Questions for Wise 2086 owners

[kblades]

Hi all, after seeking input from the forum a few years back I ended up purchasing a Neos 1000. Since then, I have really taken an interest in stringing and really enjoy it. I’ve been eyeing the Wise 2086 for awhile now and finally decided to go ahead and pick one up. While I’m waiting on it to arrive, I had a couple questions in mind I wanted to run by those of you that already have one:

1. When cutting strings from a reel, how much extra string do I need to account for in order to have enough left for the last pull to reach the gripper? With my lockout, I can get the gripper really close to the frame, but based on videos I’ve watched on the Wise I can tell I’ll need to account for more unless I want to use my starting clamp bridge.

2. Do you adjust the wise gripper every time you use a different thickness of string? So for example, if you string the mains with a 16ga and then the crosses with a 17ga, do you have to adjust it in between?

 

[kickserve2020]

1) you don't need a lot if you use a starting clamp as a bridge with a piece of waste string

2) no

 

[Steve Huff]

A typical 16 main racket--I usually cut off 19.5' of string. Sometimes 20' with a poly. For crosses, I usually cut off 1' less than the number of crosses, although on rackets up to 100 sq in, I could probably cut off 1 1/2' less than the number of crosses. For an OS frame, I'd normally ad 6" to each the mains and the crosses. And, no, I don't adjust the gripper. Just clean it occasionally with rubbing alcohol and a handkerchief.

 

[am1899]

1. Not much, maybe a few inches extra.

2. No.

 

[struggle]

1) unsure, i don't sweat a few inches.

2) haven't in 7-8 years ( i string about 1/2 natural gut)

edit: probably 1/4. Many are hybrids.

 

[graycrait]

@kdm711 , I have a NEOS 1000 and the most recent Wise 2086. Once figured out with @Wes help where to initially set the gripper I have had no issues with my Wise stringing 17-15g string. If I do the adjustment is relatively minor using ball end wrench provided by Wise for that purpose. Initially I was getting way too much ghosting and gripper marks.

@Wes had good guidance on the Wise. Turn or bury the gripper tension screw all the way clockwise, then turn 13 revolutions counterclockwise as a starting point to find the gripper sweet spot for your particular string. This helps prevent ghosting, gripper serration marks to some degree and allows you to get the lightest positive string pressure. You might consider "wasting" a bit of string in establishing gripper tension reference.

If you are trying to become a "for money" stringer you need to keep a log of how much string you really need for each racket you string or if you are trying to pay for your hobby just stringing your own rackets (which I think is a fool's errand I have frittered a lot of money away on personal string experiments.

Have you put your NEOS on casters? I can't imagine not having casters on my NEOS. This one works for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRYJVDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Irvin]

When I had my Wise I did not need more than 2” extra string to reach the gripper on the Wise. For the last string you really don’t need the diablo. For MP 16x19 rackets I’ll use 33.75’ of a SG or multi string With a 9.25’ short side. After tying the mains off the tail from the long side is enough for the crosses using a starting knot. I have starting clamps for bridging if needed. Keep records to be sure, some strings stretch more or less than others. Search YouTube for “conserving string from reel.”

I never adjusted the gripper on my Wise.

 

[kblades]

Awesome, thanks everyone for the input! Initially, I was not good about keeping logs, but I also didn’t expect that I would end up stringing as many racquets as I have. There’s not many options around my area to get racquets strung, so once I started stringing for friends/family/playing partners, word traveled fast and I’ve done more than I originally anticipated. With that being said, I started realizing the importance of keeping logs, and have got a good process in place now to keep records.

I have not put casters on my Neos yet. I had plans to when I first got it but never got around to it. So thanks for the reminder and link as I’m going to go ahead and do that as well!

