Pro Stringer Platinum 2.0 review

struggle

Legend
Check post 14 in this thread by Sardines ;)

No, i was talking about SEEING accuracy.

I still won't be buying one of these, but it was cool to see one used that showed such.

These machines are too cumbersome for my needs, in the sense of usefulness.

If i wanted a portable machine, it wouldn't need to be this "portable".

I think for ITF players and such, that can't afford to even go out for a meal, it makes sense to
sit at the hostel and string racquets while eating beanie weenies. Makes no sense for a home stringer (to me).

Cool trinket!! They will only get better. I'm still sold on the portable Brazilian Lockout machines. If they could
make the platform abit more robust, i could see where this tension head could have it's place. Heck, when I
travel to tournaments, i stay in hotels and could easily tote my upright in the back of some teammates Escalade.
 

struggle

Legend
I have one of these Brazilian TMS machines. It's very useful, but I think it is too hard to release the tensioner after tensioning. I had to adapt some kind of lever to make it easier.

That's odd. The videos I have seen make it look similar to any other lockout, but on a pivot versus a rail.
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
I have one of these Brazilian TMS machines. It's very useful, but I think it is too hard to release the tensioner after tensioning. I had to adapt some kind of lever to make it easier.
Sounds like your clamps are slipping or drawing back too far. As you release tension the string between the clamp and the tensioner should have no tension. And if there is no tension you should easily be able to release the tensioner.

EDIT: You could try putting a little hand tension on the string before applying tension. Maybe there is too much slack before applying tension. Also make sure you clamp is as near the frame as you can get them. This less string between the clamp and the tensioner the better.
 
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gucanella

New User
See what you mean, @Irvin.

Detailing a little bit more. Everytime after tensioning a string, the "first pressed" on the release pivot is the difficult one, it takes a lot of strength. After that it becomes easy to bring it back to the initial position, beacuse there is no more tension, as you said.

P.s: I'm a beginner stringer and do only my own racquets, so there is a good chance I'm doing something wrong. Next time I'll try to make a video to show you.
 

Sardines

Hall of Fame
That is such a cute little system! My kids would love it for the cute factor and hate me for buying one for them to use! haha. Seriously though, that's a nice system for a home printed design.

I have to say this thread has taken a very different turn from my original intent of informing people about my experiences with the Pro Stringer. From wrong thread posts to nail clipper jokes to home made machines and even Cyrillic posts, I just don't see this sort of behavior with most other threads.
 

TejP

New User
Hey @Sardines, I have a question about my Pro Stringer. The tension sensor is a tiny bit loose and I can slightly wiggle it side to side. Is this bad?
 
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Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
See what you mean, @Irvin.

Detailing a little bit more. Everytime after tensioning a string, the "first pressed" on the release pivot is the difficult one, it takes a lot of strength. After that it becomes easy to bring it back to the initial position, beacuse there is no more tension, as you said.

P.s: I'm a beginner stringer and do only my own racquets, so there is a good chance I'm doing something wrong. Next time I'll try to make a video to show you.
We all had to learn at one time. Also before you press the release lever put some pressure on the handle to take tension off the release lever. Then press your release lever and allow handle to rise.
 
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Sardines

Hall of Fame
I'm sorry. I'm just a user. Any servicing questions should be directed to Pro Stringer. I really do suggest you contact PS directly.
Hey @Sardines, I have a question about my Pro Stringer. The tension sensor is a tiny bit loose and I can slightly wiggle it side to side. Is this bad?
 

Tennis_dude101

Professional
Hey @Sardines, I have a question about my Pro Stringer. The tension sensor is a tiny bit loose and I can slightly wiggle it side to side. Is this bad?
Mine is the same, it is just the way the tension sensor is mounted to the case. I don't think it matters. By all means contact PS if it is worrying you.

TD
 
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struggle

Legend
Updated with the cross stringing issues.

I wonder if the Kmate awl, with removable tip could somehow pass for carry on? Just a thought. It may not matter
if bags are being checked.

FWIW, I've had one for 35 years or so and it's still my favorite awl (requires a wrench to secure the tip, which is replaceable).
 

