Mathematicians of TT: Lend me your skills!

Jonny S&V

Hall of Fame
Okay, I have a Dunlop M-fil 200 that I want to try and lead up to 13 ounces AND have it at even-balance (just to see what it would be like). If this is possible, please help me out. I am awful at math and would appreciate any and all help! Here are the stats to my racquet (courtesy of TW):

Head Size:
95 sq. in. / 613 sq. cm.
Length: 27 inches / 69 cm
Strung Weight: 12.1oz
Balance: 6pts Head Light
Swingweight: 337
Stiffness: 61
Beam Width: 20 mm Straight Beam
Composition: Hot Melt Braided Graphite w / Elastomer / Kevlar Yoke
Power Level: Low-Medium
Swing Speed: Fast
Grip Type: Hydramax Tour
String Pattern:
18 Mains / 20 Crosses
Mains skip: 9T,8H,10H
One Piece
No shared holes
String Tension: 55-65 pounds
 
Great Lord, that would be a monster stick.

13 oz and even balance. The swing weight will be around 400.

There are many different ways to do it and here are two hypothetical possibilities:

1) Add 22 grams at 12 o'clock and add 3 grams at butt cap
The new swing weight will be 413

2) Add 19 grams at 12 o'clock and add 6 grams at the middle of the racket (the new balance point, 13.5" from the butt).
The new swing weight will be 406.

There are other ways as well. However to add 25 grams (to make it 13 oz) and make it even balance mean you have to add quite a bit near the upper hoops so the swing weight will be very high.
 
Great Lord, that would be a monster stick.

13 oz and even balance. The swing weight will be around 400.

There are many different ways to do it and here are two hypothetical possibilities:

1) Add 22 grams at 12 o'clock and add 3 grams at butt cap
The new swing weight will be 413

2) Add 19 grams at 12 o'clock and add 6 grams at the middle of the racket (the new balance point, 13.5" from the butt).
The new swing weight will be 406.

There are other ways as well. However to add 25 grams (to make it 13 oz) and make it even balance mean you have to add quite a bit near the upper hoops so the swing weight will be very high.

Thanks for the reply. Is there anyway to do this if I am putting lead at 3 & 9 exclusively?
 
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You do a measurement from the butt to the 3 or 9 o'clock position and I can do a calculation for you but I doubt it because you have two requirements (13 oz and even balance).

Keep in mind that you need to add 25 g in order to make it 13 oz, one of your two requirements.
 
You do a measurement from the butt to the 3 or 9 o'clock position and I can do a calculation for you but I doubt it because you have two requirements (13 oz and even balance).

Keep in mind that you need to add 25 g in order to make it 13 oz, one of your two requirements.

Ah, so complicated... :confused: How about if I just wanted to make it even-balance (13 oz not being an issue)?
 
That would still require a lot of mass. Again there are several ways to do it.

Add 18 g at 12 o'clock you will have a 12.7 oz racket with a swing weight of 399.
 
That would still require a lot of mass. Again there are several ways to do it.

Add 18 g at 12 o'clock you will have a 12.7 oz racket with a swing weight of 399.

OK, I did some measurements (and I hope this makes sense... :-?), but the length from the butt cap to the where my lead tape that I have on there right now about 17.5 inches (45 mm) to about 22.5 inches (57 mm), about 4 layers of lead tape about 5 inches (12 mm) long. How much lead tape would I have to add to 3 & 9 (OK, that doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me, but maybe you can decipher it for me :shock:).
 
Is that 4 layers of 5" on each side? I assume so.

If these are 1/2" wide lead tapes, then you have 10 grams on each side or a total of 20 g of extra mass added to it. If that is the case, then your racket is about 12.8 oz and had a swing weight around 370.

If they are 1/4" lead tapes, then you have a total of 5 grams on each side or a total of 10 g. Then your racket is about 12.5 oz and had a swing weight around 354.


