Not always; otherwise you'd see it universally. Depending on the player, frame and spec in question, clearly there are other string beds that can be desirable. In @nintendoplayer's case, he may not need or want as high of a floor on explosiveness as one tends to get from a gut hybrid, even at higher tensions. The PD has a high-enough minimum level of power as it is, that a naturally lower-power full poly setup, strung low enough, might give him better overall playability range for his needs. And clearly that's the case for many others. A single setup most definitely doesn't fit every case.Personally I don't think you can do better than natural gut / poly hybrid. I've gone around the block several times, and I always come back to this.
Of course it's not universal, stringing list on the tour confirm this. I suppose I play with lower powered control oriented frames, so I personally like the power and touch (and comfort from my sensitive arm) I get from the gut. With gut hybrids, net play, swing volleys etc are just amazing. The other benefits I get are tension maintenance, consistency and durability so I don't need to restring often, so it balances out if you were to string cheaper poly more often. I'm testing out the PS97v14 at the moment and i'm really enjoying the balance i'm getting of power, classis response and precision. I cant swing out and most of my balls land on the baseline now which is great for suffocating opponents. (Forehands on my Head Graphene XT Speed MP was sailing long at the best of times even though it was a great help on the serves). It's interesting to delve into the process of mixing different equipment characteristics, i.e. Power frame with poly strings vs control frame with gut hybrids. It all comes down to how you want to play I guess and what your biomechanics are like.Not always; otherwise you'd see it universally. Depending on the player, frame and spec in question, clearly there are other string beds that can be desirable. In @nintendoplayer's case, he may not need or want as high of a floor on explosiveness as one tends to get from a gut hybrid, even at higher tensions. The PD has a high-enough minimum level of power as it is, that a naturally lower-power full poly setup, strung low enough, might give him better overall playability range for his needs. And clearly that's the case for many others. A single setup most definitely doesn't fit every case.
Regarding control, I will say this. Nothing has ever compared to kevlar in providing a consistent stringbed response. The level of control I felt with Kevlar/ZX hybrid, was unparalled.Thanks guys.
I’m not really a fan of hybrids anymore. In the past, they always felt somewhat inconsistent to me – and I’m pretty sensitive when it comes to feel.
I know exactly how HyperG and Max Power behave individually – very different string beds, very different playing characteristics (at least when you’re tuned in to the details). Still, I might give a hybrid another try at some point, just out of curiosity.
But my intuition tells me the same thing I experienced in the past: hybrids were often harder to controlthan full beds, especially when mixing strings with such different response and feel.
As for natural gut – it’s simply way too expensive for me. I restring frequently, and my Pure Drive with its open pattern and stiff frame eats strings way faster than something like a classic Wilson frame (like the ones Roger used).
So gut in this setup just feels like burning money for no real gain.
I'd agree with that. In certain frames at the right tension, Kev/ZX is near-miraculous. But it has its own set of challenges, namely the temperament of Zyex, which needs a heavy manual pre-stretch to not loose too much tension over time; yet, that same pre-stretch, if overdone, can zap the string of too much of its unique suppleness, so it can be a balancing act of how much pre-stretch to give it (I've reverted to just two long, 30-ish second pulls with my manual crank on each cross, which seems to be a nice middle-ground between enough slack pulled out of the string that it will usually give 20-30 good playable hours, and leaving enough suppleness as to make it feel gut-like enough to be worth using).The level of control I felt with Kevlar/ZX hybrid, was unparalled.
You've actually confirmed and convinced me to give that hybrid another go. My inital idea for using Kevlar was to knock 6-8 grams off the weight in the hoop of my RF97 (which brought it down to a managable 352g strung (which is the extreme upper limits of what i can handle), however I didn't realise how much i'd like the consistency and control. Although, I suspect it wasn't doing my elbow any favours. I came across the Ashaway Kevlar + which is supposed to be a softer version of the standard kevlar. My stringer / coach busted my ZX twice in a row on the tie offs and we wasted a whole packet of it in one stringing session, and he was convinced it's a ****ty string so I took it to another stringer who had more patience with it. I really really liked it. What made you stop using it?I'd agree with that. In certain frames at the right tension, Kev/ZX is near-miraculous. But it has its own set of challenges, namely the temperament of Zyex, which needs a heavy manual pre-stretch to not loose too much tension over time; yet, that same pre-stretch, if overdone, can zap the string of too much of its unique suppleness, so it can be a balancing act of how much pre-stretch to give it (I've reverted to just two long, 30-ish second pulls with my manual crank on each cross, which seems to be a nice middle-ground between enough slack pulled out of the string that it will usually give 20-30 good playable hours, and leaving enough suppleness as to make it feel gut-like enough to be worth using).
