tennisnoob1949
Rookie
Given this is meant to be strung 2 piece, what length should I divide my 40ft is string into ? Also, wondering if this is even possible with 40ft of string using a basic gamma stringer ?
Prince phantom pro 100 18x20 string lengths
- Thread starter tennisnoob1949
- Start date
The USRSA digest lists to use 20'M and 20' Cross strings for lengths for the racquet that you listed.
The lengths that they typically list are normally pretty generous for most racquets.
If you want to be extra safe on lengths, you can always start mains as a 1 piece by putting 10 feet on one side and after all mains in then cut main string on long side, then you will have even more than the 20 feet that is listed for crosses for the 2 piece job. But in reality, 20'x20' should do it.
The lengths that they typically list are normally pretty generous for most racquets.
If you want to be extra safe on lengths, you can always start mains as a 1 piece by putting 10 feet on one side and after all mains in then cut main string on long side, then you will have even more than the 20 feet that is listed for crosses for the 2 piece job. But in reality, 20'x20' should do it.
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Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
Basic Gamma Stringer? I assume a DW. If I assume correctly you will need 10.5’ on the short side. Unless you’re using poly it could take more. When you tie off the mains you will have 0 waste that will leave you max string for the crosses and if you use a starting knot for the top cross 40’ is plenty.
@tennisnoob1949,
To give you a worthy answer, we really need more info from you first (since these are variables that are important to take into consideration).
So far, we already know 2 pieces of info needed - 100" and 18x20. So...
3) Exactly what machine are you using? More importantly, on your machine, exactly how many inches of string are required (when making final pulls) to reach the back of the gripper on your tension head? My machine only requires about 12" to reach the rear of my linear gripper, but yours may require more than that - particularly if you have a rotational gripper.
Mount your frame, then run a scrap piece of string out of 11T (where your outer mains will exit) all the way through your gripper. Measure the (minimum) length needed to do accomplish that and let us know how many inches it is.
Repeat this procedure, with the scrap string exiting from 8H (where your top cross will exit) and, again, from 8T (where your bottom cross will exit). Tell us how many inches were needed for each of those to reach the rear of your gripper.
4) Exactly what string are you planning to use (the amount of stretch from one string to another varies greatly and, therefore, will affect the lengths of string required greatly).
For example (on my machine), with a stretchy multifilament, I might only need 19'6" to string the (18) mains.
With a stiff co-poly (or kevlar), I might need 21'6" to string those same (18) mains.
5) Do you have a starting clamp? If so, this can be used, if/when necessary, to bridge a short string over to your gripper.
6) Exactly how long is your "set" of string? Don't assume it's 40 feet - actually measure it out. Oftentimes, a "set" of string is less than 40'. Sometimes, they are more than 40'.
Before you get started, you better know exactly what you're working with. It can/could make the difference between the job being possible, or impossible.
Jim_e's suggestion is certainly in good faith. However, (with all due respect to Jim!) you could still have some issues arise.
Sure... if your machine only needs 10" to reach the back of the gripper, and/or you're using a stretchy string, you very well may be solid with 20' for those 18 mains.
However, if your machine requires 22" to reach the back of the (rotational) gripper, and/or you're using a stiff string with little stretch, you better rethink that 20' for those 18 mains.
After all... when stringing poly, I typically need 18'9" for a 100" frame with 16 mains. For 18 (poly) mains, I'd need to add at least another 18" to that... putting me at 20'3".
And keep in mind... the back of my linear gripper is only 12" away. If I had to get through a rotational gripper a mile away, I'd probably need something in the neighborhood of 22' for 18 (poly) mains.
I just think that 10' recommendation (for 18 mains) may not be enough for that Short Side on the 1pc. method (depending on the factors already covered).
I'd probably be a little more generous for that length on that Short Side.
It's the 18 mains that you should be concerned about 20' not being enough for - not the 20 crosses.
You'll still have plenty remaining to do those crosses. Even if you are using poly, it's unlikely that you'd need 20' for the 20 crosses.
For example, I only need 18'6" for 20 (poly) crosses on a 100" frame (and that's using a starting clamp on the top cross, rather than a starting knot).
As you can see, there are a number of variables in play (a "set" of string being less than 40'... using stiff string with little stretch... not having a starting clamp at your disposal to potentially bridge with... a rotational gripper requiring more string length) that any/all of which can conspire against you to make a string job more difficult, or downright impossible, depending on exactly what you have to work with.