 

[Rabbit]

Awesome, thanks everyone for the input! Initially, I was not good about keeping logs, but I also didn’t expect that I would end up stringing as many racquets as I have. There’s not many options around my area to get racquets strung, so once I started stringing for friends/family/playing partners, word traveled fast and I’ve done more than I originally anticipated. With that being said, I started realizing the importance of keeping logs, and have got a good process in place now to keep records.

I have not put casters on my Neos yet. I had plans to when I first got it but never got around to it. So thanks for the reminder and link as I’m going to go ahead and do that as well!

Home Depot has a three-wheeled caster that works really well on the NEOS 1000. If you need something basic, I use a spreadsheet to keep up with player, string, tension, etc. You can always add/subtract columns. Excel has a very user-friendly search feature that is easy to use.
I owned two Wise tension heads (the original and the upgraded version for sale now). They are indispensable if you're going to string more than 3-4 rackets. They really take the wear, tear, and tedium away from the stringer. I highly recommend the Wise.

 

[struggle]

When I had my Wise I did not need more than 2” extra string to reach the gripper on the Wise. For the last string you really don’t need the diablo. For MP 16x19 rackets I’ll use 33.75’ of a SG or multi string With a 9.25’ short side. After tying the mains off the tail from the long side is enough for the crosses using a starting knot. I have starting clamps for bridging if needed. Keep records to be sure, some strings stretch more or less than others. Search YouTube for “conserving string from reel.”

I never adjusted the gripper on my Wise.

did your wise have a Diablo? I’ve heard that once they added the diabolo they removed the adjustment screw.

 

[graycrait]

I never adjusted the gripper on my Wise.

I had to adjust mine if I was going to continue to use pink/blue Multifeel. The "teeth" marks on the string reminded my what a first grader's wooden pencil looked like after they got done chewing it for a week or so. It felt and looked bad and no telling how much mileage life it extracted from the string. Adjusting it was easy. I personally like the gripper on the NEOS lockout tension head better but after adjusting the Wise gripper everything is fine.

 

[Irvin]

@graycrait I not only did not ever adjust the gripper I took the screw out And never had the problem you speak of.

 

[Irvin]

did your wise have a Diablo?

Never had a diablo on my wise. I had a Wise model that came out before the diablo. Herb found there was many users than had problems stringing gut. To alleviate the problem Herb first tried to use the Gamma Adapter which raised the Wise up 2”. Never seen a need for the diablo especially when there were so many issues with the early versions. Sounds to me like Wise still does not have the use of the diablo worked out.

 

[struggle]

OMG!!!!!!!

So....*&^%$. You mentioned that Wise "removed" the adjustment screw when they added the Diablo.

That was FALSE.

Perhaps since you claim to have "taken the screw out" on your own unit, noted above....you are confused?

You are just all over the place, and often at that.

Clarifications are welcome. Maybe it was the X-2 you were thinking of? Star 6?

 

[Rabbit]

The newest Wise has the diabolo built in. It is not an add on. It works perfectly on the newest model. I have to add that I had a diabolo add on with the first Wise I bought. I functioned as intended as well. While I suppose speculation is fact for some, it in fact is just that, speculation.

 

[graycrait]

New series of Wise has diabolo and has gripper adjustment screw, plus mine came with this to adjust the screw:

 

[Rabbit]

@graycrait - I didn't comment about the adjustment screw because I never fooled with mine. It pulled the string and I was happy. Thanks for setting the record straight!

AMEN

 

[kblades]

New series of Wise has diabolo and has gripper adjustment screw, plus mine came with this to adjust the screw:

The one I ordered is the latest model. I ordered it from the manufacturer directly and it’s supposed to come with the adjustment tool you posted.

 

[graycrait]

@kdm711 , As you can see from the posts you may not even need to ever adjust that screw but it is easy to do so if you find it necessary. I can't imagine not adjusting going from 18g Ashaway Kevlar to a 15L multi without adjusting the gripper.