I haven't necessarily stopped using it, per say, I just haven't strung it in a while. Mainly due to the fact that Kev/ZX is fussy with pre-stretching and makes for a SLOW string job. But once it's in the racquet, it can play really well. I may give it another try here at some point in the near future.What made you stop using it?
I'm just so amazed that the string bed does exactly what you ask of it, and it does it the same way every single time as long as you're consistent. I think the slow process is worth it. My RF now has gut / ghostwire 19g in it, and while it's nice, it's not as consistent and it made the racket heavier again - it's back up to 360grams which is too much to serve with. Not that its my daily driver, but I'm wishing it was back closer to 350g.I haven't necessarily stopped using it, per say, I just haven't strung it in a while. Mainly due to the fact that Kev/ZX is fussy with pre-stretching and makes for a SLOW string job. But once it's in the racquet, it can play really well. I may give it another try here at some point in the near future.
I had a feeling HGR in the mains would be a better fit, cause lately I‘ve primarily used my HGR frames because the explosive power combined with spin regularly overpowers my opponent, while MaxP is for consistency and handling heavy hitters and the pace they generate. But most opponents I meet play typical clay court tennis and I have to put pressure on them - HGR fits this use case a lot better.@nintendoplayer - Another nice update. Begs the question: might a p/p hybrid of MP mains / HGR crosses be the goldilocks setup? MP mains keeping the overall behavior composed and consistent, HGR crosses allowing just a bit more snapback-based spin, pocketing, pop and general "chaos" factor, without going all the way. I'm sure inquiring minds would love to know!
Would you like to sell your 93p?I have a 93P which I take out for a hit every now and again and it’s a superb addictive feeling frame that is a S & V dream for about 1 hour and then as you fatigue or your level drops off you start to pay because it makes you work harder.
I the the PK Q Tour 315 is a better option - irs easier to use and better weighted in stock form than say a Dunlop CX 200 tour 95 16/19 which had a too low SW: The PS 97, Yonex Percept 97 ( customised to your tastes) are also better choices. I haven’t hit with the 2024 Phantoms but probably would go with the box beam 100p if you like the box beam feel which you seem to do.
Another option I wouid try is the Solinco white out 305 with its 327 sw, it’s 21.7mm beam and customisable but cap inserts. And finally I like the feel of the Angell K 7 Lime and Red, the Diadem Ekevste 98 and the Heysill Tour 97.
Great stuff NP. This is exactly what I've been guiding several middle-aged clients towards – ie. learning how to harness and direct a setup with more power and depth than they'll ever need, as opposed to having to constantly over-exert with a setup that is arguably too under-powered to begin with, or too reigned-in after the fact (usually from too firm a string at too high a tension). To get there, sometimes all it takes is lower tension and/or slightly higher-power string, other times more swing/hitting weight (plus string tweaks), and sometimes a full frame switch to something higher-powered to begin with, but regardless, that's been the general trend, and it usually pays off by raising the "floor" of people's games, almost automatically (less so the ceiling, but that's usually less of a concern at most rec levels – ie. let's just hit our targets with depth, before we start worrying about more cat-and-mouse stuff, which becomes less relevant the more intense the competition gets anyways).While everyone around me is stringing at 24, 25, or even 27 kg with RPM Blast and smashing the ball with full force while struggling for consistency, I have to master the art of effortlessness. I need to come from the other side and learn how to control what is essentially a rocket launcher with my wrist, a loose mind, and a calm subconscious.
Man this stuff is so fascinating.
