Next racket?

[Tiglon]

I've been playing tennis for about a year, 40 years old, pretty fit and played a bit when I was younger, but only casually. Apologies, this is going to be quite long...

I have 4 rackets, and none of them quite do it for me, so I'm looking for help deciding which direction to go in next, or at least what kind of racket might suit me. It's not that I think a different racket will make me better, just that I feel I don't quite have the one that suits me best, yet.

I like to be aggressive, and have a good clean swing and follow through. I use plenty of top spin, but enjoy hitting flat when I get a short ball and love a bit of slice too. One handed backhand, because.... Roger.

Current rackets are:
- Babolat Pure Drive 2021(?) (Babolat recommended strings at 52, i think its xcel and rpm blast) Chosen after testing this and Head Speed MP, just felt like I rallied better with the PD. Love the extra depth when on the back foot, but it's too much sometimes, feel like I have to hold back, and serves often go long.
- Head Gravity MP L... wanted to try something lighter but ended up adding lead, didn't use it much and probably worth revisiting.
- Wilson Pro Staff X V14 (Luxilon 4g soft @ 50).... like the colour and always liked Wilson as a brand. Absolutely love serving with this, so much pop on flat serves and feels very accurate as well. Just can't seem to get much spin on it which is a huge issue for me.
- Volkl V-Cell 10 300g (Head Lynx Tour @ 50)... played with this one the most, great control, good spin, serves are accurate but often drop into the net if I don't put everything into it, and groundstrokes drop short if I don't put 100% into the shot. Feels like the sweet spot is small so any slight inaccuracy results in the weakest imaginable result and an easy winner for my opponent. I'm not sure I'm good enough yet to get the best out of it consistently.

I'd love a racket that serves like the PSX, has control and feel like the Volkl, but more power although not as much as the PD, and more spin than the PD.

I wonder if the weight of the PSX (15g more than the others) makes the serving feel stronger, but makes it harder to get good head speed to generate top spin? The PD is a perfect racket if I'm feeling lazy, it does all the work for you, but it's just a bit too much for me and feels unnecessary. I don't think it encourages good habits in me either.

I'm looking at demoing a Yonex Ezone (not sure if 98 or 100 yet, I feel like the 100 might have the same drawbacks as the PD) and maybe something very spin focused like a Babolat Pure Aero, as I've never tried a spin racket. I'm also very intrigued by the Heysel 100 Tour and the NordicDots 100. Obviously can't demo those though.

I'd really welcome any advice. It's not so much "tell me which racket to use" but more that I'm looking for the goldilocks racket for me and may need help understanding which specs of each racket are giving the qualities I enjoy and the drawbacks that I don't. E.g. the PSX is the heaviest but also the most head light, is it one of those specs that helps my serve? Or both? Or neither? Should I focus on strings more than racket?

 

[jimmy8]

Try a Wilson Shift 99 300. 99 sqin head is forgiving. Has good power, but not too much. Has great spin, it's a spin racket. Has very good control. It is very maneuverable and whippy which will enable you to serve fast with racket head speed. It is stable due to new technology.

 

[socallefty]

One handed backhand, because.... Roger.

always liked Wilson as a brand.

RF01?

 

[tele]

Whatever you decide on, be careful with comfort. I am assuming you are still working on developing proper fundamental technique, which makes you more vulnerable to wrist and elbow injuries. Do not keep a full bed of dead poly in your racquets.

 

[mmazzini1]

Those racquets cannot be more different one from each other....being a beginner, i will put aside players racquets and i will focus on easy forgiving racquets from 99 above, 300g. I actually think the PD 21 is a good choice, but i would just play it full multi and work on the dynamic of the strokes and grow with it. Why hybrid at your level, and with the blast? No need in my opinion.

