Poly String life- enough is enough

M

mctennis

Legend
Why do we put up with companies that make poly strings that only last about 6 hours before they go dead and need to be cut out? Seems to me these poly strings ( from all the string companies) are a huge money maker for them and a cash drain for us, the consumers. I don't think we'd put up with other products lasting such a short life. I've tried a slew of these polys without any lasting more than 8 hours at most. I don't care if you even string your own racquets. It is such a waste of time and cash to buy more and more of the poly strings. I'll find some other string combination that lasts longer than the 6 hour average. Gut lasts me a lot longer than any poly does so that is a lot better buy for me to use. There's not enough positive benefits with poly to justify the cost of new strings and a restringing cost every few hours. I refuse to buy a stringing machine just to be able to restring the " go dead quick" poly strings.

I'm not sure if this belongs on the STRINGS section or the ODDS AND END section. If it needs moved TW please do so. There is no RANTS AND RAVES section any longer.
 
Now you probably understand why every video racket review from TW always praises polys (or at least poly+something hybrids). They have a great business selling them to topspin junkies ;)
 
Yeah, agreed. I moved back to multis. I find that the extra spin is not worth it as I hit more of a flat ball anyway. Multis tend to last me about 3 times as long.
 
I'm sure that racquet companies purposely don't look into the longevity of the string.

For those of us that break syn gut in an hour or two, polys are cheaper in the long run, just fyi.
 
Poly strings are like race car tires. They are meant to deliver high performance for a SHORT time. Great if you cannot afford to pop a main serving Match Point. Then you restring for the next match. Not so great for every day use
 
fortun8son said:
Poly strings are like race car tires. They are meant to deliver high performance for a SHORT time. Great if you cannot afford to pop a main serving Match Point. Then you restring for the next match. Not so great for every day use
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Then it goes right back to what I originally said- too expensive to use all the time. I agree, if I were a race car driver I'd expect high performance for a short time. I just think the performance vs longevity is not worth the cost. IMO. I can see why so many people string their own racquets now. I'd be more in the poorhouse than I am now.
 
I agree. I don't really care for poly strings that much. And I don't like playing with stringbeds that lose performance after a few hours.

My go-to string setup is still Kevlar/Poly (at lowish tension, it gives more spin that full poly, and performance lasts for for about 50 hours before the Kevlar finally breaks).

I'm also experimenting with full Kevlar in unconventional more open patterns:

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=378484
 
I agree. I don't really care for poly strings that much. And I don't like playing with stringbeds that lose performance after a few hours.

My go-to string setup is still Kevlar/Poly (at lowish tension, it gives more spin and better control than full poly, and performance lasts for for about 50 hours before the Kevlar finally breaks).

I'm also experimenting with full Kevlar in unconventional more open patterns:

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=378484
 
There is a lot to be said for Kevlar in thin gauges at low tension. Ashaway Crossfire18 strung Low in the mains is a great alternative for chronic stringbreakers
Many players would be happier stringing Sweet16 or OG Sheep more often. But these strings are not cool! Or profitable. Beware the hype!
 
travlerajm said:
I agree. I don't really care for poly strings that much. And I don't like playing with stringbeds that lose performance after a few hours.

My go-to string setup is still Kevlar/Poly (at lowish tension, it gives more spin and better control than full poly, and performance lasts for for about 50 hours before the Kevlar finally breaks).

I'm also experimenting with full Kevlar in unconventional more open patterns:

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=378484
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Specifically what strings and #s do you use? Poly is the main right?
 
mctennis,
you are very right from YOUR point of view. in your case it might be the best decision not to use poly's anymore. but you have to accept that there are other players around that have a much shorter time-window, for instance due to heavy topspin. in my case for instance a multi or natty gut lasts less than 3 hours in the mains, a syn gut maybe 4, while with a 17g (1.25) poly in the mains i can hit the 10 hour mark. i have found poly that don't go dead in this time-window.
i know players who go through polys in less than two hours. any syngut or multi would last less than 30 minutes with them. in such a case your initial assumptions would definitely be wrong.
so, while it may really be reasonable for you, having a time window of much more than 10 hitting hours with a set of strings, to move away from poly because they go dead so soon (and they definitely do so - with my son who is 12 and does not hit that hard they tend to last some 20 hitting hours before going dead resp. breaking), there are other players for which this option would rather be impossible.
 
