Pro-Stringer Cybex - a modern portable stringing machine

Sardines said:
Anyone with the original manual, the new page to make a Sergetti/Proportional Stringing .ser file is here:

https://pro-stringer.com/cybex-custom-stringing-table/

I've done 2 now and it's a straight forward to input via the web server to generate a file. Alternatively, one can approach Sergetti for the file.

Using the Sergetti files are easy. One just has to upload the file to the Cybex via the Cybex web-server function. Then go to the Sergetti function on the Cybex and it's ready to do the first pull on the first main, LR1. After that, you can pull R1-3, then scroll back to L1 on the Cybex, then pull L1-5, then scroll back to 4 for R4 etc.
For crosses, you can use a starter clap on #1, then scroll to #2 on the Cybex, then pull 2 first, then continue on to 18-20 etc. All in all, it is much easier than punching in the different tensions for each pull. You will still set up extended pull, pre-stretch etc in the main menu first.
Click to expand...
FYI, I finally got Rubin to get the Sergetti discount code: CYBEXSERGETTI-20
This was a big oversight on Pro Stringer's part since it's the ONLY stringer that can preprogram the setting
 
How’s the itf masters circuit? What kind of UTR do you usually see at the different levels of events? I imagine at the 1000 it would be a lot of former high level athletes competing… I’m talking about 40-45+ groups
 
Sardines said:
I personally haven't timed out full setup from in bag to ready to string, but for X6 it would be about 5-6 minutes. The X4-6 mounts does add a few minutes, but once you set it up and mark it down for your sticks, it's quite a bit faster. As mentioned in the PS videos, setting up means making sure grommet holes aren't blocked. If you have multiple different rackets, then the adjustment for each hoop length is longer.
I prefer the original X2 support mount, but it is too tall and not compatible with the Cybex. The Cybex with the current X mount has an extra step the original one doesn't have, the need to adjust the height of the mount for throat pulls only from under the frame. With the old mount, which is what the video of the PSP3 shows, just changing the mount head allows you to switch between over or under the butt pulls. That's 6-8 extra steps raising and lowering the new mount, depending on racquet. It certainly adds a couple of minutes to the stringing time.
As you mentioned the X2 setup has a different head mount, with a screw top lock down, vs just another I or K support and relying on the side mounts for stability. It is about 60g heavier than what ships with the X4/6 mount. I have both mounts, so I travel with that head mount so I have a choice to go to 2 mount on site, as I did for a buddy who needed emergency restring before a match at an ITF 1k event and I didn't have much time to set up.
So basically, as a traveling competitive player, I would recommend getting the X2 head mount with a X4 setup, for when you have more time to set up to string. It gives the best flexibility with the least weight penalty for traveling. That said, it will be more expensive. I was the early adopter of the X mount so I had that lock down design first. My kids love the 6 mount and we have that set up at home. When they travel internationally, especially in Asia, they have to worry about cabin baggage weight. The compromise is the X4. The X6 is an additional 600g for the 2 arms, which I sometimes bring on trips where travel weight isn't a concern.
I wouldn't worry about which is more popular, but concentrate on what you need for yourself. If travel weight is't an issue, the X6 is nice to have. I like having the flexibility of having 2 mount when I need it. Have sales team do the match for you and see if it's worth it for you.
Click to expand...
I have done about 10 racquets on the Cyber now. Questions for you for using the X2 mounts:

Does the main locking silver screw on the head side ever get stuck for you after the string job? Most of the time I was not able to release the frame without assistance of hex key tools. I was under the impression that I should be able to hand tighten and loosen and have toolless mount/dismount process. Not sure if I can tighten it more or less to solve it? Or do you have the same experience?

Do you actually use the Buttcap pull for your day to day stringing with the X2? I'm understanding what you said about the extra step after using it now. Buttcap pull takes quite a while and really slow down the process for me to start the mains. The machine also slips during buttcap pull without being held down or on the mat. The base height adjustment also slip down sometime while being propped up so it's another step to tighten it properly and loosen it after each pull.

I resorted to just pulling at the throat and avoided having to adjust the machine over and over. The workflow is much better that way since I don't have anything obstructing pulling by the side of frame with the X2 anyway. Is there any downsides? Does pulling straight from buttcap actually improves results much vs. pulling at an angle by the throat?
 
