Personally I don't think you can do better than natural gut / poly hybrid. I've gone around the block several times, and I always come back to this.
Not always; otherwise you'd see it universally. Depending on the player, frame and spec in question, clearly there are other string beds that can be desirable. In @nintendoplayer's case, he may not need or want as high of a floor on explosiveness as one tends to get from a gut hybrid, even at higher tensions. The PD has a high-enough minimum level of power as it is, that a naturally lower-power full poly setup, strung low enough, might give him better overall playability range for his needs. And clearly that's the case for many others. A single setup most definitely doesn't fit every case.
 
Thanks guys.

I’m not really a fan of hybrids anymore. In the past, they always felt somewhat inconsistent to me – and I’m pretty sensitive when it comes to feel.

I know exactly how HyperG and Max Power behave individually – very different string beds, very different playing characteristics (at least when you’re tuned in to the details). Still, I might give a hybrid another try at some point, just out of curiosity.



But my intuition tells me the same thing I experienced in the past: hybrids were often harder to controlthan full beds, especially when mixing strings with such different response and feel.



As for natural gut – it’s simply way too expensive for me. I restring frequently, and my Pure Drive with its open pattern and stiff frame eats strings way faster than something like a classic Wilson frame (like the ones Roger used).

So gut in this setup just feels like burning money for no real gain.
 
Not always; otherwise you'd see it universally. Depending on the player, frame and spec in question, clearly there are other string beds that can be desirable. In @nintendoplayer's case, he may not need or want as high of a floor on explosiveness as one tends to get from a gut hybrid, even at higher tensions. The PD has a high-enough minimum level of power as it is, that a naturally lower-power full poly setup, strung low enough, might give him better overall playability range for his needs. And clearly that's the case for many others. A single setup most definitely doesn't fit every case.
Of course it's not universal, stringing list on the tour confirm this. I suppose I play with lower powered control oriented frames, so I personally like the power and touch (and comfort from my sensitive arm) I get from the gut. With gut hybrids, net play, swing volleys etc are just amazing. The other benefits I get are tension maintenance, consistency and durability so I don't need to restring often, so it balances out if you were to string cheaper poly more often. I'm testing out the PS97v14 at the moment and i'm really enjoying the balance i'm getting of power, classis response and precision. I cant swing out and most of my balls land on the baseline now which is great for suffocating opponents. (Forehands on my Head Graphene XT Speed MP was sailing long at the best of times even though it was a great help on the serves). It's interesting to delve into the process of mixing different equipment characteristics, i.e. Power frame with poly strings vs control frame with gut hybrids. It all comes down to how you want to play I guess and what your biomechanics are like.
 
Thanks guys.

I’m not really a fan of hybrids anymore. In the past, they always felt somewhat inconsistent to me – and I’m pretty sensitive when it comes to feel.

I know exactly how HyperG and Max Power behave individually – very different string beds, very different playing characteristics (at least when you’re tuned in to the details). Still, I might give a hybrid another try at some point, just out of curiosity.



But my intuition tells me the same thing I experienced in the past: hybrids were often harder to controlthan full beds, especially when mixing strings with such different response and feel.



As for natural gut – it’s simply way too expensive for me. I restring frequently, and my Pure Drive with its open pattern and stiff frame eats strings way faster than something like a classic Wilson frame (like the ones Roger used).

So gut in this setup just feels like burning money for no real gain.
Regarding control, I will say this. Nothing has ever compared to kevlar in providing a consistent stringbed response. The level of control I felt with Kevlar/ZX hybrid, was unparalled.
 
The level of control I felt with Kevlar/ZX hybrid, was unparalled.
I'd agree with that. In certain frames at the right tension, Kev/ZX is near-miraculous. But it has its own set of challenges, namely the temperament of Zyex, which needs a heavy manual pre-stretch to not loose too much tension over time; yet, that same pre-stretch, if overdone, can zap the string of too much of its unique suppleness, so it can be a balancing act of how much pre-stretch to give it (I've reverted to just two long, 30-ish second pulls with my manual crank on each cross, which seems to be a nice middle-ground between enough slack pulled out of the string that it will usually give 20-30 good playable hours, and leaving enough suppleness as to make it feel gut-like enough to be worth using).
 
I'd agree with that. In certain frames at the right tension, Kev/ZX is near-miraculous. But it has its own set of challenges, namely the temperament of Zyex, which needs a heavy manual pre-stretch to not loose too much tension over time; yet, that same pre-stretch, if overdone, can zap the string of too much of its unique suppleness, so it can be a balancing act of how much pre-stretch to give it (I've reverted to just two long, 30-ish second pulls with my manual crank on each cross, which seems to be a nice middle-ground between enough slack pulled out of the string that it will usually give 20-30 good playable hours, and leaving enough suppleness as to make it feel gut-like enough to be worth using).
You've actually confirmed and convinced me to give that hybrid another go. My inital idea for using Kevlar was to knock 6-8 grams off the weight in the hoop of my RF97 (which brought it down to a managable 352g strung (which is the extreme upper limits of what i can handle), however I didn't realise how much i'd like the consistency and control. Although, I suspect it wasn't doing my elbow any favours. I came across the Ashaway Kevlar + which is supposed to be a softer version of the standard kevlar. My stringer / coach busted my ZX twice in a row on the tie offs and we wasted a whole packet of it in one stringing session, and he was convinced it's a ****ty string so I took it to another stringer who had more patience with it. I really really liked it. What made you stop using it?
 
What made you stop using it?
I haven't necessarily stopped using it, per say, I just haven't strung it in a while. Mainly due to the fact that Kev/ZX is fussy with pre-stretching and makes for a SLOW string job. But once it's in the racquet, it can play really well. I may give it another try here at some point in the near future.
 
I haven't necessarily stopped using it, per say, I just haven't strung it in a while. Mainly due to the fact that Kev/ZX is fussy with pre-stretching and makes for a SLOW string job. But once it's in the racquet, it can play really well. I may give it another try here at some point in the near future.
I'm just so amazed that the string bed does exactly what you ask of it, and it does it the same way every single time as long as you're consistent. I think the slow process is worth it. My RF now has gut / ghostwire 19g in it, and while it's nice, it's not as consistent and it made the racket heavier again - it's back up to 360grams which is too much to serve with. Not that its my daily driver, but I'm wishing it was back closer to 350g.
 
@nintendoplayer - Another nice update. Begs the question: might a p/p hybrid of MP mains / HGR crosses be the goldilocks setup? MP mains keeping the overall behavior composed and consistent, HGR crosses allowing just a bit more snapback-based spin, pocketing, pop and general "chaos" factor, without going all the way. I'm sure inquiring minds would love to know!
I had a feeling HGR in the mains would be a better fit, cause lately I‘ve primarily used my HGR frames because the explosive power combined with spin regularly overpowers my opponent, while MaxP is for consistency and handling heavy hitters and the pace they generate. But most opponents I meet play typical clay court tennis and I have to put pressure on them - HGR fits this use case a lot better.

IMG-4869.jpg
 
The hybrid test with HGR and MaxP unfortunately didn’t work out.

When hitting, I could clearly feel two completely different string characteristics clashing — different vibration profiles, different overall feel — and I just couldn’t get full control. With every shot, it felt like the two strings were fighting each other instead of working together. I had way more control with a full bed of HGR, even though that string can definitely feel like a rocket launcher at times. But at least it was predictable — I knew what to expect, and that gave me a better sense of control.
Same thing goes for MaxP — a bit less of a rocket launcher, but also more consistent as a full bed.

