Need Help Figuring Out this Problem!

Discussion in 'Racquets' started by Blitzball, Nov 14, 2012.

  1. Blitzball

    Blitzball Professional

    Jan 18, 2012
    So, I recently purchased the new Dunlop F3.0 Tour racquet from TW. I loved my Biomimetic 300 Tour so I took a chance on buying it without demoing it first. Well, I took it out on the court and played pretty well. I was somewhat disappointed by the liveliness of the racquet, but it wasn't something I couldn't adapt to. Then the tension on my Gamma Zo Verve 17g strings started dropping and my game went to garbage-- and mind you, this was maybe an hour into my hitting session. The next day, I played against my friend who is 3.5-4.0 like me, and I served incredibly well, though he out-rallied me 70% of the time, which pissed me off. After our match, we continued hitting and I decided to use my Bio 300 Tour for comparison-- my serve slowed a bit, but my control and overall baseline performance improved drastically with my old stick! I didn't realize how big a difference there is ebtween the old model and new one; it's like comparing BLX Blade to Aero Pro Drive! I'm starting to hate the whippiness of the F3.0 Tour because I love the solid control of the Bio so much. It fit my game perfectly and now my forehand is very inconsistent and prone to error, and I resort to slicing my backhand far too often. So the problem arises: I like the way I play with my old stick more, so how can I customize my F3.0 Tour, with it's whippy maneuvarability, to make it perform the way I did with my Bio 300 tour? I don't want to add too much weight, so I'd like to keep it under 11.9oz, but I already tried adding lead tape to the 10 and 2o'clock to little avail. Should I put the tape at the 12 instead? Maybe get a heavier grip and lead tape?

    Also, I might be blaming the F3.0 Tour too much for poor groundstrokes when I should be focusing on making a complete transition; even then, I'd still be in the dilemma of having two very different sticks in the same bag at a tournament in case one breaks during play. And I'd like to mention I've already ordered some Cyclone and Cyclone Tour 16g (which I've yet to try out) to hopefully address the control and liveliness issue with the F3.0 Tour, but I'm not sure if that'll help much.
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012
  2. MikeHitsHard93

    MikeHitsHard93 Hall of Fame

    Oct 12, 2011
    Adding lead tape is going to add power. So, if you want less power, take off the lead tape. You may have to just string tighter.
  3. Xonemains

    Xonemains Semi-Pro

    Feb 25, 2012
    it just takes longer to adjust sometimes, keep at it.

    trying different strings will help too:)
  4. LeeD

    LeeD Bionic Poster

    Dec 28, 2008
    East side of San Francisco Bay
    You said it worked fine before the tension dropped.
    What was the original tension? Maybe it was too low.
    Probably a problem with confidence more than anything else. Calm your mind, go out and hit again.
    The stiffness and the weight is too similar for such a huge problem. And if you're slicing instead of topspinning strokes, it's a mental problem.
    But tension is one thing you left out, especially since you think it dropped after one hour of hitting.
  5. buffalobill3

    buffalobill3 Rookie

    Feb 19, 2008
    I've played with the 4D 300 tour and just started playing with the F 3.0 tour. I get a little more power with a hair less control with F 3.0 I have better spin and feel with the F 3.0, very good on touch too. I have the F 3.0 strung with a cheap $3.00 syn and it plays really nice for me.

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