mctennis said:
Then it goes right back to what I originally said- too expensive to use all the time. I agree, if I were a race car driver I'd expect high performance for a short time. I just think the performance vs longevity is not worth the cost. IMO. I can see why so many people string their own racquets now. I'd be more in the poorhouse than I am now.
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That's why I switched to SP Tornado, it's so cheap you can restring for each match/session.

It's the nature of the beast, if you think polys are bad go and string your racket in VS Gut, it lasts no time at all.
 
fgs said:
mctennis,
you are very right from YOUR point of view. in your case it might be the best decision not to use poly's anymore. but you have to accept that there are other players around that have a much shorter time-window, for instance due to heavy topspin. in my case for instance a multi or natty gut lasts less than 3 hours in the mains, a syn gut maybe 4, while with a 17g (1.25) poly in the mains i can hit the 10 hour mark. i have found poly that don't go dead in this time-window.
i know players who go through polys in less than two hours. any syngut or multi would last less than 30 minutes with them. in such a case your initial assumptions would definitely be wrong.
so, while it may really be reasonable for you, having a time window of much more than 10 hitting hours with a set of strings, to move away from poly because they go dead so soon (and they definitely do so - with my son who is 12 and does not hit that hard they tend to last some 20 hitting hours before going dead resp. breaking), there are other players for which this option would rather be impossible.
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Exactly. There is a niche that it fills perfectly, but many people who use it, don't NEED it. But the manufacturers need to push it and there is the Cult of Personality. If Nadal uses RPM, it will make me play like him if I use it!
 
I would agree with some aspects here the Poly's only last about8 hours before being pretty dead and unplayable. I have actually only ever broken one poly string so it's not a durability thing. I do tend to break a syn. gut, multi or nat. gut in about 15 hours of hitting so I hate having it pop during a match. I also hate that basically every string I've ever tried except for poly's move all over the place. This I can not stand!!!!! I hate having to straighten strings more than a few times during an entire match and I won't hit with them out of place. Call me OCD but it just bothers me.

So for me the difference in time I can use a Poly is not much different than others and with the exception of cheap syn. gut the poly strings are not more expensive. Poly is really worth the very minimal difference in cost compared to the benefits I get from it.
 
I think that all strings have their pros and cons. I personally can't stand multis because of the movement and too much power. Syn gut doesn't give me the feel that I like and Gut is just too expensive for me to justify.

Now, I will say that a lot of the older, especially 1st gen, polys really aren't worth it unless you are one of those people who just loves that string and can't bring yourself to play with anything else. I love ALU Rough but it falls into this category. I won't pay $17 to play with it when it's done after 4-6 hours.

The newer polys are getting a lot better with their overall life. It still might not be as good as some of us want it to be but it's still way better than what it was.

If you ask me, I've come to believe that we all string poly too tight. J011yRoger even posted in his thread that a player needs to be able to make poly strings bend in order to get all the benefits and most of us, myself included, string our poly too tight to really make that happen.

So, if we want to make our polys last longer, maybe we should all try a) a thicker gauge b) lower tension or c) a poly hybrid (my least favorite because any other string pretty much adds more power than I would like). And I suppose you could also try a mix of a and b and see how that treated.

Just my 2c.
 
That's why I'm really exited about the WC B5E that's on it's way. It's supposedly much longer lasting than CyberFlash.

Also, now that I switched back to an open string pattern I'll be doing a lot more stringing, so the longer the poly lasts the better.
 
el sergento said:
That's why I'm really exited about the WC B5E that's on it's way. It's supposedly much longer lasting than CyberFlash.

Also, now that I switched back to an open string pattern I'll be doing a lot more stringing, so the longer the poly lasts the better.
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B5E has excellent tension maintenance.
 