So for now, I’m going to stay away from hybrids again. I’ll experiment more with string tension, and I’m also thinking about going back to firmer, more controlled strings. Maybe something extreme like Tour Bite… at 20kg?

Why not?

I actually like the idea now of stringing two identical setups (same tension), but with different strings — one for more control, one for more power — and switching based on the opponent or the match situation. More control or more rocket launcher — depending on what the day calls for.
 
I‘ve asked ChatGPT to analyze my videos and recommend me the perfect string setup. My assumption was that HyperG Round offers me explosiveness I‘m missing in strings like MaxP or HyperG or TourBite.

His answer is mind blowing:


Analysis of Your Game with Hyper-G Round @20 kg

✅
1. Power & Explosiveness
  • Your shots come off the strings noticeably faster, especially on compact swings or when you’re under pressure.
  • You’re able to generate pace effortlessly, even without perfect timing.
  • Most striking: your drive forehands from midcourt or on the run land deep and heavy with real impact
→ This is exactly what Hyper-G Round excels at:
Elastic + dynamic = bonus power without overexertion.


✅
2. Comfort & Rhythm
  • Your overall movement looks smooth, relaxed, and fluid.
  • No signs of overcompensation – you trust the string to carry the ball.
  • Compared to Tour Bite (even the Soft version), your game feels more effortless, almost like you’re playing with a small built-in boost.
→ You’re absolutely right:

Round, more elastic strings like Hyper-G Round are a perfect match for your all-court style, because they:
  • reduce body strain,
  • give you natural feedback,
  • and feel more connected on slices, volleys, and touch shots.
⚠️
3. Control Trade-Off
  • In fast rallies or late contact points, there’s a small risk of overhitting, especially on aggressive cross-court forehands.
  • The launch angle is visibly higher than with MaxPower or Tour Bite.
  • Not wild – but less predictable under match pressure.
→ The fix: Slightly increase tension to rein in the power just enough.


✅
Recommendation: Stick with Hyper-G Round – but bump it to 21 or 22 kg


Conclusion: For serious match play – Hyper-G Round @21–22 kg is your sweet spot

You’re not a pure spin grinder, nor a linear striker –
your game relies on variation, timing, rhythm, and natural flow – and Hyper-G Round supports that perfectly, as long as it’s not too wild.
Shaped strings like Tour Bite (even Soft) or classic Hyper-G provide more spin, but feel too mechanical for your smooth style.

MaxPower, on the other hand, feels too dead – it lacks the dynamic response your game thrives on.
If you want, I can build a concrete match-day string setup, like:
  • Main racquet: Hyper-G Round @21 kg
  • Backup: Hyper-G Round @22 kg
  • Control option: MaxPower @20.5 kg – for extreme precision matches
 
After some more intense testing and long discussions with ChatGPT about the characteristics of different string setups, I found myself right back at the conclusion that Hyper G Round and Max Power are probably already the best options for my game and that any further experiments might just add confusion rather than value.

Why?

Hyper G Round already feels quite stiff to me but just on the edge of being “ok” stiff. In a way, it plays like what Tecnifibre Triax or Babolat RPM Soft are marketed to be: the control of a co poly combined with a level of comfort that you would not usually expect from a poly string. In my experience, HGR walks that fine line between control and comfort better than any other string I have tested and it seems almost “unmatched” in today’s string market.
But at the same time, both ChatGPT and my own arm tell me that Hyper G Round is noticeably less arm friendly than Max Power. Mainly because of the higher level of vibration that Hyper G Round transmits. Max Power, in contrast, feels almost too muted at times often I do not really feel the ball at impact but I still know exactly where it is going because the stringbed is so consistent and predictable. Hyper G Round on the other hand offers that explosive power and liveliness though with the risk of occasional overhitting. Yet it often feels more connected to the ball simply because you feel more. And this more feeling according to ChatGPT is actually what tends to put more strain on my arm over time. The vibrations cause your tendons and joints to tense up ever so slightly with every shot just to stabilize the system and compensate for the micro shocks. Over time this means your arm gets tired more quickly with HGR even though technically it is rated softer than Max Power. Max Power simply absorbs and kills so much of the impact and vibration that this stress does not build up the same way.

I found this really fascinating to be honest.

It also helped explain why I never fully got along with Tour Bite Soft. I always felt like TBS had this odd combination of a strong trampoline effect sometimes even more than Hyper G Round while at the same time feeling significantly stiffer. In general I found that shaped strings tend to feel harsher. ChatGPT pointed out that a string like TBS also has less snapback than Hyper G Round partly because the sharp edges and surface structure do not allow the strings to slide and snap back as easily.
So my own theory is that the harshness I feel from Tour Bite Soft is not because of active snapback which is actually lower than HGR but rather due to the stiff material properties lack of snapback and surface friction. With HGR the strong snapback and internal string movement give me a different kind of feedback which my arm seems to tolerate better. This ties in well with my playing style which is all court oriented with a lot of touch slice and feel shots I need a certain degree of pocketing.

So for now it feels like Hyper G Round and Max Power are already the best possible options for my game.
  • Hyper G Round when I want explosiveness but I have to be very careful with the tension. Anything above 22 to 23 kg starts to feel uncomfortable. If I were willing to risk some arm health for a critical match I might go up to 24 kg for ultimate control but at that point according to ChatGPT and my own testing HGR becomes almost brutally stiff and harsh on the body.
  • Max Power on the other hand behaves differently. Even at 24 kg it does not feel as harsh as HGR at the same tension because it absorbs so much of the incoming power and vibration. It plays almost the same at 20 kg as at 24 kg always very dead very dampened.
So Max Power seems to remain my safe bet when I need maximum control without destroying my arm.
 
I have a 93P which I take out for a hit every now and again and it’s a superb addictive feeling frame that is a S & V dream for about 1 hour and then as you fatigue or your level drops off you start to pay because it makes you work harder.
I the the PK Q Tour 315 is a better option - irs easier to use and better weighted in stock form than say a Dunlop CX 200 tour 95 16/19 which had a too low SW: The PS 97, Yonex Percept 97 ( customised to your tastes) are also better choices. I haven’t hit with the 2024 Phantoms but probably would go with the box beam 100p if you like the box beam feel which you seem to do.
Another option I wouid try is the Solinco white out 305 with its 327 sw, it’s 21.7mm beam and customisable but cap inserts. And finally I like the feel of the Angell K 7 Lime and Red, the Diadem Ekevste 98 and the Heysill Tour 97.
 
