Pro's Pro Strings!?

Karstic

Rookie
Tnx. I mostly play > 300gr frames myself although 97-100 inch. Could it be it didnt was nt there for you during winter when temperature is lower? I think it is sometimes overlooked that balls and strings can be a lot stiffer and deader then. stringing at lower tension could help.
I don't think it's a temperature issue. I have large loopy swings, and it takes a while for the timing and muscle memory to come back and make a firm and solid connection. Plus, I'm just now getting my strength back from the last two years. The "Ping!" I was hearing on contact a month ago is now a more consistent "Thwock!". Very satisfying. Pushing sixty years of age doesn't help either.
 

esm

Hall of Fame
i agree with Lucie... i think it all comes down to what people are prepared to pay vs. what their peer/friends use vs. how often they get new string job.

for myself - i am not young anymore and i don't do tournaments, but social sessions and local leagues.... i do my own string job because i enjoy the process (both technical and learning)... so I can cut out and do new one at anytime. juts as well i am currently loving the PP Syn Gut 1.30 and the Angell Halo 3 - they suit me for the first 8-10 hours if i stretch it... but usually i get a new string job at around 6 hours.

200m reel of PP is cheap enough, but i believe it is of a decent quality. the Angell Halo 3 is abit more pricy, but i don't mind. I bought loads more PP syn gut reels when i bought a new PP stringing machine recently.

i played for a short while with the Eruption at low tension (33/30lb) on my Angell racquets (more green than black and i think green is softer...) - it was fun, but i moved back to the syn gut in the end - if i remembered correctly, fb of Pp co-poly would play nice and lasts for around 4 hours for me.. 8-B
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
Black Force is dent/notch resistant?
Do you know what is the most dent/notch resistant string from PP?
I do not know..
for me, it's been a long time since with poly (in full bed or cross) that the wear criterion is no longer useful for replacing the strings.
for me, if we use poly, it is for control only. to have that surgical bullet aspect, precision. the sliding side (poly round) helping with the snapback is the second criterion for (using poly).

wear does not interest me in poly, since you can always take a bigger gauge - there are great poly in PP very big, like the Plus Power in 1.33mm) that it is practically impossible to break !.

when we mix all these criteria, control, snapback, and we take into consideration the price of poly at PP, then we replace the strings from the moment they are dead. in an S-gut / poly hybrid I think it happens at around 6 o'clock with black force, it's long enough to not regret cutting and replacing (which is difficult to imagine on a biphase / luxilon set for example that 'you have to cut after 5 hours but which costs more than $ 18 per hybrid !.


the most important thing that it was like a lie for me, on the part of the string industry, and also on the part of the sellers, it is the durability aspect (against wear) of poly strings. if you start to want to buy a rope that lasts a long time (wear) you should definitely not use poly. it is the worst solution. (or how to hope to save money by killing his arm with TE).

the only string that can last a long time without causing TE is in my opinion a natural gut / pure kevlar hybrid. (use kevlar cross in 1.10mm).

and then we can play until naty breaks. if necessary, use stringsaver. but hope to save money by using poly until it breaks is not respecting your arm !.

maybe also look at poly free mono. like babolat origin, like the still in black zyex, i think discho original big star too. but the poly dies too quickly to be kept more 16 hours (kirsch evo, max power, yonex poly tour air) for example!.
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
I do not know..
for me, it's been a long time since with poly (in full bed or cross) that the wear criterion is no longer useful for replacing the strings.
for me, if we use poly, it is for control only. to have that surgical bullet aspect, precision. the sliding side (poly round) helping with the snapback is the second criterion for (using poly).

wear does not interest me in poly, since you can always take a bigger gauge - there are great poly in PP very big, like the Plus Power in 1.33mm) that it is practically impossible to break !.

when we mix all these criteria, control, snapback, and we take into consideration the price of poly at PP, then we replace the strings from the moment they are dead. in an S-gut / poly hybrid I think it happens at around 6 o'clock with black force, it's long enough to not regret cutting and replacing (which is difficult to imagine on a biphase / luxilon set for example that 'you have to cut after 5 hours but which costs more than $ 18 per hybrid !.


the most important thing that it was like a lie for me, on the part of the string industry, and also on the part of the sellers, it is the durability aspect (against wear) of poly strings. if you start to want to buy a rope that lasts a long time (wear) you should definitely not use poly. it is the worst solution. (or how to hope to save money by killing his arm with TE).

the only string that can last a long time without causing TE is in my opinion a natural gut / pure kevlar hybrid. (use kevlar cross in 1.10mm).

and then we can play until naty breaks. if necessary, use stringsaver. but hope to save money by using poly until it breaks is not respecting your arm !.