 

[Trip]

Hi @Tiglon - Welcome to TT. Considering where you're at, I think there's a net-breakover value on only putting so much effort into matching the perfect frame to you and your game, as it sounds like you're very much still in the learning phase, but that being said, I will at least answer what you asked for, then give further recommendations as to the most practical way forward, at least from the sounds of it.

First off, a quick explanation about each frame what why it's exhibiting what you noticed:

- Pure Drive - The extra easy depth and power comes primarily from having such a high power-to-weight ratio, mainly from the combo of a relatively thick (23-26-23mm) beam, elliptical beam shape (more explosive and dimensionally rigid vs boxier beams) and firm flex (usually upper-60's and higher RA), especially around the areas of ball impact (ie. in the hoop), as well as a medium-open 16x19 pattern (more open patterns tend to give you more trampoline and explosive rebound, all other things held equal); but the very things that make it so powerful can also make it tough to control, as you experienced. The challenge with the PD and similar, then, is learning to control them with proper mechanics. And for many players, it can be done, it just takes time and commitment. As for the string setup, I think a hybrid with a Pure Drive actually may not be too bad of an idea, but if you do so, IMHO you want to put the higher-power, non-poly string in the mains, and the lower-powered/slicker/poly (or poly-like) string in the crosses, for better comfort and easier pop, still with adequate control (you can just string higher for more control if needed, and the comfort should still be there).

- Gravity MP-L - A "light" class frame for sure (280g unstrung, 308sw strung average), that honestly is going to need a bit of weight to be as playable as the others, and without previous experience of having "been there, done that" with customization, I would probably steer you clear of this frame, at least from being your main go-to. As a fun side project to learn how to customize or as a loaner for someone smaller/slighter, sure, maybe; otherwise, I would probably flip it, or put it aside.

- Pro Staff X - Basically an upsized Pro Staff 97 with higher twist weight (ie. the weight required to twist the racquet about its lengthwise axis) and a more open pattern. Great on flatter, plow-ier strokes, such as flat serves (as you noticed), more through-the-court ground stroke mechanics and big blocking motions, but also can be a bit of a bear for some to wield, including getting easier spin on as you noticed, as the somewhat-weighty and larger circumference hoop with 15+ twist weight can make it more difficult to twist and/or whip the racquet face. I would say, unless you're fairly tall and brutishly strong, it might be best to leave the PS X on the sidelines for the time being.

- V-Cell 10 300 - A lightweight but still slightly more advanced control frame, with fairly dense center main strings, which give it above-average precision and control when hitting more flat and through the ball, but who's fairly light stock swing weight / hitting weight are the cause of exactly what you noticed with the lack of depth and power. It also didn't help that you had Lynx Tour in there, a fairly low powered poly, at 50 lbs, making it even lower-powered. This racquet might be usable for you, but in order to make it so, you'd probably have to either 1) string it with a way bouncier, more powerful and more forgiving string setup (ie. a powerful hybrid, or, probably better still for your level, a full bed of multi or even synthetic gut). If you were to want to play it with more firm/lower powered string bed, such as a lower-powered hybrid or full poly, first off, I wouldn't recommend that for someone at your level, but if you did it anyways, second off, you'd probably have/want to add a bit of hoop lead, so you didn't have to swing out of your socks to overcome such a low-powered string bed. In any event, it would probably take at least a noticeably higher-powered string setup to make the V-Cell 10 300 usable enough for you, but it sounds like that may be worth trying, if you like it enough.

All in all, if you had to pick one of the above racquets to move forward with, in reality, if we go by the book of what most would probably tell you, it would be the Pure Drive, simply based on the premise that, for the modern game at least, it's almost always better for most players, especially newer players, to learn to control a power frame, versus trying to power a control frame and/or make an overly demanding one more forgiving. On the flip side, though, I can certainly see the draw towards the V-Cell, in that it may let you be more aggressive (even if your mechanics are not quite yet optimized enough to do so most effectively). So maybe make those two your main A-vs-B comparison for now, and like I said above, experiment with strings, which can be manipulated by changing material, gauge and tension, to vastly alter the mount of power, control and spin. Before trying, let alone buying, anything else, I think you should at least start with a few different string trials.