I have a 93P which I take out for a hit every now and again and it’s a superb addictive feeling frame that is a S & V dream for about 1 hour and then as you fatigue or your level drops off you start to pay because it makes you work harder.
I the the PK Q Tour 315 is a better option - irs easier to use and better weighted in stock form than say a Dunlop CX 200 tour 95 16/19 which had a too low SW: The PS 97, Yonex Percept 97 ( customised to your tastes) are also better choices. I haven’t hit with the 2024 Phantoms but probably would go with the box beam 100p if you like the box beam feel which you seem to do.
Another option I wouid try is the Solinco white out 305 with its 327 sw, it’s 21.7mm beam and customisable but cap inserts. And finally I like the feel of the Angell K 7 Lime and Red, the Diadem Ekevste 98 and the Heysill Tour 97.
Would you like to sell your 93p? :)
 
What I recently learned about racquet setups and shoulder health
I recently made another fascinating discovery about how subtle racquet adjustments can affect the shoulder. In short, I started experimenting again with a thicker grip. Since my racquets are grip size 1, I had to use overgrips to simulate a thicker grip and see how it felt, especially because I often struggled with a wobbly feeling on my backhand. On slices, for example, I would need to grip harder, which I felt more in my forearm.
At the same time, I increased my string tension back to 24 kg from my usual 20 kg setup with Hyper G Round. The result: one week of shoulder pain, mainly in the rotator cuff.
After doing some deeper research, the reason became clear. The thicker grip, combined with the added static weight from the overgrips, overloaded my shoulder. I realized that the thicker the grip, the more the stress travels up the arm toward the shoulder. So if I want to protect my shoulder, there are three main variables I need to manage:

• Static racquet weight
• String tension
• Grip size

I remeasured my hand using the official method and found that the distance from the bottom lateral crease of my palm to the tip of my ring finger is about 10.5 to 10.7 cm, which corresponds pretty closely to a grip size 1 to 1.5. That means my experiment using two or three overgrips to create more stability was in fact counterproductive. I did feel more stability on the backhand, yes. But with a thicker grip, I tend to use more of my arm, whereas a thinner grip encourages more wrist and forearm action.
What made things worse was the combination of all three: more weight, higher tension, and a thicker grip. That setup forces me to use more strength, particularly from the upper arm and shoulder.
These variables are incredibly interesting to me. What became crystal clear is that I have to give up a bit of control or the feeling of control to protect my shoulder. So I am sticking with my magic number of 20 kg string tension. I am also sticking with the thinner grip, even if it feels a little loose in my hand at times. And I will continue doing what I can to keep the static weight low.

Right now I play best with Pure Drive frames that have a swingweight slightly under or exactly at spec. Two of my four frames are too heavy and have an oversized swingweight. They are already too much, especially when warming up. The other two are somewhere between the Pure Drive Team and the standard Pure Drive in terms of both weight and swingweight. I have to live on that fine edge, riding the wave of lightness. I need to use my wrist more and force myself to stay loose. The days of gradually increasing string tension are over. I need to find a way to let go and live with a certain degree of lost control. I have to accept the trampoline effect that comes with 20 kg tension, which will quickly drop to 19 or even 18 kg after the first sessions. Some shots will be difficult or even impossible unless I slow down and use a lot of feel. For example, those super short angled crosscourt balls after a drop shot. At 20 kg with Hyper G Round and a Pure Drive, those shots are really tough because the ball wants to launch upward. So I am adapting my game slowly, learning to hit touch shots even with a racquet that wants to catapult everything, or choosing different shots altogether.
It still amazes me how tightly connected health, playing style, and equipment are. For now, Hyper G Round and Max Power have become my go to strings. It is funny because Hyper G Round definitely has a lot of built in power and feels bouncy at times, but it also gives good feedback and spin. Max Power, on the other hand, damps more vibration and is arguably more arm friendly, but it lacks that bouncy response, so I need to generate more power myself. That is why I usually go back to Hyper G Round. Even if it sounds crazy, Pure Drive plus a powerful string, it works for me because I am approaching it from the opposite end of the power spectrum.

While everyone around me is stringing at 24, 25, or even 27 kg with RPM Blast and smashing the ball with full force while struggling for consistency, I have to master the art of effortlessness. I need to come from the other side and learn how to control what is essentially a rocket launcher with my wrist, a loose mind, and a calm subconscious.
Man this stuff is so fascinating.
 
While everyone around me is stringing at 24, 25, or even 27 kg with RPM Blast and smashing the ball with full force while struggling for consistency, I have to master the art of effortlessness. I need to come from the other side and learn how to control what is essentially a rocket launcher with my wrist, a loose mind, and a calm subconscious.
Man this stuff is so fascinating.
Great stuff NP. This is exactly what I've been guiding several middle-aged clients towards – ie. learning how to harness and direct a setup with more power and depth than they'll ever need, as opposed to having to constantly over-exert with a setup that is arguably too under-powered to begin with, or too reigned-in after the fact (usually from too firm a string at too high a tension). To get there, sometimes all it takes is lower tension and/or slightly higher-power string, other times more swing/hitting weight (plus string tweaks), and sometimes a full frame switch to something higher-powered to begin with, but regardless, that's been the general trend, and it usually pays off by raising the "floor" of people's games, almost automatically (less so the ceiling, but that's usually less of a concern at most rec levels – ie. let's just hit our targets with depth, before we start worrying about more cat-and-mouse stuff, which becomes less relevant the more intense the competition gets anyways).
 
Last edited:
I recently gave another hybrid a try: Max Power in the mains and Hyper G Round in the crosses. Unfortunately, it resulted in a similar issue to the reverse hybrid (Hyper G Round mains / Max Power crosses), namely, a lack of control and a catapult effect that was hard to manage.

I had actually hoped that Max Power in the mains would glide better over Hyper G in the crosses than in a full bed of Max Power, maybe even enhancing feel or spin, but the opposite was true. I’m starting to interpret it this way: with a racket like the Pure Drive, you need a string setup that is 100 percent predictable, no surprises, no trampoline like reactions. That’s where Hyper G Round tends to fall short. It has its own inherent power, which becomes hard to control unless you hit the sweet spot consistently. That’s why Max Power remains the only string that really works for me right now. It gives me full confidence in what will happen with every shot. That makes touch shots and volleys way more controllable and precise.

In our last team match I tried Hyper G Round full bed to ease shoulder stress. But the more I played, the more hesitant I became to swing freely. Too often the ball would fly long or jump unpredictably off the stringbed. That uncertainty really got in my head. So at this point, my conclusion is that a high powered frame like the Pure Drive really only works with strings that offer maximum control, otherwise, power becomes a liability. I might still give Tour Bite another comparison test, but honestly, Max Power has been my string for a while now. Despite being a stiff, control oriented poly, it dampens vibrations very effectively. That’s helped my shoulder noticeably, making it feel like a softer string in terms of arm friendliness, even though it’s anything but soft on paper.
The Hyper G Round experiment was my attempt to increase comfort and take advantage of the string’s built in power to save energy. But I’ve found that every Solinco string I’ve tried so far feels stiffer and more vibration heavy than Kirschbaum strings. Hyper G Round offers an interesting contrast, power and spin with some comfort, but in serious match play, that contrast became a problem. The gap between feel and control was just too wide. With Max Power, I might not feel the ball as much, but I get fewer bad vibrations and I always know what’s going to happen next, even if I don’t feel it perfectly, I trust it. That kind of reliability is huge for me.
Based on what I know, Tour Bite might offer the best of both worlds: more vibration feedback, probably even more than Hyper G, the control of Max Power, and significantly more spin potential. I’m considering setting up a Tour Bite backup racket, especially for matches like my last league encounter. I was up against a master level pusher who returned every nonaggressive ball with depth and consistency. That match demanded a surgical weapon, and Hyper G Round let me down. I started doubting my shots and hesitating when I needed to stay offensive.
 
If you like full-bed Max Power, but want something a hair more supple, more nuanced, but still very tempered and controlled, I would highly recommend trying Head Hawk (not Hawk Touch, not Hawk Power, just plain old original Hawk) – Gray or White for a more crisp feel akin to Max Power, Black for something a bit more smooth-feeling. In my Prestige MP-L's, I ended up preferring more firm poly's overall, so I did extensive testing of many of them, Max Power and Hawk included, and for me, Hawk edged it overall, for the qualities I listed, plus slightly more comfortable, while also offering slightly better snapback and being more dent resistant. Head and IsoSpeed did incredible work with Hawk, and I think it may fit what you're looking for extremely well, potentially better than Max Power.
 