If you like full-bed Max Power, but want something a hair more supple, more nuanced, but still very tempered and controlled, I would highly recommend trying Head Hawk (not Hawk Touch, not Hawk Power, just plain old original Hawk) – Gray or White for a more crisp feel akin to Max Power, Black for something a bit more smooth-feeling. In my Prestige MP-L's, I ended up preferring more firm poly's overall, so I did extensive testing of many of them, Max Power and Hawk included, and for me, Hawk edged it overall, for the qualities I listed, plus slightly more comfortable, while also offering slightly better snapback and being more dent resistant. Head and IsoSpeed did incredible work with Hawk, and I think it may fit what you're looking for extremely well, potentially better than Max Power.
Head Hawk is a solid, control-oriented poly, but noticeably stiffer and more direct on contact than Max Power. You’ll likely feel more feedback and vibration, especially on off-center hits or defensive slices. That crispness might appeal to players looking for a cleaner response - but in your case it risks putting too much load on your shoulder, especially with your Grip 1, wrist-based control, and frequent use of slice and touch shots. Max Power gives you the controlled, low-launch, shoulder-safe platform you need to play freely and attack with precision - especially in long rallies or against defensive players. Head Hawk could add a touch of sharpness, but at a cost in comfort and forgiveness.
Thanks for your insights, much appreciated. Interestingly, after reflecting on it, even the AI acknowledged your perspective as valid and valuable. It concluded that hands-on experience is ultimately more meaningful than any theoretical model it can produce.With all due respect, this is a potentially classic example of where AI's apparent knowingness is at the very least questionable, if not outright wrong, especially in light of real-world experience. Having actually tried both Max Power and Hawk in the same racquet, at the same spec, strung at the same DT, in the same hitting session, over multiple sessions on differing courts and in differing temperatures and conditions, in my experience at least, if anything it was Max Power that felt slightly more harsh than Hawk, especially as the string bed aged. Now granted, that was in several spec'd-up 2021 Prestige MP-L's, not the Pure Drive at near-stock spec, so the manifested vibration profile and/or translated amount of shock could be different, but at the very least, I still think you need to try the two, before you let any AI (regardless of the neural model or version) convince you otherwise.
As for Tour Bite, it can depend on the gauge you choose, but I find Tour Bite tends to be more harsh than both Max Power and Hawk, as you're coupling similar firmness with extreme biting edgy-ness and plenty of metallic feedback/feel. TB can indeed be very harsh, if one is not careful.
PS: I don't mean to come off as hating on AI for the sake of it here, nor poo-poo-ing your use of it. Quite to the contrary, I think AI can be great and I use it every day, but it has its place and you have to be careful abiding by it as a sole guidance mechanism for certain kinds of insight/knowledge seeking.
Thanks a lot. I would personally exclude 4g soft because Luxilon in general is too expensive for me, replacing strings regularly after 2-3 sessions.In addition to Hawk and TB, I'd also look at:
- Head Hawk Touch (agree with @meltedsteam)
- Luxilon 4G Soft
- MSV Bussard
- Signum Pro Poly Plasma
- Tecnifibre Razor Code
All are low-powered, controlled, predictable, relatively firm (or more so). All have good or better playability maintenance.
One issue I keep running into when testing individual string sets is finding the right tension for each string. Stringing everything at the same tension doesn’t always make sense because each string behaves a bit differently. But once a set is used, it’s done.Woops, you did test Bussard previously, and didn't think it gave you any more control than what you had already found, while being more firm and harsh than what you had already tried in some other strings that actually gave more control. So you can probably skip.
Understood on 4G Soft, though you might still try it just as a reference point / process of elimination?
And yes to the last three: Conf, MPR and Explosive Tour, for sure. I was going to possibly mention Explosive Speed, but it's even more firm and dead than regular 4G, so unless you're willing to string it very low, Explosive Tour might be the better call.
