Questions about adding lead to 98S to make like RF97/yonex tour HG

djkahn86

Rookie
Currently swinging a RF 97 and Yonex Tour HG... I just got in some lead and i want to add it to my 98S.

I love the plowthru of the above 2 stix and I want to try and help the 98S with some added weight.

Any suggestions that would get it closer to the above.

leather grip?
silicone in handle?
lead position?


any help would be appreciated
 

RanchDressing

Hall of Fame
Currently swinging a RF 97 and Yonex Tour HG... I just got in some lead and i want to add it to my 98S.

I love the plowthru of the above 2 stix and I want to try and help the 98S with some added weight.

Any suggestions that would get it closer to the above.

leather grip?
silicone in handle?
lead position?


any help would be appreciated

It will be hard to make exactly the same, as the balance is off. But start by putting a leather grip on, and at least one overgrip (two if you can manage). I haven't pulled open the trap door on a 98s so I don't know what it looks like in there. I don't recommend silicone unless you are very experienced in racquet modification as it is a "hardcore" modification that will not be reversible, and probably ruin re-sellability. But if you're still not as head light as you'd like, try buying tungsten weights. If you google, you can find golf tungsten weights that are in little squares that are 2g each. Easily can put two of those on the trap door on the buttcap, which isn't a permanent modification, but very effective.

As for hoop weighting, the rf97 has a lot of weight on the sides. So get some 1/4 tape. My 1/4 tape (with backing removed) is 4.25 inches per gram. Some manufacturers are different. Find the mid point of your one gram strips and align this with the 3/9 position on your frame (halfway/widest area of frame). For this case I don't know what your swingweight is, but based off the average specs you can add up to 8 grams at 3/9 and still be close to the SW of a RF97.

If I were you I'd cut 8 4" strips, mark the 2" mark on all of them. Stack two on each other and attach them around the 21" (or 3/9 location) per each side of the string bed on both left and right sides of the frame.

It won't feel identical, but it should feel more like the rf97... The tour G is a different head shape, so isn't exactly the same in the weight placement, but adding weight at 3/9 is what you want to do.
 

djkahn86

Rookie
As for hoop weighting, the rf97 has a lot of weight on the sides. So get some 1/4 tape. My 1/4 tape (with backing removed) is 4.25 inches per gram. Some manufacturers are different. Find the mid point of your one gram strips and align this with the 3/9 position on your frame (halfway/widest area of frame). For this case I don't know what your swingweight is, but based off the average specs you can add up to 8 grams at 3/9 and still be close to the SW of a RF97.

If I were you I'd cut 8 4" strips, mark the 2" mark on all of them. Stack two on each other and attach them around the 21" (or 3/9 location) per each side of the string bed on both left and right sides of the frame.

It won't feel identical, but it should feel more like the rf97... The tour G is a different head shape, so isn't exactly the same in the weight placement, but adding weight at 3/9 is what you want to do.

if I also added some at 12/noon... what would do for me??
 

SpinToWin

Talk Tennis Guru
if I also added some at 12/noon... what would do for me??
I'll make it quite accurate for you since it is christmas (assuming your racquets are all on spec).

Add 5g to the widest part of the hoop of your Blade to raise the twistweight to that of the RF97. Next, add 1g of lead at 12 to raise the swingweight to the range you want. Finally add 32g centered at 2 inches from the handle in order to get the balance you want. Assuming that all your racquets are on spec, this should get your Blade pretty much right between the other two racquets.



Merry Christmas.
 

pfrischmann

Professional
Spin,
Great Answer!

DJkahn86,
After this, you just gotta play with it. My best results come when I "blueprint" a stick like this and then start playing, forget about the specs and make field adjustments.. (too much plow through,, reduce weight at 12 or divide in half and start moving to 11 and 1 then 10 and 2 etc)

The spin sticks are just different, weighting them up to my usual specs didn't work for me. Mostly because the ball leaves the string bed at a much steeper angle on these sticks. I found I needed them to be whippier to keep the same level of control I could get from a tighter patterned racquet.

It sure is fun though...
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
Currently swinging a RF 97 and Yonex Tour HG... I just got in some lead and i want to add it to my 98S.

I love the plowthru of the above 2 stix and I want to try and help the 98S with some added weight.

