non-poly, non−gut mains/smooth poly crosses review thread

I'm stringing up a paired test of Gosen AK Control 1.24 mains with ReString Sync 1.25 and (probably) Orbitour Silver in a Shift 99 300, but I was struck by how potent the smell of the Gosen string is. It actually reminded me of phenol, which I use regularly for work, but is likely formaldehyde (which is what my GF thought it was) used during manufacturing, according to brief search. Otherwise, very soft and slippery feeling and had a nice, non-pingy sound when bouncing a ball on it.
 
I'm stringing up a paired test of Gosen AK Control 1.24 mains with ReString Sync 1.25 and (probably) Orbitour Silver in a Shift 99 300, but I was struck by how potent the smell of the Gosen string is. It actually reminded me of phenol, which I use regularly for work, but is likely formaldehyde (which is what my GF thought it was) used during manufacturing, according to brief search. Otherwise, very soft and slippery feeling and had a nice, non-pingy sound when bouncing a ball on it.
ak control has a polyurethane coating, which might be the smell. I have another gosen string with a polyurethane coating that has the same strong odor as ak control. Ak pro, on tje other hand, has a different coating, and iirc, does not smell so strongly
 
What is the durability of such setups? Shorter than full be multi I assume? Considering to try RIP Control/Swift but full bed RIP already breaks very fast...
 
What is the durability of such setups? Shorter than full be multi I assume? Considering to try RIP Control/Swift but full bed RIP already breaks very fast...
I have never used rip control or swift , but cream, which is supposed to be very similar to swift, is pretty easy on the mains for a poly IME. I would not expect better durability than a full bed of rip, but it might not be that much worse. If you do try it, please share your results.
 
Do you string it at the same tension as YPTP?
I tend to end up stringing GT3 about 5% higher, as GT3 1.23 is about 10% softer in dynamic stiffness versus PTP Yellow 1.25, but it plays somewhat firm, so I take the middle ground, at least for starters.

That said, it will usually still perform well enough at the same tension as PTP, and often times, there's no better way to demonstrate the stiffness/power difference than stringing at the same tension, so you could also do that as well.
 
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i have been trying some non-poly strings in the past months.

- I started with a full bed of Velocity MLT (1.30) at 24kg, felt good at the beginning but become too springy too fast and the string were all over the place after some good shot

- Moved to head synt gut ppt (1.25)/ head hawk (1.25) 24kg/23kg worked i tried this because that's what i had. It worked OK, snap back wasn't very good. but i liked the power. I broke it in around 8 hour

- Now i'm testing triax (1.33) /ceam (1.28) 23kg/22kg snap back seems great and great feeling on dropshots, but this combo seems quite a bit more powerfull compared to ppt/hawk and the sweet spot feel a little bit smaller. I'll play until the break and see if i just need to get use to this new combo but i think i will string the next racket 1kg higher.

Does triax needs higher racket head speed to work well? some shots seems to have great top spin while other just fly off, i didn't notice this extremes on ppt/hawk.
 
What is the durability of such setups? Shorter than full be multi I assume? Considering to try RIP Control/Swift but full bed RIP already breaks very fast...
Played RIP 16/Swift 16 @ 26/24kg today side by side with full bed RIP @ 26kg today. The hybrid with Swift feels comfortable (but compared to full bed -), control ++, spin + and snapback +++. Played the hybrid approx 40 minutes and have some notching going. Likely the durability is going to be roughly the same as full bed RIP (approx 2.5 hours) Although still very short this might be my combo. But next week I report further.
 
Played RIP 16/Swift 16 @ 26/24kg today side by side with full bed RIP @ 26kg today. The hybrid with Swift feels comfortable (but compared to full bed -), control ++, spin + and snapback +++. Played the hybrid approx 40 minutes and have some notching going. Likely the durability is going to be roughly the same as full bed RIP (approx 2.5 hours) Although still very short this might be my combo. But next week I report further.

RIP / Multifeel black works great for me. MF will fray, but good snapback.
 
Has anyone here tried using Babolat Xalt or Addixion+ (not original Addixion) in the mains with a poly cross?
 
Mate, you're the one who needs to educate yourself if you talk to people with disrespectful assumptions like that. I was joking around.

I know it's not the same because I've tried multiple setups of both and lowering the tension was always better (for me) than including any multifilament, no matter how far I lowered the tension.

Why don't you educate me on what your issue was when you tried low tension poly
No problem if you are joking but at least add something meaningful to the thread. Share your experiences good or bad instead of nonsense that helps nobody.