First off, the racquets. If we are to truly isolate on most optimal string setup, you need to remove racquet spec variance to the greatest degree possible (ie. unstrung spec to within 1g, 0.1cm and 1sw point). In my mind, that means you either bring up the 288 and 289 unstrung SW PD samples to match the 296sw sample to within that tolerance, or, if doing so takes you too far outside/above your optimal spec, then you dump the 296sw sample and source a third PD with an unstrung spec more in-line with the first two. That to me is a no brainer. I realize you might not like hearing that, but it just is what it is.[...] finding the right tension for each string [...] same tension doesn’t always make sense because each string behaves a bit differently.[...] So how do you deal with this without wasting too much money? [...] been thinking about testing every new string at 22 kg and comparing directly against Max Power at that same tension. That would at least give me a consistent baseline [...] not perfect either. [...] Making it even trickier, my Pure Drive frames [are] 286, 289, and 296 [sw] unstrung. Naturally, each string feels a little different depending on which frame I use. [...] maybe [...] buy a full reel so I can test it across multiple tensions. But that gets expensive and complicated very quickly. That’s why I find Mark Sansait’s approach interesting. He tests every string at the same reference tension. Yes, it might not be the ideal setup for every string, but at least it makes comparisons more objective.
I think you're answering you're own question. The PD type frame really seems to be the best choice for you, all things considers. Sure, you could delve back into multiple frames again and go back down that rabbit hole, but ultimately I think you'd come right back around full circle again, with very similar, if not identical, experiences and realizations — at least if pure competitiveness remains your number one goal. But I get what you're yearning for: you don't want to leave any possible level of compromise on the table. If there's a more suitable frame in any way, you want to be using it. I get that. But at some point, as I said earlier, I think that bell curve on diminished amount of return versus the energy/time to go looking, let alone find that frame, comes back in favor of just sticking with what you've got. That aside, I also think it's of course important to continue to keep the curiosity and fun alive by periodically trying new frames, so absolutely, continue to do that if that's what makes you happy. Ultimately, though, it seems like what you have in your hand now is probably the best for you.Now about the racquet choice. [...] Right now I think the most practical solution is to carry two Pure Drives with different tensions. One strung looser for depth and defense, and one tighter for matches where I need to attack more and take time away from pushers. [...] Still, part of me wonders if I should carry a Blade just in case, or demo the Whiteout V2, or maybe try some other 98 to get a more natural swing on the one-handed backhand.
But I keep landing on the same truth. I need help from the racquet. I need that automatic mode. And I just have to learn how to control my attack game within that setup.
Is the 93p the right choice for me? the answer is NO. Only Federer can produce some miracles on the court with a 93
I didn’t originally plan to switch racquets right away. My idea was just to have a more controlled alternative to the Pure Drive, because in my last few league matches I kept facing classic pushers, and I just couldn’t finish points precisely enough when moving forward and trying to close at the net.@nintendoplayer - Couldn't help yourself eh?Whatever puts a smile your face at the end of the day, is the right racquet for you I suppose!
Ha! I ended up switching to the PS X. So so good for me. Never ended up trying the Blade 100. Glad you've found something that suits you more. I think from where you started with the 93 P, going to a Pure Drive seemed quite a big change, now you seem to be somewhere in the middle with the Blades. @Trip you want to chime in if you know to explain the difference between the PS X and Blade 100 v9? They're pretty similar no?I didn’t originally plan to switch racquets right away. My idea was just to have a more controlled alternative to the Pure Drive, because in my last few league matches I kept facing classic pushers, and I just couldn’t finish points precisely enough when moving forward and trying to close at the net.
Against pushers at the level of Germany’s 3rd league, heavy spin and deep balls are often not enough. These players are built to absorb that. The only way through is to attack and finish the point, more like Federer than Zverev.
When I first tried the Blade 100, I was surprised by how much power it still had compared to the Pure Drive, but with way more control on aggressive shots, at the net, on winners, and especially on the backhand. The thinner beam also made the racquet easier to swing through the air with noticeably less drag.
Then I tested the 98, and it felt even more surgical and even better suited to attacking. And since I now regularly face high-level pushers, I really need that extra precision to shorten points. In my last league match on clay, I played something close to Wimbledon-style tennis, with lots of volleys and drop shots at the net. Touch was key, and the Blade delivers that in a way the Pure Drive just never could.
On volleys, I feel how the frame flexes slightly and holds the ball a touch longer. I even got compliments from spectators calling my net game “sugar hands” thanks to those soft volleys. That’s actually my natural game – touch, finesse – and the Blade brings that out.
So I ended up buying two Blade 98s and two Blade 100s, just to have the option. If needed, I can still use the 100 for a more spin-heavy game, but with much better control than a Pure Drive.