Sardines

Hall of Fame
I want to go through TSA as fast as possible. I don't want to be stopped for something silly as an awl, or cutter etc etc. The multitool has a blade, so it goes in the checked luggage. The PS2 is delightful to travel with. The D1 guys I play with also used these units when traveling. No need to find someone whose machine can replicate what you like etc. An hour of your life for 2 racquets is about the same as going to the stringer. The nice thing about our racquets is there is no need for awls at all. The only racquet that is problematic is the need for blunt needles to hold the blocked cross holes at the end.
 

struggle

Legend
I want to go through TSA as fast as possible. I don't want to be stopped for something silly as an awl, or cutter etc etc. The multitool has a blade, so it goes in the checked luggage. The PS2 is delightful to travel with. The D1 guys I play with also used these units when traveling. No need to find someone whose machine can replicate what you like etc. An hour of your life for 2 racquets is about the same as going to the stringer. The nice thing about our racquets is there is no need for awls at all. The only racquet that is problematic is the need for blunt needles to hold the blocked cross holes at the end.

Gotch, the D1 guys I know care less about their string jobs than the 3.5 guys I know.

No blunt needles needed for either, it seems. Good stuff.
 
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Sardines

Hall of Fame
Someone PMed me regarding calibration of tension. AFAIK, it can't be adjusted. When I asked Jean about this in the beginning, he sent me a file to print out the scale that can replace the scale that's on the unit. The accuracy, as fair as I have determined as accurately as I could, is about +/- 1-1.2lbs variation with that tiny tension indicator. The machine has been working at least 1-2 racquets a week since we bought it, and sometimes 3-4 if I want mine done. So it's not doing pro shop numbers. So far, the machine has been accurate still, but I'm pretty sure it will need some sort of tune up at some point. We'll see. I haven't stripped the unit, but since the warranty is about to expire, I may just do a strip down when I have a few hours to blow.
 

Tennis_dude101

Professional
Someone PMed me regarding calibration of tension. AFAIK, it can't be adjusted. When I asked Jean about this in the beginning, he sent me a file to print out the scale that can replace the scale that's on the unit. The accuracy, as fair as I have determined as accurately as I could, is about +/- 1-1.2lbs variation with that tiny tension indicator. The machine has been working at least 1-2 racquets a week since we bought it, and sometimes 3-4 if I want mine done. So it's not doing pro shop numbers. So far, the machine has been accurate still, but I'm pretty sure it will need some sort of tune up at some point. We'll see. I haven't stripped the unit, but since the warranty is about to expire, I may just do a strip down when I have a few hours to blow.
If you can remove the tension adjustment knob (mine is held on by a grub screw) you should find a screw with the shaft running through it. This can be turned to adjust the tension calibration.

TD
 

Sardines

Hall of Fame
Sorry I just went through my DMs. The adjustment for the claws are "winged" in my household, but Pro Stringer have a more precise methodology on YT. We use 16L to 19g, so we can constantly changing the gaps.


Re: the pulling of the throat mains under the frame at the handle:
As mentioned before I personally had issues with natural gut breakage from the V throat. Never tried pulling it back under the handle since we were given the schematics of the adapter which extends the string guide by 1" higher which allows the string to not have stress of a pinch point from being under the handle and also the string guide. I think this is the best method for fragile natural gut. I'm guessing that copolys and multis I don't think will have an issue with that method.
 
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liftordie

Hall of Fame
What’s the difference between the large pro stringer flying clamp and the medium? For what frame specifications do I need one size or other?
Thanks
 

Jerry Seinfeld

Professional
In most instances the medium can be made to work for the full stringbed, but the outer crosses and mains sometimes need to be scrunched together. In cases such Wilson Spin Effect patterns, the gap between crosses can get to the point where the large is helpful.
 

cwfl

New User
Considering this because space is of concern and therefore preferring not to buy a full-sized one. If any owner can please confirm it would be great -- I have read from their tech spec that the tension range is 45-65lbs, but the picture of the tension scale on the website seems to show a larger range than this? Mainly thinking about the 40-45lb range which would be very useful.