Beyond that, I could suggest a few split-the-difference type frames that would address most of the concerns you've voiced, but for now, I think it may only add more unnecessary pieces to the puzzle, at least until you've had a few string jobs and more court hours under your belt. After that, perhaps come back with more thoughts, and you find yourself still coming back to shortcomings of the frames themselves, perhaps then we can talk other ones to look at. I don't mean to hold out on you in that sense, but actually I do, only for your own good.

Hope some of that helps. Any further questions or thoughts, feel free.

 

[Tiglon]

Thank you for all the replies, they're incredibly helpful!

The RF01 would be perfect aesthetically and would make me very happy in theory, but everything i read about it suggests it's just not right for me.

The PD strings were chosen because that was the recommendation I found from Babolat. I've done a lot of research on rackets, but probably nowhere near enough on strings to properly understand them.

It makes sense that the PD is the best racket for me while learning, but I worry it is encouraging me to be lazy with my swings as it's so easy just to push the ball onto the baseline.

Agree that PSX is not the right one for me. I played with it for a few months and when I went back to the Volkl a coach instantly said stop switching around and stick with the Volkl, you're hitting the ball much better with it. I'm not especially strong, very slim build, so the weight is probably too much at this point.... as much fun as the serves are!

Experimenting with strings sounds a logical next step. To be honest I choices the Lynx Tour because they were available in orange which I thought was fun with the yellow frame. I know, I know. I'm sure I googled them before committing, but when I do that now I find the same low power comments as above.

I will get the PD and Volkl restrung based on recommendations above and see how they feel. I'm still worried the Volkl sweet spot is too small for me at my current level, but let's see, I do love a lot about the frame (and I like to be different so it makes me happier to use that than feeling like a bit of a sheep with one of the more common brands). Multifilament on both to keep it simple? Is 50lbs a sensible tension? Or lower for the Volkl and higher for the PD?

I may try out a Shift 99 as well, there are some great deals on them here at the moment and I'm lucky that I can afford to play around with new rackets.

In terms of shot mechanics I'm doing pretty well on the forehand, even with the Volkl I can dominate a point with deep, controlled shots, but it's sometimes exhausting due to the sheer level of concentration and physical exertion required! I think just a bit more help from the racket would make a big difference. Obviously continuing to work on my technique will make more of a difference.

Thanks again for all the tips and advice!

 

[mmazzini1]

A modern multi in the 53/49 range, gauge 16/1.30, is always a good choice at your current level. If available, try the Babolat Xalt 16 on your PD21, 51 mains/ 49 crosses, 4 knots of course. It will do well.

 

[Trip]

@Tiglon - Nice take-aways. Replies to all the pieces below:

The RF01 would be perfect aesthetically and would make me very happy in theory, but everything i read about it suggests it's just not right for me.

Indeed. While the RF01 can be a good training tool on precision ball striking, there are probably better choices for overall playability for where you're at right now and in the near-term future. I would say, perhaps table it for a fun demo hit at some point down the line, but I wouldn't rush to pursue it, if that makes sense.

The PD strings were chosen because that was the recommendation I found from Babolat. I've done a lot of research on rackets, but probably nowhere near enough on strings to properly understand them.
It makes sense that the PD is the best racket for me while learning, but I worry it is encouraging me to be lazy with my swings as it's so easy just to push the ball onto the baseline.

