Pro Stringer Platinum 2.0 review

Do you have the X2 mount or the original mount on the PS2? That smaller adapter is for the X2 mount when pulling on the top mount head. The original mount does not need that piece. It is not for the throat pull. for the I would suggest you stop doing throat pulls once I got the butt cap pull adapter. It's a much easier stringing process from the cap than the throat. Pro Stringer has instructions on this:


Regarding string damage on tension head, other than the normal bending of the string, I've strung natural gut, even the cheap V5 ones and never had a scuff. We use round polys and still string with the PS2.0 on the road. My kids have not complained about string scuffing. I suggest you contact Pro Stringer regarding this issue. Perhaps @James_PS can help out.
in this video you linked though the machine begins to angle itself when pulling the tension and the tension set wheel goes underneath the racquets throat. my tension wheel has never gone below the throat, not sure if it’s because the mount i have or not, with a dunlop cx 200 tour as well.
 
in this video you linked though the machine begins to angle itself when pulling the tension and the tension set wheel goes underneath the racquets throat. my tension wheel has never gone below the throat, not sure if it’s because the mount i have or not, with a dunlop cx 200 tour as well.
There are 2 mounts, the new black ModuleX mount and the older gray model. I only remember the PS2.0 being sold with the gray original mount, which is not height adjustable. The X mount is height adjustable.
I suggest you use the cap pull adapter (over or under the grip is up to you) and avoid the throat pull totally.
 
There are 2 mounts, the new black ModuleX mount and the older gray model. I only remember the PS2.0 being sold with the gray original mount, which is not height adjustable. The X mount is height adjustable.
I suggest you use the cap pull adapter (over or under the grip is up to you) and avoid the throat pull totally.
throat pull with the adapter seems to work just fine, haven’t had the issue for a while. big thing is just the marks on the strings.
 
That you will have to contact Pro Stringer directly. It should not be doing that. We have not had that issue, nor have I heard of it.
throat pull with the adapter seems to work just fine, haven’t had the issue for a while. big thing is just the marks on the strings.
 
@James_PS this has been an issue for me from the beginning. i didn’t know much better as it was my first machine.
The tensioning device of my PS 2.0 also leaves grooves on my Polys. It would be cool to know if there's a way to avoid this. So far, with two years of use, I can't say that the grooves have hurt my string bed playability or durability.
 
The tensioning device of my PS 2.0 also leaves grooves on my Polys. It would be cool to know if there's a way to avoid this. So far, with two years of use, I can't say that the grooves have hurt my string bed playability or durability.
i agree. glad to hear im not the only one with this problem. it’s just a little annoying.
 
The tensioning device of my PS 2.0 also leaves grooves on my Polys. It would be cool to know if there's a way to avoid this. So far, with two years of use, I can't say that the grooves have hurt my string bed playability or durability.
Contact Pro Stringer and get the butt cap pull adapter. We've been using it for 5 years now and not done one throat pull at all.
 
butt cap adapter does not affect the marking of the strings.
I misread his question. I suggest you both contact Pro Stringer directly. There are too many variables for a forum to troubleshoot. It could be user error, machine problem etc.
 
I misread his question. I suggest you both contact Pro Stringer directly. There are too many variables for a forum to troubleshoot. It could be user error, machine problem etc.
i just don’t know if there’s anything they could do, i’ve had it over a year.
 
i just don’t know if there’s anything they could do, i’ve had it over a year.
Well I'm sorry you didn't feel the need to bring it up to them earlier, but better late than never? They gave me the butt pull adapter because I contacted them as soon as I had the issue with natural gut and the throat pull. So they are reasonably responsive, at least to me.
 
Well I'm sorry you didn't feel the need to bring it up to them earlier, but better late than never? They gave me the butt pull adapter because I contacted them as soon as I had the issue with natural gut and the throat pull. So they are reasonably responsive, at least to me.
yeah they gave me the butt cap adapter. i didn’t really notice it til later and then just didn’t do anything cause it didn’t affect playability. like i said, this was my first machine. i’ll give it a shot.
 