Thanks!
 

cwfl

New User
34-70 lbs
Thanks and Interesting. Asked customer service and they refer again to the 45-65 range (and that "the range is more accurate than the tension sticker" and that they are being "more conservative with the range"). Presumably they mean for this as the "best accuracy" range

Though I'm rather unsure about the interesting suggestion of "the good news is that it is much easier to string lower tension than higher tension. For example, you can tension every other string in order to slightly drop tension"...
 

Tennis_dude101

Professional
I've got one of the original Pro Stringer Platinums, pretty sure the tension range is 35-70lbs, I'll check it again when I'm at home.
TD
 

Sardines

Hall of Fame
As stated in my previous post in the same thread, the sticker says 35-70, but my V.2 Platinum unhooks at 38ish lbs. So what the sticker says and what it can actually do are 2 separate things. I would also be interested to know who you got that suggestion from?
Thanks and Interesting. Asked customer service and they refer again to the 45-65 range (and that "the range is more accurate than the tension sticker" and that they are being "more conservative with the range"). Presumably they mean for this as the "best accuracy" range

Though I'm rather unsure about the interesting suggestion of "the good news is that it is much easier to string lower tension than higher tension. For example, you can tension every other string in order to slightly drop tension"...
 

cwfl

New User
So the 45-65lb range is from the website itself under tech. spec. (https://pro-stringer.com/product/portable-stringing-machine-tennis/)

Direct quote from CS via whatsapp (full message):
"The range is more accurate than the tension sticker. Some machines may go slightly lower than 45lb but since we can't guarantee it for all we are more conservative with the range. The good news is that it is much easier to string lower tension than higher tension. For example, you can tension every other string in order to slightly drop tension"

Definitely interesting...
 

Sardines

Hall of Fame
Ah ok. I hadn't paid attention to the website. I know the range has been shrinking because of the design. Originally, when I bought it, it was advertised as 35-70, then my tests showed it can't get to 38 even, but it had changed to 40, so the (Korean?) manufacturer has the spring tensioner tolerance is probably a little looser than the design spec.
It's an imperfect system for sure. Still, we just travelled with it on an international ITF tour for my kids. 9lbs, stuffed in a tennis bag, with racquets, in 3 countries and 8 flights. We even restrung during a match and made it for the 2nd set for a 3rd set win. Can't beat it for convenience of size and weight, IF the range parameter isn't an issue. Even at local tournies, my kid has restrung on a portable table, with a power inverter using the car battery, in the car park.
My kids play in the high 40s and low 50s. I occasionally go up to 62lbs with gut and drop to 42lbs on my polys, but my range are usually 44-59 lb. Haven't had an issue yet. If you want one to string around 39lbs up, I'll trade you my old one for your new one! hahaha
Also they have a 30 day MBG, buy one, test it and see if it works for you? If it doesn't, send it back and lose on shipping. That's gotta be worth it, if you restring a lot.
My kids bought this 2 years ago. It's paid for itself after 4 months in restringing costs at tourneys, and now is just another piece of equipment we bring along.
Now as I said in my review, it could definitely be better. A digital readout (although I can imagine the calibration will be hell due to the design) would be awesome, and a higher mounting system so threading crosses is much easier.

So the 45-65lb range is from the website itself under tech. spec. (https://pro-stringer.com/product/portable-stringing-machine-tennis/)

Direct quote from CS via whatsapp (full message):
"The range is more accurate than the tension sticker. Some machines may go slightly lower than 45lb but since we can't guarantee it for all we are more conservative with the range. The good news is that it is much easier to string lower tension than higher tension. For example, you can tension every other string in order to slightly drop tension"

Definitely interesting...
 
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cwfl

New User
Yea I am still debating with myself whether I want to shell out a few hundreds more for the (potential) added convenience and ultimately an electronic machine (as imperfect as it may be, as well as flying clamp vs. fixed clamp system)

Admittedly I am not the intended touring ITF demographic (I'm just some intermediate leveel scrub) but I do live in a small London apartment and am slightly hesitant whether I want to buy a full-sized machine occupying even more space permanently. I've had enough covid-era impulse buys taking up spaces that i'm struggling to get rid of!

