finalfantasy7
Semi-Pro
so im assuming you have to buy the travel bag seperately ?
Pro Stringer Platinum 2.0 review
- Thread starter Sardines
- Start date
That would be absurd, but perhaps.
Jerry Seinfeld
Professional
The Pro Stringer system comes packaged in a black travel bag.
finalfantasy7
Semi-Pro
Just bought the Pro stringer titanium 2.0, initially struggled with it could get the string to tension, as it was going round it circles and the box was tipping over unless i held it. Contacted the owner on whatsapp - got a instant reply - i needed to hold the box closer to the racket and hold the string firmer through the metal string holder to the circle tensioner.
Absolutely brilliant this is, so glad didnt buy a dropweight, dont have the space and this is more accurate.
Just for anyone who wants to buy it, doesnt come with a starting clamp - have to buy it seperately - however i didnt need it - and ive just strung my first ever racket.
Absolutely brilliant this is, so glad didnt buy a dropweight, dont have the space and this is more accurate.
Just for anyone who wants to buy it, doesnt come with a starting clamp - have to buy it seperately - however i didnt need it - and ive just strung my first ever racket.
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Sardines
Hall of Fame
Just curious, did you run any comparison test to actually say it is more accurate?
More accurate than gravity!!
finalfantasy7
Semi-Pro
i didnt, but read it on here few yrs ago, and seen few videos oon youtube stating it, my friend has a dropweight - klippermate around 7yrs old - he's used my pro stringer and it does string overall tighter and seems more acurrate - but cant say for certain, dont have adevice which can read the tension like ERT300 Tennis String Tester
If you want more accuracy, fixed clamps are the way to go. Floating clamps do move and twist, and that you can figure into your accuracy. If you took a drop weight with fixed clamps, you would get a more accurate job than yours with floating clamps. That is why I asked you about your methods of how you said more accurate than a dw machine.
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
I'm sure it's all there somewhere in at least ONE of your posts.
Jerry Seinfeld
Professional
Myth!
It’s a very sound, logical thinking that says gravity is more accurate than the little electric box and fixed clamps provide a more stable, consistent clamping platform.
I’m not sure why anyone would question such.
But you did, so please explain.
TIA
esgee48
G.O.A.T.
Pro Stringer Claws or Stringway Flying clamps are as good as some suspect fixed clamp eg Eag… If care is taken to remove any drawback, you could potentially have just as accurate and precise string bed as a mid level eCP. it’s just harder to have the same consistency which is why many of us went the eCP w FC route.
am1899
Legend
Sardines
Hall of Fame
The point of stringing at any given tension number is the playability. "Accuracy" is stringbed consistency, and for me at least, reasonable adjustability based on my skills. Each machine, although pulling accurately within 0.5lbs of desired tension, is still subject to little things like stringer attention to detail, etc etc. My "sweet spot" with the PS is 2lbs higher than my usual stringer's Baiardo. Do I prefer my stringer's Baiardo to say another stringer's newer Yonex machine, who strings for the Yonex team in AO? Yes. Consistency is more than just xx/xx lbs. Well maintained clamps (flying or fixed), good stringing skills, and the same machine helps a lot more than all machines calibrated to different scales etc. Obviously type of strings matter. I tend to be a lot less fussy with poly hybrid tensions than gut/poly hybrids.
Irving will explain it all soon enough.
USMC-615
Hall of Fame
I'm all in on this theory right here...I'd bet the farm.
am1899
Legend
Yeah. I’m no physicist. But logically I would think fixed clamps in good working order would be a lot more likely to mitigate drawback than floating clamps - most notably due to the friction with a base clamp being physically attached to the machine. Skeptics would probably point out that floating clamps clamp more than one string. Regardless, I don’t see how that makes for an equal playing field in the friction respect. (And for me, anecdotally, all the moving and twisting common amongst floating clamps bears that out).
Edit: And I know, John Elliot (and others) have made statements to the contrary. Let’s just say I find John’s statements at least highly suspect, given his cozy relationship with a certain manufacturer. <Cough, cough>!
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If they are doing that for you, just what do you think customer service would be if you have issues with unit. I would go with a more reputable company , just my opinion.