Concerned about 100" 18x20? Try to imagine an oversize frame with an 18x21 pattern.
@tennisnoob1949,
Come back, with your answers to the above queries, and we'll get you all sorted out.
Hey Jim, don't shoot me!
Cheers,
Wes
To give you a worthy answer, we really need more info from you first (since these are variables that are important to take into consideration).
So far, we already know 2 pieces of info needed - 100" and 18x20. So...
3) Exactly what machine are you using? More importantly, on your machine, exactly how many inches of string are required (when making final pulls) to reach the back of the gripper on your tension head? My machine only requires about 12" to reach the rear of my linear gripper, but yours may require more than that - particularly if you have a rotational gripper.
Mount your frame, then run a scrap piece of string out of 11T (where your outer mains will exit) all the way through your gripper. Measure the (minimum) length needed to do accomplish that and let us know how many inches it is.
Repeat this procedure, with the scrap string exiting from 8H (where your top cross will exit) and, again, from 8T (where your bottom cross will exit). Tell us how many inches were needed for each of those to reach the rear of your gripper.
4) Exactly what string are you planning to use (the amount of stretch from one string to another varies greatly and, therefore, will affect the lengths of string required greatly).
For example (on my machine), with a stretchy multifilament, I might only need 19'6" to string the (18) mains.
With a stiff co-poly (or kevlar), I might need 21'6" to string those same (18) mains.
5) Do you have a starting clamp? If so, this can be used, if/when necessary, to bridge a short string over to your gripper.
6) Exactly how long is your "set" of string? Don't assume it's 40 feet - actually measure it out. Oftentimes, a "set" of string is less than 40'. Sometimes, they are more than 40'.
Before you get started, you better know exactly what you're working with. It can/could make the difference between the job being possible, or impossible.
Jim_e's suggestion is certainly in good faith. However, (with all due respect to Jim!) you could still have some issues arise.
I wouldn't necessarily agree wholeheartedly with that. First, I wouldn't put too much faith in suggested lengths (they don't know what type of string [stretch] you're working with.
Sure... if your machine only needs 10" to reach the back of the gripper, and/or you're using a stretchy string, you very well may be solid with 20' for those 18 mains.
However, if your machine requires 22" to reach the back of the (rotational) gripper, and/or you're using a stiff string with little stretch, you better rethink that 20' for those 18 mains.
After all... when stringing poly, I typically need 18'9" for a 100" frame with 16 mains. For 18 (poly) mains, I'd need to add at least another 18" to that... putting me at 20'3".
And keep in mind... the back of my linear gripper is only 12" away. If I had to get through a rotational gripper a mile away, I'd probably need something in the neighborhood of 22' for 18 (poly) mains.
The strategy Jim is proposing is spot on - regarding maximizing the length of string you're working with (again, may be VERY important if your "set" is, let's say, only 38' long!).
I just think that 10' recommendation (for 18 mains) may not be enough for that Short Side on the 1pc. method (depending on the factors already covered).
I'd probably be a little more generous for that length on that Short Side.
It's the 18 mains that you should be concerned about 20' not being enough for - not the 20 crosses.
You'll still have plenty remaining to do those crosses. Even if you are using poly, it's unlikely that you'd need 20' for the 20 crosses.
For example, I only need 18'6" for 20 (poly) crosses on a 100" frame (and that's using a starting clamp on the top cross, rather than a starting knot).
Again, I wouldn't bet on that 20' for 18 mains. If your mains are poly/co-poly, it's unlikely 20' (or a 10' Short Side) will be enough to reach the gripper.
As you can see, there are a number of variables in play (a "set" of string being less than 40'... using stiff string with little stretch... not having a starting clamp at your disposal to potentially bridge with... a rotational gripper requiring more string length) that any/all of which can conspire against you to make a string job more difficult, or downright impossible, depending on exactly what you have to work with.
Concerned about 100" 18x20? Try to imagine an oversize frame with an 18x21 pattern.
@tennisnoob1949,
Come back, with your answers to the above queries, and we'll get you all sorted out.
Hey Jim, don't shoot me!
Cheers,
Wes
tennisnoob1949
Rookie
Appreciate the responses.
Many machines do not come with a starting clamp.