(BTW - their money back guarantee actually takes a sizeable chunk (c.$100 or so I think) out of the refund for delivery costs and whatever else!)
 

Sardines

Hall of Fame
Yea I am still debating with myself whether I want to shell out a few hundreds more for the (potential) added convenience and ultimately an electronic machine (as imperfect as it may be, as well as flying clamp vs. fixed clamp system)

Admittedly I am not the intended touring ITF demographic (I'm just some intermediate leveel scrub) but I do live in a small London apartment and am slightly hesitant whether I want to buy a full-sized machine occupying even more space permanently. I've had enough covid-era impulse buys taking up spaces that i'm struggling to get rid of!

(BTW - their money back guarantee actually takes a sizeable chunk (c.$100 or so I think) out of the refund for delivery costs and whatever else!)
Well it's 30 days so you'd get at least 5 restrings in. That's labor alone worth it. I remember paying £15-£25 labor alone in London, so after 5 restrings, you'll be able to narrow down if the tension range works for you. Took that many restrings to tune tensions for me to like the Pro Stringer. Flying clamps are as good as fixed, if tuned correctly. The setup just requires more "faffing" around (tuning the tightness, initial starting pull and of course the 3 throat pulls to the rear of the butt).
My kids are so good with it that now I can hardly tell the difference between poly hybrids in blind tests vs my professional stringer jobs. There is a bit more difference for gut/poly, but that's more in the main 4 strings, which is sort of double pulled a bit with the starting clamp and flying clamps. Gut just shows the difference more. So I can get my racquet strung rapidly if I am away from my professional stringer.
 

cwfl

New User
So... I ended up pulling the trigger on the Pro Stringer 2.0!

Waited for the Premium Stringer 3600 (6p mount; DW) to come back in stock only to see that it's gone up in price by £100+ (to £500 -- before a £60 upgrade for diamond dusted clamps that I always intended to add, so would be £560 in total) whereas the Pro Stringer 2.0 @ current exchange rate is "only" around £800 (I have added an extra large sized flying clamp though on top of this though)... plus the electronic vs. DW convenience factor pretty much sealed the deal for me

Hoping I can get up to speed (in quality, as well as literally) relatively quickly!
 

Sardines

Hall of Fame
Enjoy and do let us know how you get along. Do make sure you get the Large Claw if you have a wide gap open pattern racquet. And also make sure they at least send you a 3D file of the guide extender, so you can print it out yourself. It's a much easier way to string than under the throat method in the original design.
 

cwfl

New User
Enjoy and do let us know how you get along. Do make sure you get the Large Claw if you have a wide gap open pattern racquet. And also make sure they at least send you a 3D file of the guide extender, so you can print it out yourself. It's a much easier way to string than under the throat method in the original design.
Interesting. How does the guide extender look and what does it do in practice?
 

cwfl

New User
So, Pro Stringer came in the post finally and I made a late-night first attempt --- with an old racket (Dunlop Biomimetic F3.0 Tour 18x20) using a pack of very old babolat hybrid-sold-as-a-set (Pro hurricane + some syngut I think) that someone threw into the bag when I bought another used racket. "Not very successful" and "slow" are probably an understatement but it was probably 80% user/newbie error + 20% product matter

0. I directly went for starting clamp method, instead of flying-clamping in the middle like most of the Pro Stringer tutorial videos.

1. (newbie stringer problem) 18x20 string pattern (starting clamp required at throat instead of at head) probably was not the most newbie-friendly setup as most tutorials seem to showcase 16x19 with the centre mains grommet loop being at throat; also extra strings to be strung!