Ok so I may have been too stupid to ask this, but how bad are these indentations? It's normal to have a minor "ghosting", especially on soft strings. It's only bad if it's crushing the strings. Even the most expensive machines can create cosmetic indentations,
 
Ok so I may have been too stupid to ask this, but how bad are these indentations? It's normal to have a minor "ghosting", especially on soft strings. It's only bad if it's crushing the strings. Even the most expensive machines can create cosmetic indentations,
Mine are getting scuffed with the first few pulls, so I can feel the friction when I weave crosses around those 2 inch sections of string at the bottom and top of the hoop.
 
Mine are getting scuffed with the first few pulls, so I can feel the friction when I weave crosses around those 2 inch sections of string at the bottom and top of the hoop.
The more important question is that are these scuffs causing premature breakage of the strings?
 
The more important question is that are these scuffs causing premature breakage of the strings?
This is hard to say, though the scuffs are enough of a texture to remove the slick feeling of poly strings I use (o-toro and polystar)

It’s been more of a nuisance than a real problem - I love the PS and how compact it is. No way I couldn’t a full size device in my apartment, so this has been a nice addition.
 
This is hard to say, though the scuffs are enough of a texture to remove the slick feeling of poly strings I use (o-toro and polystar)

It’s been more of a nuisance than a real problem - I love the PS and how compact it is. No way I couldn’t a full size device in my apartment, so this has been a nice addition.
pretty much exactly my case
 
As mentioned, minor ghosting is sometimes inevitable with soft strings. If it's crushing the string and causing premature breaks, then it's a real issue. Minimal cosmetic blemishing on soft strings is showing the gripper is working. Now if the scuffs look like the gripper is slipping, then that's a problem too. To test, next time mark the string where it enters the gripper, if there is slippage, it should show.
 
As mentioned, minor ghosting is sometimes inevitable with soft strings. If it's crushing the string and causing premature breaks, then it's a real issue. Minimal cosmetic blemishing on soft strings is showing the gripper is working. Now if the scuffs look like the gripper is slipping, then that's a problem too. To test, next time mark the string where it enters the gripper, if there is slippage, it should show.
Thanks for this suggestion- I have one or two to string up this weekend so I’ll try that.
 
i haven’t emailed them. i may.
Hi. Apologies for my delayed response.

In terms of string marking with P2 I would need more information to respond. The short answer is to reach out directly to the PS help team with a video clearly showing what is happening so they can assess what’s going on and provide direct assistance to you.

The P2 tension jaw does make use of a pattern with ridges to help prevent the string from slipping. The tensioning unit is designed to give the user an options of placing the string directly into the tension jaw OR wrapping the string around the tension head before inserting into the jaw. In order to diminish or reduce the marking that can occur on some strings, I suggest wrapping the string around the head before inserting into the jaw. When placing string directly into jaws without wrapping, there is slightly more direct pressure on the string during the pull and the ridges of the jaw can imprint onto the string. This is most visible on some poly based offerings. I do not believe it impacts the performance or the playability.

It’s unclear to me if this explains what is being described as a marking issue. These ridges can sometimes leave a light impression on some poly based strings even when wrapped around the jaw. Again, this should not impact performance but it’s not clear if this is the same marking being discussed in this thread. It may be something else and if it is, then PS help needs to be notified so they can provide personalized assistance.
 
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James, I believe you are talking about the Cybex, which has the wrap around and the jaw is wider away from the string guide. The Platinum series tension jaw opening is widing closer to the guide, and narrower away from it. Pro Stringer videos all show the string is inserted from the guide.
The P2 tension jaw does make use of a pattern with ridges to help prevent the string from slipping. The tensioning unit is designed to have the user wrap the string around the tension head before inserting into the jaw. Please make sure you are wrapping the string around the head before inserting into jaws. When placing string directly into jaws without wrapping, users will indeed see some visual ridges where the jaws grab the string. This is most visible on some poly based offerings. I do not believe it impacts the performance or the playability.
 
James, I believe you are talking about the Cybex, which has the wrap around and the jaw is wider away from the string guide. The Platinum series tension jaw opening is widing closer to the guide, and narrower away from it. Pro Stringer videos all show the string is inserted from the guide.
yep. 2:35 is this video shows no wraparound
 
The kids came home this weekend, and I watched one of them string one of my test sticks with V-Square mains and Gosen G Tour 3, both soft polys. Neither had crushing, but a couple of pulls had very minor indentations, aka ghosting, on the V-Square. This occasionally occurs when the square profile V-Square isn't placed flat into the jaws. The gripper will cause the square edges to be a little indented. All our breakage for polys have been in the hitting area in the upper hoop. I've hit with this stick for 3 hrs now, and other than a bit of notching in the upper sweetspot area, there is extra wear on the string, as per normal.
 
