If you wanted to keep the cross relatively soft, give MSV Swift a try. Triax keeps sliding with it very long for me (although I'm not hard on strings - also, I mostly use Triax 1.28 in 18x20).Looking for advice. Have been loving Triax 1.33 mains and Ghostwire 1.22 crosses in percept 100d at 48/46. However after about 6 hours the mains have stopped sliding. I'm not sure if its the triax or the Ghostwire but the Triax appears (based on notching to have a decent amount of life left. So, I am looking for advice on a cross that will retain the snapback longer. For now, I am not considering sync or wasabi x because where I live the cost of these strings is too much. So others I am considering trying are: Polytour Fire, RPM Rough, and Revolve. If anyone has experience with those with Triax mains I would to hear about it. Also, if anyone has experience on the different colors of RPM and Revolve and whether that impacts snapback duration I would appreciate being educated.
Thanks for the reply. I don't think Swift is the path forward. I have a reel of it. My experience of it as a cross is that is gummier than ghostwire, flattens out like a ribbon and breaks quicker. I think its too soft of a material. Having said that my experience with it has been with a stiffer shaped poly in the mains; maybe it will be better with a softer main like triax. I have tried wiping the strings down (which does help) but haven't tried the coconut oil. I have just ordered some polytour fire to try outIf you wanted to keep the cross relatively soft, give MSV Swift a try. Triax keeps sliding with it very long for me (although I'm not hard on strings - also, I mostly use Triax 1.28 in 18x20).
I will try Outlast 1.15 and Hawk 1.20 eventually (already tried Hawk Touch 1.20 in the past, it felt really nice, but snapback gradually decreased with that).
Also, there's something you can try with your current setup: displace the crosses, clean the stringbed with a damp cloth, let it dry, then apply some coconut oil on it. It might help a bit temporarily. Tbh it is much more effective with natural gut mains.
I had the same experience with Swift with Prince Synthetic Gut Duraflex as the mainThanks for the reply. I don't think Swift is the path forward. I have a reel of it. My experience of it as a cross is that is gummier than ghostwire, flattens out like a ribbon and breaks quicker. I think its too soft of a material. Having said that my experience with it has been with a stiffer shaped poly in the mains; maybe it will be better with a softer main like triax. I have tried wiping the strings down (which does help) but haven't tried the coconut oil. I have just ordered some polytour fire to try out
Thx. Will report back after trying it out.@gvsbdisco Poly tour fire cross with triax mains kept sliding until I cut it out after about 10 hours. Would recommend it if you find a good deal. The standard price is a bit much imo. I haven't tried the others but revolve is one that intrigues me based on twu numbers
I'll echo GT3 being muted but very comfortable in both colors and gauges. Very happy with it until the costing wears off... may not last as long as wasabi did for you.I finally broke the Triax/WasX after about 11 hours of play. Played great until breakage. Was predictable and the snapback lasted the entire time. By the end I actually got over the muted feel and enjoyed it. I'm also quite happy with how long it lasted. Definitely one to revisit.
Also played some more with Triax/KMP in my other racquet. Probably around 6 hours now. Notching is about 50% on the mains. As expected snapback is starting to diminish slighty but its still playing quite well. Power has also dropped a little bit.
Given my enjoyment with WasX I'm considering trialling Gosen G-Tour 3 as a cross. I understand its a bit softer and also on the muted side. Perhaps I'd need to up the tension a few pounds.
Pure Strike 98 16x19 (white and orange cosmetic, not the "new" silver one)@PFG1 - Just curious, in what racquet, and if you know it, what was the strung spec?