 

[kblades]

New series of Wise has diabolo and has gripper adjustment screw, plus mine came with this to adjust the screw:

I ordered mine directly from the manufacturer

Home Depot has a three-wheeled caster that works really well on the NEOS 1000. If you need something basic, I use a spreadsheet to keep up with player, string, tension, etc. You can always add/subtract columns. Excel has a very user-friendly search feature that is easy to use.
I owned two Wise tension heads (the original and the upgraded version for sale now). They are indispensable if you're going to string more than 3-4 rackets. They really take the wear, tear, and tedium away from the stringer. I highly recommend the Wise.

Do you happen to have a link to the casters you’re referring to? Is it these?

Everbilt 6 in. 200 lb. Capacity Steel Furniture Moving Dolly 49299 - The Home Depot

Maximize convenience and minimize risk of damage or injury when moving heavy or bulky items using Everbilt Steel Tri-Dolly with Load Rating.

www.homedepot.com

 

[Steve Huff]

My 1st gen Wise has an external adjustment screw that I can adjust by hand. I also have a 2nd gen Wise that has an adjustment screw that I have to use a small Allen wrench to adjust, as it's set into the gripper body. As for how much extra string you'd need when using a Wise: Well you shouldn't need any extra. You can always loosen the screw that holds the tension head tight onto the machine and slide the gripper right up next to the frame. You have to loosen it again, move it back, then move it up against the frame again to do the other side, but it works. Just remember to tighten it down before pulling any tension.

 

[Rabbit]

I ordered mine directly from the manufacturer

Do you happen to have a link to the casters you’re referring to? Is it these?

Everbilt 6 in. 200 lb. Capacity Steel Furniture Moving Dolly 49299 - The Home Depot

Maximize convenience and minimize risk of damage or injury when moving heavy or bulky items using Everbilt Steel Tri-Dolly with Load Rating.

www.homedepot.com

That’s them!

 

[kblades]

I decided to give these casters a try, they were quite a bit cheaper than the suggestions above. If they don’t work out, will try those next. Thanks again everyone for the suggestions!

2" Wheel Diameter | Black Nylon Swivel Hooded Samson Twin Wheel Caster with Brake | 1/4-20 x 1" Threaded Stem | Swivel Radius of 2-1/8" | 4 Pack by Outwater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074HDDWN...abc_VDW07WQ1A016GWRB3HZS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Dillon4787]

New series of Wise has diabolo and has gripper adjustment screw, plus mine came with this to adjust the screw:

Dang, just purchased a new model within the last 6 months and this thing sure would have been handy!

 

[kblades]

Dang, just purchased a new model within the last 6 months and this thing sure would have been handy!

You can buy one for < $7

Bondhus 40656 3mm Ball End Tip Screwdriver w/ProGuard Finish, 83mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0073T91II/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QWEVGT9K7STYTX7GYMQ8

 

[Dillon4787]

You can buy one for < $7

Bondhus 40656 3mm Ball End Tip Screwdriver w/ProGuard Finish, 83mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0073T91II/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QWEVGT9K7STYTX7GYMQ8

Good looking out. I guess I do have the Allen key that fits, but it's always a fight to get it in the right spot and stay there. Thanks.

 

[kblades]

I got my Wise installed and strung up my first couple racquets with it. Love it so far and so glad I upgraded! One question I wanted to run by you guys. In the past, I’ve typically added extra tension on my last pulls for knots. In the Wise manual, it suggests using the pre-stretch option for this. However, I don’t see how this accomplishes the same thing. For example, let’s say I’m stringing at 50lbs, I use the pre-stretch 10% option. It’s just going to pull to 55lbs, then drop back down to 50lbs and hold it there until I clamp, correct? If so, I don’t see how this is going to add any additional tension to account for the slight tension loss from the knot?