The kids came home this weekend, and I watched one of them string one of my test sticks with V-Square mains and Gosen G Tour 3, both soft polys. Neither had crushing, but a couple of pulls had very minor indentations, aka ghosting, on the V-Square. This occasionally occurs when the square profile V-Square isn't placed flat into the jaws. The gripper will cause the square edges to be a little indented. All our breakage for polys have been in the hitting area in the upper hoop. I've hit with this stick for 3 hrs now, and other than a bit of notching in the upper sweetspot area, there is extra wear on the string, as per normal.
yeah, I've never noticed it to affect playbility. I do have marking on almost every string, shaped or round though.
 
yeah, I've never noticed it to affect playbility. I do have marking on almost every string, shaped or round though.
I still suggest you contact PS. As noted before, there are ways to adjust certain things, and that may alleviate your symptoms.
 
James, I believe you are talking about the Cybex, which has the wrap around and the jaw is wider away from the string guide. The Platinum series tension jaw opening is widing closer to the guide, and narrower away from it. Pro Stringer videos all show the string is inserted from the guide.
Thanks for keeping me honest. I was on the road and in a hurry to respond. I should have explained a bit better. Yes, string can be placed directly into the tension jaw, and that is what most users do because it is an efficient way to handle the tensioning, but the string can also be wrapped around the head on the Platinum. For Cybex it must be wrapped around the head before going into the jaw. I have updated my original post above to suggest using the wrap as an option to reduce or eliminate the marking. Though I am not certain if there is a different type of marking going on for the OP. It may also be a rough or not fully refined edge on the tension jaw which can leave a much different type of mark. This is not common but I have seen it before and is something that can be repaired.
 
Well I think you may want to consult the Korean designer first. Anyone wanting to try the wrap around method may want to try that with a test string first, for 2 reasons. The jaw entry is wider and rounded on the guide side. There is also a spring mechanism to that that catches the string gently into the tension wheel head. The other side of the jaws is sharply angled. I would not want to string any gut or soft string via that end as the pulling edge.
 
Well I think you may want to consult the Korean designer first. Anyone wanting to try the wrap around method may want to try that with a test string first, for 2 reasons. The jaw entry is wider and rounded on the guide side. There is also a spring mechanism to that that catches the string gently into the tension wheel head. The other side of the jaws is sharply angled. I would not want to string any gut or soft string via that end as the pulling edge.
i think he means wrapping it around 360 vs 180. could be wrong though.
 
i think he means wrapping it around 360 vs 180. could be wrong though.
It's the "teeth" causing the indentations, a wrap around may give it a slightly gentler initial pull, but the "teeth" would still be gripping on the string? I'll see if I can get the kids to replicate the issue with test gut with both methods.
 
Thanks for keeping me honest. I was on the road and in a hurry to respond. I should have explained a bit better. Yes, string can be placed directly into the tension jaw, and that is what most users do because it is an efficient way to handle the tensioning, but the string can also be wrapped around the head on the Platinum. For Cybex it must be wrapped around the head before going into the jaw. I have updated my original post above to suggest using the wrap as an option to reduce or eliminate the marking. Though I am not certain if there is a different type of marking going on for the OP. It may also be a rough or not fully refined edge on the tension jaw which can leave a much different type of mark. This is not common but I have seen it before and is something that can be repaired.
I think in my case it’s a rougher unrefined edge - I’ll reach out to the team and see what is suggested.
 
Looking at the demo: pulling tension under 90degree... What tension do you get inside the frame. This method is giving serious friction.
The whole system seems to be more suited to McGyver hobbyists than to someone who needs to string a lot of rackets in a short time and to a high standard.
I'm also not sure whether the flying clamps apply the actual stringing weight to the frame as intended.
When you watch the videos showing how they have to be strung, you get endless stomach ache. :sick:
 
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