maybe also look at poly free mono. like babolat origin, like the still in black zyex, i think discho original big star too. but the poly dies too quickly to be kept more 16 hours (kirsch evo, max power, yonex poly tour air) for example!.
Black Force is very slick? More than Eruption?
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
black force is a perfect round poly.. (very similar to red devil, who exist on 1.14mm too). but i prefeer black force... (for the color, but on few day i'm going to restring my two tour lite(green and black frame) red capped with s-gut PP red, and red devil 1.14mm on cross..)
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
I will try the hybrids : Black Out 1.28/Black Force 1.24 and Black Out 1.28/Black Eruption 1.24
the good question is: why do?

what do you expect from a hybrid?
I usually use a hybrid for very specific purposes.
a round poly will give a natural gut a little more solidity, and will allow naty a more consistent glide, and will also lower the price (half a naty!).

on a s-gut, I would also put a round poly, very slippery (the best for me being the red code wax and the poly tour fire). to do like the naty, but more in order to give control to s-gut.

in a poly / poly hybrid, I would use a finer gauge in the crosses, using for example at PP Plus Power in 1.28mm with a thinner cross of Plus Power too, in 1.18 or 1.14mm. the largest being for resistance to wear, so that it can last at least 12 to 14 hours. but not beyond.

in your case, using a structured poly is a good idea, but it will wear out the crosses prematurely, and using a structured poly in the crosses (like eruption) unless you have something very very very specific, I don't see the 'utility!

me, short of fine poly, I put on a racket a hybrid multifeel with a hyper G, which is structured, but especially which was in gauge 1.05mm. I used it not for the structure, but especially for the very fine gauge !.

hybrids are not an exact science, but I think I must avoid doing anything hoping to find the miracle solution.

in addition, I find blackout and eruption very close in sensations and flexibility. when we make a hybrid, we try to find strings a little opposite from each other, in order to find a fair compromise. (the hybrid is never the sum of the two, but half the sum of the two!).
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
the good question is: why do?

what do you expect from a hybrid?
I usually use a hybrid for very specific purposes.
a round poly will give a natural gut a little more solidity, and will allow naty a more consistent glide, and will also lower the price (half a naty!).

on a s-gut, I would also put a round poly, very slippery (the best for me being the red code wax and the poly tour fire). to do like the naty, but more in order to give control to s-gut.

in a poly / poly hybrid, I would use a finer gauge in the crosses, using for example at PP Plus Power in 1.28mm with a thinner cross of Plus Power too, in 1.18 or 1.14mm. the largest being for resistance to wear, so that it can last at least 12 to 14 hours. but not beyond.

in your case, using a structured poly is a good idea, but it will wear out the crosses prematurely, and using a structured poly in the crosses (like eruption) unless you have something very very very specific, I don't see the 'utility!

me, short of fine poly, I put on a racket a hybrid multifeel with a hyper G, which is structured, but especially which was in gauge 1.05mm. I used it not for the structure, but especially for the very fine gauge !.

hybrids are not an exact science, but I think I must avoid doing anything hoping to find the miracle solution.

in addition, I find blackout and eruption very close in sensations and flexibility. when we make a hybrid, we try to find strings a little opposite from each other, in order to find a fair compromise. (the hybrid is never the sum of the two, but half the sum of the two!).
I know exactly what I want, and need, thanks. :)
If I try that setup it's just a budget purpose... Because I can't pay for my beloved Hyper-G at the moment...
And I'm also (always) curious! :)
 

1HBHfanatic

Legend
Are you using Black Out 1.28 crossed with Black Force 1.19?
What tension? And what frame?
Thanks
- i left the tension/racquet out, for the reason that it changes, dependent on racquet/pattern
-i typically string MAINS higher, and CROSSES lower (i have tried the other way around, in the past and did not like it)
-but to answer your question directly, i like stringing my yonex.vcore.tour.g(310), 16/20, at 49lbs mains/46lbs crosses
-and yes, the pp.black-out is the 5 sided poly, so i want that in the MAINS
-the pp.black force is the round slick thin poly which helps with the snapback on the CROSSES
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
- i left the tension/racquet out, for the reason that it changes, dependent on racquet/pattern
-i typically string MAINS higher, and CROSSES lower (i have tried the other way around, in the past and did not like it)
-but to answer your question directly, i like stringing my yonex.vcore.tour.g(310), 16/20, at 49lbs mains/46lbs crosses
-and yes, the pp.black-out is the 5 sided poly, so i want that in the MAINS
-the pp.black force is the round slick thin poly which helps with the snapback on the CROSSES
I asked to know if it was the right gauges you are using... I know perfectly the concept of slick thin round poly in the cross for good snapback... ;)
Black Force is not too soft? It keeps tension correctly (for 10h max)? And does it dent/notch easily?
 
