Pro Stringer 3.0 w/ Module X 6 Point Mount

[Sammy Hernandez]

Hi All - I'm a new member as of yesterday (?), and a lurker for several months. I've strung racquets since ~~1985, starting on a Klipper Mate in high school, first for myself, and then for fellow team mates, continuing onto floor models in pro shops and sporting goods stores (Ektelon, Prince, etc.)


I just bought the Pro-Stringer 3.0 with the Module X 6 point mount. I haven't used the 2.0 tension head, so I don't have a baseline for comparison, but here are my thoughts in case anyone is thinking about getting one of these:

1. 3.0 Tension Head:
   1. The 3.0 tension head works well. It has the ability to perform the "buttcap pull" rather than pulling at an angle through the throat by turning the string guide over. I personally prefer to pull at the throat.
   2. The string guide on the 3.0 head is designed to work with Module X mount points by being able to index off of the frame "around" each of the mount points.
   3. I found the tension head to perform consistently, and the placement of the tensioning button made it easy to use the same hand to put the string in the tension jaws and hit the tension button in one motion.
2. Module X Frame Mount System:
   1. The Module X system holds the racquet well.
   2. It goes together pretty easily, but obviously takes more time to assemble than the 2 point mount system
   3. Working around the side supports is as easy or easier than other 4-6 point mount systems as the "C holders" are very narrow/don't get in the way at all.
   4. I personally prefer not clamping the frame in place (which obviously is required on a 2-point mount system)
3. Claws 2.0
   1. Great clamps
   2. Tool-less adjustment (uses thumbscrews like most fixed clamps, rather than Phillips head screwdriver)
   3. They hold the strings very well without excessive pressure / deformation of the strings.
   4. They do seem to loosen slightly over time (not unlike other fixed and floating clamps), so periodic re-tightening is needed

After stringing with multifilament at 55# on an oversize racquet (Prince CTS Blast 110 -- my old tester ), checking the tension against Stringster measured it dead-on at 55#. I know that the smartphone apps can be a little finicky, but I was pleasantly surprised at the test result.

I felt comfortable and confident stringing with the machine. I've done a total of 3 racquets on it, and the results are good and consistent. The clamps are better than any floating clamps I've used in the past. I don't feel that I'm really lacking when from a quality of work product standpoint compared to a tabletop / floor model -- the tension head is accurate, the 6 point mount is stable & safe, and the clamps hold really well w/out string deformation.

Please feel free to ask any questions you might have as I'm sure I've missed a few things.

And thanks again for having me. I've really enjoyed the forum.

 

[Wes]

@Sammy Hernandez,

Hey there Sammy. Welcome to the forums!

Overall, good comments on your experience with it thus far.

I have a couple questions for you (really just more of a curiosity)... whilst weaving the crosses, did you feel you have enough room for whichever hand you have below the string bed?
A lot of these atypically designed stringing machines seem like they restrict how much space one has to work below the string bed. So, just how "fiddly" did you find it to be in actual use?

Also, since you have experience on a wide array of other machines, would you say that your stringing time with the Pro Stringer was slower, faster, or about the same as when stringing on machines of a typical design?

BTW, the CTS Blast was a Prince frame, not Wilson.

 

[Sammy Hernandez]

Hi Wes - Thanks. OMG can't believe I called it a Wilson. Thanks for calling that out - correcting that in the post.

So I could use either hand below the stringbed without issue.

I didn't find it fiddly, per se: I would normally weave string all the way across without repositioning my hands, but with the Pro-Stringer, in the middle third of the crosses, it's possible to weave all the way across, but fairly unwieldy, to be honest. It's easier to weave half way across, pull some more slack, reposition your hands, and then finish the path.

So you're definitely not going to compete from a time standpoint with a fixed clamp machine that's either a spring or constant pull tensioner. Each pull is going to require you to move the tension head out of the way, and bring it back to the frame for the next tension pull. Also, fixed clamps will always win on speed.

However, if I were to compare it to a DW with either fixed or floating clamps, I'd say it's at least as fast as a fixed clamp DW stringer, but definitely faster than one with floating clamps.

I would not recommend it as a full-time production machine (10-20 racquets/day), but for intermittent & travel use, I think it's great for that application.

My plans for current use are for my personal use, friends & family, and some light "side work". My current home / garage setup doesn't allow for me to have it sitting in a permanent place, and the ability to travel with it is appealing as well.

I hope this help, and thanks for the questions.

 

[Sammy Hernandez]

Here it is on a TV table (I don't recommend it - too easy for the $$ tension head to fall off):

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[crobison]

I am looking at purchasing one of these Pro Stringer machines with the 6 point, I have a Klipper Mate with the stand and I actually replaced the clamps with Pro Stringer clamps and I feel my tension is more consistent. My question(s) are the following:

1) I see sometimes in the review videos that the racquet is pretty wobbly when clamped, is that normal?
2) Do you think there is any difference in quality of the string job? compared to the Klipper Mate?
3) When you string multifilament on the klipper mate you have to pull more, because the string is softer, how does it work with the Pro Stringer.
4) Have you checked the accuracy of the tension registered with the pro string and one of these tension check devices (Stringmeter, etc)?