I also understand now why you said in another thread that you prefer the 2.0 claws over the 3.0 claws. I mean I didn't really have the choice as the 3.0 came with the machine. But it does take longer having to adjust for 2 and 3 string spacing correctly and the size makes it more cumbersome to start mains as well.

I already have one claws 2.0 I purchased in the past with my drop weight and it is helping so I can leave the other 3.0 always in 3 string spacing. But I would be even more frustrated if I have only the 3.0s and having to adjust both clamps from 2 to 3 strings over the course of the string job and work with the larger size for starting mains/crosses
 
No. It is very important the head mount adjustment screw have as small as gap as possible. If not, the mount connecting screw will warp slightly under the pressure of the racquet warping as you string, which makes it difficult to loosen when you're done. The instructions don't emphasize that enough. It's likely your gap isn't small enough or you aren't following the correct sequence of adjustment nut first, then head mount lock screw, then top of the head mount screw.
thebigz said:
I have done about 10 racquets on the Cyber now. Questions for you for using the X2 mounts:

Does the main locking silver screw on the head side ever get stuck for you after the string job? Most of the time I was not able to release the frame without assistance of hex key tools. I was under the impression that I should be able to hand tighten and loosen and have toolless mount/dismount process. Not sure if I can tighten it more or less to solve it? Or do you have the same experience?
Click to expand...
I only do the cap pulls, because I string both gut and poly in the mains depending on the conditions/court. Gut just isn't as resilient as poly and has snapped on throat pulls for me.
As for the Module X throat pulls, I looked at the physics of a plastic K-bar holding the throat down, I personally just don't trust it will hold when the racquet is being pulled up against it. Not sure what the PS engineers say, but I say no thank you to throat pulls. I'm not sure they are approved X-2 for it. You'll have to ask Pro Stringer.
thebigz said:
Do you actually use the Buttcap pull for your day to day stringing with the X2? I'm understanding what you said about the extra step after using it now. Buttcap pull takes quite a while and really slow down the process for me to start the mains. The machine also slips during buttcap pull without being held down or on the mat. The base height adjustment also slip down sometime while being propped up so it's another step to tighten it properly and loosen it after each pull.

I resorted to just pulling at the throat and avoided having to adjust the machine over and over. The workflow is much better that way since I don't have anything obstructing pulling by the side of frame with the X2 anyway. Is there any downsides? Does pulling straight from buttcap actually improves results much vs. pulling at an angle by the throat?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Sardines said:
No. It is very important the head mount adjustment screw have as small as gap as possible. If not, the mount connecting screw will warp slightly under the pressure of the racquet warping as you string, which makes it difficult to loosen when you're done. The instructions don't emphasize that enough. It's likely your gap isn't small enough or you aren't following the correct sequence of adjustment nut first, then head mount lock screw, then top of the head mount screw.

I only do the cap pulls, because I string both gut and poly in the mains depending on the conditions/court. Gut just isn't as resilient as poly and has snapped on throat pulls for me.
As for the Module X throat pulls, I looked at the physics of a plastic K-bar holding the throat down, I personally just don't trust it will hold when the racquet is being pulled up against it. Not sure what the PS engineers say, but I say no thank you to throat pulls. I'm not sure they are approved X-2 for it. You'll have to ask Pro Stringer.
Click to expand...
I tried again yesterday and even with a mat at the butt cap pull, the machine still slipped off and knocked itself over and loses the tension unless I’m holding it down with one hand, which only leaves me one hand to clamp which isn’t a great experience.


Maybe I’m doing something wrong. Would love to figure out a solution so I can have my hands off the machine which this time I had to adjust clamps
 
It's not really clear, but it seems you were moving the machine while tensioned, and because it's not secured to the unit, nor square against the guide, it spun loose.
First of all, do you see that PS dial at the side of the sensor guide? You can use that to tighten the sensor to the machine so it doesn't spin freely, if you are having difficult with setting up the butt cap on the sensor. I pull out, flip and push in the sensor instead of letting it spin freely for that reason.(Side note for early buyers: your sensor guide may not be a dial but a hex screw). Also, try not to move the machine when it's tensioned against the butt, especially if you don't have the mount height secured. Just clamp the string and then hit release button.
Second, make sure your table mount is secure and not wobbly. Sometimes some movement from leaning against the table etc will cause the table to wobble and throw off the machine during butt pulls, especially again because of the unsecured sensor guide and bad butt cap alignment.
Third, for mount height adjustment, you must make sure the butt is resting on and also against the sensor guide. I find that to be the most secure way to pull from the butt. Too much gap and there is not even contact surface to securely pull tension. This is especially true when I tighten the mount at preset height. I do not use the slide flip on the mount, as shown in the demo video, as butt caps vary in size, and that's more a general guide than an accurate height adjustment. It's basic physics.
Should all this have been explained in the manual and video guides online? Absolutely! But it's not! That is why I share my family's knowledge here, and also give Pro Stringer crap for not doing all this for customers.
thebigz said:
I tried again yesterday and even with a mat at the butt cap pull, the machine still slipped off and knocked itself over and loses the tension unless I’m holding it down with one hand, which only leaves me one hand to clamp which isn’t a great experience.


