Q: adding lead on FXP Prestige MP

Discussion in 'Racquets' started by esm, Mar 18, 2009.

  1. esm

    esm Semi-Pro

    Feb 12, 2007
    need some help from the customising gurus.

    i have been playing with a TW Donnay Pro One OS (4 3/8 grip) w/ Bab Attraction Power @ 60lb for the last few weeks and really enjoy the even balance feel - the racquet feels pretty good overall, but can be powerful at times :-?. the total weight is 346g (icl. 1 x toruna grip & 1 x dampner)

    i'm missing playing with thw FXP Prestige MP. It also has the Bab Attraction Power 60lb and i also love playing with it. with 1 x tourna grip & 1 x dampner, the total weight is 341g with the "standard" headlight config.

    now i'd like to add some lead to the FXP to bring it to a more even balance setup.

    where should i add the lead? at 3 & 9 or 2 & 10 or at 12 o'clock locations? what would be differences?

    i'm thinking of adding about 6 grams to bring it close to the TW Donnay Pro One OS spec- is it possible? even though the current weight difference is 5 grams.

    if i do add lead, should i add on either side of the string bed on both sides of the racquet? so if i do add 6 grams all up, it'd be 1.5 grams per side.

    if it works, will i be able to relocate the lead under the CAP during the next re-stringing?

    any help would be greatlyappreciated.

    thanks in advance.

    ps - the lead i have is the Unique brand lead
  2. inferno303

    inferno303 New User

    Aug 31, 2006
    12 o clock; i've got the same setup as you except my multi is about 55lbs. the 12 oclock will give a more even balance/higher sw feel. every racket will feel fundamentally different but if you're particular about making the FXPPMP 346g get a bigger dampener like a worm or something.
    hope this helps
    btw is that the H-shaped lead the goes between grommets/strings
  3. origmarm

    origmarm Hall of Fame

    Apr 25, 2007
    From what I've discovered by experimentation the placement of the lead affects feel quite a bit, even with the same overall balance. Essentially it will change the sweetspot location/size slightly and a such it will feel a bit different.

    Each location will change the balance obviously and raise the overall weight. Every placement will do this but each one will also change some of the other characteristics

    Rules of thumb on placement:
    - Increase swingweight: 12
    - Increase torsional stability (less twisting): 3&9
    - Raise sweetspot: 10&2
    - Raise overall weight and maintain balance: 6 or neck
    - Handle: Counteract other placements

    So you can combine say a bit at 6 and some at 3&9 to raise weight without affecting balance too much and add some torsional stability. Or you can go halfway say 10&2 and get a bit of 3&9 and a bit of 12.

    At the end of the day it's going to be about what you like. Given the small amount of overall weight difference you are after (5g) I would suggest you start at 12 as you are trying to redress about 7pts headlight (from memory) to even balance with limited added weight. At 12 you will need to add the smallest amount of lead to get the biggest difference in balance so it's a good starting point in this instance.

    If you change placement from there you will need to add different amounts depending on where you pick if you are trying to roughly "match" to another frame. Use the worksheet here to help get the amounts right:

    The way I do it is to add on both sides either side of the stringbed like this:
    Given that you are only doing about 6g this should be perfect. If you start at 12 you will only need 2 * 3g strips also. Or if they are very long (how wide is your tape?) then you can use 2 layers of 1.5g strips.

    I've only ever had to add a lot of weight and in that case the layers got too much and messy so I got wider tape and did it like this:
    I just punched holes in it and put it there when I restrung. You shouldn't need to do this though.

    Eventually if I settle on a setup I'll put it under the bumper if the lead is at 12, with CAPS you should be able to do this at different locations without a problem. Put the lead on the frame and sort of bend it round so it sits flush to the frame before you put the CAPS back on. You can essentially "shape it" to the frame. I would tend to stick with it on the outside though for a few stringjobs at least though so you can tinker easier initially.

    Bottom line, you are likely going to go through a couple of iterations until you get it how you like it. Sometimes also I have found that even getting it spot on i.e. exactly how it should be on paper was still not right i.e it just felt different on another racquet.

    Good luck


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