I think the Wise 2086 should work with any drop weight machine and it looks like they updated the drop weight adapter as well. I contacted Dan from ********** and he recommended to send him pictures of the drop weight system so that he can see if there are any issues with achieving 360° rotation. I am still searching for the most compatible and cost effective 6 point mointing system base for the Wise 2086 and I think the Tourna 150-CS, Alpha Pioneer DC Plus, Gamma Progression 602FC, and Gamma X-6FC all fit under that description. Would love to know which model would be easiest to fit the Wise 2086 with little to no compromises.
Questions for Wise 2086 owners
- Thread starter kblades
- Start date
JackSkellington
Rookie
Deleted
Last edited:
Following up on my experience attaching the Wise 2086 to a Gamma X-6FC which followed up on happyandbob's description for a Gamma X-6, after using the new setup for about a month I decided to add a custom modification for the following reasons:
1. The diabolo when stringing through grommets at the head and throat is close to the racket frame which makes looping the string through the diabolo a little cumbersome.
2. For very large rackets, one loses 360 rotation.
After making a custom mod the two issues are alleviated:
The next picture shows
that the tensioning head is close to linearly aligned with the racket. Also, because the mod raises the tensioner by 1/4" there may be less grommet friction.
The following describes how I implemented the custom mod which should apply to Gamma X-stringer bases for X-2, X-6, X-6FC which have the same dimension and drop weight mounting system. The next picture shows
how a rectangular aluminum base is added to provide larger gap between diabolo and racket frame, make the tensioning head close to linearly aligned, and attach the 2086 drop weight adaptor (sold at Tennis Warehouse shown) to the custom aluminum adapter that is secured to the base/frame of the X-6FC stringer.
The size of the aluminum adapter is approximately 9 1/8 x 3 1/4 inches and 1/4 inches thick. It is 6061-T6 aluminum stock. Although the mod falls under machining, woodworking precision standards are sufficient since M6 screws connect to threaded sliders that fit loosely in the two tracks of the X-6FC base. Staying within 1 mm accuracy should suffice to get a good fit. M6 allen head screws of different lengths, washers, and nuts shows in post #248 are needed to attach adapters to each other and to the stringer's base. The next picture shows
the holes drilled in the rectangular aluminum adapter and 4 sliders that come with the X-6FC. The top two shiny ones with 3 holes are used in my Gamma X-6FC to attach the drop weight assembly to the two tracks of the base. The two bottom sliders are used by Gamma to attach the feet of the stringer to the tracks at the bottom of the base. Since there are 4 feet, there are 4 sliders (2 hole variety) of which only 2 are needed. How to reattach the 2 feet whose sliders are are repurposed? Use square nuts shown in post #248, three per foot. Gamma uses a slider with two holes to attach a foot by using a set screw to position the sliders at a corner and using the second hole to scew in the foot. Use 3 square nuts that are positioned adjacent to each other. Use set screws in the two outer nuts to position the 3-nut group at a corner. Attach a foot by screwing it in the middle nut.
My old X-2 did not have slides with 3 holes. All were of the 2 hole variety. I don't know if X-6 comes with 3 holes or 2. If your stringer has sliders with 2 holes only, drilling the holes where the two holes are located should be fine. I prefer the spacing of the 3 hole version but it's not essential. The red arrows indicate which slider holes go with which holes drilled in the aluminum adapter. The sliders go into the two tracks of the stringer base, two per track. The hole marked by letter 'A' in white on the aluminum adapter is special in that the M6 screw goes through both adapters before attaching to the base of X-6FC. The 5 holes above 'A' are used to attach the custom adapter to the sliders of the X-6FC in its tracks. The holes below and left of 'A' are used to attach the black drop weight adapter to the custom adapter using M6 screws, washers, and nuts. Note that two of the slider holes are not used.
The mod described above requires cutting and drilling aluminum stock. Using power tools is dangerous and can maim or worse. If you are an expert machinist please remember that complacency is the expert's worst enemy. If you are not expert at using machining tools, delegate the matter to folks who are. You can measure the hole locations by using a ruler or caliper. Draw it on a piece of paper and give it to an expert to machine. Material cost for aluminum stock and screws, washers, nuts should be less than $30. Labor cost, if you have an expert friend, a beverage or two. Otherwise, get quotes from local machining shops. Note that your tolerance level does not require CNC machining. They may not do it cause it's too simple. Or do it for a nominal fee.