Maybe I’m doing something wrong. Would love to figure out a solution so I can have my hands off the machine which this time I had to adjust clamps
Click to expand...
 
Sardines said:
It's not really clear, but it seems you were moving the machine while tensioned, and because it's not secured to the unit, nor square against the guide, it spun loose.
First of all, do you see that PS dial at the side of the sensor guide? You can use that to tighten the sensor to the machine so it doesn't spin freely, if you are having difficult with setting up the butt cap on the sensor. I pull out, flip and push in the sensor instead of letting it spin freely for that reason.(Side note for early buyers: your sensor guide may not be a dial but a hex screw). Also, try not to move the machine when it's tensioned against the butt, especially if you don't have the mount height secured. Just clamp the string and then hit release button.
Second, make sure your table mount is secure and not wobbly. Sometimes some movement from leaning against the table etc will cause the table to wobble and throw off the machine during butt pulls, especially again because of the unsecured sensor guide and bad butt cap alignment.
Third, for mount height adjustment, you must make sure the butt is resting on and also against the sensor guide. I find that to be the most secure way to pull from the butt. Too much gap and there is not even contact surface to securely pull tension. This is especially true when I tighten the mount at preset height. I do not use the slide flip on the mount, as shown in the demo video, as butt caps vary in size, and that's more a general guide than an accurate height adjustment. It's basic physics.
Should all this have been explained in the manual and video guides online? Absolutely! But it's not! That is why I share my family's knowledge here, and also give Pro Stringer crap for not doing all this for customers.
Click to expand...
No I did not try to move the machine during tensioning. I tried to hold it down last minute when it was about to spin out already as I was trying to adjust clamps with both hands leading up.

I’ll double check to lock down the sensor guide better next time to see if things changes. I’m not fully understanding the third point you made. Are you saying don’t use the flip up style height adjustment that’s shipped with the newer CybeX X2? I see in the videos posted by PS most of them are using a different height adjustment mechanism on the table mount side.

and same, I wish there’s better video instructions from expert stringers that walks you through the details on the proper technique things to pay attention and might encounter during a string job. I tried searching the internet and many of these small questions are hard to find an answer for in their existing videos
 
thebigz said:
I’ll double check to lock down the sensor guide better next time to see if things changes. I’m not fully understanding the third point you made. Are you saying don’t use the flip up style height adjustment that’s shipped with the newer CybeX X2? I see in the videos posted by PS most of them are using a different height adjustment mechanism on the table mount side.
Click to expand...
The sensor guide lock should fix your spinning racket problem IF the height of the butt cap isn't too high. I'm saying you adjust the height manually to the sensor, ENSURING the butt cap is flush against the bottom and face of the sensor. Then lock that height down. Some brands have butt caps aren't flat but convex, like Nordicdots etc. It's so bad you can't even stand the racquet up on the ground on the butt cap. If I see that, I'd pop it off to string. Your Solinco is flat so it's most likely you not locking the sensor down.
 
thebigz said:
and same, I wish there’s better video instructions from expert stringers that walks you through the details on the proper technique things to pay attention and might encounter during a string job. I tried searching the internet and many of these small questions are hard to find an answer for in their existing videos
Click to expand...
And since I'm in Xmas mood, I'll add one last user deduced tip and later confirmed by the boss. The mount base has various holes to mount. I know the instruction video said right near the middle, but that's because the guy who wrote the script (sorry, Rubin/Bryan!) did not consult the engineer. During the setup phase, you start with the mount base set to high, using the flip setting. then you set the sensor guide to butt pull, and choose the hole which sets the butt cap closest to flush on and against the sensor guide. I should probably put this in my review. My new year resolution is to revamp the review with all these things.
 
