Prince Neos 1000 Glide Bar Alignment

#1
Hello Everyone,

I am having alignment problems with my glide bar getting stuck while stringing. I have to push one side to loosen it up so I can move the clamps to the next clamping position. Problem started when I loosened up the screws and tried to tighten the alignment.

I tried searching YouTube for a video on a proper way to align it but it seems none exist.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
#2
First thing to do always with the Neos is to make sure the machine is clean. So in this case, make sure both the slides and the slots (i.e., the tracks) are completely clean--use alcohol and small brush/toothbrush and/or Q-tips on the slots and just a rag on the slides. If it still does not slide right, adjust the bars as indicated on p. 23 of the Neos 1000 owners manual. If all of that doesn't work, you can try a small amount of lubricant but that is a last resort. But remember, clean first, adjust second and avoid lubricants if you can.
 
#3
Loosen the one rail end support, press down on glide bar so rail end supports are flush with turntable, tighten rail support end while pressing down on bar.
 
#4
I had a similar problem with my glide bars because there was too much play (used machine with well worn bars). I had some advice from JC at Tennis Machines and forum here that helped.

First make sure the bars are level. Loosen screws at end of bar and push down to level the feet. Tighten screws.

Next align the steel feet. The manual gives some clearance value but I never figured out how to use a feeler to adjust. I slightly looosened the screws on the feet, slid the bar back and forth so it glides smoothly and then tightened the screws. You may have to adjust a few times.

Finally, on a forum member's suggestion, I greased the steel feet. That took out the friction that would cause it to bind. I used a small amount of lithium grease and it glides much more smoothly now.

Hope that helps.
 
#8
^^^^^^^^^
Been there, done that for the exact same reason! It seems logical that the end screws are the problem, but they are not (ever).
 
#10
I agree with you how could the screws cause the problem?
It's been a while...the screws in the feet of the glide rail are what keep them at a continuous angle. When you loosen and then push down and tighten, then you realign it correctly. I'll look at a glide assembley when next I'm around a 1000 if I remember to.
 
#11
It's been a while...the screws in the feet of the glide rail are what keep them at a continuous angle. When you loosen and then push down and tighten, then you realign it correctly. I'll look at a glide assembley when next I'm around a 1000 if I remember to.
I think we're saying the same thing.
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
#12
It's been a while...the screws in the feet of the glide rail are what keep them at a continuous angle. When you loosen and then push down and tighten, then you realign it correctly. I'll look at a glide assembly when next I'm around a 1000 if I remember to.
That is correct. The OP's issue should be pretty easy to fix--clean (per my post above), put the bars back on the machine (you may need to loosen the screws in holding the bars in place), make sure the bars are parallel, and then adjust the slides/feet (loosen the screws under the slides) to make sure that the glide bar assembly moves freely--Prince recommends an end clearance of 0.010-0.015" (0.25-0.35mm)--but don't measure unless you really feel you have to, just make sure they move freely and then tighten all of the screws while preserving the "moving freely" positons (bars and feet).
 
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#13
Prince recommends an end clearance of 0.010-0.015" (0.25-0.35mm)--but don't measure unless you really feel you have to, just make sure they move freely and then tighten all of the screws while preserving the "moving freely" positons (bars and feet).
How would you measure the clearance anyway? I've done valve adjustments on motorcycles using flat metal feeler gauges but I have no clue how you would measure the clearance as suggested here.
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
#14
^^^I have no idea--I was parroting the manual. Besides, the measurements are largely irrelevant--it either slides correctly or it doesn't. I was really trying to start an argument between the 0.010" camp and the 0.015" camp.
 
#15
Thank you to all that replied, I finally got it right, it moves smooth as silk now.

I followed Max Ply's suggestion to make sure everything is clean, aligned the glide bars as per Irvin's instructions and finally aligned the steel feet as per despectacled's way, also added little amount of lithium grease just to coat the rails and steel feet.

I was surprised how it moved now, it glides without friction. Thank you again!
 
#17
Thank you to all that replied, I finally got it right, it moves smooth as silk now.

I followed Max Ply's suggestion to make sure everything is clean, aligned the glide bars as per Irvin's instructions and finally aligned the steel feet as per despectacled's way, also added little amount of lithium grease just to coat the rails and steel feet.

I was surprised how it moved now, it glides without friction. Thank you again!
I would clean all the grease off the rails and the clamps. Grease can cause all sorts of problems.
 