1. The diabolo when stringing through grommets at the head and throat is close to the racket frame which makes looping the string through the diabolo a little cumbersome.
2. For very large rackets, one loses 360 rotation.
After making a custom mod the two issues are alleviated:
The next picture shows
that the tensioning head is close to linearly aligned with the racket. Also, because the mod raises the tensioner by 1/4" there may be less grommet friction.
The following describes how I implemented the custom mod which should apply to Gamma X-stringer bases for X-2, X-6, X-6FC which have the same dimension and drop weight mounting system. The next picture shows
how a rectangular aluminum base is added to provide larger gap between diabolo and racket frame, make the tensioning head close to linearly aligned, and attach the 2086 drop weight adaptor (sold at Tennis Warehouse shown) to the custom aluminum adapter that is secured to the base/frame of the X-6FC stringer.
The size of the aluminum adapter is approximately 9 1/8 x 3 1/4 inches and 1/4 inches thick. It is 6061-T6 aluminum stock. Although the mod falls under machining, woodworking precision standards are sufficient since M6 screws connect to threaded sliders that fit loosely in the two tracks of the X-6FC base. Staying within 1 mm accuracy should suffice to get a good fit. M6 allen head screws of different lengths, washers, and nuts shows in post #248 are needed to attach adapters to each other and to the stringer's base. The next picture shows
the holes drilled in the rectangular aluminum adapter and 4 sliders that come with the X-6FC. The top two shiny ones with 3 holes are used in my Gamma X-6FC to attach the drop weight assembly to the two tracks of the base. The two bottom sliders are used by Gamma to attach the feet of the stringer to the tracks at the bottom of the base. Since there are 4 feet, there are 4 sliders (2 hole variety) of which only 2 are needed. How to reattach the 2 feet whose sliders are are repurposed? Use square nuts shown in post #248, three per foot. Gamma uses a slider with two holes to attach a foot by using a set screw to position the sliders at a corner and using the second hole to scew in the foot. Use 3 square nuts that are positioned adjacent to each other. Use set screws in the two outer nuts to position the 3-nut group at a corner. Attach a foot by screwing it in the middle nut.
My old X-2 did not have slides with 3 holes. All were of the 2 hole variety. I don't know if X-6 comes with 3 holes or 2. If your stringer has sliders with 2 holes only, drilling the holes where the two holes are located should be fine. I prefer the spacing of the 3 hole version but it's not essential. The red arrows indicate which slider holes go with which holes drilled in the aluminum adapter. The sliders go into the two tracks of the stringer base, two per track. The hole marked by letter 'A' in white on the aluminum adapter is special in that the M6 screw goes through both adapters before attaching to the base of X-6FC. The 5 holes above 'A' are used to attach the custom adapter to the sliders of the X-6FC in its tracks. The holes below and left of 'A' are used to attach the black drop weight adapter to the custom adapter using M6 screws, washers, and nuts. Note that two of the slider holes are not used.
The mod described above requires cutting and drilling aluminum stock. Using power tools is dangerous and can maim or worse. If you are an expert machinist please remember that complacency is the expert's worst enemy. If you are not expert at using machining tools, delegate the matter to folks who are. You can measure the hole locations by using a ruler or caliper. Draw it on a piece of paper and give it to an expert to machine. Material cost for aluminum stock and screws, washers, nuts should be less than $30. Labor cost, if you have an expert friend, a beverage or two. Otherwise, get quotes from local machining shops. Note that your tolerance level does not require CNC machining. They may not do it cause it's too simple. Or do it for a nominal fee.
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USMC-615
Hall of Fame
Nice mounting plate mod. Only thing I would suggest to add, and I see that your stringing tools, etc are on the cart beside the machine, is for folks who still use the original base tray to store their tools, would be to round off the front left adapter plate corner that hangs over the tray area or possibly remove that ‘rectangular’ corner altogether to the front edge of the Wise adapter plate…keep folks from cutting or nicking their hand when reaching into the tray.Following up on my experience attaching the Wise 2086 to a Gamma X-6FC which followed up on happyandbob's description for a Gamma X-6, after using the new setup for about a month I decided to add a custom modification for the following reasons:
1. The diabolo when stringing through grommets at the head and throat is close to the racket frame which makes looping the string through the diabolo a little cumbersome.
2. For very large rackets, one loses 360 rotation.
After making a custom mod the two issues are alleviated:
The next picture shows
that the tensioning head is close to linearly aligned with the racket. Also, because the mod raises the tensioner by 1/4" there may be less grommet friction.