Sardines said:
And since I'm in Xmas mood, I'll add one last user deduced tip and later confirmed by the boss. The mount base has various holes to mount. I know the instruction video said right near the middle, but that's because the guy who wrote the script (sorry, Rubin/Bryan!) did not consult the engineer. During the setup phase, you start with the mount base set to high, using the flip setting. then you set the sensor guide to butt pull, and choose the hole which sets the butt cap closest to flush on and against the sensor guide. I should probably put this in my review. My new year resolution is to revamp the review with all these things.
Click to expand...
Interesting, did not know those mounting holes spaces can affect the buttcap pull. Will explore on my next string job
 
thebigz said:
Interesting, did not know those mounting holes spaces can affect the buttcap pull. Will explore on my next string job
Click to expand...
Yes well nor did I until my kids asked me when we first got the X module. But I was pulling over the butt cap anyways so it didn't matter as much. But as a dad with 2 inquisitive kids, I had to figure it out. Only when we got the Cybex did the issue come back, and I'd forgotten about it, but was kindly reminded by my kids. It's only because I know exactly which hole to use for my sticks that it was a non-issue. Which is why I mentioned the standard height that the flip switch on the mount isn't universal, but forgot to add the mount holes have to be used in combination to get the right height for the Cybex.
 
How tight does everyone screw the mounts on the X6 model? Sometimes if loosening the outside mounts first I find the throat and head too tight to undo, but if starting with the main two I have no issues.
 
thebigz said:
Interesting, did not know those mounting holes spaces can affect the buttcap pull. Will explore on my next string job
Click to expand...
Began writing the step by step on using the X mount with P3 and Cybex. Realized without visual aids, it becomes a bit difficult to show new users what is needed. I'll be contacting PS regarding this and work with Rubin on making sure a step by step guide is included in the manual.
Since I'm asking users, what would be more penetrative? A separate thread on the X mount set up or included in here and linked to the various threads?
 
Sardines said:
Began writing the step by step on using the X mount with P3 and Cybex. Realized without visual aids, it becomes a bit difficult to show new users what is needed. I'll be contacting PS regarding this and work with Rubin on making sure a step by step guide is included in the manual.
Since I'm asking users, what would be more penetrative? A separate thread on the X mount set up or included in here and linked to the various threads?
Click to expand...
I’d say both. Here is helpful for indexing but new folks will have to read through tons of discussions on other topic to get to this.

Ultimately they need to put it as a step by step video on their YouTube with human voiceover explaining that’s not a 3D rendering.

Once I’m better educated on this I can help with creating some CybeX stringing videos too. I still feel like I have a lot to learn
 
Oh for sure PS should be the one doing this and not users, at least ones who aren't influencers looking for subscribers. I'm not going to go on YT to do this, nor sign up for imgur to host pics. But I do want to share what I've learnt, because I've learnt some stuff from this forum too. Paying it forward as it were.
 
Sardines said:
Oh for sure PS should be the one doing this and not users, at least ones who aren't influencers looking for subscribers. I'm not going to go on YT to do this, nor sign up for imgur to host pics. But I do want to share what I've learnt, because I've learnt some stuff from this forum too. Paying it forward as it were.
Click to expand...

Totally. It's a great product and the people behind it seem very nice/helpful, but they rely an awful lot on their users "figuring" things out. And that works perhaps in a small, super-focused/dedicated market. But they are really going to have to up their usage/directions game if they want to expand that. Relying on social influencers is not a good strategy, imo.
 
thebigz said:
I’d say both. Here is helpful for indexing but new folks will have to read through tons of discussions on other topic to get to this.

Ultimately they need to put it as a step by step video on their YouTube with human voiceover explaining that’s not a 3D rendering.

Once I’m better educated on this I can help with creating some CybeX stringing videos too. I still feel like I have a lot to learn
Click to expand...
I've given up writing it up. Without visual aids, it's confusing and just too long. With regards to your issue, did it fix your problems?
 
Has anyone else had issues with the tension head occasionally slipping underneath handle on buttcap pulls if not at the exact right height? Even with the sticky mat underneath the tension head
 
t3nn1st1m3 said:
Has anyone else had issues with the tension head occasionally slipping underneath handle on buttcap pulls if not at the exact right height? Even with the sticky mat underneath the tension head
Click to expand...
It's basic physics, setting the height correctly is the 2nd step to do. Use the holes under the mount, higher is closer to throat, lower is towards the head. It's a pity PS didn't do a precise step by step.
 