Thx

Charles

 

[crobison]

Does anyone know where you can get a discount coupon for purchasing the Pro Stringer?

Thx

 

[Tennis_dude101]

Nice review, I personally prefer the 2 point mount on my Pro Stringer, I strung 100's of racquets of various sizes and shapes and have never had an issue with it.

TD

 

[Tennis_dude101]

I am looking at purchasing one of these Pro Stringer machines with the 6 point, I have a Klipper Mate with the stand and I actually replaced the clamps with Pro Stringer clamps and I feel my tension is more consistent. My question(s) are the following:

1) I see sometimes in the review videos that the racquet is pretty wobbly when clamped, is that normal?

I don't find the racquet wobbly when clamped with my 2 point mount. the tensioner is positioned against the frame so it is very stable.

2) Do you think there is any difference in quality of the string job? compared to the Klipper Mate?

IMO with care both the PS and KM should both produce quality string jobs, the PS will do it easier as it is electric constant pull vs the drop weight. The Claw clamps will also do a better job than the KM clamps.

3) When you string multifilament on the klipper mate you have to pull more, because the string is softer, how does it work with the Pro Stringer.

Stringing Multi on the PS will be easier than the KM as there is no drop weight to worry about getting level.

4) Have you checked the accuracy of the tension registered with the pro string and one of these tension check devices (Stringmeter, etc)?

I've been using my PS for 10 years now and for myself and others that I strung for the tension accuracy has never been an issue.

Thx

Charles

Cheers,
TD

 

[Tennis_dude101]

Does anyone know where you can get a discount coupon for purchasing the Pro Stringer?

Thx

I have seen discounts before, normally around Xmas or Black Friday sales. Best follow PS on FB to get them....

 

[takayukih]

I have seen discounts before, normally around Xmas or Black Friday sales. Best follow PS on FB to get them....

I've been using Pro-Stringer since 2018 and been loving them. I switched to the new 3.0 version from the 2.0 last year and had little issues with it. Here's a video of me using the machine stringing a friend's racket.

 

[fritzhimself]

I've been using Pro-Stringer since 2018 and been loving them. I switched to the new 3.0 version from the 2.0 last year and had little issues with it. Here's a video of me using the machine stringing a friend's racket.

I always like the way you are bombarded with “hidden” advertisements.
Well, there are many better stringing videos - at least you show us that you use an awl. That's actually a no-go and in the case you're using it, it's just a placebo.
Just like with min 12"15, you clamp the first cross string on itself - that makes no sense at all.
I hope you get your 10,000 likes from people who like it - for me it's another rejection of such a portable stringing machine.

 

[AndrewUtz]

I always like the way you are bombarded with “hidden” advertisements.
Well, there are many better stringing videos - at least you show us that you use an awl. That's actually a no-go and in the case you're using it, it's just a placebo.
Just like with min 12"15, you clamp the first cross string on itself - that makes no sense at all.
I hope you get your 10,000 likes from people who like it - for me it's another rejection of such a portable stringing machine.

if someone wanted to garner likes and clicks, uploading a video of a super niche tennis stringing machine has to be close to one of the worst ways i can think of.

 

[Sardines]

I've been using Pro-Stringer since 2018 and been loving them. I switched to the new 3.0 version from the 2.0 last year and had little issues with it. Here's a video of me using the machine stringing a friend's racket.

I have to admit I didn't watch the entire video, and FFWD a lot. Interesting technique with the double first pull. I've found that drops tension a bit, and compounded with the staggered clamping of the first 2 mains, the tension needs to be adjusted for that.
Something to consider Re: the staggered clamping: The nice thing about the Claws 2.0 is that you don't have to stagger clamp when stringing mains. The starting clamp is already holding the 1st main , so you can release that clamp once you have pulled the 3rd right main string and clamp that string, from underneath. Then all you have to do it clamp the left 1st main from the top, then remove the starting clamp. You will notice the pull back is a lot less because of the friction, and each string tension will be more even.
Using a starting pin will eliminate the need for double pulling the first mains. You can make your own with 15g steel fencing wire or even old string tied with a super dead knot. Alternatively, Klip sells their starter pin, but it's just steel wire with clamp end and rubber tubing. I would buy a cheap friction only flying clamp for a steel pin option, because the steel will eat up the dust grip of the Claws.

