klippermate vs The Silent Partner Swing.

[tennisfreak15347]

I'm completely confused. it says that for a dropweight to work, the tensioning device has to fall completely horizontal. how do i know when it becomes horizontal? (completely). also, which is a better stringing machine? Klippermate or the Silent Partner Swing. here are the specs for the silent partner swing.

"No other machine in this price range has a six-point mouting system, an integrated clutch and a string gripper with diamond-coated jaws. The clutch alone will save you a tremendous amount of aggravation. Drop weight machines can be a nightmare to use. This one is terrific.

* Drop weight tensioner with clutch
* 6-point mounting system (see FAQ 6 & 7)
* Two premium all-metal flying clamps
* Diamond -coated string gripper
* Awl and needle nose pliers included
* 360 degree racquet rotation
* Brake
* Ultra convenient string gripper "

can anyone help me please?

 

[mrw]

Ahhhh this has been covered many times before. search and ye shall find.

Both work fine in my opinion i am very happy with my Klipper

 

[Nuke]

And I'm happy with my Swing. Both are proven machines. And you need to also look at the Gamma X-2, if you're considering this price range. Search, search.

 

[tennisfreak15347]

im not considering the X-2 since someone told me that it's clamps were horrible. Just to inform everyone, this is my first stringing machine and I've never strung a racquet in my life before. Currently it's between the Silent Partner Swing and the klippermate. I'm assuming that the swing is better, since it's also pricier, correct?

*Edit*, also, does the swing come with the same tools needed to string as the klippermate does? ( clamps, awl, anything else I cant think of)

 

[WildVolley]

I'm an owner of a Swing, which I might sell in the future now that I have a crank machine too. The Swing is a fine machine. The "6-point" form of 2-point mount on the Swing works well, but it is slower to mount correctly than simpler 2-point systems. The overall machine is sturdy and the clamps work well as long as you adjust them.

I've never strung on a Klippermate. Just from looking at it, I'd say the 2-point mounting system isn't quite as good as that on the Swing, but I'm sure it is quicker.

Klippermate clamps have a reputation for working well, so we'll call that a wash.

The Swing has the ability to hold the rotational gripper and lift the weight again to get to horizontal. With the Klipper, you need to release the string and then lift the arm again. Experienced Klippermate people claim it isn't a problem or slow once you get the hang of it, and I believe them.

The Swing has a friction brake to lock the turntable (you just crank in a screw - it works but not the best system). I don't know about the Klippermate.

The Swing is more expensive than the Klippermate. Both are capable of doing good quality/consistent string jobs by a stringer experienced with the machine who knows the tricks of the trade.

 

[tennisfreak15347]

^^^ I'm a bit confused about the "rotational gripper" thing your mentioning. 1. what is it, 2. what does it do, 3. how can i tell if the arm or whatever it's called is horizontal, 4. if the arm of whatever it's called is not horizontal, would that increase/decrease the tension?

*Edit* I decided that I'll just go with the klipper, but would still like my questions to be answered...

 

[GPB]

I'm also comparing these machines (and the x-2) , and I'm interested in seeing the answers.

 

[WildVolley]

^^^ I'm a bit confused about the "rotational gripper" thing your mentioning. 1. what is it, 2. what does it do, 3. how can i tell if the arm or whatever it's called is horizontal, 4. if the arm of whatever it's called is not horizontal, would that increase/decrease the tension?

*Edit* I decided that I'll just go with the klipper, but would still like my questions to be answered...

A rotational gripper is a gripper that looks like a drum with a slot in it. You wrap the string around the drum and then through the slot. When the weight on the arm turns it, the string tightens around the drum and squeezes down on the part in the slot gripping it. So the pressure of the string around the drum is used to hold the portion of the string in the slot (which is diamond coated or something) and pull tension on the string.

On the swing, you can grab the rotational gripper in your hand, hold it still, and lift the tension arm independently if it has already dropped past level. This allows you to get the tension arm to horizontal without having to release the string from the gripper.

3. Unless you build in a reference point or put a level of some sort on the tension arm, you just judge if it is horizontal by looking at it. You can get a good feel for it after a while.

4. If it isn't level, it is definitely going to be pulling a different tension. It is simple physics. Torque is created by force at a distance. Above or below horizontal means a different amount of pull on the string.