No worries on initial string choice. Have to start somewhere. Xcel/RPM is actually not a horrible combo, though for where you're at, I think something with a bit more inherent pop, that is more controllable and comfortable by just ratcheting up the tension, might be a bit better fit. As @mmazzinin1 suggested, I would see if your local shop has Babolat Xalt, which is a lower-powered multi, and simply try a full bed of that, at perhaps the same tension as where you had Xcel/RPM, or maybe 1-2 lbs higher. If you need to reign in depth a bit more, I would simply increase tension steps of 1-2 pounds at a time, while also working on your timing and technique to learn to control the Pure Drive. To lower the power even a bit more, you could keep Xalt in the mains, and cross it with a soft but lower-power slick poly, something like IsoSpeed Cream or similar, which provides almost a similar level of control as RPM, but in a softer form with better pocketing.

Agree that PSX is not the right one for me. I played with it for a few months and when I went back to the Volkl a coach instantly said stop switching around and stick with the Volkl, you're hitting the ball much better with it. I'm not especially strong, very slim build, so the weight is probably too much at this point.... as much fun as the serves are!

Yeah. I think that's all the extra info needed to confirm that the PS X may not be the best choice. Maybe keep it around as a fun "heritage" hit every nor and then, or just sell it while it's still new enough.

Experimenting with strings sounds a logical next step. To be honest I choices the Lynx Tour because they were available in orange which I thought was fun with the yellow frame. I know, I know. I'm sure I googled them before committing, but when I do that now I find the same low power comments as above.

Again, no harm in trying Lynx Tour @ 50. Often times there's no better way to learn what's best than going a little too far in one direction or the other, even if it's not intended. For the V-Cell, like I said, I think you're probably going to want to start with a full bed of zero-poly, such as Xcel, another multi, or even a top quality syn gut like Prince Lightning Pro, strung at mid-tension recommended on the frame, and go from there. I think you'll find the power output much more appropriate.

I will get the PD and Volkl restrung based on recommendations above and see how they feel. I'm still worried the Volkl sweet spot is too small for me at my current level, but let's see, I do love a lot about the frame (and I like to be different so it makes me happier to use that than feeling like a bit of a sheep with one of the more common brands). Multifilament on both to keep it simple? Is 50lbs a sensible tension? Or lower for the Volkl and higher for the PD?

Sounds like a good plan, and see my stringing recommendations above for good starting points.

I may try out a Shift 99 as well, there are some great deals on them here at the moment and I'm lucky that I can afford to play around with new rackets.

The Shift is an interesting frame, a dual-flex cutting-edge (at least in theory) design that's really aimed at those with well-developed modern stroke mechanics, looking to push the envelop on level of spin attainable from a semi-dense, sub-100" tweener/pleener. With all due respect, that doesn't sound like quite where you're at yet. But, you're welcome to try it. Just realize, it's a different beast, and will likely take a fair amount of time to get fully figured out. I think it may be best left for a later "iteration" of you as a player.

In terms of shot mechanics I'm doing pretty well on the forehand, even with the Volkl I can dominate a point with deep, controlled shots, but it's sometimes exhausting due to the sheer level of concentration and physical exertion required! I think just a bit more help from the racket would make a big difference. Obviously continuing to work on my technique will make more of a difference.

Yeah, it sounds like you'd definitely a higher-power, bouncier, more explosive string setup on the V-Cell, for sure, as much as you would a lower-powered setup on the Pure Drive. Do both, get some solid court hours with each, and then come back and share more thoughts!

Hope that helps again!

 

[AmericanTwist]

OP you have discovered the differences in flex among all the frames you have. Acknowledge that string material and tension count for a lot in your perception of frame performance. Ideally, you should string all at mid tension with solid core syn gut to compare. i recommend that you try frames 60-66ra while trying to keep the strings the same if possible. What most people should play with is a well balanced frame (some power some softness/spin) and then fine tune with strings.

For the pros I think they play with the softest frame that they can still hit with good power with. Others play with the most powerful frame that they can still control. However, I still see a lot of babolat frames on the tour. Watch those returns of serve and how some pros have trouble with stiff frames. Playing with a stiff frame is double edged sword (that can also include injury).