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1HBHfanatic

Legend
I asked to know if it was the right gauges you are using... I know perfectly the concept of slick thin round poly in the cross for good snapback... ;)
Black Force is not too soft? It keeps tension correctly (for 10h max)? And does it dent/notch easily?
-yes, eventually, like all do!
-but pp strings are a bit on the softer side, IME
-i haven't noticed CRAZY string degradation!! and/or maybe i am not that sensitive to be affected by it
-they are ,"good enough" for what i do at a 4.5 level
-i do however have to say that college and high level (5.0s and up) players, would stress the string too quickly
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
-yes, eventually, like all do!
-but pp strings are a bit on the softer side, IME
-i haven't noticed CRAZY string degradation!! and/or maybe i am not that sensitive to be affected by it
-they are ,"good enough" for what i do at a 4.5 level
-i do however have to say that college and high level (5.0s and up) players, would stress the string too quickly
Ordered some sets to try:
Black Out 1.28/Black Force 1.24
Black Out 1.28/Black Eruption 1.24
Black Out 1.28 full bed
Black Out 1.24 full bed
Eruption 1.30 full bed
Black Eruption 1.30 full bed
Will see what happen... :sneaky:
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
with a little nastiness, I would say that:
if you cannot wait 10 hours of tension stability with the majority of branded strings costing 3 to 5 times more expensive than PP (apart from a few rare references as mentioned above, pre-stretch kirschbaum, some strings like black magic, yonex poly tour air maybe and a few others, generally, in full bed it is common to replace its strings after 8h I think. you will tell me of course that it is always possible to push until 10h , it is even possible to leave 50 or 75 hours.

it's up to you to decide what's good for you, for your arms!
it's like frying oil, you can continue to fry food in the same oil for months and years. but is it good for you? not sure. for poly string i think it's the same thing!

at the poly level, as mentioned so many times, the poly miracle does'nt exist. because, because of its elementary chemical composition, the materials which compose it will never be able to acquire the properties that so many people desire.

the poly was never designed to have optimal tension stability. it is not and it will not be his priority.

it is a string that was designed to be a little more resistant to abrasion, to be a little more nervous and provide a little more control, and to be manufactured at a very low price.

the difficulty is that some brands have taken this last characteristic as a possibility of considerably increasing their profits, by multiplying their margins.

in the minds of players these high prices have been interpreted as absolute durability (abrasion resistance and tension stability). but there was (and still is) a scam about it. poly strings do not last in terms of playability. they become a danger to the tendons very quickly.

I am a true PP advocate, as a manufacturer / seller of strings at a fair price. without trying to scam people, without trying to make ultra profits. but one cannot demand miracles from these products.

the miraculous string does not exist.
there is always a compromise to be made.
the dream of any player would be I think a string that is the best in all compartments, maximum control, power, spin, durability, resistance to abrasion and breakage, unlimited tension stability, a exceptional comfort, all sold at a ridiculous price.

but it doesn't exist.

some strings manage to obtain two toris four of these characteristics, such as natural gut, which happens to mix control, power, comfort and tension stability .. but at a relatively high price, and real fragility.

others manage to combine several characteristics, but last only a few hours at the level of tension stability, like luxilon alu power.

we must not dream. I think that once again, you have to know how to accept certain constraints and compromises.

in my case, the best compromise obtained is: having a machine, at least 3 to 4 frames and using a s-gut / poly hybrid for less than $ 2.5, and changing every 3 to 5 hours of play. For my part, there is no better solution that can bring together the maximum of characteristics expected by a player.


there are some attempts which have succeeded or not, in the manufacture of products which attempt to group together the characteristics developed here.

I would quote:
origin babolat
luxilon element
X-10 and X-12 still in black
mono gut from ashaway (

in another isospeed cream category.
some specific hybrids, such as kevlar / natural gut with stringsaver.

but poly is definitely not the silver bullet. it is a solution, among many others. but the tension stability does not enter into the design specifications of these strings.

note that these more or less successful attempts do not cost the price of PP .. and that you understand that at some point, between an origin, an element or a cream that will cost $ 15-20, and that will break after 8 hours for the best, but I break an original after 8 h, you will understand that ultimately replacing a PP every 6 hours will ultimately be an excellent solution. of course, that means having a machine.

but the savings made by using PP strings will be reimbursed very very quickly.
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
with a little nastiness, I would say that:
if you cannot wait 10 hours of tension stability with the majority of branded strings costing 3 to 5 times more expensive than PP (apart from a few rare references as mentioned above, pre-stretch kirschbaum, some strings like black magic, yonex poly tour air maybe and a few others, generally, in full bed it is common to replace its strings after 8h I think. you will tell me of course that it is always possible to push until 10h , it is even possible to leave 50 or 75 hours.