The following describes how I implemented the custom mod which should apply to Gamma X-stringer bases for X-2, X-6, X-6FC which have the same dimension and drop weight mounting system. The next picture shows
how a rectangular aluminum base is added to provide larger gap between diabolo and racket frame, make the tensioning head close to linearly aligned, and secure the 2086 drop weight adaptor (sold at Tennis Warehouse shown) to the custom aluminum adapter that is secure to the base/frame of the X-6FC stringer.
The size of the aluminum adapter is approximately 9 1/8 x 3 1/4 inches and 1/4 inches thick. It is 6061-T6 stock. Although the mod falls under machining, woodworking accuracy standards are sufficient since M6 screws connect to threaded sliders that fit loosely in the base of the X-6FC stringer. Staying within 1 mm accuracy should suffice to get a good fit. M6 allen head screws of different lengths, washers, and nuts shows in post #248 are needed for adapters to each other and the stringer's base. The next picture shows
the holes drilled in the rectangular aluminum adapter and 4 sliders that come with the X-6FC. The top two shiny ones with 3 holes are used in my Gamma X-6FC to attach the drop weight assembly to the base. The two bottom sliders are used by Gamma to attach the feet of the stringer to the base. Since there are 4 feet, there are 4 sliders with 2 holes of which only 2 are needed. How to reattach the 2 feet whose sliders are are repurposing? Use the square nuts shown in post #248, three per foot. Gamma uses a sliders with two holes to attach a feet by using a set screw to position the sliders at a corner and using the second hole to attach a foot. Using 3 square nuts that are position adjacent to each other, use set screws in the two outer nuts to position the 3-nut group at a corner. Attach a foot by screwing it to the middle nut.
My X-stringer did not have slides with 3 holes. All were of the 2 hole variety. I don't know if X-6 comes with the 3 holes or 2. If your stringer has sliders with 2 holes only, just drill the holes where the two holes are and it should be fine. I prefer the spacing that the 3 hole version allows but it's not essential. The red arrows indicate which slider holes go with which holes drilled in the aluminum adapter. They go into the two tracks of the stringer base. The hole marked with white letter 'A' in the aluminum adapter is special in that the M6 screw goes through both adapters before attaching to the base of X-6FC. The 5 holes above 'A' are used to attach the custom adapter to the sliders of the X-6FC's base. The holes below and left of 'A' are used to attach the black drop weight adapter to the custom adapter using M6 screws, washers, and nuts. Note that two of the slider holes are not used.
The mod described above requires cutting and drilling aluminum stock. Using power tools is dangerous and can maim or worse. If you are an expert machinist please remember that complacency is the expert's worst enemy. If you are not an expert in using machining tools, delegate the matter to experts. You can measure the hole locations by using a ruler or caliper. Draw it on a piece of paper and give it to an expert to machine. Material cost for aluminum stock and screws, washers, nuts should be less than $30. Labor cost, if you have an expert friend, a beverage or two. Otherwise, get quotes from local machining shops. Tell your tolerance level which does not require CNC machining. They may not do it cause it's too simple. Or do it for a nominal fee.
Again, nice adapter plate modification…I like it.
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Rabbit
G.O.A.T.
For all you Wise guys, look what I found:
that looks like worth having accessory for the Wise IMO.
that looks like worth having accessory for the Wise IMO.
lyonheart14
New User
I definitely wouldn't hate a deeper gripper after using a Baiardo. That one at least appears to be deeper.
Just remembered this (because it happened again to me today....).
It's somewhat rare, but occasionally i accidentally bump the pre-stretch button,
turning it off (I often use it), whilst threading the string into the gripper and tensioning
with my right hand. The button is far right.....
So........as a practice, i look at it often (the button, it lights up when on).
It's the only flaw I have really come up with.....
I'm running a V12. I mentioned this to Dan, but since I've never heard anyone else
mention it, it's not a squeaky wheel. Just pay attention, it's an easy "mistake"
(is for me, maybe i'm the only one)
It's somewhat rare, but occasionally i accidentally bump the pre-stretch button,
turning it off (I often use it), whilst threading the string into the gripper and tensioning
with my right hand. The button is far right.....
So........as a practice, i look at it often (the button, it lights up when on).
It's the only flaw I have really come up with.....