Does not mean that op does not have one, or can't purchase one. I would not want to string without one. I purchased 3 of them as they come in handy. I have one set up just as a bridge for when I come up short.
tennisnoob1949
Rookie
I do have a starting clamp, and I have had to use it as a bridge in the past when stringing the pt280 (95 sq in, 18x20). Sounds like this will be required on this racquet as well
esgee48
Legend
2nd method! Do not cut the string. Prestring the short side mains and make sure you have enough to reach the gripper. Install and tension all the the mains. Cut after you have tied off the mains. This will save at least 2-2 ½ feet. Use starting knot to start crosses. If I were doing this frame, and not hybriding, I would do an ATW and I know 40' is more than enough.
tennisnoob1949
Rookie
Appreciate it ! Is atw usually considered acceptable in frames where 2 piece is recommended ?
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
If I were to string that racket on my X2 (or my Star 5) I would for sure use an ATW pattern. If you’re using same string in the mains and crosses it’s a no brainer. Stringing ATW does use the least string but starting without cutting string only uses about 2” more.
tennisnoob1949
Rookie
Quick question - what are the tie offs for the Prince Phantom Pro 100 18x20? I just bought a new one from TW, and they've used 7-Throat for the mains, and 5-Throat/7-Head for the crosses. Is this right?
Folsom_Stringer_Musa
Semi-Pro
I would take 18+1 = 19 measure of center mains for mains and the rest for cross.
Since the string is not specified, max x19.5 of center mains would be enough for mains.
If you want to be sure: before cutting the string, measure how many cross you get by measuring against center cross of the remaining string.
If it is 21 or above you will be fine.
My machine has linear gripper and fairly close to the mount.
Please share your concern.
Cheers.
Since the string is not specified, max x19.5 of center mains would be enough for mains.
If you want to be sure: before cutting the string, measure how many cross you get by measuring against center cross of the remaining string.
If it is 21 or above you will be fine.
My machine has linear gripper and fairly close to the mount.
Please share your concern.
Cheers.
tennisnoob1949
Rookie
The post around string lengths was an older post
my concern now is what the correct tie off holes are for this racquet (see my message from earlier today).
Folsom_Stringer_Musa
Semi-Pro
Sorry posted wrong image. This one is 18x20The post around string lengths was an older post
my concern now is what the correct tie off holes are for this racquet (see my message from earlier today).
Will this help? BTW: This is not the one I did but looks good.
Red circles are for mains and blue circles are for cross.
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tennisnoob1949
Rookie
Thanks for the pic. However this is the 16x18 version, where mains end at the top. The one I have is the 18/20 where mains end at the bottom.
TW strung it up, but the tie off holes they used seem a little unnatural to me, so I was checking if there’s any official guidance from Price on this racquet
tennisnoob1949
Rookie
This would have been my guess too; it’s strange though that TW used different tie offs. I wonder why ...
I’ll check on the markings though, good idea... (don’t have the racquet with me right now).
tennisnoob1949
Rookie
Checked on the racquet, no markings to indicate tie offs. When I restring I think I’m going to try the tie offs you suggest.
No, that doesn't sound right. If they tied off the mains at 7T, then they (unnecessarily) created a double blocked hole at 8T (where the bottom cross would be installed later).
5T definitely sounds bizarre for the bottom cross. That would be the very last grommet hole in the grommet strip.
To me, sounds like the stringer wasn't very thoughtful, and simply chose to wing it and just made things happen wherever/however they could.
Now, I could see how 7H might seem correct, but I think the top cross is supposed to tie at 9H (see more below).
I believe the correct tie-offs should be 9T for the mains (which, incidentally, also happens to prevent the double blocked grommet at 8T mentioned above).
So, essentially, the outer mains get tied off onto the penultimate mains.
I also believe the correct tie-offs should be 9H for the top cross (again, onto the 8th/penultimate main) and 7T for the bottom cross (which is the 7th main).
Take a look (from the outside of the frame) through these particular holes.
See if they appear to have slightly more interior space available (especially while there are no strings in the racquet at all) than the other grommets on the frame.
I feel pretty confident in the locations I've mentioned, but take a close look to verify them.
Cheers,
Wes
Folsom_Stringer_Musa
Semi-Pro
I corrected the image from prince website.
BTW:
One of my friend who bought this racket is not that happy with it.
He will sell it and go back to PS V13.
tennisnoob1949
Rookie
I’ve played 2 sessions with it and am very happy with the performance. Feel wise, i may like it marginally less than my all time No.1 for feel (Tec Limited 2013), but this racquet is quite soft and has plenty of power, at least for
my game.