I agree with FGS comments. I know of a player that breaks poly in 2 or 3 hours of play and if he were to use syn gut or multi or natural gut, it would break even quicker so for players with massive topspin or hit the ball really hard, polys actually make economic sense.

Then there are players that put poly in and don't know that after a few hours it doesn't play the same and continue playing with dead strings so they just ignorant of polys characteristics.

For me, I have noticed substantial spin production using poly but everyone will have to make their own decision as to whether the cost justifies the benefits. If B5E plays like what others have mention and lasts me 8 to 10 hours, I am willing to live with that since the other setups like multis and natural gut last me the same range.
 
String a poly at 62lbs (in a 90sq in frame, you'll have to up it up for bigger face rackets)

let that racket sit in your house for 3 months. Then throw it in your car and let it heat cycle (in the summer months) for a couple of weeks.

Go hit, the strings don't die.
 
why don't you tell the most important part of this string seasoning:
it really works out that way only if you start stringing eaxctly at midnight on a full moon day and some wolves are howling somewhere nearby.:)
 
You can get very constant tension from poly by waiting for it to lose tension all by itself (just let it sit in the bag for a week or so) and then starting to play with it, but this can wreak havoc on your arm. Not recommended at all.
 
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i do the following with my strings: first i do a little prestretch (not much as my machine does not have any facility in this respect), then i string and when i'm finished i put the stick on the floor and step about 30-40 times on the stringbed. then i put it aside and usually don't hit with it in the first 24 hours.
what good is this? well, when a string breaks, no matter if at practice or during a match, i just get the next one out of the bag and go on playing from where i stopped - the tension loss after this "treatment" is minimal.
it is important to know though that my usual time frame for hitting with a set until it breaks is around 8-10 hours, so i'm not talking about months or even several weeks here.
i have found a few strings that are not "impressed" by this treatment and don't die on me within my time window either, so i do really enjoy my time on the court.
 
Macro80 said:
That's why I switched to SP Tornado, it's so cheap you can restring for each match/session.

It's the nature of the beast, if you think polys are bad go and string your racket in VS Gut, it lasts no time at all.
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So you think VS gut lasts no time at all? I get a lot of hours out of VS gut. Much more than any poly I've used.
It works out for some people that can string their own racquets but I have not seen any posts here stating they get really any useful play time out of a poly. Like you stated, if they break other strings more often THEN it is a good investment. I'd say for the most of the players here it isn't worth it. I guess I've just not seen that many people break strings as often as some of the posters here say they do. I see the college players here in my town and around my town playing and practicing. I don't see them breaking strings as often as HS players say they do here. I'd be willing to bet the college players hit harder than the HS players do. However, if some break strings, other than poly, faster then I see why poly strings are popular.
 
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mctennis said:
So you think VS gut lasts no time at all? I get a lot of hours out of VS gut. Much more than any poly I've used.
It works out for some people that can string their own racquets but I have not seen any posts here stating they get really any useful play time out of a poly. Like you stated, if they break other strings more often THEN it is a good investment. I'd say for the most of the players here it isn't worth it. I guess I've just not seen that many people break strings as often as some of the posters here say they do. I see the college players here in my town and around my town playing and practicing. I don't see them breaking strings as often as HS players say they do here. I'd be willing to bet the college players hit harder than the HS players do. However, if some break strings, other than poly, faster then I see why poly strings are popular.
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If I gave my high school players full syn-gut jobs, the varsity players would be breaking strings at least 1-2 times a week (6-8 hours). Now, give them a decent co-poly or poly (Topspin Cyberflash, SPPP, Isospeed Baseline, etc...) in a hybrid, and that number goes down to once every two or three weeks without the strings feeling dead (since the syn gut will break before the poly goes dead). I agree that many players get caught up in the poly-hype, but to say that some people SHOULDN'T be using them is most likely incorrect, since the strings effects can be 90% mental in some cases.
 
I'm trying good old psgd next time with an open mind because I'm tired of my strings going dead as well. My game has changed so much since using poly I'm interested what the result will be :)
 
As others pointed out. A heavy topspin player will get less out of a syngut/multi/gut plus it will be harder to control shots.