What setups and tensions with multi/poly have you tried?

I enjoy playing with multi/poly setups for consistency, feel, and lower trajectory. Multi holds tension better than any poly which means more consistency through the life of the strings. Holds tension better and also allows to string tighter due to the decreased stiffness/construction. I string poly crosses for increased spin and longevity. If tensioned correctly and paired well the spin can rival that of a full poly setup. The downside is decreased durability from the multi which can be improved with the right string choices and tensions. We continue to experiment to find the best setups. I have been stringing these setups for 5+ years now and there’s always more to learn.
 
Man, people will do literally anything to avoid just using lower tension on their poly.
Not really. Poly mains just don't have the feel I want, which is achieved with multi- or synthetic gut. I also don't have trouble generating spin. It's much, much more about snap-back than any other factor, and setups with smooth poly crosses are just the right fit for a lot of us. When my playing partners react in shock at how much spin I can generate with the tiny 18x19 racquet we discussed in your other thread, I'm pretty sure I am on the right track with my string jobs. YMMV, but as long as the strings are sliding, you are maximizing spin.
 
What setups and tensions with multi/poly have you tried?
Too many to remember all of them but certainly including Babolat Synthetic Gut (with Weiss Ultra cable on mains, Wilson Revolve on mains and cross, Monogut on mains and crosses, and full bed), Wilson Sensation, Dynawire, Monopreme, Wilson Revolve spin with Monogut, and HDMX with Wilson Revolve.

The only one that had any playability was HDMX which was extremely expensive and is being discontinued, and the durbaility was much worse than a monofilament because the outer layer eventually wore through exposing the inner fibres.

The rest all had the same issue. After a short time playing, all of the multis had crazy high string friction and got stuck out of place, making the string bed inconsistent. On some shots the ball flies off the strings, and on other shots there is little power and a lot of discomfort, depending on which direction the strings happen to be stretched in relative to the ball's motion prior to impact.

The "low friction" synthetic guts like Babolat's become high friction within an hour, collecting ball fluff and losing their coating.

I suspect one of the reasons they maintain tension better is because the higher friction prevents them from sliding as far on impact with the ball. This is because the only multi that was sliding properly (the HDMX) lost just as much tension as poly when it was in a hybrid, and I chose it for supposedly having the highest tension maintenence of any string. I'm sure it maintains tension well when it's in a full bed because the strings don't have to move far with such a high friction.

Poly loses more tension but all of the multis and multi hybrids lost far more playability over time, even just within the first hour.

The only thing tension loss really does on a poly is change the launch angle and give you *more* power. It can change the string bed consistency, but my hybrids had worse string bed consistency even with supposedly lower tension loss, and you can't easily slide the strings back into place with your fingers like you can with poly. Multis lose not only tension but also lose their ability to snap back into place (if they ever had any), which for me is much worse than tension loss alone, or be extremely expensive and start to fray (HDMX).

You can easily adjust to the power and launch angle of a poly setup changing over time, but you can't easily adjust to the power and launch angle changing randomly on each shot due to the random placement of the strings in the stringbed, which was a much worse problem on most of the hybrid setups.
 
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as long as the strings are sliding, you are maximizing spin.

I'd agree, but none of my multi + mono hybrid setups had great snapback, even at reasonably high tensions that were uncomfortable for me.

The only exception for me has been monogut + poly, because monogut is a monofilament so it basically has the properties of a very powerful poly.

When I combined monogut with babolat syntehtic gut, it immediately become dead because it would no longer slide well, even though Babolat Synthetic Gut is supposedly one of the lowest friction multis.

However, I don't think lack of spin is the main problem. You can generate loads of spin with the right technique on any string setup. The problem for me is stringbed consistency and durability. I can get plenty of spin with multis, but either the amount of spin and power varies wildly from shot to shot due to the strings getting stuck out of place, or if does have great snapback it has terrible durability from the polyester cutting it to shreds.

Poly mains just don't have the feel I want

What's the softest full bed poly setup that you've tried (string and tension)?
 
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Too many to remember all of them but certainly including Babolat Synthetic Gut (with Weiss Ultra cable on mains, Wilson Revolve on mains and cross, Monogut on mains and crosses, and full bed), Wilson Sensation, Dynawire, Wilson Revolve spin with Monogut, and HDMX with Wilson Revolve.

The only one that had any playability was HDMX which was extremely expensive and is being discontinued, and the durbaility was much worse than a monofilament because the outer layer eventually wore through exposing the inner fibres.

