plus drop weight), and nothing looks obviously off like for my first two attempts, but I can't be totally sure that I didn't just flub something.)

* Rationale for testing this combo comes from previous observations about QGA's softness, where even Isospeed Cream was inducing notching after a fairly short duration: Post in thread 'Tourna Quasi-Gut Armor 16g'
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/tourna-quasi-gut-armor-16g.739216/post-17162449. Basically, I wanted to see whether Irukandji, being very soft (even if not quite to Cream levels) combined with its flat surface, would delay notching and extend snapback/QGA lifespan. But, I suspect that any observations re: notching at this point, considering the movement issue, is not really informative.
What was the rest time after the stringing?
I have noticed that in case of GC/PP (it is just an example) rest time is very important. If it is less than 48 hours, mains are moving significantly more.

Edit:
And I do not think this is pulling issue. As strings will not settle during the pulling as you will adjust them afterwards to avoid smiley string bed. However, give it a few seconds when you align your drop weight to be sure that string is fully stretched.

Personally I use the following (Stringway dropweight):
-- Letting string to be fully stretched;
-- Adjusting/straightening string by hand while it is still being pulled;
-- Clamping the string;
-- Straightening strings after string job is done;
-- Giving at least 24 hours to rest (in some cases more, depends on specific setup).

Another advice, frequently check/clean your clamps to avoid sliding/slipping.

Disclaimer - I'm self learner, however, I'm stringing for more than 10 years for myself and my son (young pro) and it works well.
 
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