If you like full-bed Max Power, but want something a hair more supple, more nuanced, but still very tempered and controlled, I would highly recommend trying Head Hawk (not Hawk Touch, not Hawk Power, just plain old original Hawk) – Gray or White for a more crisp feel akin to Max Power, Black for something a bit more smooth-feeling. In my Prestige MP-L's, I ended up preferring more firm poly's overall, so I did extensive testing of many of them, Max Power and Hawk included, and for me, Hawk edged it overall, for the qualities I listed, plus slightly more comfortable, while also offering slightly better snapback and being more dent resistant. Head and IsoSpeed did incredible work with Hawk, and I think it may fit what you're looking for extremely well, potentially better than Max Power.

The AI tells me:

Head Hawk is a solid, control-oriented poly, but noticeably stiffer and more direct on contact than Max Power. You’ll likely feel more feedback and vibration, especially on off-center hits or defensive slices. That crispness might appeal to players looking for a cleaner response - but in your case it risks putting too much load on your shoulder, especially with your Grip 1, wrist-based control, and frequent use of slice and touch shots. Max Power gives you the controlled, low-launch, shoulder-safe platform you need to play freely and attack with precision - especially in long rallies or against defensive players. Head Hawk could add a touch of sharpness, but at a cost in comfort and forgiveness.


And my personal conclusion would be that if I’m willing to accept harsher vibrations, then going for maximum control with something like Tour Bite makes the most sense. What do you think?
 
With all due respect, this is a potentially classic example of where AI's apparent knowingness is at the very least questionable, if not outright wrong, especially in light of real-world experience. Having actually tried both Max Power and Hawk in the same racquet, at the same spec, strung at the same DT, in the same hitting session, over multiple sessions on differing courts and in differing temperatures and conditions, in my experience at least, if anything it was Max Power that felt slightly more harsh than Hawk, especially as the string bed aged. Now granted, that was in several spec'd-up 2021 Prestige MP-L's, not the Pure Drive at near-stock spec, so the manifested vibration profile and/or translated amount of shock could be different, but at the very least, I still think you need to try the two, before you let any AI (regardless of the neural model or version) convince you otherwise.

As for Tour Bite, it can depend on the gauge you choose, but I find Tour Bite tends to be more harsh than both Max Power and Hawk, as you're coupling similar firmness with extreme biting edgy-ness and plenty of metallic feedback/feel. TB can indeed be very harsh, if one is not careful.

PS: I don't mean to come off as hating on AI for the sake of it here, nor poo-poo-ing your use of it. Quite to the contrary, I think AI can be great and I use it every day, but it has its place and you have to be careful abiding by it as a sole guidance mechanism for certain kinds of insight/knowledge seeking.
 
Last edited:
With all due respect, this is a potentially classic example of where AI's apparent knowingness is at the very least questionable, if not outright wrong, especially in light of real-world experience. Having actually tried both Max Power and Hawk in the same racquet, at the same spec, strung at the same DT, in the same hitting session, over multiple sessions on differing courts and in differing temperatures and conditions, in my experience at least, if anything it was Max Power that felt slightly more harsh than Hawk, especially as the string bed aged. Now granted, that was in several spec'd-up 2021 Prestige MP-L's, not the Pure Drive at near-stock spec, so the manifested vibration profile and/or translated amount of shock could be different, but at the very least, I still think you need to try the two, before you let any AI (regardless of the neural model or version) convince you otherwise.

As for Tour Bite, it can depend on the gauge you choose, but I find Tour Bite tends to be more harsh than both Max Power and Hawk, as you're coupling similar firmness with extreme biting edgy-ness and plenty of metallic feedback/feel. TB can indeed be very harsh, if one is not careful.

PS: I don't mean to come off as hating on AI for the sake of it here, nor poo-poo-ing your use of it. Quite to the contrary, I think AI can be great and I use it every day, but it has its place and you have to be careful abiding by it as a sole guidance mechanism for certain kinds of insight/knowledge seeking.
Thanks for your insights, much appreciated. Interestingly, after reflecting on it, even the AI acknowledged your perspective as valid and valuable. It concluded that hands-on experience is ultimately more meaningful than any theoretical model it can produce. :D
Since I’m planning to order a set of Head Hawk 1.25 and Tour Bite 1.25 anyway, is there anything else you’d suggest that might be worth testing for optimal control in the PD ?
 
AI is good because it has a lot of knowledge and can be trained, good or bad. That said Hawk Touch is a softer version that is even more playable (and expensive).
 
In addition to Hawk and TB, I'd also look at:

- Head Hawk Touch (agree with @meltedsteam)
- Luxilon 4G Soft
- MSV Bussard
- Signum Pro Poly Plasma
- Tecnifibre Razor Code

All are low-powered, controlled, predictable, relatively firm (or more so). All have good or better playability maintenance.
Thanks a lot. I would personally exclude 4g soft because Luxilon in general is too expensive for me, replacing strings regularly after 2-3 sessions.
And didn‘t we already test MSV Bussard last year? :) But yeah, why not.

What do you think about other potential candidates like Solinco Confidential, Max Power Rough (more spin potential than vanilla?), Dunlop Explosive Tour?
 
Woops, you did test Bussard previously, and didn't think it gave you any more control than what you had already found, while being more firm and harsh than what you had already tried in some other strings that actually gave more control. So you can probably skip.

Understood on 4G Soft, though you might still try it just as a reference point / process of elimination?

And yes to the last three: Conf, MPR and Explosive Tour, for sure. I was going to possibly mention Explosive Speed, but it's even more firm and dead than regular 4G, so unless you're willing to string it very low, Explosive Tour might be the better call.
 
Woops, you did test Bussard previously, and didn't think it gave you any more control than what you had already found, while being more firm and harsh than what you had already tried in some other strings that actually gave more control. So you can probably skip.

Understood on 4G Soft, though you might still try it just as a reference point / process of elimination?

And yes to the last three: Conf, MPR and Explosive Tour, for sure. I was going to possibly mention Explosive Speed, but it's even more firm and dead than regular 4G, so unless you're willing to string it very low, Explosive Tour might be the better call.
One issue I keep running into when testing individual string sets is finding the right tension for each string. Stringing everything at the same tension doesn’t always make sense because each string behaves a bit differently. But once a set is used, it’s done.
So how do you deal with this without wasting too much money?

Right now, my go-to tension for Max Power is 22 kg for practice, which gives me more comfort and better depth on the run, and 24 kg for serious match play, where I need maximum control when attacking.
I’ve been thinking about testing every new string at 22 kg and comparing directly against Max Power at that same tension. That would at least give me a consistent baseline to judge comfort and control. But of course, some strings just work better at different tensions, so that’s not perfect either.
Making it even trickier, my Pure Drive frames have different swingweights — 286, 289, and 296 unstrung. Naturally, each string feels a little different depending on which frame I use.