I could not agree more with you. Unfortunately, it's done. Customer service is playing with me and all their social media does not work. At this point, I just want to share with the Tennis Community what happened to me with Pro Stringer.
Sardines
Hall of Fame
I had a 2-3 week delay on my recent parts orders too. They sent me an email explaining it was a supply/factory issue, and I decided to wait, and it arrived 3 weeks later than expected. And after a bit of back and forth with Pro Stringer regarding the product, I'm happy with it.
I don't think you are being fair here. It's one thing if they aren't delivering the unit without explanation. From what you've described, you are unwilling to wait for their delayed product, which was explained to you, to be ready for shipping. Cancel the order, because it's well within your rights.
All manufacturers have product delays. Especially nowadays, with sudden soaring costs of supplies, staff etc etc post pandemic. Many manufacturers are cutting down staff with automation, and that is a guaranteed delay. My wife prebought a Tesla Y, and it was delayed, with the explanation of factory delays, but no delivery date, so we went with another make. My neighbor took our spot and loves his Y. The consumer has the right to cancel an order due to delays. However, I personally think it's not fair to disparage based on an explained delayed delivery, when you can easily cancel your order and purchase other stringers. You have options which you can exercise.
I don't think you are being fair here. It's one thing if they aren't delivering the unit without explanation. From what you've described, you are unwilling to wait for their delayed product, which was explained to you, to be ready for shipping. Cancel the order, because it's well within your rights.
All manufacturers have product delays. Especially nowadays, with sudden soaring costs of supplies, staff etc etc post pandemic. Many manufacturers are cutting down staff with automation, and that is a guaranteed delay. My wife prebought a Tesla Y, and it was delayed, with the explanation of factory delays, but no delivery date, so we went with another make. My neighbor took our spot and loves his Y. The consumer has the right to cancel an order due to delays. However, I personally think it's not fair to disparage based on an explained delayed delivery, when you can easily cancel your order and purchase other stringers. You have options which you can exercise.
finalfantasy7
Semi-Pro
Have a members babolat strike 18x20 98sq inch racket, her wants it strung at 55lbs with volkl v square 17g= poly. Will be doing a 2 peice, want to have nothing over 2 inchs inches for each tie off.
How much in feet would you recommend to use for mains / crosses?
If anyone can just list how much they use for 16x19 and 18x20 for 95sq / 98 sq / 100sq / 104sq / 110sq inch rackets = would be greatly appreciated
How much in feet would you recommend to use for mains / crosses?
If anyone can just list how much they use for 16x19 and 18x20 for 95sq / 98 sq / 100sq / 104sq / 110sq inch rackets = would be greatly appreciated
@finalfantasy7,
Before I provide you with any string lengths, I definitely want to clarify the following...
It sounds like you are saying that, after you have tensioned & clamped off the 9th/outer main on each side, you want to have only 2 inches of string to be protruding from the frame?
Furthermore, after you've tensioned/clamped the 20th/final cross string, you want only 2 inches protruding from the frame??
Is this indeed what you really want?
I'm just clarifying, because only 2 inches doesn’t seem like you'd even be able to tie your finishing knots.
I, myself, use the minimum amount in order to still comfortably tie my Parnell knots (and that requires a tail about 8 inches long).
Obviously, I realize that the tail could be a little shorter if using a finishing knot - such as a Double Half Hitch - which doesn't use a "cinching loop" (such as the Parnell Knot and the Wilson Pro knot).
However, a 2 inch tail seems like you wouldn't be able to tie any kind of knot.
So, please clarify.
BTW, what finishing knot do you plan to use (that presumably can be tied with only 2 inches)?
esgee48
G.O.A.T.
Can’t be right in that spec. Even a DHH needs at least 4” as a tail. As a full bed one piece, I would expect to lose about 16-20” in wastage. My nearest equivalent is a Blade 18x20 98 and 37’ pulled from reel of 1.23mm SPPP. Need to use Starting knot in Op’s case since I would do 1 piece ATW.
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Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
You WANT to have 2” for each tie off? May I ask why?
USMC-615
Hall of Fame
My thoughts exactly when I read it earlier.@finalfantasy7,
Before I provide you with any string lengths, I definitely want to clarify the following...
