Pure Aero 2 pc Tie off and Hole Sharing Differences from different stringers

Hello everyone. I am pretty new to tennis and am not stringing my own racquets yet (but hope to in the future). After having a handful of racquets restrung, I have noticed that different professional stringers are stringing my same racquets differently, with respect to tie off locations and hole sharing.

The examples I have here are two Pure Aeros that were strung by two different pro stringers. Both were strung as two piece. Both have full beds of one type of string. I notice the shared holes, string routing tie off locations are different.

The stringing pattern instructions I see online (source: klipperusa) for the Pure Aero indicate they want you to start at 7H(head) and tie off a main at 8T(throat), and tie off crosses at 5H - 6T. It doesn't look like either of my racquets observe that pattern, and also they differ from one another:

The first racquet w/ the silver colored ALU rough string in it starts at 7H and is tied off at 8T on one side and 6T,8T on the other side.
The second racquet w/ the natural colored string starts at 7H and is tied off at 6T on one side and 6T,8T on the other side

What made me take notice of differences in stringing wasn't the different tie off location but rather the differences in the hole sharing/routing when looking at how the string is configured through the grommets viewing from the outside of the hoop. On the racquet w/ the natural colored string, I notice that string is looped such that more holes are skipped which results in big, messy-appearing loops of string compared to the racquet w/ the ALU rough string. This also results in the string sticking slightly out from the grommet in this area of the hoop which makes me wonder if this is a valid way to string this racquet.

Is anything wrong w/ the string routing/hole sharing pictured for the natural colored string that results in more skipped holes and bigger loops of string? Was this a shortcut or incorrect string routing or just a matter of stringer preference that will have no effect on string performance? Since I am not stringing for myself yet I want to make sure I am educated on these variations so I know whether I should or shouldn't trust certain stringers, and I am also curious for when I start stringing.

I looked at a bunch of pictures of used Pure Aeros on everyone's favorite auction site to observe how these tend to be strung and saw that most were routed and tied off like my racquet w/ the ALU string. I did see one out of many examples that was routed and tied off like my natural string racquet. I saw other examples that had tie offs on crosses, which neither of my racquets have.

Thanks for any insight you have on this!


Hall of Fame
it is not incorrect!, not pretty, but still not incorrect!,,
looks like the babo.p.a.lite "whitegrommets", racquet was strung using the "yonex loop", thats why it has a longer run on the outside,,,
the reason for the yonex loop is to bring the tie off string closer to the tie off hole the stringer chose,,
the reason why its "not incorrect", its because all the strings are/seem within the allowed grommet/grooves for that racquet
the reason why its not pretty: too many skips, i count 3 going to 4,, too many

on a side note, i just restrung a similar racquet that someone strung incorrectly; the strings where outside/ the string groves, and it caused string break when it scraped the ground; that was a bad job, stringer should have notised and corrected at time of stringing and/or restrung the racquet..


Hall of Fame
Your racquet with the natural colored string:

The mains were tied off on the 6th main. The bottom cross was tied off on the 7th main. This is technically not correct, but I doubt its going to hurt anything. You pointed out a side effect of stringing the racquet this way - there are some longer runs of string that protrude a bit from the grommets. Generally the longer the run of string to a tie off, the more that opens the door for tension loss. Aesthetically, it doesn't look as clean as the other racquet. The string does protrude a bit, but its down by the throat, so it's unlikely to get damaged. (How often do you scrape the throat of your racquet digging out a low ball)?

Your racquet with the ALU:

Appears the mains are tied off on the 7th main, and the bottom cross is tied off on the 6th main. This is consistent with the manufacturers stringing instructions for the whole PA family of racquets.

Edit: I would add that with a lot of 16x19 frames that came before the PA, the mains tied off on the 6th main. So that might explain the mistake as outlined up top - maybe that stringer either doesn't know, or he just made a simple mistake. Grand scheme, it shouldn't make much of any difference. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Wow, such quick and informative replies. Thank you both. I am not worried about damaging the strings down that low, I just started to wonder whether the cosmetically less pretty job w/ the long runs protruding from the grommets was a cause for concern. The stringer who did that less pretty job strings for ATP so I hoped he probably wasn't doing anything functionally wrong, but it looked weird to me.
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Hall of Fame
Actually after a second look, I think @1HBHfanatic is right - whoever strung that one with the natural string did a Yonex loop on the mains. Not how I would do it, and not what the mfg calls for, but it shouldn't hurt anything.


Talk Tennis Guru
i See a couple of things I don’t like but not sure they are wrong. For the white grommet racket it does look like a Yonex Loop was used which blocks grommet 7T with 2 strings. From picture I can’t see where the bottom cross ties off but I hope it’s ok.

For the racket with ALU there is a cross over between 7&8T. Not a playability problem but it just does not look good to me. I would have tied off mains at 8T like and made sure there wasn’t a crossover if I was stringing 2 piece.

