Looking for a really slick syngut

I found Volkl V-Wrap fairly slick actually... Only have it in a full bed in a feeding stick though.
 
Try Gosen AK Pro. TWU has it at a very low string-to-string friction. It's a solid core but it's on the soft side. Also, it will give the racquet a more solid feel.
 
For ALU mains, Babolat SG is good, but Gosen makes strings that have lower COF. Volkl SG is good too. For 4G, I would use something like Monogut ZX 16 Ga (prestretched) because it will easily last as long as the 4G.
 
After lots of research and reading other people's opinions in previous threads on this board and others... it sounds like Head Syngut PPS would be the slickest of them all. But according to TW University it has a very poor string to string COF rating and spin potential is low. Hmmm... who do you trust? :confused:

Anyhow, from all that I have gathered the top four to try would be Gosen AK Pro CX, Tourna Synthetic Gut Armor, Volkl Synthetic Gut and Gosen AK Pro.
 
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TennisManiac said:
After lots of research and reading other people's opinions in previous threads on this board and others... it sounds like Head Syngut PPS would be the slickest of them all. But according to TW University it has a very poor string to string COF rating and spin potential is low. Hmmm... who do you trust? :confused:

Anyhow, from all that I have gathered the top four to try would be Gosen AK Pro CX, Tourna Synthetic Gut Armor, Volkl Synthetic Gut and Gosen AK Pro.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. TWU is both correct and incorrect.

17g = .074 (very very low S2S friction, much better than most polys).

16g = .108 (not as low but still lower than most multi/synthetic guts.

Source: http://twu.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/reporter2.php

NOTE:
Most multi/SG with very low S2S friction becomes sticky very quickly (15 minutes to 5 hours of use).
Ashaway Monogut ZX, on the other hand, remains slippery until it breaks, which is forever. And it is very comfortable.
However, I am afraid to string it because I break it often while stringing and specially when tying off the knot.
 
ricardo said:
Yes and no. TWU is both correct and incorrect.

17g = .074 (very very low S2S friction, much better than most polys).

16g = .108 (not as low but still lower than most multi/synthetic guts.

Source: http://twu.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/reporter2.php

NOTE:
Most multi/SG with very low S2S friction becomes sticky very quickly (15 minutes to 5 hours of use).
Ashaway Monogut ZX, on the other hand, remains slippery until it breaks, which is forever. And it is very comfortable.
However, I am afraid to string it because I break it often while stringing and specially when tying off the knot.
Click to expand...
If you don't mind me asking, how do you break it when you're stringing? I actually thought about trying Monogut ZX.
 
There is a package warning about exceeding 60#. You can exceed it, but you are on your own if you break it. Shroud says he has exceeded ZX's 60# limit and it did not break. The string stretches a lot when under tension. If you have an eCP or DW, you have to let it pull out all this plastic deformation. It may take at least 2 tries. Eventually, the DW/eCP will no longer drop/adjust. String maybe 2-4# looser because the string is really stretched. You can also prestretch the ZX manually, e.g. 18-22" longer on a 1/2 set. After doing this twice and having the string stretch even more, I just decided to go slow on the machine for the latest sets. It will settle. When tying knots, do not try to make the knot really small and neat. Tight turns can shear the string, which is where a lot of issues arise. :eek:
 
TennisManiac said:
If you don't mind me asking, how do you break it when you're stringing? I actually thought about trying Monogut ZX.
Click to expand...

tying off knots mostly.

what I learned is that i should only tighten it about 1/4 (25%) of my usual tie-off knot using other strings.
I should tighten the knot using only 1 finger instead of using a starting clamp to tighten it.
Even if there is a gaping hole in the knot big enough to fit 3-4 tips of an awl, the knot will not un-ravel/loosen.
 
ricardo said:
tying off knots mostly.

what I learned is that i should only tighten it about 1/4 (25%) of my usual tie-off knot using other strings.
I should tighten the knot using only 1 finger instead of using a starting clamp to tighten it.
Even if there is a gaping hole in the knot big enough to fit 3-4 tips of an awl, the knot will not un-ravel/loosen.
Click to expand...
Interesting. I noticed on the order page it says "Due to the low tensile strength, use extra caution while stringing. Do not use tensions over 60 lbs, and do not over pull knots."
I'm glad you brought this up. I just ordered a pack of this to hybrid as a cross with 4G mains. Hope it works.
 
esgee48 said:
There is a package warning about exceeding 60#. You can exceed it, but you are on your own if you break it. Shroud says he has exceeded ZX's 60# limit and it did not break. The string stretches a lot when under tension. If you have an eCP or DW, you have to let it pull out all this plastic deformation. It may take at least 2 tries. Eventually, the DW/eCP will no longer drop/adjust. String maybe 2-4# looser because the string is really stretched. You can also prestretch the ZX manually, e.g. 18-22" longer on a 1/2 set. After doing this twice and having the string stretch even more, I just decided to go slow on the machine for the latest sets. It will settle. When tying knots, do not try to make the knot really small and neat. Tight turns can shear the string, which is where a lot of issues arise. :eek:
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it.
 
ricardo said:
Most multi/SG with very low S2S friction becomes sticky very quickly (15 minutes to 5 hours of use).
Ashaway Monogut ZX, on the other hand, remains slippery until it breaks, which is forever. And it is very comfortable.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I found with Head syngut PPS... goes sticky and locking up mains in 0.5~1 hr. (Thus numbers in database isn't appliable)

I will definetely give MZX a try.