So your 3 and 9 o'clock is about 20" or 51 cm (it is cm, not mm) from the butt cap. If that is right, then here it is

You would need to add 35 g (total) to the 3 and 9 o'clock to make it even balance. That would make it a 13.3 oz racket with a swing weight of 396.
 
Is that 4 layers of 5" on each side? I assume so.

If these are 1/2" wide lead tapes, then you have 10 grams on each side or a total of 20 g of extra mass added to it. If that is the case, then your racket is about 12.8 oz and had a swing weight around 370.

If they are 1/4" lead tapes, then you have a total of 5 grams on each side or a total of 10 g. Then your racket is about 12.5 oz and had a swing weight around 354.


So your 3 and 9 o'clock is about 20" or 51 cm (it is cm, not mm) from the butt cap. If that is right, then here it is

You would need to add 35 g (total) to the 3 and 9 o'clock to make it even balance. That would make it a 13.3 oz racket with a swing weight of 396.

Awesome, just totally awesome (whoops, mm, cm, all well...)! Thanks a lot!
 
Simple Instructions

1. Obtain a wooden dowel and a postal scale (displays grams and ounces). Weigh racquet. Record weight on paper.

2. Figure out how much additional weight is required for your particular setup.

3. If the racquet weighs 12.1 oz strung, you require .9 oz. of lead to achieve a 13.0 oz. weight. That is approx. 25 grams.

4. Determine the width of the lead tape you will use. 1/4" wide weighs 1 gram per 4" of length (according to TW and the lead tape they stock).

5. For this example, You'll need 100" (or 25 grams) of tape.

6. Assuming you place it at 3/9... each side of the racquet will have 50" of 1/4" lead tape.

7. Each face of each side of the racquet will have 25" of tape.

8. Since a 25" length of lead tape seems too long, you'll have to layer the tape and use shorter lengths.

9. For this example, you'll need 4 layers of tape 6.25" long (on each face) (of each side) of the racquet (16 x 6.25" = 100").

10. Cut 16 pieces of 6.25" lengths from the lead tape roll.

**NOW**

11. The middle (or theoretical point of even balance) of the racquet is 13.5" from either end (27" / 2). If you have an extended racquet, take that into consideration. A 28" racquet would be 14" from head and 14" from butt.

12. Measure and put a piece of tape (or a small dot with a permanent marker) on your racquet at 13.5" from either end. *Again, this is the point at which the racquet SHOULD balance when evenly weighted*

13. Place the racquet on the dowel at the point where the tape was used to mark 13.5". *note: it will settle with the handle (or butt) on the table*

14. Place (do not stick) 8 pieces of the 6.25" long lead at 9 o'clock and 8 pieces at 3 o'clock. The racquet should start to shift as more weight is added.

15. If the racquet shifts where the head is now touching the table, you have to fiddle with the weight since your racquet is now head heavy.

16. Move the lead strips toward the butt or head (depending on the results from #15) and determine if it's possible to balance it evenly with the parameters you desire (13 oz. total/even balance/weight at 3/9 only). *It may not be possible*

17. If it's not possible, remove (1) 6.25" strip from each side and experiment with placing those at various locations until the racket is balancing on the dowel. Keep in mind that each face and each side of the racquet must have the same amount of weight. This may require cutting a couple of the 6.25" lead strips in half or in quarters.

18. It's nothing but trial and error and there are many variables (stock racquet weight varies, grip weight... leather/synthetic varies, dampener weight, string weight, head tape weight, etc.) No one here can evenly balance your racquet at 13.0 oz., over the Internet, by giving you exact instruction on where to place the weight.

... See how simple that was! :twisted:
 
It's almost certainly pointless to use published specs in an attempt to modify a racquet to reach a specific weight, balance, and/or swingweight target. If you cannot get starting measurements for each of these aspects, you might as well just add lead tape to the frame wherever you want and see how you like it. All these calculations may be relevant to some racquet, but I'll bet they are not relevant to your racquet.
 