Nice to see others experimenting with the lower powered stiffer poly crosses in these setups. I never did get good results with soft poly crosses. I will be stringing up and playing PLP/Hawk this weekend. Should be a good comparison to PLP/Max Power.Another update. So, I left PLP 1.25 / Bussard 1.20 (@ 56/49 lockout) in the other frame for a few more hits, just to see how it would feel and perform generally. Didn't really snapback at all, but the feel was wonderfully crisp and I really liked how light the string bed felt, while still have flattening/pancaking effect and control from Bussard crosses. Had an excellent blend of controlled power and I think I'm learning that I prefer to mix main and cross combo's that are spread further apart in power profile, meaning higher-powered non-poly/non-gut mains with lower-powered poly crosses. So this worked well. Had a very Walmart gut/Alu playability to it, but what it did have held up with pretty much zero drop off, at least until I cut it at 4 hours, as I could tell it was going to go in another 2-3 (PLP center mains in the sweet spot were probably notched 50-75%, and that was with 25% density string savers, but they weren't nearly enough – need them at 100% density to really make a difference). Overall, though, not bad. Might revisit in the future.
Now onto PLP 1.25 / Dunlop Explosive Speed Black 1.25 @ 56/49 lockout, with a 100% string-saver pattern on crosses #4 through 10, with # of mains per cross: 6, 8, 10, 8, 8, 6, 4 – 50 string savers total). Already seems like it may offer better snapback. We'll see tomorrow AM. (click to enlarge):
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@Trip, adding review links to the beginning of the thread is a great idea.PLP Black 1.25 / Dunlop Explosive Speed Black 1.25 (@56/49 lockout in a Revo CZ 98D, spec'd at 335/31.5/327) - 2 hours played. The main take-away: wow is DES a dead string. Like, almost lifeless. The first hour was pretty rough. The combo had very little easy pop on any shot whatsoever, and way less off-center forgiveness than the previous PLP 1.25 / Bussard 1.20 combo at the same tension. And comfort was questionable as well, with my all of my arm tissues feeling it more so than usual after this session. Additionally, with the thicker and near-lifeless cross, launch angle was excruciatingly low, as was evidenced by me dumping a ton of lower-level pickups off of both wings in to the net, many of the type that I easily was able to curl up and over with PLP 1.25 / Bussard 1.20. Finally, after about 60-75 minutes of decently hard 4.0-level hitting, the string bed started to open up, as DES started to relax ever-so-slightly, and I was getting marginally better depth on non-offensive shots (blocked serve returns, defensive groundies, etc). That said, upsides were the sheer amount of control and consistency, evidenced by no better example than my second serve percentage, with zero double-faults in the entire first set. All of that considered, I was of a high mind to cut this job after just the first session, but that goes against my principle of giving something at least two tries, so my hope is that it opens up even more before my next hit. Will be back with another update on this one soon, and a full review after a few sessions.
@tele - Going forward, in an effort to make the thread more usable/searchable as it grows, what if we were to index a list of links to the more complete and/or "final" review posts for all these combo's, at the bottom of your original post? Example format:
Multifilament Mains
- Diadem Impulse Natural 1.25 / MSV Bussard 1.20 (by @Trip)
- ......
Syn-Gut Mains
- ......
Partial-Poly Mains
- ......
To removal almost all of the effort/time burden, I could draft the list (will use ChatGPT 5 if possible) and refresh it periodically, sending the fully-formatted output to you via PM, and all you'd have to do then overwrite it into your OP via copy/paste.
Just a thought to help formalize what we've put together a bit better. What do you think?
Very good point, and probably better to K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple, Stupid), at least for starters.regarding the categories, I think sticking to multi and syn gut as the two mains categories might keep things simpler for now because there are both multis and syn guts with poly in them, and there are other materials like kevlar, zyex, and polyolefin that some multis and syn guts have, and those can also affect string chatacteristics.
Really looking forward to your thoughts on this combo. If I may offer a tip on tension: make sure you pull PLP mains at high enough tension to adequately spring-load them, to keep snapback as voracious as possible, and keep the Hawk cross tension low enough to not impeed that snap too much. I would base your combo's tension first off of whatever reference tension you need to keep PLP snappy, then perhaps do Hawk crosses 5-ish pounds or so lower than that, maybe even a hair lower.I will be stringing up and playing PLP/Hawk this weekend.