Then I start thinking maybe the only way to really know if a string is worth it is to buy a full reel so I can test it across multiple tensions. But that gets expensive and complicated very quickly. That’s why I find Mark Sansait’s approach interesting. He tests every string at the same reference tension. Yes, it might not be the ideal setup for every string, but at least it makes comparisons more objective. Random side note, half the players on my team are using Signum Pro Tornado 1.29. It’s a very controlled, twisted string with decent spin, but my gut tells me that 1.29 mm would be too stiff and dead for me personally.
Now about the racquet choice. I keep thinking about switching, but I always come back to the Pure Drive. It helps me in so many ways, especially on serve. I don’t need to swing as hard to get power, which reduces stress on my shoulder. The bigger sweetspot also helps a lot, especially because I play in barefoot shoes and often hit from less than ideal positions.
That’s probably why control-oriented racquets haven’t worked for me. With a sensitive shoulder, a weak knee, and less grip and braking ability because of my shoes, I feel like I need a racquet that takes work off my plate. More like a car with automatic transmission. But that also means I sometimes lack control, especially when going for aggressive forehands.
Right now I think the most practical solution is to carry two Pure Drives with different tensions. One strung looser for depth and defense, and one tighter for matches where I need to attack more and take time away from pushers.

Still, part of me wonders if I should carry a Blade just in case, or demo the Whiteout V2, or maybe try some other 98 to get a more natural swing on the one-handed backhand.
But I keep landing on the same truth. I need help from the racquet. I need that automatic mode. And I just have to learn how to control my attack game within that setup.

By the way: the AI tells me MSV Bussard is ultra controlled but could be „dangerously dead“ for my PD and allcourt style, Tourbite could be too stiff/crisp and hurtful for my shoulder and Razor Code could be less controlled and noticeably „bouncier“ than MaxPower.
 
Last edited:
[...] finding the right tension for each string [...] same tension doesn’t always make sense because each string behaves a bit differently.[...] So how do you deal with this without wasting too much money? [...] been thinking about testing every new string at 22 kg and comparing directly against Max Power at that same tension. That would at least give me a consistent baseline [...] not perfect either. [...] Making it even trickier, my Pure Drive frames [are] 286, 289, and 296 [sw] unstrung. Naturally, each string feels a little different depending on which frame I use. [...] maybe [...] buy a full reel so I can test it across multiple tensions. But that gets expensive and complicated very quickly. That’s why I find Mark Sansait’s approach interesting. He tests every string at the same reference tension. Yes, it might not be the ideal setup for every string, but at least it makes comparisons more objective.
First off, the racquets. If we are to truly isolate on most optimal string setup, you need to remove racquet spec variance to the greatest degree possible (ie. unstrung spec to within 1g, 0.1cm and 1sw point). In my mind, that means you either bring up the 288 and 289 unstrung SW PD samples to match the 296sw sample to within that tolerance, or, if doing so takes you too far outside/above your optimal spec, then you dump the 296sw sample and source a third PD with an unstrung spec more in-line with the first two. That to me is a no brainer. I realize you might not like hearing that, but it just is what it is.

Next, strings. What you really want to key in on is finding you're most optimal string bed stiffness, which is a function of dynamic tension (DT), ie. the tension of the string installed in the racquet. That is what you're really playing, and arriving at that mark that you favor, is done by juxtaposing inherent string stiffness against reference tension. You can do it somewhat by feel, smart guessing, trial-and-error, and "good enough" process of elimination, but to really minimize the amount of wasted time and materials, you want to have a physical device that actually measures string bed stiffness. While something like phone apps that try their best to approximate strung tension, or an ERT 300, that takes the sonic sample method and derives a DT value based only on its somewhat potentially off-base algorithm, IMHO the best is the Stringway String Lab 2, which actually measures physical depression of the string bed. Something like that would actually allow you to track actual DT against playing experience/results, to then see 1) what your highest-performing DT actually is (which will be WAY more similar between varying strings than simple reference tension alone) and then 2) which strings hold closest to that DT/playability mark as the string bed ages. And I would argue that the cost of an ERT 300 and/or String Lab 2 would potentially save you more in unneeded extra string tests, than perhaps the cost of the tool(s) in the first place, so in that sense, they kind of pay for themselves. Plus, you come away with even more concrete insight and understanding of the actual physics in play.

So that's how I would approach what you're trying to get at, that is, if you really want to stop with the guess work and drill down on a definitively best setup for you. At least for the state you and your game are at right now.

Now about the racquet choice. [...] Right now I think the most practical solution is to carry two Pure Drives with different tensions. One strung looser for depth and defense, and one tighter for matches where I need to attack more and take time away from pushers. [...] Still, part of me wonders if I should carry a Blade just in case, or demo the Whiteout V2, or maybe try some other 98 to get a more natural swing on the one-handed backhand.
But I keep landing on the same truth. I need help from the racquet. I need that automatic mode. And I just have to learn how to control my attack game within that setup.
I think you're answering you're own question. The PD type frame really seems to be the best choice for you, all things considers. Sure, you could delve back into multiple frames again and go back down that rabbit hole, but ultimately I think you'd come right back around full circle again, with very similar, if not identical, experiences and realizations — at least if pure competitiveness remains your number one goal. But I get what you're yearning for: you don't want to leave any possible level of compromise on the table. If there's a more suitable frame in any way, you want to be using it. I get that. But at some point, as I said earlier, I think that bell curve on diminished amount of return versus the energy/time to go looking, let alone find that frame, comes back in favor of just sticking with what you've got. That aside, I also think it's of course important to continue to keep the curiosity and fun alive by periodically trying new frames, so absolutely, continue to do that if that's what makes you happy. Ultimately, though, it seems like what you have in your hand now is probably the best for you.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the detailed reply, @Trip

Funny enough, I actually already have a Stringlab 2 (plus the RS test device), which I originally used to measure the RDC stiffness of my frames a while back. Totally forgot I could use it to check actual string bed stiffness, since I was so focused on frame stiffness at the time.
At this point, testing new frames really isn’t that important for me anymore and I personally also wanted to stay away from customizations, cause as you might remember my issues when trying to customize the PD Team, it felt kind of „uncustomizable“. But yeah you’re right about the swingweight and primarily hitting with the 286SW racquet in my latest matches it also explains the instability when hitting attacking shots.
I’ve been playing with the Pure Drive for quite a while now, mainly switching between Hyper-G Round and Max Power. That said, I’ve recently shelved Hyper-G Round and have been sticking almost exclusively to Max Power.
Based on our discussion here, I’m planning to order a few more strings to test, mostly the ones available through my usual source (sportshop-direct.de). They tend to have the best prices and fastest shipping for me. Right now, it looks like the shortlist is: Head Hawk, Max Power Rough, Solinco Confidential, Solinco Tour Bite, Tecnifibre Razor Code, Head Lynx Tour and MSV Bussard.

With Max Power Rough, I keep thinking, “How different can it really be from the regular Max Power?“
And with Razor Code: “Can it really be as controlled as the others?”

But we’ll see :)
 
Last edited:
@Trip One more question: do you think 1.30mm strings would make sense in my setup? Currently I only use 1.25mm strings.

Raising swingweight and control, lowering the launch angle, making attacking shots easier to achieve with 1.30mm?
I‘m just afraid about comfort and potential shoulder issues due to past experiences with 1.3mm strings. But theoretically it should make sense? To tame the bouncy springbed? Also keeping the stringbed stable for a longer period of time? But how much difference would it make for my sensitive shoulder?

(The AI doesn‘t think it‘s a good idea, being right on the edge of comfort / performance with 1.25mm strings currently)
 
Last edited:
I think it's definitely worth a try. You'd be weighing exactly what you though: slightly more weight and plow-through from the racquet face, slightly lower launch angle, slightly more consistent launch behavior, less pliability (so harder to displace for snapback), higher durability. And the only real way to know whether the trade-offs are a net-positive or net-negative is to play test full-bed 1.30 vs full-bed 1.25, all else held equal (namely: strung spec and DT).