As you demo frames see which flex RA number suits you best. Pick 97-100" sized frames.

 

[Tiglon]

Thanks again, really helpful.

I've put them both in for Xalt 1.30, it will be interesting to feel the differences between the rackets with the same strings. I also accidentally picked up a 2025 Ezone 100 to demo while I was there....

If the weather holds out then I'll be doing some hitting on Monday morning.

 

[jimmy8]

Thanks again, really helpful.

I've put them both in for Xalt 1.30, it will be interesting to feel the differences between the rackets with the same strings. I also accidentally picked up a 2025 Ezone 100 to demo while I was there....

If the weather holds out then I'll be doing some hitting on Monday morning.

I like the accidental pick up, lol.

 

[Tiglon]

I've also been reading a bit more about string longevity. I'm sure when I started I read that they should be changed as many times per year as you play in a week. Now I'm reading poly strings last 5-10 hours max, and multi maybe 10 hours. So I need to be restringing at least every two weeks?! The Lynx Tour had probably done 50-100 hours on the Volkl

 

[tele]

I've also been reading a bit more about string longevity. I'm sure when I started I read that they should be changed as many times per year as you play in a week. Now I'm reading poly strings last 5-10 hours max, and multi maybe 10 hours. So I need to be restringing at least every two weeks?! The Lynx Tour had probably done 50-100 hours on the Volkl

you can play multi safely until it breaks

 

[jimmy8]

I've also been reading a bit more about string longevity. I'm sure when I started I read that they should be changed as many times per year as you play in a week. Now I'm reading poly strings last 5-10 hours max, and multi maybe 10 hours. So I need to be restringing at least every two weeks?! The Lynx Tour had probably done 50-100 hours on the Volkl

The strings will:
1. lose tension
2. notch
3. lose elasticity
4. lose the slippery coating that allows it to slide against each other, essential for spin

Then your arm and shoulder will start to feel the pain of not having fresh strings. I string every 8-10 hours of play or 2 weeks, whichever comes first. If you want to push it, I wouldn't go more than a month and a half without getting new strings. And this is for poly or multi or a hybrid.

 

[tele]

The strings will:
1. lose tension
2. notch
3. lose elasticity
4. lose the slippery coating that allows it to slide against each other, essential for spin

Then your arm and shoulder will start to feel the pain of not having fresh strings. I string every 8-10 hours of play or 2 weeks, whichever comes first. If you want to push it, I wouldn't go more than a month and a half without getting new strings. And this is for poly or multi or a hybrid.

you get arm and shoulder pain from 1.5 month old multi?

 

[jimmy8]

you get arm and shoulder pain from 1.5 month old multi?

Yes, not as much as hybrid or poly, but still not comfortable to have 1-4 from the list above. Plus playability is not good from having 1-4.

 

[Tiglon]

Is the arm and shoulder pain worse than the financial pain of spending near enough £1,000 a year on restrings? I mean, I've been playing 5 hours a week with the same poly strings since December (apart from a month or two with a different racket) and my arm is fine. Or at least, no worse than it was in December!

 

[jimmy8]

Is the arm and shoulder pain worse than the financial pain of spending near enough £1,000 a year on restrings? I mean, I've been playing 5 hours a week with the same poly strings since December (apart from a month or two with a different racket) and my arm is fine. Or at least, no worse than it was in December!

It will come on suddenly. Surgery will cost thousands (or you might have insurance that covers all or most of it). Surgery will cost you many months of recovery.

You could buy a stringing machine like I did. Buy used, half off, like I did.