I have been playing multi/poly setups with stiff poly crosses and advocating for them with higher differentials on this forum for years now and I don’t think many people tried it back then so it’s nice to see others testing it out.Really looking forward to your thoughts on this combo. If I may offer a tip on tension: make sure you pull PLP mains at high enough tension to adequately spring-load them, to keep snapback as voracious as possible, and keep the Hawk cross tension low enough to not impeed that snap too much. I would base your combo's tension first off of whatever reference tension you need to keep PLP snappy, then perhaps do Hawk crosses 5-ish pounds or so lower than that, maybe even a hair lower.
Very interesting, Rabbit. Aside from a more solid feel, and I can only presume a higher level of control from the firmer crosses, how else do you like syn-gut/poly more than full-bed Rexis Speed (which you were playing previously for quite some time)?Well, I'm back in the club. After a year or so absence playing with a multi, I hit a spell where I played like crap. In desperation, I went back to synthetic gut mains (currently Dunlop S-Gut 1.25) and poly (Yonex PTP 1.15). Why Dunlop S-Gut? I had some on hand in blue and yellow which matches the PTP. No ill effects on the wrist, and my play is back up a couple of notches. I strung one at 52/48 and the other at 52/52. I played with the 52/52 yesterday and really liked the solid feel. I'm supposed to play again today, weather permitting, and will use the 52/48.
Once I use up my Dunlop S-Gut, I'm going to try the Head Synthetic Gut.
Yes, you do get more control. Synthetic gut just has a solid feel that I've grown accustomed to. While Rexis is uber comfortable, something happened to un-gel me with it. I think it was my carousel of frames a few months ago. Synthetic gut/thin poly breaks where I wasn't breaking Rexis, just restringing when it got notched about halfway through. Who knows, it may have been I left it in too long. And, there's no guarantee that I won't go back to it in the future.... I wish I could settleVery interesting, Rabbit. Aside from a more solid feel, and I can only presume a higher level of control from the firmer crosses, how else do you like syn-gut/poly more than full-bed Rexis Speed (which you were playing previously for quite some time)?
Indeed. I have a good amount of imprinting myself, having learned at 7-10 yrs old with a Prince Synergy Lite OS + full-bed PSGD at ~60 lbs. Something about having at least 1/2 a bed being syn gut just feels "right".Synthetic gut just has a solid feel that I've grown accustomed to.
That can definitely happen.While Rexis is uber comfortable, something happened to un-gel me with it. I think it was my carousel of frames a few months ago.
Well, at least you now have a collective "support group" in this thread to trade experiences with, in perhaps helping to find the best setup for you. We're trying to push the limits in what can be attained with a non/partial poly main / poly cross, and some of these combo's are really good.Synthetic gut/thin poly breaks where I wasn't breaking Rexis, just restringing when it got notched about halfway through. Who knows, it may have been I left it in too long. And, there's no guarantee that I won't go back to it in the future.... I wish I could settle![]()
How is the power/launch/pop when compared to other non-polyesters in the same gauge/tension?should be getting some soon
Haven’t laced it up yet and probably will do a hybrid with either sync crosses or Bussard crosses.How is the power/launch/pop when compared to other non-polyesters in the same gauge/tension?![]()
For the sake of Dark Matter's snapback and physical longevity, I'd go Sync 1.25. Bussard, while having arguably better feel than Sync (if you value crisp-ness at least), does have higher surface friction (especially when serving as a sliding surface to most synthetics) and higher surface hardness, so I think it will cut through DM noticeably faster.Haven’t laced it up yet and probably will do a hybrid with either sync crosses or Bussard crosses.
Has anyone tried a hybrid of triax and sync?
I think I’ve found my ideal use for Sync. 1.33 Triax / 1.25 Sync in a Blade v9 16M. Triax needs a cross that lets it slide and when it does, it is a high performance main string.
Sync’s combo of pocketing, control, tension maintenance and SnapBack is unbelievable. A
This is quite the Goldilocks set up of power, spin, control and feel.
Why not Triax mains Sync crosses, since it comes closer to a gut/poly setup?