it's up to you to decide what's good for you, for your arms!
it's like frying oil, you can continue to fry food in the same oil for months and years. but is it good for you? not sure. for poly string i think it's the same thing!

at the poly level, as mentioned so many times, the poly miracle does'nt exist. because, because of its elementary chemical composition, the materials which compose it will never be able to acquire the properties that so many people desire.

the poly was never designed to have optimal tension stability. it is not and it will not be his priority.

it is a string that was designed to be a little more resistant to abrasion, to be a little more nervous and provide a little more control, and to be manufactured at a very low price.

the difficulty is that some brands have taken this last characteristic as a possibility of considerably increasing their profits, by multiplying their margins.

in the minds of players these high prices have been interpreted as absolute durability (abrasion resistance and tension stability). but there was (and still is) a scam about it. poly strings do not last in terms of playability. they become a danger to the tendons very quickly.

I am a true PP advocate, as a manufacturer / seller of strings at a fair price. without trying to scam people, without trying to make ultra profits. but one cannot demand miracles from these products.

the miraculous string does not exist.
there is always a compromise to be made.
the dream of any player would be I think a string that is the best in all compartments, maximum control, power, spin, durability, resistance to abrasion and breakage, unlimited tension stability, a exceptional comfort, all sold at a ridiculous price.

but it doesn't exist.

some strings manage to obtain two toris four of these characteristics, such as natural gut, which happens to mix control, power, comfort and tension stability .. but at a relatively high price, and real fragility.

others manage to combine several characteristics, but last only a few hours at the level of tension stability, like luxilon alu power.

we must not dream. I think that once again, you have to know how to accept certain constraints and compromises.

in my case, the best compromise obtained is: having a machine, at least 3 to 4 frames and using a s-gut / poly hybrid for less than $ 2.5, and changing every 3 to 5 hours of play. For my part, there is no better solution that can bring together the maximum of characteristics expected by a player.


there are some attempts which have succeeded or not, in the manufacture of products which attempt to group together the characteristics developed here.

I would quote:
origin babolat
luxilon element
X-10 and X-12 still in black
mono gut from ashaway (

in another isospeed cream category.
some specific hybrids, such as kevlar / natural gut with stringsaver.

but poly is definitely not the silver bullet. it is a solution, among many others. but the tension stability does not enter into the design specifications of these strings.

note that these more or less successful attempts do not cost the price of PP .. and that you understand that at some point, between an origin, an element or a cream that will cost $ 15-20, and that will break after 8 hours for the best, but I break an original after 8 h, you will understand that ultimately replacing a PP every 6 hours will ultimately be an excellent solution. of course, that means having a machine.

but the savings made by using PP strings will be reimbursed very very quickly.
So many words to explain something I know so well! That's funny!! :D
I'm agree with all.
But I know that I can play really correctly for 10h with my Hyper-G 16, before it breaks.
That's why I ask. I don't want to have a dead noodle moving a lot after only 5 hours of play.... Or breaking too quickly...
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
ha, so you want a string that costs the fifth of hyper G, but which lasts as long as hyper G, and which comes close to it? ..

I think it should not be calculated as it will be a big disappointment. tell yourself that you are going to play with a string which will cost you $ 2, and which will last 4 hours. so, for the price of a hyper G string ($ 10?) you will get 5 PP strings which will last a total of 20 hours, therefore, double hyper G .. from that to say that PP will be twice as good as hyper G ..
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
ha, so you want a string that costs the fifth of hyper G, but which lasts as long as hyper G, and which comes close to it? ..

I think it should not be calculated as it will be a big disappointment. tell yourself that you are going to play with a string which will cost you $ 2, and which will last 4 hours. so, for the price of a hyper G string ($ 10?) you will get 5 PP strings which will last a total of 20 hours, therefore, double hyper G .. from that to say that PP will be twice as good as hyper G ..
:cry:
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
but if you absolutely want to hear that PP eruption 1.18mm for example can do as well, maybe better than hyper-G for more than 10h for less than $ 3 .. I can tell you ...

Yes! it will be better to see better than hyper-G ...

finally, joke over.
it's like a car, you can't want a roadster that can drive like a 4X4 and consume like a city car and it only costs you $ 12,000 ...

I think that very often people criticize PP because they think they can buy a product that costs 4 to 5 times cheaper than another, while wanting it to be as good, to see better. it's impossible. simply.

or else people are convinced or try to convince themselves and inevitably disappointed, and write their big disappointment about PP because they don't want to understand that PP products are not there to do better at 5 times cheaper ( and again .. according to certain criteria I am sure that PP products costing less than $ 3 do as well as others at $ 15, but I would not restart the discussions) ...

