Discussion in 'Racquets' started by POGO, Jun 2, 2005.
Updated my Prince Graphite OS collection with 12pack Team Tour in black (limited edition).
This frame is truly the best I've ever played with - it suits my game down to a T; it's absolutely perfect for my flat, attacking forehand. Unfortunately I only play around once or twice a week during the winter, if that really, so the added control is really beneficial for me as I just have so much fun playing with an aggressive game style. The Luxilon ALU Power Rough which I am trying out for the first time is a lovely addition too; during today's game I could have sworn a huge number of rallying balls were going long, yet they just dipped in.
I just started trying out the racquet so I didnt´t play with string setups yet. Went with alu power at 50 lbs.
like those changs
Nice to get your feedback @D-Lite. I'm also really enjoying the DR98.
A mix between those must be a really nice frame, whats the strung w and sw? Nice to see newer brands stirring things up a bit with solid players frames.
Guess the angle mislead me a bit. That's a really classy pj - clean and timeless. Never hit with a SV PS85 unfortunately, only the later versions.
My current fascination for the week... both are LCS TF40
The Srixon is 315g, balanced at 305mm when unstrung. I don't have a precise scale but it should be between 330~334g strung. Feels quite maneuverable though.
Where is your collection, Senor Zapvor?
Never seen those models before. What an odd but fun design, what is the middle bar meant to do according to LCS and what do they call the "tech"?
Which one are u currently playing?
@Zodd I'm not sure how LCS marketed the innovation. But these French frames, such as ones from Lacoste and Rossignol do have useful and practical innovation when it comes to racquet designs. The TF40 plays quite plush and stable. Feels much like PT57A in a lot of ways. I just took one out for a hit this afternoon and it really packs quite a punch. Really fun frames.
What are your string setups that you'd recommend for Yonex Regna?I hit with it today with hybrid Babolat tonic+ and black code and I ended up over hitting half the time. Serves were right on the money and packs a punch though. The frame is quite powerful and feels like it returns all the kinetic energy. I like that aspect but I need to find a good string setup to balance it out to take advantage of it and not waste the power. Or I could just use some other low power frames instead. Any thoights? Thanks
Sounds nice. If it had been a modern stick i would have expected some way out there technical abbreviation and proposed revolutionary properties
@Zodd Some of these frames were designed to help players transition to graphite materials while retaining much of the wood racquet characteristics and feel. And I like the fact these innovations are shown physically, instead of just some made up marketing jargon (re: Babolat GT)
nice. "i do whatever i want!"
My first string setup was tonic main and MSV focus hex at 53LBS. I had exactly same problem. Too much power so I cut the natural gut then strung with full MSV focus hex @53 LBS main 50 lbs cross. Played much better. recently strung with Yonex poly tour spin 53lbs/50LBS and I prefer PTS than MSV slightly more. Probably I will use both MSV and PTS. If you like black code, string with your usual tension and see wether you like it or not.
I had unusually long adjustment period (6weeks). Be patient with Regna. More you play with Regna, you will understand unique characteristics and enjoy the racket.
Here's my beloved one. Wilson BLX Pro Staff Six.One 95 (2012), sanded down and re-painted. I also own a Wilson Pro Staff 6.0 85 (reissue) and Head Graphene Radical Pro. This PS 95 is my preferred one.
- Babolat VS Team - nat gut (mains) at 24 kg
- Luxilon Alu Power [ice blue] (crosses) at 22.5 kg (will switch to the Rough version just for better spin on serves)
Weight: 367 grams
In stock form this racquet - despite the great feel - seriously lacks power and also some stability. Now it's pure delight.
Weight was added in form of lead tape (tons of in the hoop, photos below) and two screws into the handle (~25 grams). By the way, removing the original paint (down to graphite) took off noticeable weight.
BP: ~31.8-32.0 cm
SW: ~360-370 ?
Stiffness was listed as 62 RA unstrung.
No "replacement" grip, but three overgrips over the bare handle (first two without overlap). Used double-sided tape b/w first OG and handle and b/w second and first OG. Third one is the only one actually used as an overgrip, wrapped normally.
Laser engraving! (first side)
Laser engraving (opposite side).
Lead tape placement in the hoop.
Tons of lead tape btw!
How many layers of tape is that? Three?!
At 3 & 9 o'clock maybe even four layers, I can't remember! Only one layer all throughout 12 o'clock. They however stick perfectly.
Wow... Do You know the swingweight?
I don't have the possibility to measure it with an RDC or similar. I used TW's suggested method and found something between 360 and 370, but I doubt it is very accurate.
Again, as said in the original post, removing the original paint down to graphite took off noticeable weight (and the new paint is considerably thinner). So I had to add all that weight in the hoop!