You also have to include to this debate that it's easier to control shots with polys than multis due to the power level nature of these strings.
 
TimothyO said:
I've read that poly strings can rival others in durability if properly installed. This includes NOT pre-stretching, installing at lower tensions (30s to 40s), and allowing the string to "settle" while stringing. Here's an interesting blog post on the topic:

http://ggtennis.wordpress.com/2011/03/17/the-definitive-guide-to-stringing-polys-and-co-polys/
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I read this also, but it was not true for me. I strung exactly the way they instructed using weiss cannon turbo twist 18 gauge at 44 lbs. The result was a nice soft feeling string job that had very little control, way to much power. I have been using the same string at 52 lbs. + it plays very nice, so this proved to me that the link you pointed out was full of it.

As far as poly being a rip off there is some truth to this. I have found that if you string yourself it is pretty economical, but you must string your own rackets. There are many modestly priced polys out there that play good for a decent amount of time considering the price.

Weiss cannon makes some great strings for a good price. When i buy a spool of even their higher priced string like turbo twist it will cost me a little over 7 dollars a set. I usually play 1 official match a week so i will use a brand new string job for that, then use it for pick up matches+practice. So i always have 2 rackets strung up with one being new or slightly used+the other being a week old at the most.

So occasionally i will string twice a week but most of the time just once. Plus i should note that i play 6 days a week. When i was using multis which were much higher priced i was doing the same thing, so they were much more costly. So to me paying 7 bucks a week +having a nice set up is a pretty good deal.
 
Couldn't have said it any better Tim. Agree completely. Scorpion costs me approx $6.25 a set for a reel. My orders are big enough there is no shipping. I'm getting 8-10 solid hours of good play, and another 2 to 4 if I'm just practicing. Can't beat that...
 
tlm said:
I read this also, but it was not true for me. I strung exactly the way they instructed using weiss cannon turbo twist 18 gauge at 44 lbs. The result was a nice soft feeling string job that had very little control, way to much power. I have been using the same string at 52 lbs. + it plays very nice, so this proved to me that the link you pointed out was full of it.
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The link is not full of it at all. First question is how much topspin do you hit with? There should be no issue with control after you get used to it..takes an hour or so, and then you will be dialed in. Second question is, what kind of racquet do you use?

44 pounds means it was probably in the upper 30s before you even hit with it. UNLESS you have a constant pull machine. Now that I have one, the racquet comes off the stringer at the tension I strung at.

So the safe thing to do is to try 50#s, since it will end up being in the mid 40s. You will have no issues with control, and you will get more playability out of your strings.

I suspect that your string were in the 30s before you got to hit with them, which is why the adjustment was so tough.
 
The TurboTwist is a unique animal in the string world. It has more elasticity than most polys and performs in many ways like a synthetic. I am not sure that the low tension guideline can be applied to this particular string. (It's an exception) Other copolys, however, definitely perform best at tensions in the 30's - 40's.
 
Power Player said:
The link is not full of it at all. First question is how much topspin do you hit with? There should be no issue with control after you get used to it..takes an hour or so, and then you will be dialed in. Second question is, what kind of racquet do you use?

44 pounds means it was probably in the upper 30s before you even hit with it. UNLESS you have a constant pull machine. Now that I have one, the racquet comes off the stringer at the tension I strung at.

So the safe thing to do is to try 50#s, since it will end up being in the mid 40s. You will have no issues with control, and you will get more playability out of your strings.

I suspect that your string were in the 30s before you got to hit with them, which is why the adjustment was so tough.
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I use full western grip+hit with a lot of top spin. I use a donnay x white but i was using a wilson kobra which did not work with this method either. My stringing machine is gamma x stringer drop weight with 6 point mount+fixed clamps, most people i have strung for notice that my string jobs are tighter than there usual jobs that are done on a lock out.