I myself use Tour Bite 1.20mm from time to time for certain occasions, and in certain rackets. I recognize that it is a great product, but I would not buy this string there if I were to play all year round exclusively with that. because I know that in less than 6 to 7 hours Tour Bite (or even Hyper G) will be dead, and that for less than $ 70 I could have something that will be very close (tested!) with Dyreex Cube Max ! ..



like I said .. if you really like hyper-G, take hyper-G, play less time, use your string less time .. and it will last as much.

I like to eat in very "grand" restaurants, but at more than $ 120 the menu in a starred restaurant, I cannot afford it ... I am happy with less, of course, but at another price.

it would be completely absurd and stupid to me to want to eat as good as in a 2 star restaurant by paying a takeout meal at $ 7! ...

will the $ 7 meal be gross? no!.
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
but if you absolutely want to hear that PP eruption 1.18mm for example can do as well, maybe better than hyper-G for more than 10h for less than $ 3 .. I can tell you ...

Yes! it will be better to see better than hyper-G ...

finally, joke over.
it's like a car, you can't want a roadster that can drive like a 4X4 and consume like a city car and it only costs you $ 12,000 ...

I think that very often people criticize PP because they think they can buy a product that costs 4 to 5 times cheaper than another, while wanting it to be as good, to see better. it's impossible. simply.

or else people are convinced or try to convince themselves and inevitably disappointed, and write their big disappointment about PP because they don't want to understand that PP products are not there to do better at 5 times cheaper ( and again .. according to certain criteria I am sure that PP products costing less than $ 3 do as well as others at $ 15, but I would not restart the discussions) ...

I myself use Tour Bite 1.20mm from time to time for certain occasions, and in certain rackets. I recognize that it is a great product, but I would not buy this string there if I were to play all year round exclusively with that. because I know that in less than 6 to 7 hours Tour Bite (or even Hyper G) will be dead, and that for less than $ 70 I could have something that will be very close (tested!) with Dyreex Cube Max ! ..



like I said .. if you really like hyper-G, take hyper-G, play less time, use your string less time .. and it will last as much.

I like to eat in very "grand" restaurants, but at more than $ 120 the menu in a starred restaurant, I cannot afford it ... I am happy with less, of course, but at another price.

it would be completely absurd and stupid to me to want to eat as good as in a 2 star restaurant by paying a takeout meal at $ 7! ...

will the $ 7 meal be gross? no!.
Hyper-G 16 1.30 has much better playability duration than 1.20. As spin, control, etc.....

I'm actually trying Cube Max. Good string but Hyper-G is much better.

I don't want PP strings to be better than Hyper-G... Of course not......
But I hope I could keep a correct stringbed for 8/10h with 16g...
If it's not the case, I would not critic PP. Because I know the price...
Will see what I could get.
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
many people find Ferrari much better than Mazda or Nissan ... but not everyone can buy Ferrari or Porsche ...

ideally I would also find babolat Vs hybrid with alu power better than anything, but with a lifespan around 4h is not within my means! I would have a salary of $ 20,000 a month that would be different, but alas. there is always a difference between what we would like and what we have !. I would have liked to measure 1.80m with gray eyes, but I only measure 1.69m with brown eyes ... this is my despair !.
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
for a few weeks I have been playing with isospeed pro 1.20mm /
I love this multi, it is close to natural gut 1.25mm

currently, natural gut in full 1.25mm lasts me around 6h, for 32 $. it's too expensive. it doesn't last long enough. the rest is perfect.

isospeed in 1.20mm is really close to natural gut, a little less comfortable, a little less controlled, a little less powerful, but the idea is there. it lasts about 5 hours, but at $ 15 it's an option that remains difficult for me.

there, I'm going to test toalson 63, 1.20mm, an S-gut, which costs $ 42 for 200m. So, about $ 2.5 for 12m, I hope it will give me sensations close to isospeed, for 2 hours. and if it comes close to that price, it will be a good option!

the second PP solution ... dura ace (a string intended for squash, but which has a structure approaching kingut), 1.20mm and cost less than $ 19 for 110m.

of course, at around 2.20 $ the set it will appear normal that dura ace (or toalson 63) is very very very far from my so adored babolat Vs touch 1.25, and the alternative isospeed pro 1.20mm ..

but if these two solutions manage to play 75% of isospeed's performance for 2 hours, it will be perfect for me.
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
many people find Ferrari much better than Mazda or Nissan ... but not everyone can buy Ferrari or Porsche ...

ideally I would also find babolat Vs hybrid with alu power better than anything, but with a lifespan around 4h is not within my means! I would have a salary of $ 20,000 a month that would be different, but alas. there is always a difference between what we would like and what we have !. I would have liked to measure 1.80m with gray eyes, but I only measure 1.69m with brown eyes ... this is my despair !.
1m69 is nice for a girl. ;)
I prefer Hyper-G than VS/poly.
I will try the PP strings I ordered and if it's really crap, I will buy one Hyper-G reel again. And my wife will hate me.
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
1m69 is nice for a girl. ;)

yes ... 4h is nice for eruption 1.28mm ... ;)


I even think that with eruption 1.28 (as you use hyper-G 1.30), it will last beyond 7 to 8h without difficulties ..

