ElMagoElGato
Semi-Pro
For what it's worth, I'd like to share my findings. Who cares? But still.
I've got an Eagnas Smart 909 equipped with spring-assisted clamp bases. The manual only describes how to adjust it by a horizontal small screw hidden inside. You can access it by placing the base perpendicular to the rail and using a 3mm Allen wrench through the side hole. This is known as micro adjustment.
Another way known as macro adjustment is by a vertical large screw. You’ll find nuts on the screw if you look up at the rail from underneath.
The two words, micro and macro, confused me. I thought they were basically the same thing and just would do it small or big. No. They’re two different things. The vertical screw determines the gap between the base and the rail. The horizontal screw determines the play of the base lever; i.e. how much it travels before it starts engaging the brake inside the base.
So, first of all, you should set the gap between the base and the rail using the vertical screw and nuts. You should allow enough room and let the base move smoothly. It has to be just about right but should never be tight.
Then use the horizontal screw to adjust the play of the base lever. Remember, changing this doesn’t change the gap between the base and the rail. I adjusted the angle of the play to be about 45 degrees. I wanted to make the angle smaller but then the lever got tight and never moved smoothly. You shouldn’t expect too much preciseness on these machines. You’ve got to live with it if you can find one good spot at least.
By the way, the 3mm Allen wrench that came with the machine was too short to access the screw through the side hole. This confused me as well. You should remove the round rid to come close to the screw or use a longer wrench.
This is basically the procedure to adjust the base but I had another problem.
One of the base lever didn’t lock hard enough no matter how hard I pushed it. Here, there seems a difference from the clamp base of Babolat Star 3 or 4. Those bases look similar but you’re not supposed to push the lever hard on those. On Eagnas bases, the harder you push the lever, the harder the base locks.
Anyway, I noticed the two 3mm Allen screws at the bottom of the lever were loose. I tightened them. Then I could lock the lever harder but the movement of the lever got tight. I loosened the screws a little bit to find a good spot to allow good locking and smooth movement. I had to adjust the horizontal screw again after this. I’m not sure if this is true across all the machines. I didn’t dare to disassemble the lever, so I don’t know why it happened.
One thing I’m still wondering is the rectangular piece of metal inside gap of the rail. It is fairly loose. Sometimes, the base slips a little because there isn’t enough friction on the rail but stops at the point seemingly the rectangular piece inside is hitting the wall of the gap of the rail. Maybe making the piece wider reduces the amount of drawback at times.
Hope this is useful to somebody.
I've got an Eagnas Smart 909 equipped with spring-assisted clamp bases. The manual only describes how to adjust it by a horizontal small screw hidden inside. You can access it by placing the base perpendicular to the rail and using a 3mm Allen wrench through the side hole. This is known as micro adjustment.
Another way known as macro adjustment is by a vertical large screw. You’ll find nuts on the screw if you look up at the rail from underneath.
The two words, micro and macro, confused me. I thought they were basically the same thing and just would do it small or big. No. They’re two different things. The vertical screw determines the gap between the base and the rail. The horizontal screw determines the play of the base lever; i.e. how much it travels before it starts engaging the brake inside the base.
So, first of all, you should set the gap between the base and the rail using the vertical screw and nuts. You should allow enough room and let the base move smoothly. It has to be just about right but should never be tight.
Then use the horizontal screw to adjust the play of the base lever. Remember, changing this doesn’t change the gap between the base and the rail. I adjusted the angle of the play to be about 45 degrees. I wanted to make the angle smaller but then the lever got tight and never moved smoothly. You shouldn’t expect too much preciseness on these machines. You’ve got to live with it if you can find one good spot at least.
By the way, the 3mm Allen wrench that came with the machine was too short to access the screw through the side hole. This confused me as well. You should remove the round rid to come close to the screw or use a longer wrench.
This is basically the procedure to adjust the base but I had another problem.
One of the base lever didn’t lock hard enough no matter how hard I pushed it. Here, there seems a difference from the clamp base of Babolat Star 3 or 4. Those bases look similar but you’re not supposed to push the lever hard on those. On Eagnas bases, the harder you push the lever, the harder the base locks.
Anyway, I noticed the two 3mm Allen screws at the bottom of the lever were loose. I tightened them. Then I could lock the lever harder but the movement of the lever got tight. I loosened the screws a little bit to find a good spot to allow good locking and smooth movement. I had to adjust the horizontal screw again after this. I’m not sure if this is true across all the machines. I didn’t dare to disassemble the lever, so I don’t know why it happened.
One thing I’m still wondering is the rectangular piece of metal inside gap of the rail. It is fairly loose. Sometimes, the base slips a little because there isn’t enough friction on the rail but stops at the point seemingly the rectangular piece inside is hitting the wall of the gap of the rail. Maybe making the piece wider reduces the amount of drawback at times.
Hope this is useful to somebody.