Another possible option: mixing 1.30 and 1.25. I do this with Tour M8 in my Prestige MP-L's (1.30 mains / 1.25 crosses). Gives a little bit higher launch angle and more rounded shot shaping (the slightly thicker mains having the bit of extra relief height applies a bit more grip when swiping around/over the ball), while also lending some of that 1.30 "beefyness", without going all the way there. Conversely, if you found you wanted to lower your launch angles, but didn't want to go all the way to full-bed 1.30 to do it, you could do 1.25 mains / 1.30 crosses.

In short, yes, definitely worth it, either strictly full-bed, or mixed, depending on the balance you want to strike. Please keep us updated if/when you try any of that!
 

Is the 93p the right choice for me? the answer is NO. Only Federer can produce some miracles on the court with a 93​


Wrong. In fact, in the hands of the right player this racket can truly bring out your best tennis. I've tested many rackets over the past 3–4 years, but the 93P stands head and shoulders above the rest. It’s the one I consistently play my best tennis with. For context: I regularly play high-intensity sessions of 3 to 4 hours without any issues with fatigue. I’m an advanced player, but I definitely recommend the 93P to any reasonably advanced player. That said, I play a classical style—mostly flat strokes—so players who rely heavily on spin are better off looking elsewhere.
 
Now it’s getting interesting. Yesterday I played with my two 296 unstrung SW Pure Drives, both strung with Max Power – one at 24 kg and the other at 25 kg. 24 kg already felt great, but when I switched to the 25 kg setup, my groundstrokes felt much better balanced. I could swing out consistently without fearing the ball would fly long. My hitting partner even mentioned several times how consistently my balls landed near the baseline. A bit of extra power is fine if it gives you depth, but those occasional wild shots into the fence? Gone.

There was also one standout shot I never really had before: opponent hit a short ball, and I chipped a topspin backhand over the net into his service box to draw him forward. Then I easily finished the volley at the net. That type of feel and control was impossible for me before, especially with lower tensions like 20 or 22 kg which had way more trampoline effect.
I realized the higher tension actually improved my biomechanics overall. Yes, it required more physical engagement, but the load felt right most of the time because the higher tension demanded more body involvement to stabilize the stroke. I could hit confident winners instead of hesitating. I dominated rallies from both forehand and backhand wings, and my topspin backhand felt more stable than usual.
One issue remains: L1 grip size often feels too small, even though I already use thick Signum Pro Magic Grips (0.75 mm), which I really like because of the soft feel. But during backhand volleys or slices, the racquet still tends to twist a bit in my hand, which forces me to use more forearm muscle.
Paradoxically, this is still a conscious choice. I’ve clearly noticed how a thicker grip shifts the load up the arm and puts more stress on the shoulder. So right now I’m intentionally accepting a bit of instability and more forearm load in exchange for less shoulder strain.
With this setup, I was able to hit hard for 90 minutes without shoulder pain the next day – supported by mindful nutrition, high protein intake, and solid recovery.
Right now, I’d rather not buy new frames with L2 handles, even though that would probably be a stabilizing move. I’m also not a fan of building up handles manually, and adding extra overgrips would increase overall weight in a way which would again hurt the shoulder.

Next, I’ll be testing some of the other strings at 24 kg: Tour Bite, Head Hawk, Lynx Tour, Razor Code.

Also interesting: my DT measurements. The 25 kg frame (the one I used more) now reads DT 42. The 24 kg frame (used less) surprisingly shows a higher DT of 43.5.

25kg frame:

24kg frame:
 
@nintendoplayer - Nice update again.

On the grip size, as with most other things, you seem to be ultra-sensitive here. Before going and buying Grip 2's, I would experiment with an ever-so-slightly thicker/firmer base grip if you haven't already, perhaps swapping out the Babolat Syntec Pro base grip on one of your PD's with something like a Gamma Hi-Tech, which I've noticed is ever-so-slightly thicker and more firm when installed. It also tends to add 2-4g more weight, .5-1pt of head-lightness, and solidifies the handle through contact better than most stock base grips, without having to employ the full weight and possible slow-down effect of an equivalently-thick leather grip.

For strings, as always, it's going to be a give and take, and if this thread's history is any indication, the optimal tension for you is always going to be a moving target, depending on how much hitting weight is present in the current strung spec you're wielding, the playing conditions, opponent, etc. Not sure if 0.5kg steps is worth it, but perhaps 24.5kg could be a goldilocks value, at least for the current playing environment.

And as for the DT phenomenon, I've observed this myself, and I hypothesize it's due to a couple of things:
  1. Physical Resilience vs. Pulled Tension – Presuming the string hasn't been 100% pre-stretched, there's usually a bell curve on how physically resilient a string will be to impact trauma over time, versus the tension it's been pulled at in the racquet. Especially with poly/co-poly, which is subject to progressive plasticization, there will usually be a certain upward bounds on tension, beyond which you may actually compromise DT-holding ability. This varies from string to string, and again, is reduced by the amount that the string is pre-stretched, but even with Max Power, which is partially pre-stretched at the factory, it may help explain the larger drop and lower subsequent DT values of the 25kg tension frame vs 24kg tension frame (presuming play time is roughly equal).

  2. String Denting/Notching – This kind of physical wear can often cause a localized tightening and/or loss of pliability. Since the String Lab 2 is taking it's depression measurements somewhat-close to where denting/notching may be most prevalent, it may be reading the string bed as less pliable than it actually is as a whole, and as a result, be outputting higher DT values than would otherwise reflect to the slacking-out of the string bed that is actually happening, but is being masked, at least somewhat, by the locking effect of the denting/notching in/around the measured location.

As you go along, along with your DT measurements, which I would recommend taking right after each play session, to keep tension readings as close to that last accumulated amount of play time as possible, perhaps you could also include a "% notched" reading as well, approximated by a simple visual check on how worn the strings are in/around the strike zone, to see if there's any kind of correlation there. It will probably take some weeks/months to get enough data points to build any kind of consensus, whether one way or the other, but will be interesting to see if you observe any kind of trend(s).

Hope some of that helps once again!
 
Last edited:
Today I tested Tourbite, Hawk, and Max Power side by side. Even during stringing, Tourbite already felt the most stable and stiff, which made me think it would offer the most control. I was short on time, so I didn’t customize the swingweights and strung the rackets as follows:

286 SW - Tourbite 1.25 at 25 kg
289 SW - Hawk 1.25 at 25 kg
296 SW - Max Power 1.25 at 24 kg (used once before)
296 SW - Max Power 1.25 at 25 kg (used once before)

Skipping customization actually turned out to be interesting because I played best with the 286 SW racket and Tourbite. I hardly made any mistakes. Yes, often I lacked depth and pace, but as soon as I hit the sweetspot with proper footwork, I could hit winners like never before. Especially on backhand topspin returns, I had great success. With other strings I had major issues here and mostly used slice returns instead. Despite the lower swingweight, the racket felt more stable on backhand returns. I even hit some backhand winners, which almost never happened before. I think the relatively light swingweight allowed me to swing faster, especially because the setup is very headlight. On short balls I could whip the backhand from the wrist, and Tourbite gave me the control to go for it with confidence.

My opponent was not a heavy hitter. Against such players, higher swingweight setups would probably be more suitable. But in this context, the lower swingweight worked surprisingly well. I also noticed something during contact that reminded me of softer frames like the Clash. The ball felt like it bounced twice on the strings and lingered for a fraction of a second. I could see it in the corner of my eye and feel it, even on volleys. But in this case, it wasn’t the ball that stayed longer....it was more that the frame flexed slightly and snapped back. Especially on volleys, I could see the impact and rebound visually. It was a strange but confidence-inspiring sensation, as if the ball paused briefly on the racket- though more like a ping-pong bounce than a soft dwell.