All rackets lose tension after stringing on any machine. I went out+played with this new job within a few hours after stringing. It was to powerful, no getting used to this rocket launcher set up. I increased the tension to 52 lbs.+it plays great, so to me this information is not correct. Now maybe you are correct about actual tensions i dont know, but unless you have an expensive tension reading machine who really does know what their tensions exactly are.

In this article about stringing polys really low they were even talking about tensions in the 30's so even if my job was lower than the 44lbs. i strung at it still should have played good. The article did not specify that you had to use a certain racket or poly string, i think it even mentioned tt as a string to try. So to me this article is incorrect, i followed it to the tee+it was wrong.
 
Expensive tuning machine? You can just use racquettune, which uses string frequency to determine tension.

The blog is definitely not incorrect at all . If you use a full western grip and still can not control a Donnay racquet at low tensions, the issue is with you. I have a Donnay Black, it is strung with full poly at 46#s and I have had no issues at all.

Not saying it is for everybody, but it is definitely not incorrect by any means.
 
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tlm said:
The result was a nice soft feeling string job that had very little control, way to much power. I have been using the same string at 52 lbs. + it plays very nice, so this proved to me that the link you pointed out was full of it.
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Saying it was "full of it" doesn't make sense since the 52# at which you strung is simply at the top end of the spectrum recommended by that blog! :shock: "The absolute top end of that range would be 52 pounds."

You're doing what the blog recommended, enjoying the result, and then disagreeing with it.

I know the internet can bring out folk's combative side but this is just plain weird. :roll:
 
Power Player said:
Expensive tuning machine? You can just use racquettune, which uses string frequency to determine tension.

The blog is definitely not incorrect at all . If you use a full western grip and still can not control a Donnay racquet at low tensions, the issue is with you. I have a Donnay Black, it is strung with full poly at 46#s and I have had no issues at all.

Not saying it is for everybody, but it is definitely not incorrect by any means.
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You are going to compare a donnay black 18x20 94 sq.inch racket to the white which is a 99 sq. inch 16x19 pattern? Not exactly a good comparison. If the problem is me then why is it when i string it at 52 lbs. it plays very good but not in the low 40's?
 
tlm said:
You are going to compare a donnay black 18x20 94 sq.inch racket to the white which is a 99 sq. inch 16x19 pattern? Not exactly a good comparison. If the problem is me then why is it when i string it at 52 lbs. it plays very good but not in the low 40's?
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He's referring to the Black 99 which is a 16x20. So I think it's actually a pretty fair comparison.
 
TimothyO said:
Saying it was "full of it" doesn't make sense since the 52# at which you strung is simply at the top end of the spectrum recommended by that blog! :shock: "The absolute top end of that range would be 52 pounds."

You're doing what the blog recommended, enjoying the result, and then disagreeing with it.

I know the internet can bring out folk's combative side but this is just plain weird. :roll:
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Okay maybe i should have said that this info is questionable instead of full of it. You better read the blog again it specifically states to string from the 30's- 40's. How can you say the 52 is at the top end of the spectrum.Let me see they recommend 30's - 40's but in your numerical order 52 is in their recommendation. Wow you want to talk about weird, that makes no sense whatsoever.

Look i wanted this method to work, i get arm problems from poly pretty easy if the are to tight. So believe me i wish it was true, but it did not work out. In this same racket i use full multi set ups at 52lbs. with good results, so 52 is not low for this racket. Anything over 55lbs. in this racket it boards out+is dead, so 52 lbs. is not a low tension at all for this stick. So there is nothing weird about what i am saying. I followed their instructions exactly+it did not work.

Have you tried their method+had success with it? Or are you talking about it without even trying it? I am not saying it will not work for everyone, depending on what racket they use+what string. But it did not work for me, nothing weird about it.
 
ryushen21 said:
He's referring to the Black 99 which is a 16x20. So I think it's actually a pretty fair comparison.
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I did not see where he said it was a black 99, but you may be right. I demoed all the donnay x series rackets, believe me the black 99 was much lower powered than the white.
 
You did not read the blog properly. This is illustrated by your lack of knowledge. TimO was correct, 52#s is the upper limit of tension for this technique and was clearly stated in the blog.