The rest all had the same issue. After a hort time playing, most multis including nylon have crazy high string friction and get stuck out of place, making the string bed very inconsistent. On some shots the ball flies off the strings, and on other shots there is little power and a lot of discomfort, depending on which direction the strings happen to be stretched in.

The "low friction" synthetic guts like Babolat's become high friction within an hour, collecting ball fluff and losing their coating.

Poly loses more tension but all of the multis lost far more playability over time.

The only thing tension loss does on a poly is change the launch angle and give you *more* power. But multis will not only lose tension but also lose their ability to snap back into place, or break, which for me is much worse than tension loss alone.
I get what you are saying about the playability. I recently tried X1 multi mains with head hawk crosses and it was terrible. The X1 locked up almost immediately and played erratic. I have played some of the strings you mentioned and did not have good experiences with them. I have never tried HDMX but thought Triax played well as a main. Never liked revolve as a cross due to the tension loss. Most synthetic guts/multis will lock quickly.

The 3 strings I would recommend trying in the mains are head velocity, prince lightning pro, and multifeel black. Velocity might lock up quicker than the other 2 but should still play well. I played velocity/max power for years with good success playing 4.5-5.0 tennis. Lightning pro I have recently tested and find it slightly better than velocity. It will play slicker for longer and should give you more consistency and durability. I haven’t played a multi/synthetic gut that stayed as slick as lightning pro has. Multifeel black I have the least experience with but it seems promising due to staying slick, but many people say durability is not that great. I have only played it in a small head frame so can’t comment yet but plan on playing it in my 95 soon. Hope that helps.
 
Was the poly still too harsh in the low 40s or did you just find it had worse playability than a hybrid?
I cannot really usefully compare the playability, as I have not used a full bed of poly (aside from hitting a few times with the dead poly that came in some of the used racquets I have bought in the years since, which has always felt more harsh, particularly off-center, than the hybrid that replaced it) since injuring my wrist and elbow years ago. I am also a better player than I was then. I remembered liking the spin I got from poly, and that motivated me to try poly crosses after my arm healed. I find I get pretty good spin with the combos I have tried (some definitely less than others as they notch), and I particularly like how HDMX keeps sliding until it breaks.

Does tour bite at low tension keep its playability (i.e. not start getting launchy) for a long time? Also, do the crosses not notch? My goal from the start has been a string setup that offers better spin/control than full bed multi and is something I can play comfortably until I break it. If tour bite 20 at low tension remains comfortable and playable indefinitely, it certainly worth a try (I do like the sensation and performance of nylon mains in the low to high 50s, though). So far, HDMX is working well for me (I have not experienced the same tension issues you did, but it might be that the racquets I use are less tension-sensitive). I was very aware of the tension drop of monogut zx, however, which was powerful at first and then turned my old cx 200 tour into a missile launcher after a couple of sessions.
 
Does tour bite at low tension keep its playability (i.e. not start getting launchy) for a long time? Also, do the crosses not notch? My goal from the start has been a string setup that offers better spin/control than full bed multi and is something I can play comfortably until I break it. If tour bite 20 at low tension remains comfortable and playable indefinitely, it certainly worth a try (I do like the sensation and performance of nylon mains in the low to high 50s, though). So far, HDMX is working well for me (I have not experienced the same tension issues you did, but it might be that the racquets I use are less tension-sensitive). I was very aware of the tension drop of monogut zx, however, which was powerful at first and then turned my old cx 200 tour into a missile launcher after a couple of sessions.

It starts getting launchy and the crosses eventually notch but a multi will notch and break faster. I find a greater reduction in tension something I can more easily compensate for than the issues with hybrids and multis. I'd rather it get launchy than have it get launchy AND have the strings break due to a soft string sliding on a hard one, or have the power and spin be somewhat random on each shot due to the strings not snapping back.

I think Tour Bite 20 is worth a try.

I think it might also be worth trying to find something that works well with monogut on the crosses. I know you've tried monogut already and found it too powerful, but if you find the right tension-maintaining poly to put on the mains and the right string tension, that should be solvable.
 
I get what you are saying about the playability. I recently tried X1 multi mains with head hawk crosses and it was terrible. The X1 locked up almost immediately and played erratic. I have played some of the strings you mentioned and did not have good experiences with them. I have never tried HDMX but thought Triax played well as a main. Never liked revolve as a cross due to the tension loss. Most synthetic guts/multis will lock quickly.