 

[Wes]

I got my Wise installed and strung up my first couple racquets with it. Love it so far and so glad I upgraded! One question I wanted to run by you guys. In the past, I’ve typically added extra tension on my last pulls for knots. In the Wise manual, it suggests using the pre-stretch option for this. However, I don’t see how this accomplishes the same thing. For example, let’s say I’m stringing at 50lbs, I use the pre-stretch 10% option. It’s just going to pull to 55lbs, then drop back down to 50lbs and hold it there until I clamp, correct? If so, I don’t see how this is going to add any additional tension to account for the slight tension loss from the knot?

The concept here is that you could use the pre-stretch feature, but then you have to press the Pause button right when the tension hits the maximum pull (before returning to the reference tension)
That's a fairly imprecise, and inconvenient, method.

A much better method is to simply utilize the 2 Memory buttons.
Save your reference tension as M1, and save your knot tension as M2.
Example: M1 = 50lbs. M2 = 55lbs.
Anytime you want the additional tension - simply press M2, pull that string, then press M1 to toggle back to reference tension.

 

[struggle]

FWIW, I've never increased tension on last/outer mains for knots nor have i ever used the memory(m1/m2)
buttons on my Wise.

However, @Wes idea is perfectly suitable for such. One just must remember to reset them for each string job.
I suppose having one of them preset (m2?) for knots at a pre-set tension would likely suffice for MOST stringjobs
without needing to fiddle with it much.

 

[kblades]

Thanks everyone for answering my questions, very much appreciate it! I have one more, sorry if it’s a stupid question...Once you put the string through the gripper, are you supposed to push the gripper forward and then push down to start tensioning? Or are you supposed to pull the string to the side in the same manner I used my crank?

When I first went to use it, I didn’t realize I had to do anything. So I was just putting it through the gripper and pushing down, so it would go all the way back without grabbing the string and gave me the E07 error. So then I started messing with the adjustment screw thinking that was it, before realizing I can’t just set the string in there lol

 

[struggle]

I just slightly pull to the side as i push the button with the same hand. Either method will work (the second, as you mentioned, pushing the gripper onto the string so to speak).

 

[Dillon4787]

Thanks everyone for answering my questions, very much appreciate it! I have one more, sorry if it’s a stupid question...Once you put the string through the gripper, are you supposed to push the gripper forward and then push down to start tensioning? Or are you supposed to pull the string to the side in the same manner I used my crank?

When I first went to use it, I didn’t realize I had to do anything. So I was just putting it through the gripper and pushing down, so it would go all the way back without grabbing the string and gave me the E07 error. So then I started messing with the adjustment screw thinking that was it, before realizing I can’t just set the string in there lol

I tend to use one of my fingers (one that's not holding the string) to push forward a bit. I find that it makes it less likely I will end up with a significant bend in the string, but it also doesn't take much of a side pull to trigger the gripper to grab the string, should you decide to do it that way.

 

[kblades]

As many of you mentioned throughout this thread I posted back when I first got my Wise 2086, I’ve had issues with the teeth marks. I’ve tried adjusting the gripper screw, and tried with and without the Diablo and I can’t find a happy medium. It either marks up the string or slips. My last two string jobs, I adjusted when I started, and for some reason when I got halfway through my crosses the string slipped after reaching tension when I went to clamp. So I ended up cutting out the strings and starting over.

 

[Dags]

As many of you mentioned throughout this thread I posted back when I first got my Wise 2086, I’ve had issues with the teeth marks. I’ve tried adjusting the gripper screw, and tried with and without the Diablo and I can’t find a happy medium. It either marks up the string or slips. My last two string jobs, I adjusted when I started, and for some reason when I got halfway through my crosses the string slipped after reaching tension when I went to clamp. So I ended up cutting out the strings and starting over.

Not sure whether it will help, but here are a couple of photos of how my gripper sits:

This one is with the gripper pushed in as far as it can go. The distance it's sticking out at the end without the tape measure is 5mm.