 

[tele]

Is the arm and shoulder pain worse than the financial pain of spending near enough £1,000 a year on restrings? I mean, I've been playing 5 hours a week with the same poly strings since December (apart from a month or two with a different racket) and my arm is fine. Or at least, no worse than it was in December!

if you try multi, I suggest tecnifibre multifeel black or hdmx. both do a good job snapping back until they are close to breaking, at least In the relatively dense patterns I have used them in. I think you will find them arm friendly until they break

 

[fuzz nation]

I've also been reading a bit more about string longevity. I'm sure when I started I read that they should be changed as many times per year as you play in a week. Now I'm reading poly strings last 5-10 hours max, and multi maybe 10 hours. So I need to be restringing at least every two weeks?! The Lynx Tour had probably done 50-100 hours on the Volkl

Is the arm and shoulder pain worse than the financial pain of spending near enough £1,000 a year on restrings? I mean, I've been playing 5 hours a week with the same poly strings since December (apart from a month or two with a different racket) and my arm is fine. Or at least, no worse than it was in December!

Stop the insanity and dump all that poly string right away. You've got a developing game, your arm is beyond the relatively elastic and resilient phase of your late teens to mid twenties, and that string will only take liveliness away from any racquet you use. That means that it's literally working against you and also transmitting more impact shock into your arm.

Poly string can be an option for some - not all - players who have huge games and can consistently take enormous cuts at the ball with mechanics that they've developed over years of work that generally include high level coaching. Those players essentially have more power than they need for the shots they're producing, so the poly can help them to tilt the balance from raw power toward a little extra control. Many of these killers are college level or hopefuls on track for that level of play and beyond.

Many of us mere mortals don't swing at speeds fast enough where poly strings can actually bend and perform as intended... but that's okay. Multifibers and synthetic guts are still ideal performers for a lot of serious players and they generally don't bring nearly as rough of a ride for our arms. I'm a big-time advocate of syn. gut and use it in my own frames all the time. It performs great and it's more affordable than pretty much anything else around. Syn. guts are also not all the same; some are more stiff and durable, some are moderately soft, and a couple are nearly as soft as multifibers (see Forten Sweet). Syn. guts don't typically degrade as we use them like more pricey multifibers can and they also retain some resilience right up until they snap.

I've been a Volkl player for a lot of years and that V Cell you've got definitely has some potential. A more appropriate string could quickly improve that frame's personality for you, but don't be shy about also doing a little of your own tuning with perhaps some lead tape. Just a few grams total at 3/9 o'clock could be all you need to steady up the head just a little bit and make the sweet spot of that racquet feel easier to find. I still have a pair of older Volkl Organix 10's that were so-so for me at first, but when I tuned mine with a little lead, they absolutely came to life for me.

Tuning with lead tape is an easy option because it's easy to adjust or leave in place if you get it right, but you can also just peel it off and go back to your stock layout if it doesn't help you out. Remember that if you put a little weight up on the hoop of that racquet, it may feel more steady through contact, but it may also feel a little more sluggish. If that's the case, you can also try counter-balancing where you add several grams to your handle so that the frame's balance point moves back a little closer to your gripping hand. No guarantees that this will help with that particular racquet, but it's certainly worth a try.

 

[Tiglon]

Thanks for all the further advice!

Interestingly, the Ezone I have on demo is strung with Yonex Poly Tour Pro, and I used it this morning to win a set against my regular hitting partner who I have played 40+ sets against and previously lost every single one of them. I don't think that was down to the racket, I was just more consistent than I have been previously and less eager to go for winners too soon in the rallies, but it does suggest that polys aren't necessarily bad for my game. My arm still feels fine too. Worth noting that I didn't miss a single back hand, with my one hander usually being a little erratic - it felt great on that shot with easy top spin. Zero double faults as well. The Ezone is definitely on the shortlist, perhaps it's the sweet spot for me between the other two, but I'll need to play with the PD and Volkl on their fresh strings before committing.

If I am going to use polys again I clearly need to restring much more often - I do remember the Volkl having a really unique sensation on contact when new, which I loved, but thinking about it that was no longer there more recently. I've got a saved search on the auction site for a stringing machine, and there is a Stringway MS200 up for a sensible price that I'm keeping my eye on.