Donnays are built to be strung with full poly in the 40s, as stated by multiple people including Kal-l in the thread.

If you can not even understand the proper tension range specified in the article, how are we supposed to believe you followed it "to the T?"

Regardless, you could do 50#s as long as you don't overpull with the dropweight. If you are going to tell me that you can handle 52#s, but not 50#s, we now know you are completely full of it.
 
Power Player said:
You did not read the blog properly. This is illustrated by your lack of knowledge. TimO was correct, 52#s is the upper limit of tension for this technique and was clearly stated in the blog.

Donnays are built to be strung with full poly in the 40s, as stated by multiple people including Kal-l in the thread.

If you can not even understand the proper tension range specified in the article, how are we supposed to believe you followed it "to the T?"

Regardless, you could do 50#s as long as you don't overpull with the dropweight. If you are going to tell me that you can handle 52#s, but not 50#s, we now know you are completely full of it.
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I think you are the one that needs to read it again. They were referring to using a electronic machine that they say over shoots the set tension at the beginning of the pull. Which they said that they dont want it to over shoot the tension above 52 lbs. Because this will cause over stretching, they are not saying in any way that 52lbs. is their top tension recommendation. Which does not mean anything to me because i am using a drop weight. Which they said to let the weight down very slow+easy so the string is not over stretched which is exactly what i did.

However in the specific stringing instructions is says to set your stringing machine between the 30's-40's. Nothing mentioned about 50's in the step by step instructions given.So this illustrates your lack of knowledge + reading comprehension. How can we believe that you followed their instructions correctly when you are comparing their instruction for using a pro electronic stringing machine while i am stringing with a drop weight?

Now you are saying that if i use 52lbs. then i could also use 50lbs. other wise i am full of it. I might be able to use this same set up at 50lbs. but cant say that for sure until i try it. But here we go again saying that 50lbs. is the same as 30-40lbs as specified in the article.
 
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tlm said:
Okay maybe i should have said that this info is questionable instead of full of it. You better read the blog again it specifically states to string from the 30's- 40's. How can you say the 52 is at the top end of the spectrum.Let me see they recommend 30's - 40's but in your numerical order 52 is in their recommendation. Wow you want to talk about weird, that makes no sense whatsoever.
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This is a direct quote from the blog: "We are talking a tension range in the 30′s – 40′s. The absolute top end of that range would be 52 pounds." So yes, 52 pounds is specifically recommended by the blog. Take another gander at it before spouting off.

Have you tried their method+had success with it? Or are you talking about it without even trying it? I am not saying it will not work for everyone, depending on what racket they use+what string. But it did not work for me, nothing weird about it.
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Yes, I have. I have not updated the thread but my experiments continue:

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=376780

Even my wife is trying this out. She uses a PB10 Mid with VS/Poly hybrid as her main stick. But this week we dusted off her old PB3 and strung it with Silverstring 17 / MSV CoFocus 18 at 48/45. I hit with it against the club wall and hit some serves. She's going to test it later this week. I don't like hoops over 95" and this is a whopping 110". Too little control imo. But it generated so much spin I can see it working well for some. It certainly has a lot of power which isn't for me, but it was definitely better than full multi.
 
tlm said:
I think you are the one that needs to read it again. They were referring to using a electronic machine that they say over shoots the set tension at the beginning of the pull. Which they said that they dont want it to over shoot the tension above 52 lbs. Which does not mean crap to me using a drop weight machine!

However in the specific stringing instructions is says to set your stringing machine between the 30's-40's. Nothing mentioned about 50's in the step by step instructions given.So this illustrates your lack of knowledge + reading comprehension. How can we believe that you followed their instructions correctly when you are comparing their instruction for using a pro electronic stringing machine while i am stringing with a drop weight?

Now you are saying that if i use 52lbs. then i could also use 50lbs. other wise i am full of it. I might be able to use this same set up at 50lbs. but cant say that for sure until i try it. But here we go again saying that 50lbs. is the same as 30-40lbs as specified in the article.
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Wow..how can you fail this hard? REREAD the blog. The max tension is 52#s. How can you not see this?