I find that in structure and composition, eruption behaves almost like Plus Power in terms of tension, stability and comfort. (maybe a little more to the benefit of eruption!) in this case, eruption could easily last 7 to 8 hours, see beyond 10 hours since Plus Power happens to last 10 to 11 hours.
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
yes ... 4h is nice for eruption 1.28mm ... ;)


I even think that with eruption 1.28 (as you use hyper-G 1.30), it will last beyond 7 to 8h without difficulties ..

I find that in structure and composition, eruption behaves almost like Plus Power in terms of tension, stability and comfort. (maybe a little more to the benefit of eruption!) in this case, eruption could easily last 7 to 8 hours, see beyond 10 hours since Plus Power happens to last 10 to 11 hours.
Eruption 1.30 ;)
And Black Eruption seems to be a little bit stiffer than Eruption (green).
Will try it soon!
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
yes, it's always a matter of compromise.
I love the spiraltek babolat .. but at the price or it is sold, I find that it very similar at 95% to PP aramid spin. which is almost exactly the same thing, the flashy colors less, and a little less vivid surely. but also at half price, therefore, lasting twice as much for the same price !. the question is: would i play twice as well with spiraltek? if the answer is no, it implies that it will be useless to spend twice as much for the same thing !.

on the other hand, PP does not make s-gut in pink .. which babolat does. therefore, I am obliged to buy babolat !.
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
me, I dream that PP gives us a round poly, slippery, of 1.05 and 1.10mm, of a beautiful royal blue like the whisper of dyreex or the poly tour pro of yonex to go on my pro tour, a yellow one to go with my radical tour, and a green like the polyfibre green touch, always in 1.02 or 1.10mm to go with my lite tour! ..

and a double wrapped s-gut, or ribbons which is between 1.22 and 1.18mm in black ...
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
me, I dream that PP gives us a round poly, slippery, of 1.05 and 1.10mm, of a beautiful royal blue like the whisper of dyreex or the poly tour pro of yonex to go on my pro tour, a yellow one to go with my radical tour, and a green like the polyfibre green touch, always in 1.02 or 1.10mm to go with my lite tour! ..

and a double wrapped s-gut, or ribbons which is between 1.22 and 1.18mm in black ...
How can you play with different frames?? :unsure:
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
How can you play with different frames?? :unsure:
in fact, they are not really different rackets.

I use the lite tour 690 (almost the same mold as the pro tour 690) but lighter 295g strung, when I have to deal with opponents better than me.

I use the pro tour 690 when I have to deal with weaker opponents than me.

I use radical 690 zebra / cany cane or bumblebee with a power or control configuration, when I have opponents of the same strength as me, with a game more or less powerful than me.

Finally, I have two lite tour 630 when I need to train and I need to be at my maximum concentration.

the frames from practically the same PT59 molds are more or less close to flex, with PT690> bumblebee 690> candy cane & zebra 690> lite tour 690

in terms of power, the lite towers having 6HH, I use them when I am lacking in power, and an HH can help me have the little more power than I lack.

it forces me to have a lot of snowshoes, my brother tells me I'm crazy and there are really too many! (2 Pro Tour 3 lite tour 690, 4 zebra / candy cane, 2 bumblebee, 1 bumblebee ltd (closer to a radical ti) .. and 2 lite Tour 630 ...

14 frames .. and I'm not counting my donnen xenecore which are great frames (allwood 102 & pro one 97) but lack of enormous power for allwood (RA50) and really too demanding for pro one (330g strung, and more flexible and less powerful than the lite tour 630 which resembles them however!)

it requires a management very studied during tournaments, to know the opponents that I have to meet. and bring a small bag with 4 rackets, or know nothing in advance and have to bring 12 rackets. (2 of each)


and there, I find that I calmed down .. at 20 years, I had up to 16 rackets (8 prince graphite pro 90 and 8 spectrum 90, strung at 2 different tensions). 4 graphite pro at 27kg, 4 at 29kg, and same thing for spectrum

stating that it was 14/18, with s-gut prince 1.25mm which never lasted more than 45mn!
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
in fact, they are not really different rackets.

I use the lite tour 690 (almost the same mold as the pro tour 690) but lighter 295g strung, when I have to deal with opponents better than me.

I use the pro tour 690 when I have to deal with weaker opponents than me.

I use radical 690 zebra / cany cane or bumblebee with a power or control configuration, when I have opponents of the same strength as me, with a game more or less powerful than me.