It sounds like you are saying that, after you have tensioned & clamped off the 9th/outer main on each side, you want to have only 2 inches of string to be protruding from the frame?
Furthermore, after you've tensioned/clamped the 20th/final cross string, you want only 2 inches protruding from the frame??
Is this indeed what you really want?
I'm just clarifying, because only 2 inches doesn’t seem like you'd even be able to tie your finishing knots.
I, myself, use the minimum amount in order to still comfortably tie my Parnell knots (and that requires a tail about 8 inches long).
Obviously, I realize that the tail could be a little shorter if using a finishing knot - such as a Double Half Hitch - which doesn't use a "cinching loop" (such as the Parnell Knot and the Wilson Pro knot).
However, a 2 inch tail seems like you wouldn't be able to tie any kind of knot.
So, please clarify.
BTW, what finishing knot do you plan to use (that presumably can be tied with only 2 inches)?
onehandbh
G.O.A.T.
Which other dropweight machines did you compare it to? How did you measure the accuracy? Did you measure each pull? or a sample pull at various tensions?
I have tried using a PS, but I did do a test on my Stringway ML90.
That's kind of my point.
If he/she really wants just 2", I can likely provide that info.
However, I don't want someone's string job to end up failing because they didn't appropriate enough string to actually tie off.
I only throw away roughly 10 inches total (for 1pc. stringing).
Like I mentioned, I routinely use the bare minimum (which leaves only 8-9" tails to comfortably tie my Parnell knots).
This means that, after tying the Parnell knots, the 2 tail pieces that are cut off are only ~5" each.
finalfantasy7
Semi-Pro
Hi Wes,@finalfantasy7,
Before I provide you with any string lengths, I definitely want to clarify the following...
It sounds like you are saying that, after you have tensioned & clamped off the 9th/outer main on each side, you want to have only 2 inches of string to be protruding from the frame?
Furthermore, after you've tensioned/clamped the 20th/final cross string, you want only 2 inches protruding from the frame??
Is this indeed what you really want?
I'm just clarifying, because only 2 inches doesn’t seem like you'd even be able to tie your finishing knots.
I, myself, use the minimum amount in order to still comfortably tie my Parnell knots (and that requires a tail about 8 inches long).
Obviously, I realize that the tail could be a little shorter if using a finishing knot - such as a Double Half Hitch - which doesn't use a "cinching loop" (such as the Parnell Knot and the Wilson Pro knot).
However, a 2 inch tail seems like you wouldn't be able to tie any kind of knot.
So, please clarify.
BTW, what finishing knot do you plan to use (that presumably can be tied with only 2 inches)?
i do use the parnell knot for all tie offs, sorry 2 inches is too small but i can do a parnell knot with 5 inches after cutting
finalfantasy7
Semi-Pro
yeh sorry 2 inches too small, 4-5inches after tie off, im looking for - just want as little as waste as possible
finalfantasy7
Semi-Pro
sorry.. should have said around 5 inches after cutt off - just want as little waste as possible
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
@finalfantasy7,
To do that 18x20 Pure Strike, two piece, on your Pro Stringer...
Use 19'4" for the mains (be sure both sides/halves are dead even).
For the crosses, it depends on whether you are using a starting clamp to hold the top cross... or if you are using a starting knot.
If using a starting clamp for the top X, use 16'9" (leave only 8" of top X string protruding from the frame).
If using the standard starting knot for the top X, use 16'4"
To do that 18x20 Pure Strike, two piece, on your Pro Stringer...
Use 19'4" for the mains (be sure both sides/halves are dead even).
For the crosses, it depends on whether you are using a starting clamp to hold the top cross... or if you are using a starting knot.
If using a starting clamp for the top X, use 16'9" (leave only 8" of top X string protruding from the frame).
If using the standard starting knot for the top X, use 16'4"
finalfantasy7
Semi-Pro
@Wes,
Thanks, for that, unfortunately i already sstrung it and used 19'7.5" for mains n 17 for crosses, believed i used 4inches too much for mains(11inches after cutt off) and 8 inches too much for crosses.