 

[takayukih]

I have to admit I didn't watch the entire video, and FFWD a lot. Interesting technique with the double first pull. I've found that drops tension a bit, and compounded with the staggered clamping of the first 2 mains, the tension needs to be adjusted for that.
Something to consider Re: the staggered clamping: The nice thing about the Claws 2.0 is that you don't have to stagger clamp when stringing mains. The starting clamp is already holding the 1st main , so you can release that clamp once you have pulled the 3rd right main string and clamp that string, from underneath. Then all you have to do it clamp the left 1st main from the top, then remove the starting clamp. You will notice the pull back is a lot less because of the friction, and each string tension will be more even.
Using a starting pin will eliminate the need for double pulling the first mains. You can make your own with 15g steel fencing wire or even old string tied with a super dead knot. Alternatively, Klip sells their starter pin, but it's just steel wire with clamp end and rubber tubing. I would buy a cheap friction only flying clamp for a steel pin option, because the steel will eat up the dust grip of the Claws.

Thanks for the constructive criticism! You make good points and I'll try that when I string later this month! I did think about the starting pin from Klippermate but internally can't justify spending $5+ on a simple pin. However, I'll try release the clamp after the 3rd right main string.

 

[Irvin]

However, I'll try release the clamp after the 3rd right main string.

I would move the clamp on the center 2 mains after tensioning the center to mains. Then you won’t have to stagger your clamps after tensioning the 3rd main. After tensioning the 4th main them remove the starting clamp and rec lamp the center 2 mains.

Consider starting youbcrosses the same was so you don’t have to clamp a single cross at a time.

 

[Wes]

Here's a video of me using the machine stringing a friend's racket.

@takayukih,
There are a number of things that could be improved upon.

I have to admit I didn't watch the entire video, and FFWD a lot. Interesting technique with the double first pull. I've found that drops tension a bit, and compounded with the staggered clamping of the first 2 mains, the tension needs to be adjusted for that.
Something to consider Re: the staggered clamping: The nice thing about the Claws 2.0 is that you don't have to stagger clamp when stringing mains.

Actually, there's no need to even stagger the clamps (regardless of whether one owns Claws or some other type of clamps).

I continually see all sorts of (ill-informed) people unnecessarily staggering string clamps - especially with floating clamps - in a manner that prevents them from actually achieving full tension on each & every main.

It certainly doesn't help matters that the manufacturers provide very little in the way of proper instruction/technique.

Then again, (as I've stated before) stringing machine companies are in the business of selling machines... not teaching people how to properly string racquets.
Car companies are in the business of selling you a car... not teaching you how to drive properly.

The starting clamp is already holding the 1st main

Correct!

...so you can release that clamp once you have pulled the 3rd right main string and clamp that string, from underneath.

Actually, that (initial) floating clamp can be removed (and relocated) as soon as the 2nd right main string has been tensioned... rather than the 3rd main.

Furthermore, I would advise doing so.

Using a starting pin will eliminate the need for double pulling the first mains.

Double pulling the initial 2 mains is not a problem - provided that the technician does go back to give an individual (full reference tension) pull to the strand which initially had the starting clamp placed on it - which @takayukih does.

FWIW, there are other potential issues (which I won't outline here) with implementing a starting pin.

You can make your own with 15g steel fencing wire or even old string tied with a super dead knot. Alternatively, Klip sells their starter pin, but it's just steel wire with clamp end and rubber tubing. I would buy a cheap friction only flying clamp for a steel pin option, because the steel will eat up the dust grip of the Claws.

A starting pin (homemade or otherwise) is also completely unnecessary for properly achieving full tension on each & every main string.

No need to buy (or make) a starting pin... nor any need to buy yet another floating clamp - for dedicated use with some potentially damaging starting pin.



If one truly knows what they're doing, it's entirely possible to start the mains...

• without staggering either clamp away from the frame
• without getting 3 (or more) mains ahead on a given side (just as @takayukih did)
• without a starting pin
• And even possible without a starting clamp (however, things are much easier/convenient if one does have a starting clamp ).

 

[Sardines]

Double pulling the initial 2 mains is not a problem - provided that the technician does go back to give an individual (full reference tension) pull to the strand which initially had the starting clamp placed on it - which @takayukih does.

The problem with pulling the main twice, is one is essentially "prestretching" the string, which for polys, does stiffen up the doubled pulled string. The Pro Stringer throat pulls are literally pulling the length of 2 mains, due to the butt pull technique. So one is essentially double (*triple on some portions) pulling the top pull mains on the throat mains. I've found I've had to drop tension on those mains to get those mains to play evenly. My personal experience is that it is more relevant with polys. With highly elastic natural gut, it is much less an issue and I just drop 1lbs of tension on the double pulled mains. Now this isn't just a pedantry issue. I blind tested this 3 times and I could pick the double pulled sticks every time. The pocketing feel is just different. Disappointingly, Playsight did not detect any difference in ball performance, so it's more a feel thing.

 

[PBODY99]

10 % off check ex-pand
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[finalfantasy7]

I've been using Pro-Stringer since 2018 and been loving them. I switched to the new 3.0 version from the 2.0 last year and had little issues with it. Here's a video of me using the machine stringing a friend's racket.

I been using thr version 2.0 for 2 yrs now, just wondering whats the difference between the 2.0 and 3.0 - just the machine only, i know about thr new frame