Please explain how to string the full Jet method

levy1

Hall of Fame
Currently I use the mini Jet and I do not understand how to do the full Jet. Here it is
MAIN STRINGS :
1. String first four center mains on each side at reference tension.
2. Next 2 (on 16 mains) or 3 (on 18 mains) reduce tension by 4 pounds.
3. On a 16 main pattern after pulling main #6 skip over to #8. Increase tension 4 pounds (to reference tension) before tensioning. (#8 will be pulled at reference tension). On an 18 main pattern after pulling #7 skip over to #9. Increase tension 4 pounds before tensioning.
4. Fill-in main #7 (on a 16 main or #8 on an 18 main) which will be the last main. Adjust tension by adding an additional 4 pounds (reference plus 4.)
5. Tie off on main #6 (16 main) or #7 (18 main).
CROSS STRINGS :
1. IMPORTANT: Each cross string must be held under tension at least 20 seconds before clamping off. We recommend weaving the next cross while the previous one remains under tension.
2. Start first three cross strings and tension at same tension as final mains. (+4 over reference tension)
3. After installing 3rd cross string, reduce tension 6 pounds and install the rest of the cross strings (This will be reference – 2)
4. After stringing 3rd last cross, loop over and weave final cross. Increase tension +6 pounds.
5. For last cross string fill in second from bottom. Tie off on 3rd from bottom.
So, if I am stringing two piece at 44lbs in a 16X20 is this correct:
Mains
M1-4 at 44
5,6 at 40
now skip 7 and string 8 at 44
Go back and string 7 at 48
Tie off mains at 6
Cross
C1-3 at 48
C4-17 at 42
Now string 20 at ?
Go back to 19 and String at ?
tie off 3rd from bottom

Also can anyone explain how do do a hybrid with the full Jet when I want to string 44 Mains and 42 Crosses?
 
You can string 19 @ 46 or 48
and second to last cross at 42 or 44.

at that point, you're kind of pulling teeth.

I prefer to string the last two crosses at same tension as first 3....

the bulk of the method is already done.

The last cross will be a hard weave, I usually double pull tension when it is a hard weave....really depends on preference and what type of machine you are using.
 
Here is a JET tension calculator I've been working on. It's set up so you input the Main and Crosses tension in the yellow blocks. Then the tensions are calculated for the remaining strings.
18X10 racquets are first, then 16X19 on the bottom.

Please double check these and let me know if there are mistakes. Stared at it so long I'm probably missing something simple.

This link may drop the file in your downloads folder or it may open up directly.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/66671702/JET%20Tension%20Calculator.xlsx
 
I just finished talking to John at G&G. We were discussing about the varity of Jet methods out there and he was explaining its involvement and different type of machines require some tweaks in the method.

For my fixed clamp, wise electronic machine

So, if I am stringing two piece at 44lbs in a 16X20:
Mains
M1-4 at 44 Reference
5,6 at 40 reference -4
now skip 7 and string 8 at 44 reference
Go back and string 7 at 48 reference +4
Tie off mains at 6
Cross
C1-3 at 48 reference +4
C4-17 at 42 reference -2
Now string 20 at 48 reference +4
Go back to 19 and String at 48 reference +4
tie off 3rd from bottom

Note after main 6 you string hole 8 and then string hole 7.
Same on cross 20 and 19.
 
Mine to but using the mini Jet has produced amazing results over traditional stringing for me. Just want to see if this is better.
 
I tried the JET method once and it's a real PITA, although I didn't play long enough with the racquet to feel any differences. But I do string with the slow-pulling/5-7 seconds for the string to rest method and I have amazing results over the regular methods.

I only dropped the tension to my usual level after I bought my own stringing machine and started with the slow pulling method. Before that, when taking to pro shops, the least I could use was 50lbs.
 
I tried the JET method once and it's a real PITA, although I didn't play long enough with the racquet to feel any differences. But I do string with the slow-pulling/5-7 seconds for the string to rest method and I have amazing results over the regular methods.