Finally, I have two lite tour 630 when I need to train and I need to be at my maximum concentration.

the frames from practically the same PT59 molds are more or less close to flex, with PT690> bumblebee 690> candy cane & zebra 690> lite tour 690

in terms of power, the lite towers having 6HH, I use them when I am lacking in power, and an HH can help me have the little more power than I lack.

it forces me to have a lot of snowshoes, my brother tells me I'm crazy and there are really too many! (2 Pro Tour 3 lite tour 690, 4 zebra / candy cane, 2 bumblebee, 1 bumblebee ltd (closer to a radical ti) .. and 2 lite Tour 630 ...

14 frames .. and I'm not counting my donnen xenecore which are great frames (allwood 102 & pro one 97) but lack of enormous power for allwood (RA50) and really too demanding for pro one (330g strung, and more flexible and less powerful than the lite tour 630 which resembles them however!)

it requires a management very studied during tournaments, to know the opponents that I have to meet. and bring a small bag with 4 rackets, or know nothing in advance and have to bring 12 rackets. (2 of each)


and there, I find that I calmed down .. at 20 years, I had up to 16 rackets (8 prince graphite pro 90 and 8 spectrum 90, strung at 2 different tensions). 4 graphite pro at 27kg, 4 at 29kg, and same thing for spectrum

stating that it was 14/18, with s-gut prince 1.25mm which never lasted more than 45mn!
:eek:o_O:-D(y)
 

1HBHfanatic

Legend
:laughing:(y)
Hopefully PP are producing green and black strings... I would not buy another color!!! :D
-btw, European web sites closer to china/Germany/Taiwan (where ever they are really made), will have more options
-I've come across a few websites that had even more options of pros pro strings than the USA site,
-a couple times i contemplated ordering and waiting for the delivery, but never went through with it
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
ready for tomorow
a club tournament match, with a woman better ranked than me and who plays very heavy shots flat...
bumblebee and pro tour stay at home tonight, and I strung lite tour 690 and vamp tour 690 (they are the same with a different PJ) with a very powerful hybrid. (prince lithning 1.25mm and hyper_G 1.05mm)



sometimes, I am told that a girl should not play with rackets of 335g with the string, I answer them that Sabatini (my idol) played well with yamaha of 385g. Graff played well with max 200s that weighed just over 275g!
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
-btw, European web sites closer to china/Germany/Taiwan (where ever they are really made), will have more options
-I've come across a few websites that had even more options of pros pro strings than the USA site,
-a couple times i contemplated ordering and waiting for the delivery, but never went through with it
a link?
 

esm

Hall of Fame
ready for tomorow
a club tournament match, with a woman better ranked than me and who plays very heavy shots flat...
bumblebee and pro tour stay at home tonight, and I strung lite tour 690 and vamp tour 690 (they are the same with a different PJ) with a very powerful hybrid. (prince lithning 1.25mm and hyper_G 1.05mm)



sometimes, I am told that a girl should not play with rackets of 335g with the string, I answer them that Sabatini (my idol) played well with yamaha of 385g. Graff played well with max 200s that weighed just over 275g!
Fantastic collection & good luck tomorrow!
 

2ndServe

Hall of Fame
Do you guys think in a blind test you or most can tell the difference between pros pro and mid tier stuff. I've played with blackcode, msv hex, cyclone, hyperg etc and I honestly can't say pros pro is worse or holds tension worse. I can definitely tell alu power has a different feel (too much pop) but the middle range stuff is all kind of similar
 

1HBHfanatic

Legend
Do you guys think in a blind test you or most can tell the difference between pros pro and mid tier stuff. I've played with blackcode, msv hex, cyclone, hyperg etc and I honestly can't say pros pro is worse or holds tension worse. I can definitely tell alu power has a different feel (too much pop) but the middle range stuff is all kind of similar
-im not sure, maybe, mayne not
-all i know is that I've turned people away from luxilon to pp
-they like the feel and the price, and the durability is not crazy less for them, so it works
-ill never say pp is better than luxilon, but the feel is good enough for my game "club level"
-i do like isospeed.baseline and topsin.cyber.flash, "feel wise", but pros pro has more colors/options at half the price that i can experiment with and not break the bank doing it
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
-im not sure, maybe, mayne not
-all i know is that I've turned people away from luxilon to pp
-they like the feel and the price, and the durability is not crazy less for them, so it works
-ill never say pp is better than luxilon, but the feel is good enough for my game "club level"
-i do like isospeed.baseline and topsin.cyber.flash, "feel wise", but pros pro has more colors/options at half the price that i can experiment with and not break the bank doing it

I think the difficulty comes from people who have tried luxilon once, on the recommendations of some, based on the significant quality and the specific aspect of alu power, which it is true, brings a plus ...
but that does not mean that the rest which is not luxilon is bad.