Also for alternatives, anyone has experience with soft crosses that keep slickness and playability well besides MZX ?
intrested in several names from searching:

Dunlop Hexy Fibre
Babolat SG Spiraltek
Head Velocity MLT
Pro Supex Maxim Touch
Tecnifibre HDX Tour
Gosen CompositeMaster
Gosen Polylon Comfort
Weiss Cannon 6 Star Supercharged
 
ricki said:
babolat SG/N.Vy? Definitely not Prince syngut...
Click to expand...
n.vy notched up and locked the poly mains in about 5 minutes when I tried it. No idea why it was marketed as a cross string. Isn't it discontinued anyway?

+1 Monogut ZX best choice for this
 
I have to admit, I'm not thrilled to see that Monogut ZX loses just as much tension as Alu Power. That's one of the reasons I'm looking to get away from using a full bed of Alu. It only lasts me about 3 or 4 hours. I'm hoping that hybriding either Alu or 4G with a syngut will increase the life of the string bed. But according to TW University Monogut ZX loses just as much tension as Alu. I actually didn't catch that before I orderd it last night. Oh well, guess I'll find out soon.
 
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TennisManiac said:
I have to admit, I'm not thrilled to see that Monogut ZX loses just as much tension as Alu Power. That's one of the reasons I'm looking to get away from using a full bed of Alu. It only lasts me about 3 or 4 hours. I'm hoping that hybriding either Alu of 4G with a syngut will increase the life of the string bed. But according to TW University Monogut ZX loses just as much tension as Alu. I actually didn't catch that before I orderd it last night. Oh well, guess I'll find out soon.
Click to expand...
I don't think your purchase is a waste. If you have a lock out machine, you will have to manually pre-stretch ZX fairly aggressively because lock outs aren't great for elongating strings. An electronic can be set to pre-stretrch, so that would be good. Drop weight machines will elongate the strings if you don't clamp too quickly. The trick is to be very consistent about how long you have each string under tension. You will have to correct the horizontal bar several times. Setting a high enough reference tension (60 max) and moving slowly but consistently will pull a lot of elongation out of the string and the string bed won't soften too much more by the time you use it. Go easy on the knots.

edit: OTOH, ZX may not be a great choice to replace ALU. ZX is very, very elastic and polys are firm. Maybe use a RIP Control cross with ZX mains to firm up the string bed.
 
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ZX will lose a ton of tension if not prestretched before installation. If you have a DW/eCP, you can see the bloody string just stretch....... Once it stops stretching at your reference tension, it is pretty stable.

TennisManiac: Got to prestretch the string. If you do not do this, the tension drops very fast. I found that prestretching removes a lot of the plastic deformation, but it does not remove all of it. If your stringer has a LO, he needs to pull the string at least twice to remove elongation from the string. If he uses a DW/eCP, then he needs to wait for the tensioner to stop moving before clamping.

TW's comparision does not include the prestretch, which is why the string has lousy tension maintenance.
 
Ok thanks guys. I have an Eagnus Flex 940 crank/lock out machine. So I'll just plan on slow pulling the Monogut each time nice and evenly. I'm assuming that will work pretty well. I had planned on stringing 4G mains at 46 and Monogut ZX crosses at 49. I'm wondering if perhaps I should go up a tad with the Monogut. What do you guys think?
 
ANY SynGut will cut into poly mains as polyamide is more dense than polyester. And btw. Im not in "ZX hype". Nylon is stretchy during stringing and it it loses some, but also there is pretty a lot of elasticity remaining in the strings to keep stringbed vital for a good while.
 
ricki said:
ANY SynGut will cut into poly mains as polyamide is more dense than polyester. And btw. Im not in "ZX hype". Nylon is stretchy during stringing and it it loses some, but also there is pretty a lot of elasticity remaining in the strings to keep stringbed vital for a good while.
Click to expand...
I broke ZX 17 on my last stringing attempt. My guess is I may have introduced a twist on one of my stringing through the grommets. That was my first time in 3 attempts. No problem the 4th time.
 
ricardo said:
tying off knots mostly.

what I learned is that i should only tighten it about 1/4 (25%) of my usual tie-off knot using other strings.
I should tighten the knot using only 1 finger instead of using a starting clamp to tighten it.
Even if there is a gaping hole in the knot big enough to fit 3-4 tips of an awl, the knot will not un-ravel/loosen.
Click to expand...

If you're not using it already, try the Parnell knot. I find it cinches up tight with no gap with very little tension (easily done by hand) compared to the DHH and I've never had it loosen. Leave about 1/8" to 1/4" (3 mm to 6 mm) of string when you cut off the excess.
 
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