Any suggestions that would get it closer to the above.

leather grip?
silicone in handle?
lead position?


any help would be appreciated
It is relatively easy to add weight to a match to get it to match the weight of a heavier racket. It is also easy to raise the TW, SW, and balance if you're doing just one independantly of the others. It gets a little more complicated when want to match all four. Sometimes it is impossible. Then there are characteristics of rackets that are more difficult to match up such as composition, head size, head and racket length dimensions. Therefore if you're not starting with similar you can get some things the same but chances are two dissimilar rackets will never feel the same.

But you're not looking for a perfect match as I understand it you're looking to match up the plow through. So the first thing you need to do is find out what you're looking for. If you look at the SW of an RF97A in the TW specs it says the SW is 335. I've measured a few and one was 364 and the other 35x (forget exactly) so it may help you to measure what you have. The technique you use may not be accurate but if you use the same technique for all rackets the process will be extremely accurate. For instance if your scale is 10 g off and you match the lighter one to the heavier one you like they are both what your looking for 10 g off whether is is +/- does not matter.

So all you need is a process to match your rackets and here it is

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=514171

EDIT: If you're looking for a simpler process let me know.

EDIT: Never ever add 5 g of weight to one racket because TW's specs say the average is 5 g heavier than another. It is not unusual for the same type of Wilson rackets to be +/- 10 g. If your 98S is -10 g and your RF97A is +10 g your still 20 g off. If you don't know exactly what your looking for IMO you may as well stick a gob of bubble gum on the racket.
 
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mhkeuns

Hall of Fame
I'll make it quite accurate for you since it is christmas (assuming your racquets are all on spec).

Add 5g to the widest part of the hoop of your Blade to raise the twistweight to that of the RF97. Next, add 1g of lead at 12 to raise the swingweight to the range you want. Finally add 32g centered at 2 inches from the handle in order to get the balance you want. Assuming that all your racquets are on spec, this should get your Blade pretty much right between the other two racquets.



Merry Christmas.
I want to do the same for my Tec TF315 to match the specs of the Pure Strike Tour. Just curious as to why 2" above the handle to counter-balance. Do I need to do that, too, for my 315, or can I put some weight inside the trap door in the buttcap?
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
I want to do the same for my Tec TF315 to match the specs of the Pure Strike Tour. Just curious as to why 2" above the handle to counter-balance. Do I need to do that, too, for my 315, or can I put some weight inside the trap door in the buttcap?
If you place weight on the extreme ends of a racket (polarized) you will have the highest MMOI (Mass Moment of Inertia) with the lowest weight. How the weight is distributed along a racket determines both the total weight and the swing weight. You can increase the weight with only extremely small increases in SW or increase the SW with relatively increases in weight. Where you place the weight makes all the difference.
 

SpinToWin

Talk Tennis Guru
I want to do the same for my Tec TF315 to match the specs of the Pure Strike Tour. Just curious as to why 2" above the handle to counter-balance. Do I need to do that, too, for my 315, or can I put some weight inside the trap door in the buttcap?
I made it 2 inches from the buttcap to get the right balance, swingweight and static mass. If I had added the lead in the buttcap, the racquet would have become too HL. There is nothing wrong with lead in the buttcap in general though.
 

mhkeuns

Hall of Fame
I made it 2 inches from the buttcap to get the right balance, swingweight and static mass. If I had added the lead in the buttcap, the racquet would have become too HL. There is nothing wrong with lead in the buttcap in general though.
Thanks. I will try to have fun modifying the TF315. I guess a few grams at 12 to start to achieve higher swing weight. Then, add at both 3 & 9 o'clock for torsional stability. Add the weight at the buttcap or around the grip area to counter-balance the weight added on top.

Hopefully, I can turn a relatively weak, powerless frame into a monster of a stick!:twisted:
 

mhkeuns

Hall of Fame
If you place weight on the extreme ends of a racket (polarized) you will have the highest MMOI (Mass Moment of Inertia) with the lowest weight. How the weight is distributed along a racket determines both the total weight and the swing weight. You can increase the weight with only extremely small increases in SW or increase the SW with relatively increases in weight. Where you place the weight makes all the difference.
Thanks. It is actually starting to make sense...
 
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