I think the confusion is at this level. as if you were eating a product .. we would say, a good Kobe beef steak! ... it is probably the best meat in some respects ... but at more than $ 250 per kilo, it's difficult to be able to eat it all the time.

there are probably other beef, which will be better on some points and better than others compared to Kobe. will that mean that others will be bad? no.

people must be able to compare what is comparable. a very good player may find that a super pro-stock frame is great to play, but finding 3 or 4 identical at a good price is almost impossible. will that mean that any other frame will be null? no.

I think people (some people) persist in saying that there is luxilon. And the others. if that were the case, there would be no other brand of string, and 100% of the professionals would play with luxilon !. we are far from it.

if you were a pro player, and you know that with luxilon you can win everything. why would you sign with another brand of string, being sure that this will limit your performance? simply because others don't limit your performance! ..

of course ur, if you only want alu power and nothing else, we can present you with a product that is totally superior to alu power, in all areas, you would always find alu power superior .. and that's normal !. ... if we love chicken, and we present you with the best meat in the world, but which is not chicken, you would find that everything else is no better than your chicken ... because you will be looking everywhere in all other products the taste of chicken! ..

I think this is the problem with fans of alu power .. they do not even try to understand what they have in their rackets, but they compare it with luxilon! .. it can be sweeter, they will find it will be sticky, it may be more powerful, they will find it will be too powerful, it may be more control, they will find that it is not powerful enough. it can be more rigid, they will find it too rigid ...

but in this case, we can also say that ... alu power is really awfull and ridiculous against a Chinese synthetic gut at 1.5 $ .. because simply alu power will never play exactly like a s-gut! ..
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
Pro's Pro is the manufacturer...

not 100% sure, some of their strings are made in germany, but others come from japan. I think they also buy certain things from factories.

when you look at the short clay, and the alpha TS 09 I think (two-color black / yellow string), it is difficult to imagine that two factories could have done exactly the same things at the same time, and sold them at the same prices. i'm pretty sure this is a product made in china or thailand.
 

zipplock

Hall of Fame
So far I have close to 12 hours on my Black Eruption/Red Devil hybrid and it still plays well. No noticeable notching, strings snaps back into place and still gives good access to spin though it lost a lot of that sweet pocketing and feel after 6 hours but it is still very playable. Currently still waiting on my Blackout and Concept reels from BigT, almost 2 weeks now and still no tracking update....:unsure:
Where did you get black eruption?
 

1HBHfanatic

Legend
@lucieisland @liftordie
-i also think there is "a lot" of rebranding going on!! IME
-specially now a days!!
-but that's where your own testing/experimenting with the different comes into play
-i wish pros pro would be a little more, "consistent" with their stuff,
-people would still buy their stuff, but would be less confused about the switched they sometimes make
 

liftordie

Hall of Fame
not 100% sure, some of their strings are made in germany, but others come from japan. I think they also buy certain things from factories.

when you look at the short clay, and the alpha TS 09 I think (two-color black / yellow string), it is difficult to imagine that two factories could have done exactly the same things at the same time, and sold them at the same prices. i'm pretty sure this is a product made in china or thailand.
Yeah but that site is the real official site. ;)
It's like buying directly at the factory.
 

lucieisland

Semi-Pro
Yeah but that site is the real official site. ;)
It's like buying directly at the factory.
actually no..
if you buy directly from Nike New York, a polo shirt, which will have been made directly in Pakistan. Nike is not the factory! ..
I think (I'm almost sure!) that Pro's pro negotiates its manufacturing in factories which also manufacture ropes for other brands ...

PP is a German boutique .. but I think they sell strings that are made elsewhere in the world. moreover, they specify well on their site german monofil and monofil .. I think it is that there are several origins to their strings.

to go further, let's imagine, tomorrow you are going into a factory (brand of string), you are going to buy quite a few machines, you are not going to invest in 8 or 12 extruder tips, round, from 5 to 6 different diameters, pentagonal, from two to three gauges, hexa, also from 3 to 4 gauges ... it quickly becomes complicated ...

For my part, if I were to open a factory or a brand tomorrow, I would do everything to stand out from the others.

a mono round of 1.10mm turquoise perhaps, and the same in 1.21 or 1.19mm.
a mono square angular fushia for example, in 1.16mm ..
a flexible khaki or clay-colored mono spin.

things that will not be found anywhere else ..

today, there are at least fifteen orange, yellow, penta black strings.

when I look at SIB for example, they have strings that are not found anywhere else, dark mauve, midnight blue, very rare colors, which cannot be combined with anything else ...

look for example at the prince diablo in two ends, a yellow and green and the other red and blue I think? .. nobody in the world does such a string ...
 
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