I'm running a V12. I mentioned this to Dan, but since I've never heard anyone else
mention it, it's not a squeaky wheel. Just pay attention, it's an easy "mistake"
(is for me, maybe i'm the only one)
Trinity110
Semi-Pro
@Casper777 any chance you could post a pic of a direct frontal view of the setup to show alignment? Congrats to youOK update here for Gamma X6-FC users...
The Wise 2086 whith medium height adaptor is PERFCT.
360° is possible without problem and distance to the plate is enough even with a 100 square inch frame!!
I just had to saw one of the screw plate from the Gamma to place it accurately under the adaptor and it fits perfectly with 2 holes and original Gamma screws
Seeing my first raquet and its super fun!!!)
Trinity110
Semi-Pro
@Casper, what @waterhog has shown at #253 is fantastic. No need, but thanks
Trinity110
Semi-Pro
This is great, and thanks for all the detail. When do you start marketing the "adapter adapter"? ;-) There would be a line. (and why can't they just make the adapter to these spec, to remove all issues?)Following up on my experience attaching the Wise 2086 to a Gamma X-6FC which followed up on happyandbob's description for a Gamma X-6, after using the new setup for about a month I decided to add a custom modification for the following reasons:
1. The diabolo when stringing through grommets at the head and throat is close to the racket frame which makes looping the string through the diabolo a little cumbersome.
2. For very large rackets, one loses 360 rotation.
After making a custom mod the two issues are alleviated:
The next picture shows
that the tensioning head is close to linearly aligned with the racket. Also, because the mod raises the tensioner by 1/4" there may be less grommet friction.
The following describes how I implemented the custom mod which should apply to Gamma X-stringer bases for X-2, X-6, X-6FC which have the same dimension and drop weight mounting system. The next picture shows
how a rectangular aluminum base is added to provide larger gap between diabolo and racket frame, make the tensioning head close to linearly aligned, and attach the 2086 drop weight adaptor (sold at Tennis Warehouse shown) to the custom aluminum adapter that is secured to the base/frame of the X-6FC stringer.
The size of the aluminum adapter is approximately 9 1/8 x 3 1/4 inches and 1/4 inches thick. It is 6061-T6 aluminum stock. Although the mod falls under machining, woodworking precision standards are sufficient since M6 screws connect to threaded sliders that fit loosely in the two tracks of the X-6FC base. Staying within 1 mm accuracy should suffice to get a good fit. M6 allen head screws of different lengths, washers, and nuts shows in post #248 are needed to attach adapters to each other and to the stringer's base. The next picture shows
the holes drilled in the rectangular aluminum adapter and 4 sliders that come with the X-6FC. The top two shiny ones with 3 holes are used in my Gamma X-6FC to attach the drop weight assembly to the two tracks of the base. The two bottom sliders are used by Gamma to attach the feet of the stringer to the tracks at the bottom of the base. Since there are 4 feet, there are 4 sliders (2 hole variety) of which only 2 are needed. How to reattach the 2 feet whose sliders are are repurposed? Use square nuts shown in post #248, three per foot. Gamma uses a slider with two holes to attach a foot by using a set screw to position the sliders at a corner and using the second hole to scew in the foot. Use 3 square nuts that are positioned adjacent to each other. Use set screws in the two outer nuts to position the 3-nut group at a corner. Attach a foot by screwing it in the middle nut.
My old X-2 did not have slides with 3 holes. All were of the 2 hole variety. I don't know if X-6 comes with 3 holes or 2. If your stringer has sliders with 2 holes only, drilling the holes where the two holes are located should be fine. I prefer the spacing of the 3 hole version but it's not essential. The red arrows indicate which slider holes go with which holes drilled in the aluminum adapter. The sliders go into the two tracks of the stringer base, two per track. The hole marked by letter 'A' in white on the aluminum adapter is special in that the M6 screw goes through both adapters before attaching to the base of X-6FC. The 5 holes above 'A' are used to attach the custom adapter to the sliders of the X-6FC in its tracks. The holes below and left of 'A' are used to attach the black drop weight adapter to the custom adapter using M6 screws, washers, and nuts. Note that two of the slider holes are not used.
The mod described above requires cutting and drilling aluminum stock. Using power tools is dangerous and can maim or worse. If you are an expert machinist please remember that complacency is the expert's worst enemy. If you are not expert at using machining tools, delegate the matter to folks who are. You can measure the hole locations by using a ruler or caliper. Draw it on a piece of paper and give it to an expert to machine. Material cost for aluminum stock and screws, washers, nuts should be less than $30. Labor cost, if you have an expert friend, a beverage or two. Otherwise, get quotes from local machining shops. Note that your tolerance level does not require CNC machining. They may not do it cause it's too simple. Or do it for a nominal fee.