This is what those expensive trick dropweights are about. They have an offset puller that is designed to pull the same tension regardless of the angle of the tension arm. It's a simple physics problem, though I haven't worked it out myself. It's certainly an elegant solution and one that I wish were more widely adopted. I'm not sure what the patent issue on it is like.

 

[tennisfreak15347]

*Edit* never mind about the klipper, I'll shell out a few extra bucks for the swing, it seems more convenient.

 

[meowmix]

BTW, Gamma's clamps aren't horrible- they're good, but not as good as those of the klipper. Gamma's clamps simply wear out a little sooner than do those of Klippers, roughly around 150 rackets or so. For us mere mortals, Gamma clamps will last us a good 3-4 years before we need new ones.

 

[max]

I can't directly compare the Swing and the Klippermate. I've only used the Klippermate. The gamma clamps are also impossible to open using just one hand and moderate pressure: mine takes both hands and a lot of tugging. Kmate's better, for me.

 

[Deleted member 25923]

I'm an owner of a Swing, which I might sell in the future now that I have a crank machine too. The Swing is a fine machine. The "6-point" form of 2-point mount on the Swing works well, but it is slower to mount correctly than simpler 2-point systems. The overall machine is sturdy and the clamps work well as long as you adjust them.

I've never strung on a Klippermate. Just from looking at it, I'd say the 2-point mounting system isn't quite as good as that on the Swing, but I'm sure it is quicker.

Klippermate clamps have a reputation for working well, so we'll call that a wash.

The Swing has the ability to hold the rotational gripper and lift the weight again to get to horizontal. With the Klipper, you need to release the string and then lift the arm again. Experienced Klippermate people claim it isn't a problem or slow once you get the hang of it, and I believe them.

The Swing has a friction brake to lock the turntable (you just crank in a screw - it works but not the best system). I don't know about the Klippermate.

The Swing is more expensive than the Klippermate. Both are capable of doing good quality/consistent string jobs by a stringer experienced with the machine who knows the tricks of the trade.

I like my Swing as well, but the brake is more of a lock. It only works at certain angles.

A rotational gripper is a gripper that looks like a drum with a slot in it. You wrap the string around the drum and then through the slot. When the weight on the arm turns it, the string tightens around the drum and squeezes down on the part in the slot gripping it. So the pressure of the string around the drum is used to hold the portion of the string in the slot (which is diamond coated or something) and pull tension on the string.

On the swing, you can grab the rotational gripper in your hand, hold it still, and lift the tension arm independently if it has already dropped past level. This allows you to get the tension arm to horizontal without having to release the string from the gripper.

3. Unless you build in a reference point or put a level of some sort on the tension arm, you just judge if it is horizontal by looking at it. You can get a good feel for it after a while.

4. If it isn't level, it is definitely going to be pulling a different tension. It is simple physics. Torque is created by force at a distance. Above or below horizontal means a different amount of pull on the string.

This is what those expensive trick dropweights are about. They have an offset puller that is designed to pull the same tension regardless of the angle of the tension arm. It's a simple physics problem, though I haven't worked it out myself. It's certainly an elegant solution and one that I wish were more widely adopted. I'm not sure what the patent issue on it is like.

I can tell if it's horizontal without even getting my eyes level to the table. You can tell once you've done it enough from an almost overhead view (like I just stand in the same position as when I string)

I can't directly compare the Swing and the Klippermate. I've only used the Klippermate. The gamma clamps are also impossible to open using just one hand and moderate pressure: mine takes both hands and a lot of tugging. Kmate's better, for me.

I've used the ATS clamps, equivalent of Gamma and man were those hard to use. Too bulky, too hard to open/close, and I cut my hands on them. SP clamps are way better! Just hard to find the right adjustment point.

 

[Nuke]

I can tell if it's horizontal without even getting my eyes level to the table. You can tell once you've done it enough from an almost overhead view (like I just stand in the same position as when I string)

The tension drum on the Swing has a dot on it that lines up with the notch where the screw that attaches the arm goes, when the arm is horizontal. It's much easier and quicker to look down on the top of the drum for the dot instead of judging if the arm is perfectly horizontal.

 

[tennisfreak15347]

^^^ interesting. that makes me want to buy it even more, :twisted:

 

[Nuke]

Here, from another thread (thanks to lethalfang), is a picture looking down on the Swing's drum, showing the dot lining up with the notch when the arm is horizontal:

 

[Deleted member 25923]

The tension drum on the Swing has a dot on it that lines up with the notch where the screw that attaches the arm goes, when the arm is horizontal. It's much easier and quicker to look down on the top of the drum for the dot instead of judging if the arm is perfectly horizontal.