But i do appreciate the above,
But can someone list = much they use for 16x19 and 18x20 for 95sq / 98 sq / 100sq / 104sq / 110sq inch rackets = would be greatly appreciated - just so i can take a picture and have it on my phone - just easier for me to keep hold off.
@Irvin Thanks for you videos, watched many of them - now subscribed
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
Thank you!
Sardines
Hall of Fame
That depends on what racquet you have. It's simple calculus to optimize a reel for your particular racquet. The nice thing about the PS is that we can squeeze 38 x 5.26m for crosses in a 200m reel or 42x5.24m for a 220m reel, using the pro or parnell knots. That's more than enough for 98 or 100 19 cross, at least the Yonex and Tecnifibre racquets we have. For mains, we cut at 5.4m which is suffice also. For my 16x20 SV98+, we need 5.37m for the crosses. So I have a separate reel of crosses for 5.4m @ 37 half sets.
finalfantasy7
Semi-Pro
ok , can you post the same request with 2 between measurements - that will cover all bases. Thank you
Sardines
Hall of Fame
I don't understand your request? As I've said, the measurements are optimized for our frames.
finalfantasy7
Semi-Pro
clearly your a liar
jasonfoong
New User
I'm not sure why the need for such harsh comment.
Compare 2 rackets, Yonex Vcore 97 & Wilson Prostaff 95.
VC 97 need more strings than PS 95 right?
It depends, VC 97 isometric with a bit of fan shape might
need more strings compared to symmetrical PS 95.
But then, I have problem mounting VC97, due
to the shorter head to throat (isometric),
but can mount the round shaped PS 95 easily.
So, being "shorter", does it mean VC 97 need less main strings?
There is no 1 or 2 measurements that fits all, it really depends.
Sardines
Hall of Fame
Funny you say that, cos for my kids and I, Yonex are the easiest to mount because they literally have a mark on the center of the grommet to show you where the middle 2 mains are. Then you just have to mount the throat correctly between the middle grommets (either 3 aside or 4 aside depending on throat mains). I mount Yonex a little faster than TF and even Wilson.
As for string length, it's also imperative to measure grommet gaps and even frame depth, to approximate string needed. Then it's just rudimentary calculus to optimize a reel. Normal stringing machines don't pull from the frame, so they need the extra length to reach the pull. With my proshop stringer, he needs about 40cm more for mains and crosses, or 5.85m for my sticks, which is 34 sets in a reel.
The ProStringer pulls at the frame, so you only really need however much string to reach the tie off hole plus the necessary length to comfortably tie off, and obvious enough for the pull lock, which for me is about. My kids have undermeasured a few cm here and there, but have the wonderful dexterity to tie off pro knots with 2 needle nose pliers.
As for string length, it's also imperative to measure grommet gaps and even frame depth, to approximate string needed. Then it's just rudimentary calculus to optimize a reel. Normal stringing machines don't pull from the frame, so they need the extra length to reach the pull. With my proshop stringer, he needs about 40cm more for mains and crosses, or 5.85m for my sticks, which is 34 sets in a reel.
The ProStringer pulls at the frame, so you only really need however much string to reach the tie off hole plus the necessary length to comfortably tie off, and obvious enough for the pull lock, which for me is about. My kids have undermeasured a few cm here and there, but have the wonderful dexterity to tie off pro knots with 2 needle nose pliers.
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jasonfoong
New User
Generally I don't have any problem with Yonex frames.
Certain models that "suppose" to be larger 97" & 98" eg:
Vcore Pro 97, Ezone 98, 12 & 6 o'clock of the frame are
relatively shorter than other brand's 97 (Wilson) & 98.
These models are hard to mount, I always use a spacer
at 12 & 6 o'clock, with the spacer, it is closed to impossible
to mount them, just too narrow.
That's my point.
Fed up with mounting this "shorter" frame, I've requested
ProStringer to made a shorter mounting bar for me.
Which they helped me without any fuss.
I'm grateful for that, so now, mounting & stringing
the Vcore Pro 97 & occassional ProStaff 90 & 85 is much easier.
Can’t seem to find anything about this x-mount from their website and googling has also failed me somewhat. Where can I look into/buy this new mount?