So far though, the 98 is clearly winning out. I’m playing very consistently with it, a lot more precise, and able to pressure my opponents more effectively and finish points quicker.
Compared to the Blade V8, this version feels much more complete. The added power and stability really help. I’m still testing which swingweight works best for me, but the 318 SW version I have now feels quite solid.
Thanks @Trip again, you've confirmed i've made the right choice.@pdparos78 - PS X vs Blade 100: PS X is basically a PS 97 with a 100" hoop, equally scaled-open 16x19 and a higher stock twist weight. Blade 100 is similarly upsized versus the 98, only with a bit thicker beam (22mm, versus 21mm) and not as elevated a twist weight. PS X has a taller handle with a smaller, narrower neck and 6 throat mains, so handle-to-hoop feels more like a single, firm rod type of feel; Blade has a shorter handle with a longer, wider, slightly flexier neck and 8 throat mains, so handle-to-hoop feel has a bit more of a "bend and bow" type of feeling. Drill spacing of the mains is almost identical in both, but the PS X has wider distribution of crosses, particularly towards 12 and 6, creating more uniform ball bite and less of a "bouncy island" type of feel to the string bed, a hair better for all-court craftsmanship and application of variety, whereas the Blade's will give you a bit more pop from the baseline and concentration on purely flat striking from distance, which is more or less exactly where it's meant to be at home. Beam-wise, the PS X is more classically box-beamed (with rounded corners), whereas the Blade's neck has a similar box beam, but then morphs into its signature "D" beam at just about where the neck pieces join the hoop at 5 and 7. This makes the Blade a bit more aerodynamic the further away you get from purely back-to-front swing motion, as does the slightly lower twist weight make it a tad easier to turn over the racquet face on topspin groundies from both wings.
Overall, somewhat similar frames, especially if applying 5-10g of handle weight to the Blade, but each have their distinct differences that make them suited more to their silo heritage. Overall, I could see either one working for you, with perhaps an edge to the PS X, considering your racquet DNA, biomechanics and overall play style.
Hope that helps!
It's interesting just how you grinded your opponent out and won that first point. He looked like he should have won it, but your defense tired him out and forced the error.Switching from Pure Drive to Blade 98 V9 – my takeaways
I moved from the Pure Drive (SW ~320, 25–26 kg) to the Blade 98 V9. At first I strung it tight (26–26.5 kg, SW 320–326) which gave me control but often left me short and forced me to work too hard. Then I lowered tension step by step and ended up at 22 kg Tour Bite with SW 321–323.
The difference is huge. My arm feels much looser, my technique is cleaner, and I can hit with more effortless depth. My one handed backhand longline has become a real weapon.
Another surprise: string life. With 22 kg Tour Bite I have already played several long multi hour sessions and still have very good control. It even feels better as the tension settles and my arm gets looser. I am curious to see how long it lasts before breaking.
Lower tension forces me to stay loose, higher swingweight gives me stability, and overall the Blade is pushing me toward cleaner and healthier tennis.
Yeah I often hear that I am an annoying opponent because I get so many balls back, almost like a pusher. But I do not really see myself that way, I just wait for the right moment to attackIt's interesting just how you grinded your opponent out and won that first point. He looked like he should have won it, but your defense tired him out and forced the
Hahah look i'm not going to lie, that session was a little moon-bally but hey it works! Even Sabalenka and Alcaraz resorted to such tactics at the right times to change the rhythm.Yeah I often hear that I am an annoying opponent because I get so many balls back, almost like a pusher. But I do not really see myself that way, I just wait for the right moment to attack
Yeah I often hear that I am an annoying opponent because I get so many balls back, almost like a pusher. But I do not really see myself that way, I just wait for the right moment to attack
100% this - give this advice often - forward balance produces this.Your defense is consistency is great, but one thing to keep in mind is that "right moment to attack" depends on how you feel about what you can execute.
Your balls tend to loop and sit up because you are hasitant to transfer weight forward and through the shot, which would produce a lower, more agressive shot.
Better players will exploit that as soon as you give them a shorter sitter like that.
Medicine ball practice is a perfect way to develop that forward weight trasfer feel through the stroke and that in turn that will get you playing more agressively (more right moments to attack)