Here, from another thread (thanks to lethalfang), is a picture looking down on the Swing's drum, showing the dot lining up with the notch when the arm is horizontal:

Thanks Nuke, that should save even more time now.



Also, OP, i'd invest in a starting clamp. I hate when my clamp slips when starting mains!

 

[WildVolley]

Also, OP, i'd invest in a starting clamp. I hate when my clamp slips when starting mains!

Also, a starting clamp makes it easy to clamp outside the frame or in the throat on the first mains so you don't have to try to pull two of them at once. I find this is particularly important when starting poly on the mains.

 

[Deleted member 25923]

Also, a starting clamp makes it easy to clamp outside the frame or in the throat on the first mains so you don't have to try to pull two of them at once. I find this is particularly important when starting poly on the mains.

Yes, but it's more important if the outside clamping is at the throat. The head shouldn't be a problem w/ flying clamps. I tried it once using the starting clamp as mentioned, and the string would slip on the floating clamp that was holding 2 strings at once. I would need the starting clamp to stop the slippage.

 

[tennisfreak15347]

i heard that starting clamps were pricey. I found on YULitle's video how to start the mains without a starting clamp, which was, at one point, using a flying clamp at the throat, and it looks to work pretty well. I'm still learning how to use a starting pin to start the mains, but after that, I dont think a starting clamp would be needed.

 

[tennisfreak15347]

by the way, nuke, is that dot found on every silent partner swing, or is that just a blemish?

 

[kirtar]

It should be on every SP Swing...unless mine happens to have the same "blemish"

 

[Nuke]

The dot came pre-installed on my Swing by the factory. The photo is from TT member lethalfang, and his Swing apparently came with the dot, so I have to believe it's a feature, although the Swing manual doesn't mention it. If you have any dropweight machine with a drum-shaped tensioner, you can probably add your own dot with a Sharpie.

 

[max]

The Swing looks like a nice machine. I'm a bit apprehensive about the claim to having a 6-pt. mount; not sure if it really qualifies for that claim. But a nice looking machine.

 

[Deleted member 25923]

The dot came pre-installed on my Swing by the factory. The photo is from TT member lethalfang, and his Swing apparently came with the dot, so I have to believe it's a feature, although the Swing manual doesn't mention it. If you have any dropweight machine with a drum-shaped tensioner, you can probably add your own dot with a Sharpie.

I too have the same dot, always wondered what it was for, I know now.

 

[tennisfreak15347]

The Swing looks like a nice machine. I'm a bit apprehensive about the claim to having a 6-pt. mount; not sure if it really qualifies for that claim. But a nice looking machine.

they claim it's a 6 point, but it's not a real 6 point, its just a 2-point with some attachments, but it's definetly more stable than the 2 point.

 

[WildVolley]

It's definitely not what most people would think of as a 6-points, as all 6-points are concentrated at the throat and top of the head, where a normal 2-point has contact. The outer "points" are probably only between 3-4" apart.

When adjusted properly, I believe it helps add stability to the racquet as compared to a traditional 2-point. The only downside, in my estimation, is the extra time it takes to adjust. If you're stringing the same sort of racquet and have it properly adjusted, then it takes no longer than a traditional screw-down 2-point.

 

[Deleted member 25923]

It's definitely not what most people would think of as a 6-points, as all 6-points are concentrated at the throat and top of the head, where a normal 2-point has contact. The outer "points" are probably only between 3-4" apart.

When adjusted properly, I believe it helps add stability to the racquet as compared to a traditional 2-point. The only downside, in my estimation, is the extra time it takes to adjust. If you're stringing the same sort of racquet and have it properly adjusted, then it takes no longer than a traditional screw-down 2-point.

True that, it can be frustrating if you accidentally pull the racquet away from the d supports while using the microadjuster. Grr, makes me wanna go apesh!t.

Still I personally feel it's more stable.

 

[tennisfreak15347]

I dont understand the "w" supporters and "d" supporters. how do I put them on. I cant figure that out from the manuel. can anyone school me in putting the racquet properly onto the SPS?

 

[Deleted member 25923]

D supports are in the shape of a Capital D. Same goes for the W supports and its corresponding shape.

Mine came with the W and D supports already on.