The 3 strings I would recommend trying in the mains are head velocity, prince lightning pro, and multifeel black. Velocity might lock up quicker than the other 2 but should still play well. I played velocity/max power for years with good success playing 4.5-5.0 tennis. Lightning pro I have recently tested and find it slightly better than velocity. It will play slicker for longer and should give you more consistency and durability. I haven’t played a multi/synthetic gut that stayed as slick as lightning pro has. Multifeel black I have the least experience with but it seems promising due to staying slick, but many people say durability is not that great. I have only played it in a small head frame so can’t comment yet but plan on playing it in my 95 soon. Hope that helps.

Thanks mate. At the moment I own some reels of monofilament including Tour Bite 20 and Monogut and I'm happy with combining these at the right tensions. Next time I try something new it will probably be a high tension maintenance co-poly (probably Weiss or Kirschbaum) either as a full bed or on the mains with Monogut or Revolve on the crosses. I don't mind tension loss that much but especially don't mind it on the crosses. As long as it doesn't break and keeps snapping back adequately I can adjust to that. Some tension loss is inevitable with any setup, but I'll look to minimize that with the right co-poly next time I buy something new.
 
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I'd agree, but none of my multi + mono hybrid setups had great snapback, even at reasonably high tensions that were uncomfortable for me.

The only exception for me has been monogut + poly, because monogut is a monofilament so it basically has the properties of a very powerful poly.

When I combined monogut with babolat syntehtic gut, it immediately become dead because it would no longer slide well, even though Babolat Synthetic Gut is supposedly one of the lowest friction multis.

However, I don't think lack of spin is the main problem. You can generate loads of spin with the right technique on any string setup. The problem for me is stringbed consistency and durability. I can get plenty of spin with multis, but either the amount of spin and power varies wildly from shot to shot due to the strings getting stuck out of place, or if does have great snapback it has terrible durability from the polyester cutting it to shreds.



What's the softest full bed poly setup that you've tried (string and tension)?
Our experiences are different, probably because you’re younger and hit the ball harder. I’m not worried about durability. In fact, I started stringing syn-poly because the mains break at the right time.

Current go to setups are:
Babolat Synthetic 16 black, MultiFeel 16 black, or Prince Lightning Pro black mains… and Kirschbaum Proline Evolution 17 crosses.

Plenty of spin, good feel, just right durability, and it all lasts the entire life of the string job.

Never had a pure poly job that didn’t ultimately turn to mush and need to be cut out, and I’ve tried a lot of polys over the years.
 
Played RIP 16/Swift 16 @ 26/24kg today side by side with full bed RIP @ 26kg today. The hybrid with Swift feels comfortable (but compared to full bed -), control ++, spin + and snapback +++. Played the hybrid approx 40 minutes and have some notching going. Likely the durability is going to be roughly the same as full bed RIP (approx 2.5 hours) Although still very short this might be my combo. But next week I report further.
2 hours in now and although quite heavily notched the atringa still have a decent snapback. Playability is still great. Think I might get another hour out of them. Also tried RIP Control @ 26kg x Red Devil 1.24 @ 24kg but felt harsher so will cut it out.
 
In the end got roughly 4 hours out of the RIP/Swift set up until it broke. As usual 0 fraying on the RIP Control, just notching. It lasted quite a bit longer than full bed RIP, which was a pleasant surprise really. Last hour the snapback reduced further but racket remained playable. This will be my go to setup, just ordered a new reel of RIP 1.30 and a reel of Swift 1.30, both White, should be good for a year at least ;).

Also tried RIP/Multifeel but had less control with that setup.
 
In the end got roughly 4 hours out of the RIP/Swift set up until it broke. As usual 0 fraying on the RIP Control, just notching. It lasted quite a bit longer than full bed RIP, which was a pleasant surprise really. Last hour the snapback reduced further but racket remained playable. This will be my go to setup, just ordered a new reel of RIP 1.30 and a reel of Swift 1.30, both White, should be good for a year at least ;).

Also tried RIP/Multifeel but had less control with that setup.
Nice, I'll give this one a go too with gray rip control and black swift.
Wanted to trial Kirschbaum Touch Dura / Swift but gonna push that back until rip breaks.
 
I would do Prince Lightning Pro Silver 1.30 / Toroline O-Toro Snap 1.25, at similar tension as champ's choice, and work up/down from there.
I'm curious about O-Toro Snap. Currently using Kirschbaum Proline Evolution 1.25 as a cross. What other smooth crosses have you played? What do you think of the tension life of Snap? Thanks for whatever you can offer.
 