 

[kblades]

Thanks for taking the time to do that, I've been adjusting on the screw so much at this point, I'm not sure how far I am from where I started. I must have a different model than you, as I tried adjusting mine to match yours and even with the adjustment screw all the way in, it doesn't stick out the front that far. Mine barely clears the gripper when in all the way. Does yours not leave any teeth marks?

 

[Dags]

I barely see any teeth marks. There are very light ones on a black poly like RPM Blast, but you'd have to be looking for them.

Prior to adjustment, I originally used a 'business card' - or the junk leaflets I used to get in Amazon packages, as it actually was, which was more of a thick paper. That did pretty well at eliminating the marks, but the paper did wear out and required replacing every now and again.

My Wise must be over 10 years old now, so certainly an older model than you'll have.

 

[dachness]

Thanks for taking the time to do that, I've been adjusting on the screw so much at this point, I'm not sure how far I am from where I started. I must have a different model than you, as I tried adjusting mine to match yours and even with the adjustment screw all the way in, it doesn't stick out the front that far. Mine barely clears the gripper when in all the way. Does yours not leave any teeth marks?

I received my Wise about a month ago. The default gripper setting results with gripper being flush with the racket side of the gripper body.

I haven't adjusted mine and haven't had problems with various Polys from 16g to 18g or Multi 16G. Also, I believe it is normal to see gripper marks, so your expectations may be un-reasonable.

 

[Wes]

2. Do you adjust the wise gripper every time you use a different thickness of string? So for example, if you string the mains with a 16ga and then the crosses with a 17ga, do you have to adjust it in between?

No, not every time.
Once you have the screw adjusted to just the right spot, you will likely not need to adjust it very much (unless you are using a gauge vastly different than normal).

Very infrequently, but every once in a while, I would adjust my screw just one revolution (or maybe even just half of one) - especially to prevent ghosting on soft multifilament strings.

@kdm711 , I have a NEOS 1000 and the most recent Wise 2086. Once figured out with @Wes help where to initially set the gripper I have had no issues with my Wise stringing 17-15g string. If I do the adjustment is relatively minor using ball end wrench provided by Wise for that purpose. Initially I was getting way too much ghosting and gripper marks.

@Wes had good guidance on the Wise. Turn or bury the gripper tension screw all the way clockwise, then turn 13 revolutions counterclockwise as a starting point to find the gripper sweet spot for your particular string. This helps prevent ghosting, gripper serration marks to some degree and allows you to get the lightest positive string pressure. You might consider "wasting" a bit of string in establishing gripper tension reference.

Correct on all accounts.
For those interested, see vids below for more specifics/details.

Once you put the string through the gripper, are you supposed to push the gripper forward and then push down to start tensioning? Or are you supposed to pull the string to the side in the same manner I used my crank?

@kdm711,
Personally, I wouldn't really recommend either of these.
Pushing in on the gripper plates will likely make the string buckle upward (and potentially come partially out of the gripper plates).
Pulling the string to the side can put, an unwanted, bend in the string.

I shot this for you...

Here's the in-depth video I made previously to help someone in the same situation as you (including the test pulls which will help you learn just where the thresholds will be).
Gripper adjustment, string clamp pressure adjustment & cleaning maintenance.

 

[kblades]

@Wes - Wow, can’t thank you enough for taking the time to put this video and information together! I’ll give these suggestions a shot and report back. As I mentioned, I do have a newer series model so the gripper bracket dimensions are a little different

I can say for sure the 13 revolutions does not apply to the model I have. I’ve tried it multiple times and at that setting the gripper does not grab onto the string at all, when I slide the jaws all the way forward at this setting, I can still just lift the string out.

Also, it’s difficult using the method you described to activate the gripper. With the model I have, the jaws have to extend up into the outer bracket in order for them to grab the string. I may try to make a video as you did to show how it’s different.

 

[FFo]

Mine is not working like that, the screw does nothing until I screw it like 30 revolutions out.

it's like this all the time

Large pic

Only if the screw is sticking out it makes any difference.