I did 1.38 Triax/1.25 Sync and it was quite controlled, slightly less wild spin than full poly but the consistent depth and power is there, incredible feel. Only qualm I had with Sync crosses in this setup was the how unusually stiffer it felt compared to it being in the mains in poly-poly hybrids or full bed Sync. @dr. godmode is right in that it may stiffen up in particular racquets and string setups. The stiffness was enough to cause twitches in my forearm and shoulder (but thankfully no pain) which has never happened with full poly before. Really strange.
Played another hour with PLP/Hawk and was adjusting Hawk crosses consistently in between points. PLP still snapping back and played with adequate control but there was an increase in harsh vibrations leading me to cut it out. Both Hawk and Max Power make for great crosses in these setups leveling up control. I would give the edge to Max Power for consistency and longevity, as well as price but if you only have access to Hawk you won’t be missing much. I would like to compare 17g Hawk to 18g Max Power next. 18g Max Power has increased top end performance compared to 17g that would be interesting to compare side by side with Hawk. Also have Bussard, Wasabi X, and Otoro Snap to test out as crosses in these setups.Played PLP/Hawk compared to PLP/Max power same tensions. Hawk had slightly more top end spin the first hour that leveled out with max power after, slightly more pop, less crisp. Difference was marginal, but I did notice hawk crosses moving out of place sooner after about 4 hours compared to around 6 hours for max power. Both strings performed well and the differences were marginal.
Did you ever try HDMX? It is the best I have tried (I have not yet tried triax or multifeel in a hybrid) in terms of allowing the crosses to stay in place, and based on the few hybrids I have used it in, it does not increase in harshness before it breaks.Played another hour with PLP/Hawk and was adjusting Hawk crosses consistently in between points. PLP still snapping back and played with adequate control but there was an increase in harsh vibrations leading me to cut it out. Both Hawk and Max Power make for great crosses in these setups leveling up control. I would give the edge to Max Power for consistency and longevity, as well as price but if you only have access to Hawk you won’t be missing much. I would like to compare 17g Hawk to 18g Max Power next. 18g Max Power has increased top end performance compared to 17g that would be interesting to compare side by side with Hawk. Also have Bussard, Wasabi X, and Otoro Snap to test out as crosses in these setups.
I have not tried it yet, but I have a pack of it and Triax to test out soon. I have tried multifeel black and it plays well but I find PLP to play better. I will give it a go soon and let you know how it plays.Did you ever try HDMX? It is the best I have tried (I have not yet tried triax or multifeel in a hybrid) in terms of allowing the crosses to stay in place, and based on the few hybrids I have used it in, it does not increase in harshness before it breaks.
How is the power/pop when compared to other polys in the same gauge/setup/tension/racquet/etc...?Ok first outing with Dark Matter 17/Sync 17 in a strike 100 16/20 was very positive. About an hour of hitting then a quick set (W6-3). Snap back still there. Almost no notching at all. Does feel a bit more muted than full poly I had in there before(solstice black/flash) but still good feel overall. Obviously not as much spin but still above expectations. So far so good.
I just started using this frame(strike 100 16x20) and the only other setup I had in it was solstice black/flash. No discernible difference regarding power/pop between the two setups.How is the power/pop when compared to other polys in the same gauge/setup/tension/racquet/etc...?
Maybe need a new thread for Diadem Dark Matter, but too curious atm, so need to ask. How does it compare to diadem evolution?
Usually? Hot knife through butter. Unless you drop Elastocrosses in around the sweet spot, and/or use a more beefy main with some kind of durability wrap (Lightning Pro, etc).What is you all's experience with a 1.30 multi and a thin 1.20 poly cross?
I might try a cheap golden set multi I have with some sync just for scienceUsually? Hot knife through butter. Unless you drop Elastocrosses in around the sweet spot, and/or use a more beefy main with some kind of durability wrap (Lightning Pro, etc).
Not much difference between 1.25 and 1.20 cross imo.Been dabbling in this realm with a Blade Pro. What is you all's experience with a 1.30 multi and a thin 1.20 poly cross?