2. (product/racket design?) PROBLEM/CONFUSION WITH THROAT TENSIONING Not sure whether it was because of the tapered beam of this Dunlop racket in particular, but the Pro Stringer sensor hole ended up sitting HIGHER THAN the whole throat beam and I was quite confused how to proceed with the centre mains tensioning
2.1 Question: Has anyone ever run into this problem of sensor hole being too high, as in totally above the throat beam (or is this a problem at all)?
2.2 Question: how then is the throat tensioning supposed to work? Now that I try to put it into practice, is the string supposed to go around the bottom/side of the beam, kink/get squashed by the throat & the sensor, before going through the tensioning unit??
2.3 Question: is it just my racket (in fact not just one, quite a few of my rackets), or is it actually not quite easy to get the Pro Stringer unit to rest flush against the curved throat and apply tension?
2.4 Question: I can't seem to find this anymore but I think I read it somewhere, that it is actually recommended to use the OPPOSITE throat instead of same-side throat as anchor when doing the throat tensioning?


3. (product design) The low height of the bracket did present problem when cross-weaving

4. (newbie stringer problem) I just COULD NOT get the poly to not tangle up throughout the whole main stringing process... the tangling/coil memory made it extremely awkward for me to string even the mains which is supposed to be the easier part

5. (newbie stringer problem) tying knot is harder than it looks in videos! When i was doing the poly (pro hurricane), I had massive issue cinching knots tight as obviously the string doesn't like to be bent (and I noticed afterwards there was slack outside the grommet to begin with). The rubbish-looking knot didn't look like it will unravel by itself though

6. (newbie stringer/racket specific problem) Did not know that some cross grommets can have specific orientation (this racket requires crossing along one specific orientation in order for the cross string loops to sit in the channels cut out on the grommet rather than "sticking out" (I later realised an "S" side/"L" side designation at the bottom of the grommet -- just out of interest, does anyone know what these stand for?

Big problems so far (but most resolvable with practice and experience clearly) but I can see myself being a lot more proficient with practice...

PS: Added a large-sized claw clamp to my purchase (default ones are 2x medium ones) and that is definitely helpful for clamping wider-apart strings
 
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esgee48

G.O.A.T.
S may mean Short side for one piece stringing. If it does, there should be a single marked spot for tying the top cross.
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
Question: Has anyone ever run into this problem of sensor hole being too high, as in totally above the throat beam (or is this a problem at all)?
On my 6004 I had a Wise with the Gamma adapter which raised to pull level with the stringbed.
Question: how then is the throat tensioning supposed to work? Now that I try to put it into practice, is the string supposed to go around the bottom/side of the beam, kink/get squashed by the throat & the sensor, before going through the tensioning unit??
When stringing the mains in the throat you must go over or under the frame on the side to tension mains on the throat. I always went over but going under provides exactly the same angle.
 

Sardines

Hall of Fame
Wow ok I'll try to answer some of your questions, even though I don't quite understand what you're asking:

2.1 Question: Has anyone ever run into this problem of sensor hole being too high, as in totally above the throat beam (or is this a problem at all)?

I assume the "sensor hole" you are referring to the string guide into the tensioner? If so, it will not ever match the height of the grommet holes.
2.2 Question: how then is the throat tensioning supposed to work? Now that I try to put it into practice, is the string supposed to go around the bottom/side of the beam, kink/get squashed by the throat & the sensor, before going through the tensioning unit??
If you watch the stringing videos on the Youtube channel by Pro Stringer, the string pull is under the shafts. There is built it adjustability in the mount to lift enough for the string to be pulled. If you want to avoid this method, then you will need the Butt Cap Pull Adaptor, which I am not sure is being offered to everyone but I got one 3D printed myself. I do know other forum members approached Pro Stringer and got the .stl file from them.

2.3 Question: is it just my racket (in fact not just one, quite a few of my rackets), or is it actually not quite easy to get the Pro Stringer unit to rest flush against the curved throat and apply tension?
If you use a smooth table, it will tension and pull flush against the frame by tension, by sliding into position on its own. Just align the guide to the grommet hole.

2.4 Question: I can't seem to find this anymore but I think I read it somewhere, that it is actually recommended to use the OPPOSITE throat instead of same-side throat as anchor when doing the throat tensioning?
I suggest you follow the product video.

3. (product design) The low height of the bracket did present problem when cross-weaving
Yes. I've emphasized that design limitation in my review. It is possible to put spacers in to lift it another 1cm and still have space to lock a 24mm racquet down. I had hoped my review would help those looking into the the PS would understand this limitation, but I guess it's easier to see and feel it more than reading about it.