I only dropped the tension to my usual level after I bought my own stringing machine and started with the slow pulling method. Before that, when taking to pro shops, the least I could use was 50lbs.
I agree, maybe its the slow pull that gives that special feel.
 
So, how does the mini jet or full jet produce better results than a standard string job? Or how about compared to using a website like this?
 
Here is a JET tension calculator I've been working on. It's set up so you input the Main and Crosses tension in the yellow blocks. Then the tensions are calculated for the remaining strings.
18X10 racquets are first, then 16X19 on the bottom.

Please double check these and let me know if there are mistakes. Stared at it so long I'm probably missing something simple.

This link may drop the file in your downloads folder or it may open up directly.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/66671702/JET%20Tension%20Calculator.xlsx

That's pretty neat, did you make it yourself? It would totally save on the prep time. Sometimes, even after planning and writing everything out... I still end up missing a tension change.. That's why this method is frustrating at first, but eventually becomes second nature.

There are a lot of variations as well. For instance, before it was L/RM1-3 at ref then L/RM4-6 at -4.. etc.

I still use the skip 7m, tension 8m then tension 7m and tie off on some frames where it puts the last main closer to the tie off, but on some frames like the prince rebel 98, you don't have to do that because the tie off is already closer by stringing it in regular order.
 
Yes KoaUka I made the spreadsheet myself. I too was having a hard time remembering tension changes, specially when I first started using this method.

This sheet helps a lot and I just quickly input the tensions and print it out. Specially helpful with hybrids and different tensions for Xs/Ms.

If you see any errors or have any suggestions on improving it please let me know..
 
I've heard of doing this before but never knew it was called "Jet" method.

The reasoning behind this is that it changes the feel of the ball pocketing? Is there any other reason?
 
I've heard of doing this before but never knew it was called "Jet" method.

The reasoning behind this is that it changes the feel of the ball pocketing? Is there any other reason?

for some reason the Jet method seems to lock in the string bed, IMO - sweetspot feels live and tightening the box around sweetspot seems to work, not sold on it though and as usual, hard to give it to a client who is afraid to try something new
 
Also, from what I know, the JET method is something that is learned and perfected not just done.
Following the written instructions will result in a decent result but nothing compared to the result of a JET stringer.
Just sayin
 
I believe because I know it is a involved process to learn. Can you compare or have you hit with rackets of different Jet method to tell us how much difference you can feel?
 
I believe because I know it is a involved process to learn. Can you compare or have you hit with rackets of different Jet method to tell us how much difference you can feel?

Absolutely. I had Elliot string one of my Donnay's and I have had a stick with the JayCee (abbreviated method) method. Both racquets are identical, with identical L-Tec strings (5s/3s), at the same tensions.

Elliot's string job: Extremely plush string bed, extremely soft and comfortable. Ball pocketing was incredible as well as spin. I'm prone to arm injury with polys, though the JET gave my arm zero problems. Strings would not move at all! I got about 34 hours of play before I popped a main.

JayCee method: Very nice stringbed, it was plush like JET. Spin production (because of snap back) was decent, not like JET, pocketing was nice though. I noticed that the strings would move around A LOT more with this string job, the mains were all over the place. It was comfortable for the most part, though as I got deep into the teen hours of play, it became less playable and comfortable. I ended cutting them out because they were toast.

That being said, the differences between JET and others is that the life of the string job is double. The spin production is something almost unnatural, though good with the strings alone. There is something to be said about having an extremely comfortable stringbed like the JET method gives you.
There is a big difference between the two, to me the biggest difference is the confidence I get from the JET stringbed.

Since Elliot lives in France, he can't restring my frames, thankfully I have a guy I send my racquets to in Southern California who is a JET stringer. He does an excellent JET string job.
 
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Also, from what I know, the JET method is something that is learned and perfected not just done.
Following the written instructions will result in a decent result but nothing compared to the result of a JET stringer.
Just sayin

agreed. there's more to stringing than just following some written instructions.
 