I think the OP was just curious about this and that is why he said "just to see what it would be like".

It did end up with a monster stick.
 
It's almost certainly pointless to use published specs in an attempt to modify a racquet to reach a specific weight, balance, and/or swingweight target. If you cannot get starting measurements for each of these aspects, you might as well just add lead tape to the frame wherever you want and see how you like it. All these calculations may be relevant to some racquet, but I'll bet they are not relevant to your racquet.

I disagree. My method will work on any racquet 8)

... but then again, my post isn't about published specs. It's a procedure to customize the weight/balance of any stick :razz:
 
It's almost certainly pointless to use published specs in an attempt to modify a racquet to reach a specific weight, balance, and/or swingweight target. If you cannot get starting measurements for each of these aspects, you might as well just add lead tape to the frame wherever you want and see how you like it. All these calculations may be relevant to some racquet, but I'll bet they are not relevant to your racquet.

I'd already leaded my racquet when I first got it so that it would be 12.1 oz (balance too).

swinging tht racket will be like tryin to swing Mirka

LOL! :twisted:

That's what she said... :twisted:

LOL (2)! :oops:

I disagree. My method will work on any racquet.

... but then again, my post isn't about published specs. It's a procedure to customize the weight/balance of any stick.

It will work on any racquet, and I thank you! :idea:
 
Sorry. I didn't realize that TW had measured your racquet for you! When you wrote "courtesy of TW," I assumed you were referring to the published specs because you had no means of measuring your own racquet.
 
It's almost certainly pointless to use published specs in an attempt to modify a racquet to reach a specific weight, balance, and/or swingweight target. If you cannot get starting measurements for each of these aspects, you might as well just add lead tape to the frame wherever you want and see how you like it. All these calculations may be relevant to some racquet, but I'll bet they are not relevant to your racquet.

I disagree. My method will work on any racquet 8)

... but then again, my post isn't about published specs. It's a procedure to customize the weight/balance of any stick :razz:

What, exactly, do you “disagree” with?

Greg’s point was that you have to measure the initial specs, not just assume that the racquet has the same specs as the published specs (like the OP was obviously doing), since there’s such a large range/tolerance.

That’s exactly what you said to do as well--measure (scale, dowel, etc.). :oops:

Do you “disagree” with yourself? :-?
 
What, exactly, do you “disagree” with?

Greg’s point was that you have to measure the initial specs, not just assume that the racquet has the same specs as the published specs (like the OP was obviously doing), since there’s such a large range/tolerance.

That’s exactly what you said to do as well--measure (scale, dowel, etc.). :oops:

Do you “disagree” with yourself? :-?

Lol. No, I misinterpreted his verbiage. I agree with him. 8-) Although. he could have just stated... Bud has it correct and saved all the typing :)
 
Thanks for the reply. Is there anyway to do this if I am putting lead at 3 & 9 exclusively?

Not at 3 and 9... but You could, but not real easilly add all the weight around the throat slightly above the balance point.

In reality, best to distribute the weight between head, neck, and grip.

Effectively, you need to add about a full ounce slightly above the balance point, but it will be tough to ensure right placement. Use a balance bar and lay the lead tape on the frame and adjust the balance. might need a little under the grip.

swing weight will suck w/ this setup though. BUT, it's fastest and easiest to get to 13oz and 0 HL. Have fun.
 
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Not at 3 and 9... but You could, but not real easilly add all the weight around the throat slightly above the balance point.

In reality, best to distribute the weight between head, neck, and grip.

Effectively, you need to add about a full ounce slightly above the balance point, but it will be tough to ensure right placement. Use a balance bar and lay the lead tape on the frame and adjust the balance. might need a little under the grip.

swing weight will suck w/ this setup though. BUT, it's fastest and easiest to get to 13oz and 0 HL. Have fun.

Lol, thanks. We'll see how this goes. I'll report what it was like in about 2 weeks (when all my equipment has come and I have gotten a chance to hit).
 
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