#19
But it makes it slide so smoothly.
True it will but the purpose of the bar is to hold the clamp. Of it slides too easy you need to tighten the clamp more so it does not slide on the bar. Then there is always the string touching the bar over and over while you string getting gease on the string. Then you clamp the string and that small build up is on the clamp teeth too. It's best to clean the bar and clamp very well and not to apply any lube.
 
#20
True it will but the purpose of the bar is to hold the clamp. Of it slides too easy you need to tighten the clamp more so it does not slide on the bar. Then there is always the string touching the bar over and over while you string getting gease on the string. Then you clamp the string and that small build up is on the clamp teeth too. It's best to clean the bar and clamp very well and not to apply any lube.
Ah I see the misunderstanding. I didn't apply grease to the bar, just the feet so the assembly slides smoothly in the grooves. I could see how greasing the bar could cause problems.
 
#21
Ah I see the misunderstanding. I didn't apply grease to the bar, just the feet so the assembly slides smoothly in the grooves. I could see how greasing the bar could cause problems.
Ok but maybe a good cleaning with Safariland CLP would be best there too. You can find it in the gun section of Walmart.
 
#22
Ok but maybe a good cleaning with Safariland CLP would be best there too. You can find it in the gun section of Walmart.
Maybe, but I cleaned the turntable channels and metal feet with rubbing alcohol with no improvement. Next I cleaned with brake cleaner but still no improvement. So I figured that I would have to replace the feet or maybe upgrade to swivel clamps or live with it as is.

But at another forum member's suggestion (thread here: Advantages of Neos 1000 > Gamma x-6fc) I used a bit of grease on the feet and wow, the improvement was fantastic. It was now worthy of the name glide bar. IMO the clean only routine works if the feet are not too worn. But that wasn't my situation. So if you have worn feet and binding glide bars, it's worth trying. Your machine, your call. Do or not do.
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
#23
For what it's worth, a small amount of lubricant on the slides/track is probably fine. There used to be a product called "Glide Slide" (formerly available from Tim Strawn's site) that was for that very purpose. I tried it once out of curiosity and it worked well but never have really had the need to use it. As long as you don't get on the clamps or glidebars themselves, you will be ok. Just watch for any dirt/dust/gunk it may attract. Glad it worked out.
 
#26
Just got an used Neos, and I am fine tuning the glide bar.

I would like to keep the free play as little as possible. I think as long as it glide smoothly, a little extra resistance is fine with me. Hopefully that will keep the tension more consistent.
What's your opinion on that?

Also any one know what the "end clearance of 0.010-0.015" (0.25-0.35mm)" really referring to in the manual? and how to measure it?

I found when I wiggle either end of the bar up and down, there is a little play, but that is caused by difference of the thickness of the foot piece and the width of the gliding slot, therefore not adjustable.
This will get worse with more wears.
I noticed that the gliding end of the foot plate is a little tapered (just a tiny bit), is that normal? or is it due to too much wear on mine?
Maybe buy a set of foot plates for backup if possible?

Thanks.
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
#27
I believe the "end clearance" is speaking to the distance from the edge of the slide/"foot plate" and the wall of the slot itself. I have never attempted to measure it (and that seems impractical)--I have always just adjusted them by feel to make sure the inside of the slot is not grabbing the slide too tightly and the bar moves smoothly in the slots. Generally, the key is keeping the slides and the slots clean. I have never noticed a "taper" on the slide and I suppose they do wear over time. That stated, I have never, ever had to replace a foot plate on a well maintained machine (I have replaced them on used machines I have reconditioned where they were just too rusted or corroded).
 
#28
I believe the "end clearance" is speaking to the distance from the edge of the slide/"foot plate" and the wall of the slot itself. I have never attempted to measure it (and that seems impractical)--I have always just adjusted them by feel to make sure the inside of the slot is not grabbing the slide too tightly and the bar moves smoothly in the slots. Generally, the key is keeping the slides and the slots clean. I have never noticed a "taper" on the slide and I suppose they do wear over time. That stated, I have never, ever had to replace a foot plate on a well maintained machine (I have replaced them on used machines I have reconditioned where they were just too rusted or corroded).
Thanks. Wondering why one foot plate is very wide, and the other is very slim.
Seems you can put them in either way while stringing. Nothing got blocked.
 
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