Pure Storm Stringing

[idono1301]

Hello everyone.

I am waiting on a delivery for my first stringing machine: a Gamma Progression 200. However, I was looking over the stringing pattern for my racket, a Babolat Pure Storm Tour. The tie-off for crosses is on the third cross. Unfortunately, I do not have a starting clamp.

I am thinking of using one of the flying clamps as a "starting clamp" by using a dummy piece of string and clamping on the outside, much like I would if I had a real starting clamp.

Does anyone see a problem with this? As mentioned above, this is my first stringing machine and experience with stringing, so please be kind

Thanks for your time!

 

[idono1301]

Sorry for the double post, I don't see an edit button.

Another suggestion I came across was to start the third and fourth crosses together, like how mains would be started with flying clamps. Is this an okay method also? I'll admit that the method in the OP is one I'd prefer if it would work.

Finally, any other tips are more than welcome. I've read through the sticky's and watched countless youtube videos, so hopefully this goes well!

 

[bluegrass_stringer]

I believe Babolat instructs in the USRSA stringer's digest, if you don't have a starting clamp, it is OK to string the crosses bottom to top.

 

[idono1301]

Hi,

Thanks for your reply! I've also heard that also.

My main reason for wanting to try one of the two methods I mentioned was because I would like to avoid a starting knot.

 

[Irvin]

I assume you're using hybrid strings or you don't want to string bottom up either. You could use one flying clamp as a starting clamp just use a scrap string in the other half of the clamp. No advantage to going down to the third and fourth crosses stick with the top two for starting.

 

[idono1301]

Hi Irvin,

Thank you for your reply. Yes I will be stringing a hybrid. From my brief reading over threads here, some people suggest that bottom up is bad for the frame. What is your opinion, and would a 2-point mounting system make the stress potentially worse?

I will try the flying clamp/scrap string and post back about it.

Thanks again

 

[diredesire]

Potentially yes, in reality, it's probably not going to make enough of a difference to perceive over the lifetime of your frame.

You can string bottom to top, or top down with a flying/floating clamp as a starting clamp. In fact, the Kimony starting clamp is remarkably similar to a single jaw floating clamp. Not a big deal, but like Irvin said, use a scrap string in the other jaw to maintain proper adjustment/pressure.

I'd also recommend just going ahead and learning the starting knot. You never know when you'll need it, and it's really not that bad. Learn it sooner rather than later, who knows when you'll be without a usable floating/starting clamp? It's knowledge that can only benefit you over time.

 

[Irvin]

If I had my Codie I would avoid bottom. Especially if the tension is high. But on a Babolat frame it is allowed also.

 

[ten11]

I am thinking of using one of the flying clamps as a "starting clamp" by using a dummy piece of string and clamping on the outside, much like I would if I had a real starting clamp.

I have done EXACTLY that lots of times on pure storm tour when I had the Klipmate with no starting clamp. It should be fine.

Starting clamp is the best investment I have made in tennis. You should seriously consider. You can get one around $30. (pro's pro.)

 

[eelhc]

This is my method (I'm sure there are several variations):

1. Weave the second and first cross (in that order).
2. Pull enough string through on first cross to reach the tensioner and clamp it together with a floating clamp and a string scrap ("starting clamp") against the bumper guard (outside the frame).
3. Pull tension on the second cross (desired tension on the 2nd cross but not on the 1st due to friction on the grommets) and clamp with the other flying clamp.
4. complete stringing the crosses and tie off on the throat. Now you have a free clamp.
5. pull tension on the first cross (now the 1st cross is at the desired tension), clamp, release tension and remove the "starting clamp"
6. tie off and remove the other clamp

This is the method I used prior to purchasing a starting clamp. IMO Starting clamps are a more essential tool for stringing than the AWL (which I never use for stringing... even for gut.. just for replacing grommets). I have 2 starting clamps and I use both for just about every stringing job.

 

[zapvor]

Potentially yes, in reality, it's probably not going to make enough of a difference to perceive over the lifetime of your frame.

You can string bottom to top, or top down with a flying/floating clamp as a starting clamp. In fact, the Kimony starting clamp is remarkably similar to a single jaw floating clamp. Not a big deal, but like Irvin said, use a scrap string in the other jaw to maintain proper adjustment/pressure.

I'd also recommend just going ahead and learning the starting knot. You never know when you'll need it, and it's really not that bad. Learn it sooner rather than later, who knows when you'll be without a usable floating/starting clamp? It's knowledge that can only benefit you over time.

agreed here

 

[idono1301]

Hello again everyone,

I just finished stringing it, everything went fairly well. Using the flying clamp to start the crosses worked beautifully. Weaving crosses was a bit slow, as I was using Lux Alu power.

As for the starting clamp, I do intend on buying one in the future, if I continue stringing.

I do have two questions that I would like to post here in lieu of opening a new thread.
- Does anyone have advice for knotting poly? It seems to be pretty difficult. Also, which know would you recommend? I used a double half hitch, but they ended up a bit loose.

- I received a few sets of poly/syngut/multi. What is a good hybrid to try? Should poly be put in the mains or crosses? I've seen that people recommend poly in the crosses due to most being slippery. However, isn't the snap back of poly wanted in mains?

Thanks again for everyone's advice, it helped a lot.

 

[Irvin]

For knots I would suggest a pro or Parnell knot.

Putting the poly in the mains or crosses depends on what you looking for. Moly mains will generally last longer and poly crosses will help tame the power of the string in the mains.

 

[eelhc]

Hello again everyone,

I just finished stringing it, everything went fairly well. Using the flying clamp to start the crosses worked beautifully. Weaving crosses was a bit slow, as I was using Lux Alu power.

As for the starting clamp, I do intend on buying one in the future, if I continue stringing.

I do have two questions that I would like to post here in lieu of opening a new thread.
- Does anyone have advice for knotting poly? It seems to be pretty difficult. Also, which know would you recommend? I used a double half hitch, but they ended up a bit loose.

- I received a few sets of poly/syngut/multi. What is a good hybrid to try? Should poly be put in the mains or crosses? I've seen that people recommend poly in the crosses due to most being slippery. However, isn't the snap back of poly wanted in mains?

Thanks again for everyone's advice, it helped a lot.

From the sound of it you might not have played poly before... Be careful. Also if you previously had your racquet strung on a lockout be aware that your droppweight will most likely have produced a tighter stringbed.

Smooth poly crosses allow the mains to slide and snap back but it not for string breakers (they'll saw through the mains).

 

[idono1301]

For knots I would suggest a pro or Parnell knot.

Putting the poly in the mains or crosses depends on what you looking for. Moly mains will generally last longer and poly crosses will help tame the power of the string in the mains.

Hello again,

Thank you, I will try the Parnell next time. Poly seems to be a pain to cinch up. Now that I have my own machine, I'm looking for more playability.

From the sound of it you might not have played poly before... Be careful. Also if you previously had your racquet strung on a lockout be aware that your droppweight will most likely have produced a tighter stringbed.

Smooth poly crosses allow the mains to slide and snap back but it not for string breakers (they'll saw through the mains).

Hello,

Thanks for your concern. I have been using Alu or Alu rough for the past four years or so. I did drop the tension by 2lbs to hopefully account for the dropweight. In the past, I've had my racket strung a bit tighter than most so that when the strings do loose tension, I have a bit more time with decent playability.

As for your suggestion on strings, I guess I'll stick with a full bed of poly. It just doesn't make sense for now on how a syngut could outperform poly in the mains, assuming same poly crosses.

 

[Jster]

Flying clamps with 50-50 method?