I think I could’ve gone a bit lower in tension. With such low swingweight, even 24 kg would’ve worked. Still, I hit plenty of winners that landed deep in the corners - something I used to do often in junior matches.

All of this doesn’t really make sense at first glance: the stiffest racket and one of the stiffest strings, but it keeps feeling like it’s more about biomechanics, the feel of the stroke, and the freedom to swing naturally. Today I was again able to play short balls softly over the net, end rallies quicker with dropshots and volleys that didn’t bounce high. Topspin on short angles was also easy, and my opponents kept commenting on how annoying it is to deal with my spin.

The idea is to end points quicker this way. Whether this works in serious matches is another test but for maximum control when I need to end points against pushers, Tourbite seems like a great option.

Hawk was clearly less controlled. Compared directly, Max Power felt much more muted, with almost no feedback. I noticed how Max Power absorbs the ball- producing almost no power on its own. In contrast, Tourbite gave me serious pop when I hit the sweetspot. With Max Power, I felt I had to work more. Hawk was in between but leaned more toward Max Power- making it feel like neither here nor there. I also found it harder to generate topspin with Hawk than with Max Power.

Let’s put it this way: I definitely felt my arm more after the Tourbite session. But I seem to need that stronger feedback to trust my shots. The spin potential is helpful, too. In theory, I can play similarly with Max Power, but I don’t feel the ball properly. With MaxPower I often feel like I’m not sure what’s going on-and I sometimes completely mishit or brush over the ball without solid contact. That didn’t happen at all with Tourbite. The connection to the ball was much stronger, and I seem to need that to trust my strokes.

Still, 25 kg is quite high for TourBite, I measured a DT value of 45. I’ll try TourBite with lower tensions, as well. And probably customize the 286SW frame to match the others and test TourBite with proper SW.
 
I did some more measurements. The 286 SW frame comes in at 320 SW when strung, and the 289 SW frame ends up at 323 SW strung.

The 286 is strung with Tourbite 1.25 at 25 kg, and the 289 with Tourbite 1.25 at 24 kg. Both setups work well depending on the situation.

When I play against a pusher and need to generate pressure, the 25 kg / 320 SW setup works really well. I can swing faster, and the ball almost always lands in.

The 24 kg / 323 SW setup, on the other hand, feels better in doubles or against hard hitters where I block more shots.

I tried adding 2 grams overall at 3 and 9 o’clock (1 at 3, 1 at 9) on the 286 frame, but that didn’t work for me. The swing felt unnatural and kind of anemic again, so I removed the weights.

Now I switch between the lighter 286/289 SW frames and my heavier ones (296 unstrung / 332 strung), depending on opponent and match context.
I measured both racquet's DT at around 49. That sounds quite high to me but so far it works quite well for me, good control without any noteable arm issues even when hitting two days in a row for at least 2 hours per day. As if the stiffness gives me more confidence in my strokes and lets me feel the sweetspot better which in the end prevents arm issues because my game becomes more consistent and I swing more freely and confident. I think I will try to stay in the 24kg range to reduce the DT a bit and get used to it.
 
Last edited:
@Trip I made a spontaneous switch from the Pure Drive to the Blade V9 and was immediately impressed. Picked up both the 98 and the 100 but played my first league match with the 98. Control was noticeably better, I could play more aggressively and finish points with confidence, which was often an issue with the Pure Drive.

Using Tour Bite 1.25 at 25 kg. The combo works really well. I tried adding weight to bring both frames up to 321 swingweight, and while that gave me great stability, especially on the backhand, it also added more power than I needed. I was actually considering going up to 26 kg tension if I stick with 321 or even higher swingweight. But in the end, I removed the tape and went back to around 318, which felt more natural.

The Blade swings more freely, feels solid and controlled, and gives my game more precision. Grip size 2 now fits perfectly too, which made the transition even smoother. Really happy so far and looking forward to the next matches.
 
Last edited:
@nintendoplayer - Couldn't help yourself eh? :) Whatever puts a smile your face at the end of the day, is the right racquet for you I suppose!
I didn’t originally plan to switch racquets right away. My idea was just to have a more controlled alternative to the Pure Drive, because in my last few league matches I kept facing classic pushers, and I just couldn’t finish points precisely enough when moving forward and trying to close at the net.
Against pushers at the level of Germany’s 3rd league, heavy spin and deep balls are often not enough. These players are built to absorb that. The only way through is to attack and finish the point, more like Federer than Zverev.
When I first tried the Blade 100, I was surprised by how much power it still had compared to the Pure Drive, but with way more control on aggressive shots, at the net, on winners, and especially on the backhand. The thinner beam also made the racquet easier to swing through the air with noticeably less drag.
Then I tested the 98, and it felt even more surgical and even better suited to attacking. And since I now regularly face high-level pushers, I really need that extra precision to shorten points. In my last league match on clay, I played something close to Wimbledon-style tennis, with lots of volleys and drop shots at the net. Touch was key, and the Blade delivers that in a way the Pure Drive just never could.
On volleys, I feel how the frame flexes slightly and holds the ball a touch longer. I even got compliments from spectators calling my net game “sugar hands” thanks to those soft volleys. That’s actually my natural game – touch, finesse – and the Blade brings that out.

So I ended up buying two Blade 98s and two Blade 100s, just to have the option. If needed, I can still use the 100 for a more spin-heavy game, but with much better control than a Pure Drive.
So far though, the 98 is clearly winning out. I’m playing very consistently with it, a lot more precise, and able to pressure my opponents more effectively and finish points quicker.

Compared to the Blade V8, this version feels much more complete. The added power and stability really help. I’m still testing which swingweight works best for me, but the 318 SW version I have now feels quite solid.
 
I didn’t originally plan to switch racquets right away. My idea was just to have a more controlled alternative to the Pure Drive, because in my last few league matches I kept facing classic pushers, and I just couldn’t finish points precisely enough when moving forward and trying to close at the net.
Against pushers at the level of Germany’s 3rd league, heavy spin and deep balls are often not enough. These players are built to absorb that. The only way through is to attack and finish the point, more like Federer than Zverev.
When I first tried the Blade 100, I was surprised by how much power it still had compared to the Pure Drive, but with way more control on aggressive shots, at the net, on winners, and especially on the backhand. The thinner beam also made the racquet easier to swing through the air with noticeably less drag.
Then I tested the 98, and it felt even more surgical and even better suited to attacking. And since I now regularly face high-level pushers, I really need that extra precision to shorten points. In my last league match on clay, I played something close to Wimbledon-style tennis, with lots of volleys and drop shots at the net. Touch was key, and the Blade delivers that in a way the Pure Drive just never could.
On volleys, I feel how the frame flexes slightly and holds the ball a touch longer. I even got compliments from spectators calling my net game “sugar hands” thanks to those soft volleys. That’s actually my natural game – touch, finesse – and the Blade brings that out.

So I ended up buying two Blade 98s and two Blade 100s, just to have the option. If needed, I can still use the 100 for a more spin-heavy game, but with much better control than a Pure Drive.
So far though, the 98 is clearly winning out. I’m playing very consistently with it, a lot more precise, and able to pressure my opponents more effectively and finish points quicker.