My preference for this racket would be to string that racket with 1 piece ATW if possible, because I would get better tension maintenance and a zero chance of having crossover anywhere around the racket. (EDIT: LOL Had I string one of your racketS you would have had three different methods to show. If ATW were not an option I would tie off mains at 8T.)
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Hey guys, after having a particularly bad "Master Racquet Technician" stringing experience on one of my Pure Aeros this past week (he put the starting knot for the cross on the wrong side despite the cross tie off location on this racquet being labeled... which resulted in all the cross strings running outside the grommets) I decided it was time to buy a stringing machine. I got an X-6FC for just over $500 shopping around online. My first stringing job turned out great. The only mishap I had that required cutting out the first mains I strung was not pulling the Parnell knots correctly - I had to watch a Youtube video to realize how to cinch the first hitch before the 2nd so all slack was removed.

It is incredibly satisfying to do this job correctly! I had no issues using the manufacturer recommended tie off locations which makes me wonder why I have seen some odd choices in tie off locations on other examples of this racquet. I am looking forward to being able to try all different kinds of string now without having to send racquets out. I do not have a local pro stringer so I was shipping racquets out to string which added to the cost.

Here's my work



Hall of Fame
@Kick Serve Steve
good job!!, looks good!!;
yes very satisfying to do things yourself!! welcome to stringing
couple stringing tips:
-buy yourself a starting clamp, very usefull
-keep your machine/tools clean!!, with rubbing alcohol and such, lots of good info on this site about this
-when stringing, focus on proper technique and not speed, speed comes on its own over time..
-keep a stringing log, length of string used and/or other info you think necessary
I have a starting clamp. I wasn't sure what I needed it for with this fixed clamp machine - what do I use it for? I made a sharpie mark on the string to make sure it wasn't slipping when I pulled the first main. Thanks for the tips!! The great info I got on this board made me interested in stringing for myself.


Hall of Fame
@Kick Serve Steve
starting clamp can be used for a few things
here is a few
-used to pull knots, less chance of over pulling/damaging with a starting clamp vs a needle nose pliers
-flatten poly string tips
-hold starting string "outside the frame", when not deciding to use a starting knot (on first cross), "higher level stringing reasons".
-help with atw and/or box pattern stringing
Thanks for the tips, I'm glad to hear I can get some use out of it even if I am not ready for advanced stringing. I was pulling knots by wrapping the string around an allen key and pulling w/ that, but I was worried that gave me such a strong handle that I was at risk of pulling too hard.


Hall of Fame
Really great job for the first time. Your Parnell knots look great. And that “busy” spot on the throat in the last photo looks really clean (which isn’t a no brained to get right). I’ve seen experienced stringers mess that up.

I did notice a couple areas where you might consider some alternatives, or make some improvements. I hope I don’t seem overly critical or “nit-picky” with this feedback (that is not my intention). When I started stringing, I was lucky to have a couple experienced stringers to critique my work and help me improve. So, I feel some responsibility to pay it forward. Anyway, without further delay:

- Although the starting knot you used is serviceable, IMO there are some better alternatives. Check out the “bulky knot”, “i-knot”, or the “vs starting knot.” Alternatively, you can use your starting clamp to start the crosses. Then you don’t need to use a starting knot (could tie off with a Parnell there too). Your choice - either way is acceptable.

- As I look at one of your photos, it appears that some of the middle and lower crosses aren’t quite straight. Next time, as you tension each cross, try as best you can to keep the string straight. You’ll need to use your off hand to do this, to push the string up towards the hoop as you tension it. Otherwise the string will want to bow towards the throat (assuming you’re doing crosses top down). Some people refer to crosses that are bowed in this fashion as “smiling.” Anyway, you want to prevent this deflection as much as possible - the straighter the cross remains while there is still tension on the string, the more accurate your resulting tension. Straightening the crosses after you’re done stringing, though a best practice for aesthetics, will not mitigate the tension loss on the crosses.

Again, really great job on your first job. Welcome to the forum.
Thanks. Those are good tips. I did my best to try to keep the crosses straight ish as I tensioned them, realizing that friction from wavy strings would be lost tension. There was room for improvement there.

Regarding using a starting clamp and Parnell or other non-starting knot to start crosses - what is the advantage of this? It seems like you are inviting tension loss on the first cross by going back and tying off the first cross after it's pulled and held with a clamp, whereas pulling against a starting knot takes all the slack out of the first cross.

I was just proud I didn't have any slippage or bite marks on strings, wind up with loose mains from my tie offs, or mis-weave this job. Anything else is a bonus. I ended up hating how the strings I used play in this frame (Gamma TNT2 strings, came free w/ the machine - they hit really harsh in this frame for a syn gut, which was surprising because they are a soft string to work with. I am going back to NXT control in the pure aero lite) I also made a hybrid in a Wilson Clash that is eating itself quickly - Volkl Cyclone 17's w / Babolat addiction 17 crosses (I had these strings kicking around). I like how the Cyclone plays but the Addiction is such a soft gummy string it is not working as a cross and is sawed halfway through with 2.5 hours of play on it.
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