@Winners or Errors - I find Snap's tension life to be roughly analogous to regular O-Toro White, while overall playable longevity is a bit better, due to the round shape being a bit more wear-resistant.

I've also used Wasabi X as a cross, and while the feel isn't quite as crisp as Snap, I do find it to be slightly more controlled and tempering of whatever main is being used.

Hope that helps!
 
My reels didn't arrive yet so continued to play with RIP/Multifeel (last time only hit a few balls). MF started fraying heavily after only10 minutes and broke after only 40 minutes in total. Not for me this setup.
 
up next: ak pro/phantom touch(comparable to gisen g tour 3)

On a semi-related note, I have noticed with three different crosses and in two different racquets that I like the way hdmx feels and plays when it is heavily frayed and close to breakIng. This has not been the case with the other main strIngs I have tried so far, which tend to get dull with tension loss and increasing string to strIng friction. Has anyone experienced this with triax or multifeel, which also keep siding as they fray?
 
My reels didn't arrive yet so continued to play with RIP/Multifeel (last time only hit a few balls). MF started fraying heavily after only10 minutes and broke after only 40 minutes in total. Not for me this setup.
Yeah, MultiFeel as a cross... I've only done that once. The fraying quickly locked up the stringbed and... never again. Wear was about what you described, too.
 
Yeah, MultiFeel as a cross... I've only done that once. The fraying quickly locked up the stringbed and... never again. Wear was about what you described, too.
Was it Multifeel Black or Natural? Big difference in level and longevity of slickness, with Black being superior. So if it was Natural that you tried, I would highly recommend trying Black.
 
Was it Multifeel Black or Natural? Big difference in level and longevity of slickness, with Black being superior. So if it was Natural that you tried, I would highly recommend trying Black.
Definitely only black or blue. I think the natural is pretty sticky. The fraying is what I thought locked up the stringbed and made it less effective as well as just plain ugly. Mains don't fray that way and slide right up to the breaking point, as well as retaining their elasticity/tension quite well.
 
Has anyone compared PLP to Prince Premier Control? Either in full bed or with poly crosses? How do they differ?
 
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Played more with Rip Control grey / Swift black.
I think I have like 4-5 hours on it (ok 2 of those doubles) and still playing well so that's some nice durability compared to some other setups I've tried.
I'll have to try some other multis with Swift crosses to see if it's mainly about the Rip or if the Swift does good things.
 
Began testing HDMX 1.30mm mains / Ghostwire 1.27mm crosses and Multifeel Natural 1.30mm mains / Ghostwire 1.27mm crosses, in matched Blade 100 v9s @ 55/54.5 lbs.

First impressions… Both passed my “feel” test (cannot be too mushy, cannot be too lively, cannot be muted/dead). But I preferred the feel of Multifeel, yet played better with HDMX. HDMX had much better directional control, a lower launch angle, and a much firmer feel. Multifeel gave easy depth, maybe too easy as I sprayed some balls.

My quest to find mains for my secondary setup to my usual gut/poly.

Current number 1: AK Pro CX

Still in contention: HDMX, Multifeel

Eliminated: Velocity, X-one Biphase, Kirschbaum Syn gut, Tourna Syn gut, Quasi-gut Armor.

Waiting to be tested: Lightning Pro, AK Pro, Triax, Micronite, Head Syn Gut, Tec 1000.
 
Began testing HDMX 1.30mm mains / Ghostwire 1.27mm crosses and Multifeel Natural 1.30mm mains / Ghostwire 1.27mm crosses, in matched Blade 100 v9s @ 55/54.5 lbs.

First impressions… Both passed my “feel” test (cannot be too mushy, cannot be too lively, cannot be muted/dead). But I preferred the feel of Multifeel, yet played better with HDMX. HDMX had much better directional control, a lower launch angle, and a much firmer feel. Multifeel gave easy depth, maybe too easy as I sprayed some balls.

My quest to find mains for my secondary setup to my usual gut/poly.

Current number 1: AK Pro CX

Still in contention: HDMX, Multifeel

Eliminated: Velocity, X-one Biphase, Kirschbaum Syn gut, Tourna Syn gut, Quasi-gut Armor.

Waiting to be tested: Lightning Pro, AK Pro, Triax, Micronite, Head Syn Gut, Tec 1000.
MultiFeel must be black. Natural is too sticky.
 
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