Last edited:
Sardines said:
I've given up writing it up. Without visual aids, it's confusing and just too long. With regards to your issue, did it fix your problems?
Click to expand...
I have been traveling for holidays and haven’t been able to play or string a racquet yet! Will follow up when I get to try again
 
thebigz said:
I’d say both. Here is helpful for indexing but new folks will have to read through tons of discussions on other topic to get to this.

Ultimately they need to put it as a step by step video on their YouTube with human voiceover explaining that’s not a 3D rendering.

Once I’m better educated on this I can help with creating some CybeX stringing videos too. I still feel like I have a lot to learn
Click to expand...
Please try and get them to make a printable PDF guide with photos - searching through a video for specific topics is not the most pleasant experience!
 
Regarding the X2 mount holes, what is the “flip switch”? I too have difficulty with the correct height when using the buttcap pull, and currently just adjust for throat pulls until all 6 holes at throat are finished.
 
Have you watched the X2 Cybex video on the PS site? That's should be a good starter. Personally I would never do a throat pull with the X2, but that's just me.
JackieTreeh0rn said:
Regarding the X2 mount holes, what is the “flip switch”? I too have difficulty with the correct height when using the buttcap pull, and currently just adjust for throat pulls until all 6 holes at throat are finished.
Click to expand...
I'll send my feedback to the PS.
Katzenjammer said:
Totally. It's a great product and the people behind it seem very nice/helpful, but they rely an awful lot on their users "figuring" things out. And that works perhaps in a small, super-focused/dedicated market. But they are really going to have to up their usage/directions game if they want to expand that. Relying on social influencers is not a good strategy, imo.
Click to expand...
JackieTreeh0rn said:
Please try and get them to make a printable PDF guide with photos - searching through a video for specific topics is not the most pleasant experience!
Click to expand...
 
Sardines said:
It's basic physics, setting the height correctly is the 2nd step to do. Use the holes under the mount, higher is closer to throat, lower is towards the head. It's a pity PS didn't do a precise step by step.
Click to expand...
I strung last night and was trying to pay attention to the height. Can you show a picture of which holes you are talking about that adjust height? I thought I knew what you are talking about but mine seemed all the same height to me. Not sure what I’m missing.

I just had to use the riser part without the flip up guide to get a more precise height. But it’s kinda annoying and time consuming to double check for every throat pull.

Locking down the tension guide fully did solved the machine slipping for me(with mat) Didn’t pay enough attention to that since it didn’t seemed needed to be full locked on a regular pull against the frame.
 
Another Q:

Is there an appropriate way to start the mains without the starting clamp? I’m considering stringing gut and ideally don’t want to deform the string part that’s about to go through the grommet.

I used a different starting method back when I used dropweights but never seen anyone demonstrate with a pro stringer.

Have anyone strung Gut with the CybeX? Is the rotational grippers gentle enough on the string?
 
I string gut mains with the starting clamp with no issues. Pacific, VS, Luxilon and Klip/Volkl, all deform a little but no deleterious effect. However I definitely would NOT do throat pulls with gut at all! And make sure you use the gut setting to slow the pull speed.
thebigz said:
Another Q:

Is there an appropriate way to start the mains without the starting clamp? I’m considering stringing gut and ideally don’t want to deform the string part that’s about to go through the grommet.

I used a different starting method back when I used dropweights but never seen anyone demonstrate with a pro stringer.

Have anyone strung Gut with the CybeX? Is the rotational grippers gentle enough on the string?
Click to expand...
I don't have a image hosting service. There are multiple mount holes. If you set up the X module correctly, each hole will correspond to a change of a few mm in height at the buttcap. Don't eyeball it. Measure it. Since you have a X2, make sure you are using the K adapter for the throat mount.
thebigz said:
I strung last night and was trying to pay attention to the height. Can you show a picture of which holes you are talking about that adjust height? I thought I knew what you are talking about but mine seemed all the same height to me. Not sure what I’m missing.

I just had to use the riser part without the flip up guide to get a more precise height. But it’s kinda annoying and time consuming to double check for every throat pull.