An electric dropweight overshoots, so they say to make sure not to overshoot -- wait for it - 52#s!!! So that is the high end of the tension range for this technique. they also say to set it for the lowest pulling speed as well.

He also reccomends to use ----- a dropweight!! wow..again, it seems as if you are missing key parts of this whole blog. The secret is to have constant pull on the string for no more than 52#s for 10 seconds before clamping.

Everyone else grasps this but you, and you had bad results when you attempted it. Go figure.
 
Power Player said:
Wow..how can you fail this hard? REREAD the blog. The max tension is 52#s. How can you not see this?

An electric dropweight overshoots, so they say to make sure not to overshoot -- wait for it - 52#s!!! So that is the high end of the tension range for this technique. they also say to set it for the lowest pulling speed as well.

He also reccomends to use ----- a dropweight!! wow..again, it seems as if you are missing key parts of this whole blog. The secret is to have constant pull on the string for no more than 52#s for 10 seconds before clamping.

Everyone else grasps this but you, and you had bad results when you attempted it. Go figure.
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Did you not read the instruction for this method were it specifically states to set your machine from the 30's-40's? You never mention this for some reason, it would seem like when the say to set your machine between 30-40 lbs. that 52lbs. would not be in their directions. In the beginning of the article it states that 52lbs. is the highest any poly should be strung, in the stringing instructions though it says to set your machine between 30's-40's? Please explain this for me you keep avoiding this point.

I never said that they dont recommend using a drop weight machine. How did you come up with that? I said that they said while using a drop weight machine to make sure+ let the weight down slowly. My point was that they were talking about over stretching the string with an electronic machine if it goes over 52 lbs. Which has nothing to do with me using a drop weight.
 
From the Blog :

"First of all, and perhaps the biggest obstacle to overcome, is to realize that poly-based strings are designed to perform best at lower tensions. We are talking a tension range in the 30′s – 40′s. The absolute top end of that range would be 52 pounds. Once you go beyond 52, you are entering the point of quickly diminishing returns."

How does this not make sense to you? What else do you need me to do to make you understand? Is there a spot where it "specifically says to set your machine to the 30-40s?" If so, please show us all where it is.

From reading that would you argue that you can not string at 48#s...50#s...52#s?

I hope I am still not "avoiding the point" and you finally understand the concept of not stringing poly over 52#s.
 
Select a tension in the upper 30′s – 40′s. The tension will vary according to density of stringbed and head size. (Note: It can be easily adjusted through observational learning. We’ll cover this in a future blog entry.)

2. Set pull speed to lowest possible setting when using an electronic constant pull machine. If using drop weight, lower bar slowly. If using a crank machine once machine starts to resist crank very, very slowly until it locks.

3. Allow string to sit under tension at least 5 seconds before clamping so that it has sufficient time to properly stretch.


The above is copied directly from the blog, please explain why these are the exact instructions of what tension to set your machine at upper 30's-40's. But yet you keep wanting to talk about 52 lbs.

These are their exact instructions, so i set my machine at 44lbs. Exactly like the instructions specified, they did not say high 30's-52 lbs. Read the instructions they are right above, then tell me how i was wrong. You ask me if there is a spot where it specifically says to set your machine to 30's-40's. Well there it is plain as day to anyone who can read, but i am sure that even though the above shows exactly what i have been saying you will still say that i don't understand. It sure appears that you are the one that does not understand their directions.
 
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Facepalm.

You like to argue over nothing. Kind of sad that you still do not see where he said the TOP end was 52#s. While he wants you to try in the 30s or 40s you can max out at 52#s. I quoted where he said it, explained it, and yet you still want to argue over it. Why? I have no idea..it's weird. I hope you enjoy "being right on the internet" because you are a lost cause for this technique apparently.

You can argue this all day to feel good about yourself, or just TRY IT OUT at 48 or 50#s. How hard can it be?
 
I string my blx six one tour at 66 lbs full poly solinco tour bite. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? Are polys not supposed to be this tight?
 
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