Best of luck
Rabbit
G.O.A.T.
I do not know. That would be worth looking into though
Rabbit
G.O.A.T.
@graycrait after reading the description, it doesn’t appear to be diamond dusted.
graycrait
Legend
I now see they mention "fish scales" jaw griping pattern.
@graycrait,
That's what I was going to mention to you, but I see you've already spotted that yourself.
Obviously, I could be wrong here, but I interpreted that "fish scales" pattern as the broken-English equivalent of what the rest of us would likely refer to as a "crosshatch" pattern/design.
In other words, the inner surfaces are likely "scored", for better holding power.
graycrait
Legend
I wish one of you guys who has a Wise would by that "AE" Wise replacement jaw and then:I'd call it "fish scales".
1) take it apart and take a picture of the jaws
2) obtain some "rare" out of production pink or blue Multifeel and see if the fish scale jaws leaves much ghosting on the string.
Sigh, too much to ask say you? I would say that too. However, I did buy a new Wise replacement clamp to see what the differences are between later and early production V14 Wise clamps and from what I can see the "cross hatch" pattern on the new Wise jaw appears less aggressive than my "old" Wise V14 jaws. But that is just using my 68 yr old eyeball and a flashlight with no objective measuring the "lands and grooves" or testing with pink or blue Multifeel
Rabbit
G.O.A.T.
@graycrait, buddy I would be I sold mine and bought a damned Mighty Sensor, which BTW, doesn't have diamond dusted gripper halves either.
I don't think anyone here has (or, at least, hasn't spoken up yet), but some of the guys on Badminton Central have.
They had very positive things to say after using it.
I just got my Wise v14 (with gamma adaptor) yesterday, and Gamma Progression ST II is on its way. I'd like to have a setup that keeps the 360 rotation. I'd like to have a setup that allows for 360-degree rotation. Can anyone confirm or answer my questions about the setup that allows for 360-degree rotation with Progression ST II?
1. I understand that if I use the gamma adaptor to get the tension head close to level with the string bed, I will lose 360 degrees of rotation. Someone on the forum mentioned that using a 1/4" washer will raise the turn table enough to allow for a 360-degree rotation. Is this the case with Gamma Progression ST II? If so, could someone please share some pictures or detailed instructions for the modification?
2. I believe there were discussions about the potential tension loss caused by pulling the string in an angled position so that the Wise head sits lower than the string bed - if I don’t use the Gamma adaptor, the Wise head will sit lower than the string bed, right? Has anyone tested to confirm if this actually causes some tension loss? If it does, can the tension be increased by a certain degree to compensate for the tension loss?
Again, I really want to keep the 360 rotation in my setup, so I’m not looking for advice like “Don’t use the 360 rotation” here.
1. I understand that if I use the gamma adaptor to get the tension head close to level with the string bed, I will lose 360 degrees of rotation. Someone on the forum mentioned that using a 1/4" washer will raise the turn table enough to allow for a 360-degree rotation. Is this the case with Gamma Progression ST II? If so, could someone please share some pictures or detailed instructions for the modification?
2. I believe there were discussions about the potential tension loss caused by pulling the string in an angled position so that the Wise head sits lower than the string bed - if I don’t use the Gamma adaptor, the Wise head will sit lower than the string bed, right? Has anyone tested to confirm if this actually causes some tension loss? If it does, can the tension be increased by a certain degree to compensate for the tension loss?
Again, I really want to keep the 360 rotation in my setup, so I’m not looking for advice like “Don’t use the 360 rotation” here.
Got it. Thanks. Wes and Irvin also answered my questions, so thank you, guys!
Funbun
Professional
Is anyone still using a Wise with the X-6FC? Would love to see more pics of setups especially those that preserve 360 rotation.
Are most people fixing the adapter to the inner or outer track? I might end up just going with @happyandbob 's method with some additional washers to keep the metal channel flush with the adapter.
Are most people fixing the adapter to the inner or outer track? I might end up just going with @happyandbob 's method with some additional washers to keep the metal channel flush with the adapter.
Dillon4787
Rookie
This was my exact setup until I sold it about a month ago. Really enjoyed a lot of things about it.