 

[dachness]

Mine is not working like that, the screw does nothing until I screw it like 30 revolutions out.

it's like this all the time

Large pic

Only if the screw is sticking out it makes any difference.

It is working properly. Your first picture is roughly how Wes reccomended setting up the gripper. The default setting from Wise was the left side of the gripper being flush with the outer body when fully closed.

An alternate method to activate the gripper is to slide the gripper towards the racket and then active the button. This can be done single handedly or with your other hand.

 

[USMC-615]

Just finished reading through this thread, as well as a couple of others...great info folks and appreciate sharing the knowledge/experience with these 2086 units.

Went to the site (not TH) I ordered my Wise 2086 and 2090 tension calibrator just now (ordered on Aug 19) and it looks like the 'in-stock/ship date' has moved again! The 2090 is in stock, just waiting on the 2086 Series 14...sure hope this doesn't turn out to be a 60-90 day thing!

 

[kickserve2020]

Just finished reading through this thread, as well as a couple of others...great info folks and appreciate sharing the knowledge/experience with these 2086 units.

Went to the site I ordered my Wise 2086 and 2090 tension calibrator just now (ordered on Aug 19) and it looks like the 'in-stock/ship date' has moved again! The 2090 is in stock, just waiting on the 2086 Series 14...sure hope this don't turn out to be a 60-90 day thing!

From what I know, Dan at TH gets shipments from overseas in batches. Depending on when those shipments come in, could be immediate, could be a month or so... contact Dan. He's responsive and a straight shooter and will let you know what you can realistically expect in terms of delivery. Also, COVID is still causing supply chain issues globally, so need to take that into consideration too. But I hear you...I voluntarily waited for a new shipment (so it took abut 5 weeks to get mine) and I was very anxious to get it. But the machine is worth the wait.

 

[dachness]

From what I know, Dan at TH gets shipments from overseas in batches. Depending on when those shipments come in, could be immediate, could be a month or so... contact Dan. He's responsive and a straight shooter and will let you know what you can realistically expect in terms of delivery. Also, COVID is still causing supply chain issues globally, so need to take that into consideration too. But I hear you...I voluntarily waited for a new shipment (so it took abut 5 weeks to get mine) and I was very anxious to get it. But the machine is worth the wait.

Well said! I was typing up a similar response. Dan can give you an update and just check in with him as time passes to see if it's still on schedule.

My particular order took quite some time due to the parts shipment being delayed multiple times.

It is worth the wait!

 

[struggle]

Dan is excellent. (Wise owner who has communicated with him in the past, Excellent CS.).

 

[USMC-615]

Went to the Wise site (TH) last night, at top it says 'For All New Orders, Next Shipment Date is Sep 15th'...maybe mine will be a part of those shipments and on a big ol' jet airliner heading east to mid-Ga, next week at some point.

 

[First Serve]

I can also vouch for Dan at TH and now the owner of Wise. I know him personally. He is good people.

 

[Rabbit]

I have dealt with Dan and agree 100%.

 

[USMC-615]

While we’re on the subject, anyone here also purchase the 2090 Tension Calibrator and use it on their 2086? I went on ahead and purchased one, but the ol’ stigma still stands about calibrators…how do you really know it’s on the mark?

And if you use it, how often/how many racquets strung before you break it out and check the tension head?

 

[esgee48]

Easy enough to check if the calibration device works. Water weights 8.3 lbs/gal ± 0.03 lbs based on temperature. I would suggest using 5 lb increments after the initial 5 lbs = container plus water. Eons ago, I used this method to calibrate a digital luggage scale. Toss the water into your garden or lawn when done. As for HOW OFTEN, that is up to you. I use Racquet Tune iOS version to check tension when I pull the finished product off my stringer. Because I am OCD, I expect it to be ± 0.1 # of ref tension unless the string is really stretchy. The odds tho favor dirty clamps or gripper plates if the resultant tension is off.