PS: Added a large-sized claw clamp to my purchase (default ones are 2x medium ones) and that is definitely helpful for clamping wider-apart strings
Yes. I do highly recommend anyone using flying clamps to get one, as per my review.
 

cwfl

New User
Thank you @Sardines

On 2.2 - I think I understand what you mean now. If I am seeing correctly from this
, the string guide appears to be quite level with top of beam before pulling, and after pressing the button the whole frame gets lifted a bit by the straightening string?

Although --- comparing the level of the string guide hole to my main racket's beam (speed pro 2022; i haven't tried restringing this as I am still practising) i am still a bit curious/sceptical/worried as to how the stringer may/may not be able to lift the frame by 3/4 of the beam width during the tensioning. Picture (https://www.dropbox.com/s/40fl8mutxewtwhp/IMG_1315.jpg): i've marked the rough corresponding level of the string guide on the frame when rested

I have also reached out to CS for the buttcap adaptor --- in order to give myself another option
 

cwfl

New User
@Sardines

These are the buttcap pull adaptor (2 of them) that I received from Pro Stringer CS. Never did 3D printing before --- is the sizing of the object fixed in the .stl file? Also wondering what material you chose to print these off?
Do I need both adaptors (or which one seems to be the better one)?

.stl files for those who are interested
[Edit: removed link - please contact PS support to obtain files should you want them]
 
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Jerry Seinfeld

Professional
@Sardines

These are the buttcap pull adaptor (2 of them) that I received from Pro Stringer CS. Never did 3D printing before --- is the sizing of the object fixed in the .stl file? Also wondering what material you chose to print these off?
Do I need both adaptors (or which one seems to be the better one)?

.stl files for those who are interested

I think you may be best served by asking your Pro Stringer questions directly to Pro Stringer customer service. Just a thought.
 

Sardines

Hall of Fame
Well, I would first clear with PS if they actually want the world to have these files? I suggest you go to the local library and have them print it out for you if you have no experience. Buying a printer just for this is over doing it. I was only ever given one design, and I understand the 2nd design came about later. I am not in the habit of opening up files from the internet, so I won't be checking which one is the one I have. Sorry.
As for materials, I used PLA on my printer, because it's the most biodegradable of 3D printing materials, and also stronger and stiffer than ABS, which is petrochemical based.

These are the buttcap pull adaptor (2 of them) that I received from Pro Stringer CS. Never did 3D printing before --- is the sizing of the object fixed in the .stl file? Also wondering what material you chose to print these off?
Do I need both adaptors (or which one seems to be the better one)?
 

cwfl

New User
Thanks @Sardines
Yea definitely not buying a 3d printer just for a one-off order - using an online service that is definitely not cheap but affordable for me. I am just hoping PA12 Nylon (one of the (very) few material options at the outlet) would provide the strength required

As for what they are, I figured that one adaptor is for the butt cap whilst the other one does look a bit like the Kimony starting block with a V-shape profile on the side — so that could be for normal round-the-frame tensioning

Good point on whether PS would want these files to be distributed on the Internet — I’ll remove the file link to avoid any issues
 

cwfl

New User
Completed my first stringjob last night (in my previous/first trial run, I cut the strings off before fully completing as the old racket's grommet design was a total pain -- totally struggled to poke the syn gut cross through a blocked hole by the poly main) and have got to say i'm a lot more confident I can get a lot faster with more practices. I ran dangerously close to not having enough mains ends to tension the final hole though, lol...

Tried the "weave as many crosses as possible before tensioning" method that some Pro Stringer example stringing videos employed --- guess i'm not going that route in the future. Way too messy after you "de-slack" each such loop (that you have to leave for running through the tension head) as more and more slacks accumulate as you tension. One cross ahead seems the tidiest way

One observation --- I suppose this is the inherent issue with all tensioning units that require looping the the string through a dial-type unit for tensioning. I noticed (rather, it was hard not to notice) that going through the tensioning unit would cause a minor kink in the poly string. Guess that's no preventing this?
 
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