Franz$, That thing is awesome!! I wish I had the skill to do something like that!! Lol, I tried sanding a frame down and painting it, and it turned out horrible!!! After 3 tries of sanding it down, painting it, and then doing it all over again because it looked terrible, I threw it away. (It was a crappy aluminum test frame, luckily) How much time did it take for you to do that? I am in awe, of how awesome that is. I am about to google laser engraving Did you engrave it before you painted it, or after? Did you take pics along the way?
Thank you. Well, to be honest the result was not so good and you clearly see from the pics! It was my first attempt. Anyone with no experience (as I was) can get the same result (and possibly better) with just sandpaper, primer, desired paint, clear paint. And some patience. I followed (but semplified) the procedure explained in this interesting thread:
It took me about three-four weeks for all the job. Sanding down was a pain in the ass.
As for laser engraving, I have a laser marking machine at work (I'm not the owner btw) that we use on steel and just did an experiment. It was before the final coats of black paint (but you could do it before you put any paint).
I used the same thread!! I should have taken pics of what mine looked like!! Yours turned out significantly better than mine (I still have all the sandpaper, paint, and wetsanding stuff, in case I want to try it again.) My last attempt did get better, but the clear coat messed up, and I was defeated at that point.
I remember I waited at least two days before putting an additional layer of paint or clear paint. I believe the most important thing is layering many thin coats (which I didn't really!). But, before putting the primer, be sure to use a very light grit (I used 1200) for the final sanding and then remove all the powder/dirt that's left on the frame. Unfortunately I've got no pics of the job.
That is a sick sick sick creation. +1
Thanks for sharing. The laser engraving looks fantastic in my opinion. Can you share how you did that? You have impressive skills! I can see why you had to add so much lead to get to the specs that you wanted. That frame in stock form is obviously on the lighter side to begin with.
Yes, no secret about it. And no impressive skills! There's a laser marking machine in the factory I work in, something like this:
Which is used for laser marking (mainly) on steels (as in example below):
Very simple to use: it is controlled by a PC. You create a vector image file (I did it with an online converter with the Wilson logos), decide the marking position, other parameters as laser power, speed, etc. It is an industrial machine, there might be some more compact versions but they will be expensive anyway, I think.
I made an experiment on my tennis racquet and I got the nice engraving, but at first I supposed it would mark in white over black, but it only works so on blackened steel. I like the different result however!
Not so light actually. Weight was listed as 313 grams unstrung I believe, but I remember mine was 348 grams with strings and overgrip. I added so much lead tape because sanding down the hoop took off noticeable weight. Then, I wanted a slightly less HL balance. Then again, I think extraneous weight added to the racquet makes for a nice additional flex.
Awesome job! Looks like a Lockheed black budget project
If I may, I suggest you name it the Wilson Stealth Bomber 6.1 - bet you can make an awesome logo of that and engrave it as well
Finally i just want to know which address to ship my frames to so they can get the FranzS treatment as well
it needs to be organized....i should post some pics huh
Very cool. I will admire from afar! Maybe our own PeterFig will have something like this in future Wilson designs!
Lets see this amazing collection
haha its not amazing man i dont have what vsbabolat approves
What does vsbabolat approve?
100yr old head molds
You really don't know me at all.
the Lord loves a Pure Drive ...
^^^^ How do you like the TW bag?
actually it aint half bad. better than the "free" yonex bag theyve been giving out. and you get to rep T-dub everywhere you go.
I've gotten to where I just use a backpack though. pop a couple speed pros or a pure drive in it, along with a couple beers, and im ready for a 2.5 league match.
Here's a cool project of mine - found an i.radical mp in a garage sale for $20. Frame was almost in flawless shape, except for broken strings and had no grip on it. Looked to me like original owner had left in the trunk of his car or some other oven-like place, because the handle was CAKED with sticky black rubber.
Scraped the handle for an hour (I still can't get the stuff fully off my hands), replaced with TW leather grip.
Pro stock buttcap with trapdoor.
CAP grommets from microgel prestige mp set. This was an absolute chore to get on. Took me a good 80 minutes of only working on the last 4 holes - I actually think the grommet barrels were too large for the holes drilled into the frame, would not recommend using this set if you are attempting this. I had to use a heat gun, squish the grommets down to size, and then use an awl to re-expand once I got them through the frame (and I had to tube one of them because I basically broke it off in a head shaking cursing moment). If I ever have to replace these I'd try a different set. Possibly graphene prestige MP since thats also 21mm beam.
10g of blutac in the handle to get to these specs: 341g, 32cm, 330SW. A bit of a lightweight but this is mainly a racquet I'll use for fun anyway. I am still in love with my 315LTDs.
Definitely not the best leather grip job I've ever done but I didn't staple the end..... So it slid off a little bit. First world problems when you get this frame for $20 haha
wow. where did you get these
@zapvor from France The white LCS TF40 was a really lucky find.
The Dragon Twins are asleep... for now
TeXtreme 95's w/ Solinco Outlast 18 @ 55lbs
I already love Khaleesi, but if she comes with these dragons, there is no holding back anymore!
Sexy beasts... What are they?
Separate names with a comma.