Yes KoaUka I made the spreadsheet myself. I too was having a hard time remembering tension changes, specially when I first started using this method.

This sheet helps a lot and I just quickly input the tensions and print it out. Specially helpful with hybrids and different tensions for Xs/Ms.

If you see any errors or have any suggestions on improving it please let me know..

How do I use the JET method with a 16 by 20 Yonex vcore 89 using Natural gut mains 48 and Luxilon 4G crosses 44?

Thanks friends
 
Same as you would normally, follow the instructions.

But in the instructions it says only 1 reference tension, for example my tension for mains would be and I start with 48 and, then go down to 44 and finish to 52.

And then its says star the crosses as your last mains, with 52.

But if I use the luxilon at 44, ..the 52 would be kinda of harsh in my arm, thats why I was asking what to do in hybrids with this method
 
Cluckcluck is right. You just follow the instructions on each set-up, but start the crosses using the reference tension you plan to use in the crosses. I use 54/52, so I start my crosses @ 56 (ref +4) for the first three, then drop to 50 (ref -2) for x's 4 through 18.
Then finish off the last x's per the instructions.
 
Also, from what I know, the JET method is something that is learned and perfected not just done.
Following the written instructions will result in a decent result but nothing compared to the result of a JET stringer.
Just sayin

I must be missing something. I thought that if you follow directions, you'll get what it's intended to do.

I might try it myself in the off-season just to see what it's like, but honestly, if there's something more to it than following directions, please let us know and be more specific about it rather than making it out to be an abstract art form. Aren't we just talking about strings?
 
Interesting discussion. I've never heard of JET method before. I've read about the other method (Sergetti). I should try these methods one of these days when I have a lot of time to spare.
 
One very important part of stringing using the JET method is you need to lower your reference tension. If one is considering the JET method do a Google search for “JET stringing method” as there is information that has been left out here.
 
If you have a ECP machine, I don't think the Jet method is too good for the load cell either. As one who has tried the Jet method, I can testify that I saw absolutely no benefit from it whatsoever (YMMV). It seems to me that stringing is much the same as rackets. You keep hearing about improvements and this that and the other, but the basic principals do not change. You stick the string in there, you pull tension, you clamp.....rinse and repeat.
 
If you have a ECP machine, I don't think the Jet method is too good for the load cell either. As one who has tried the Jet method, I can testify that I saw absolutely no benefit from it whatsoever (YMMV). It seems to me that stringing is much the same as rackets. You keep hearing about improvements and this that and the other, but the basic principals do not change. You stick the string in there, you pull tension, you clamp.....rinse and repeat.
Just seems like Reinventing The Wheel 101 to me.
 
Just seems like Reinventing The Wheel 101 to me.
Don’t give up on the JET method too fast. I liked the JET method better than other proportional stringing methods. For the mains you string the 8 center mains, 4 per side, at reference tension then drop RT by 4# until you get to the outer 2 crosses. The 2 outer mains are strung at RT+4 again. Not much different than a lot of other methods. Stringing the center mains higher and the Parnell method of using knot tension on the outer 2 mains. The method also uses a modified Yonex loop on the outer 2 mains. The crosses you could string normal as they won’t make much difference.

if you string mains and crosses with 2 tensions. You could string the center 8 and 2 outer mains at the higher tension and the other mains and crosses at the lower tension.
 
I think a lot of the benefit comes from bringing the strings to tension slowly. On a lock out machine if you crank slowly you can actually feel the string relaxing out further than it would have with a fast crank. Even if you crank quickly till it locks out and then wait and try to crank slowly on a second pull the string doesn’t feel like it stretches to the same point The crank handle shows this because it doesn’t go around as far to it’s locked out position. I seem to get longer life out of strings that have been pulled slowly.

I think the tension adjustments made to the outer mains give a more even tension result. I’m not sure what the tension adjustments made to the crosses are for.
 
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