Compared to the Blade V8, this version feels much more complete. The added power and stability really help. I’m still testing which swingweight works best for me, but the 318 SW version I have now feels quite solid.
Ha! I ended up switching to the PS X. So so good for me. Never ended up trying the Blade 100. Glad you've found something that suits you more. I think from where you started with the 93 P, going to a Pure Drive seemed quite a big change, now you seem to be somewhere in the middle with the Blades. @Trip you want to chime in if you know to explain the difference between the PS X and Blade 100 v9? They're pretty similar no?
 
@pdparos78 - PS X vs Blade 100: PS X is basically a PS 97 with a 100" hoop, equally scaled-open 16x19 and a higher stock twist weight. Blade 100 is similarly upsized versus the 98, only with a bit thicker beam (22mm, versus 21mm) and not as elevated a twist weight. PS X has a taller handle with a smaller, narrower neck and 6 throat mains, so handle-to-hoop feels more like a single, firm rod type of feel; Blade has a shorter handle with a longer, wider, slightly flexier neck and 8 throat mains, so handle-to-hoop feel has a bit more of a "bend and bow" type of feeling. Drill spacing of the mains is almost identical in both, but the PS X has wider distribution of crosses, particularly towards 12 and 6, creating more uniform ball bite and less of a "bouncy island" type of feel to the string bed, a hair better for all-court craftsmanship and application of variety, whereas the Blade's will give you a bit more pop from the baseline and concentration on purely flat striking from distance, which is more or less exactly where it's meant to be at home. Beam-wise, the PS X is more classically box-beamed (with rounded corners), whereas the Blade's neck has a similar box beam, but then morphs into its signature "D" beam at just about where the neck pieces join the hoop at 5 and 7. This makes the Blade a bit more aerodynamic the further away you get from purely back-to-front swing motion, as does the slightly lower twist weight make it a tad easier to turn over the racquet face on topspin groundies from both wings.

Overall, somewhat similar frames, especially if applying 5-10g of handle weight to the Blade, but each have their distinct differences that make them suited more to their silo heritage. Overall, I could see either one working for you, with perhaps an edge to the PS X, considering your racquet DNA, biomechanics and overall play style.

Hope that helps!
 
@pdparos78 - PS X vs Blade 100: PS X is basically a PS 97 with a 100" hoop, equally scaled-open 16x19 and a higher stock twist weight. Blade 100 is similarly upsized versus the 98, only with a bit thicker beam (22mm, versus 21mm) and not as elevated a twist weight. PS X has a taller handle with a smaller, narrower neck and 6 throat mains, so handle-to-hoop feels more like a single, firm rod type of feel; Blade has a shorter handle with a longer, wider, slightly flexier neck and 8 throat mains, so handle-to-hoop feel has a bit more of a "bend and bow" type of feeling. Drill spacing of the mains is almost identical in both, but the PS X has wider distribution of crosses, particularly towards 12 and 6, creating more uniform ball bite and less of a "bouncy island" type of feel to the string bed, a hair better for all-court craftsmanship and application of variety, whereas the Blade's will give you a bit more pop from the baseline and concentration on purely flat striking from distance, which is more or less exactly where it's meant to be at home. Beam-wise, the PS X is more classically box-beamed (with rounded corners), whereas the Blade's neck has a similar box beam, but then morphs into its signature "D" beam at just about where the neck pieces join the hoop at 5 and 7. This makes the Blade a bit more aerodynamic the further away you get from purely back-to-front swing motion, as does the slightly lower twist weight make it a tad easier to turn over the racquet face on topspin groundies from both wings.

Overall, somewhat similar frames, especially if applying 5-10g of handle weight to the Blade, but each have their distinct differences that make them suited more to their silo heritage. Overall, I could see either one working for you, with perhaps an edge to the PS X, considering your racquet DNA, biomechanics and overall play style.

Hope that helps!
Thanks @Trip again, you've confirmed i've made the right choice.
 
Switching from Pure Drive to Blade 98 V9 – my takeaways

I moved from the Pure Drive (SW ~320, 25–26 kg) to the Blade 98 V9. At first I strung it tight (26–26.5 kg, SW 320–326) which gave me control but often left me short and forced me to work too hard. Then I lowered tension step by step and ended up at 22 kg Tour Bite with SW 321–323.

The difference is huge. My arm feels much looser, my technique is cleaner, and I can hit with more effortless depth. My one handed backhand longline has become a real weapon.

Another surprise: string life. With 22 kg Tour Bite I have already played several long multi hour sessions and still have very good control. It even feels better as the tension settles and my arm gets looser. I am curious to see how long it lasts before breaking.

Lower tension forces me to stay loose, higher swingweight gives me stability, and overall the Blade is pushing me toward cleaner and healthier tennis.

 
Last edited:
Switching from Pure Drive to Blade 98 V9 – my takeaways

I moved from the Pure Drive (SW ~320, 25–26 kg) to the Blade 98 V9. At first I strung it tight (26–26.5 kg, SW 320–326) which gave me control but often left me short and forced me to work too hard. Then I lowered tension step by step and ended up at 22 kg Tour Bite with SW 321–323.

The difference is huge. My arm feels much looser, my technique is cleaner, and I can hit with more effortless depth. My one handed backhand longline has become a real weapon.

Another surprise: string life. With 22 kg Tour Bite I have already played several long multi hour sessions and still have very good control. It even feels better as the tension settles and my arm gets looser. I am curious to see how long it lasts before breaking.

Lower tension forces me to stay loose, higher swingweight gives me stability, and overall the Blade is pushing me toward cleaner and healthier tennis.

It's interesting just how you grinded your opponent out and won that first point. He looked like he should have won it, but your defense tired him out and forced the error.
 
It's interesting just how you grinded your opponent out and won that first point. He looked like he should have won it, but your defense tired him out and forced the
Yeah I often hear that I am an annoying opponent because I get so many balls back, almost like a pusher. But I do not really see myself that way, I just wait for the right moment to attack
 
Yeah I often hear that I am an annoying opponent because I get so many balls back, almost like a pusher. But I do not really see myself that way, I just wait for the right moment to attack
Hahah look i'm not going to lie, that session was a little moon-bally but hey it works! Even Sabalenka and Alcaraz resorted to such tactics at the right times to change the rhythm.
You've obviously figured out ways to alter rhythm to unsettle your opponents. Something I need to get better at - my fast paced playing and movement is quite solid, but throw me a short ball and I might screw it up. Ha
 
Yeah I often hear that I am an annoying opponent because I get so many balls back, almost like a pusher. But I do not really see myself that way, I just wait for the right moment to attack

Your defense is consistency is great, but one thing to keep in mind is that "right moment to attack" depends on how you feel about what you can execute.

Your balls tend to loop and sit up because you are hasitant to transfer weight forward and through the shot, which would produce a lower, more agressive shot.

Better players will exploit that as soon as you give them a shorter sitter like that.


Medicine ball practice is a perfect way to develop that forward weight trasfer feel through the stroke and that in turn that will get you playing more agressively (more right moments to attack)



 
Last edited:
Your defense is consistency is great, but one thing to keep in mind is that "right moment to attack" depends on how you feel about what you can execute.

Your balls tend to loop and sit up because you are hasitant to transfer weight forward and through the shot, which would produce a lower, more agressive shot.

Better players will exploit that as soon as you give them a shorter sitter like that.


Medicine ball practice is a perfect way to develop that forward weight trasfer feel through the stroke and that in turn that will get you playing more agressively (more right moments to attack)



100% this - give this advice often - forward balance produces this.
 
Back
Top