Locking down the tension guide fully did solved the machine slipping for me(with mat) Didn’t pay enough attention to that since it didn’t seemed needed to be full locked on a regular pull against the frame.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Ok I think I'll try to do the set up for the X module with Cybex here, since I've received 3 DMs regarding this.

1. Lock the tension sensor so it can't spin on the knob. There is a dial (or for older machines, a hex screw) so it's a simple dial/screw in until the sensor is unable to spin but there is a couple of mm of play so it's simple easy to pull off the rod and flip 180° for butt pulls. This will solve the butt as the cybex pulls.
2. X2-6 setup: Mount with the table mount with the lifting mechanism set in "high". Choose the hole that above the "R" in the Prostringer brand on the top side of the racquet mount. Mount racquet as per Pro Stringer instructions, and set the Cybex/P3 with the butt cap pull side and check the height. The butt should be resting on the sensor, flat against the guide. Make sure there is no gap. If it can't rest because it's too low... move along the mount holes toward the throat, until you find the optimal height for your buttcap size.
With X4-6, mount around the S/T hole. Good luck!
#pro-stringer #X-module #Cybex #Pro-stringerCybex
 
Last edited:
Do
Sardines said:
Ok I think I'll try to do the set up for the X module with Cybex here, since I've received 3 DMs regarding this.

1. Lock the tension sensor so it can't spin on the knob. There is a dial (or for older machines, a hex screw) so it's a simple dial/screw in until the sensor is unable to spin but there is a couple of mm of play so it's simple easy to pull off the rod and flip 180° for butt pulls. This will solve the butt as the cybex pulls.
2. X2-6 setup: Mount with the table mount with the lifting mechanism set in "high". Choose the hole that above the "R" in the Prostringer brand on the top side of the racquet mount. Mount racquet as per Pro Stringer instructions, and set the Cybex/P3 with the butt cap pull side and check the height. The butt should be resting on the sensor, flat against the guide. Make sure there is no gap. If it can't rest because it's too low... move along the mount holes toward the throat, until you find the optimal height for your buttcap size.
With X4-6, mount around the S/T hole. Good luck!
Click to expand...
When you say a bit of play on the tension sensor, mine can always rotate like 10 degrees, is that normal? Mine never seems truly locked down.
 
Sardines said:
Your problem was the mount height? Follow step 2?
Click to expand...
Yes think I have fixed it. How much of an issue is it on an X6 if I don’t remember to screw in the end cap on the mount? I do the center, and outside ones but occasionally forget the end screw on the outside of the mount. No issues yet…
 
I've been contact with PS and have good news and not so good news updates. The X module with Cybex manual will be coming out soon. I'm supposed to get a draft at some point. They are also going to revamp the instructional videos to properly reflect on their products. The bad news is it only is in the works but won't be so soon. But I think most of the basic user issues have been explained in this thread.
 
I've updated the review to mention some of the issues raised by new users. Unfortunately, the reality is there are a bunch of TicTok/YT/IG users who have put videos out there on how to use the Cybex, and most make mistakes against Pro Stringer advice. My kids bothered to do the research, wanting to compare our methodology learnt from PS itself and our own deductive solutions, to what is out there. My kids have brought 3 videos to my attention, and we saw mistakes from setting the X-module, to stringing crosses the much longer way, instead of the faster ways.
Something as simple as the head mount distance, which is mentioned as 3mm gap in the X mount video, as max space between the bolt and the adjusting nut, is omitted in most of the setup videos. Only one video mentions locking the tension head, but then proceeds to do butt pulls without doing it. Even the official Pro Stringer videos don't mention it, nor do they mention what that silicone sheet is for. So for those looking for solutions to your issues, caveat emptor!
 
Anyone find the .ser filenames from Sergetti to be ridiculously long? I have to rename them so that it fits into the screen of the Cybex in 1 line vs 7 lines.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
Some different voice for Pro Stringer CybeX
Replies
8
Views
583
Sardines
Sardines
A
Pro stringer platinum with constant pull
Replies
13
Views
4K
onehandbh
onehandbh
D
Pro Stringer Platinum 2.0 - any reason not to get??
Replies
35
Views
6K
Deleted member 780178
D
S
Pro Stringer 3.0 w/ Module X 6 Point Mount
Replies
23
Views
4K
finalfantasy7
finalfantasy7
J
Price Check - Used Pro Stringer Machine
Replies
5
Views
599
Sardines
Sardines
Back
Top