Reducing grip size and what were your results?

T

TripleSSS

Rookie
Hi all,

I want to reduce grip size from some rackets I recently got (cannot get them in my country), and they are in L3 (4 3/8) grip size. I normally play with a L2 (4 1/4) grip with an overgrip.
I nor anyone in my country have the skills to reduce grip sizes by shaving or other similar methods (probably). New Zealand btw.
I'm basically left with using either:
1. Wilson Feather Thin replacement grip + overgrip
2. 2 or 3 overgrips instead of replacement grip + overgrip

Wilson Feather Thin grips for some reason don't get imported into my country because Wilson doesn't seem to acknowledge NZ as a country but I can work around this by ordering it from overseas, will be more expensive but can foot the cost for a good grip size.

My questions are:
1. are there any other alternative methods that are as easy?
2. would anyone know the thickness/circumference measurement for L2 and L3 grip (without any grips), thickness of stock Wilson replacement grips, thickness of Wilson Feather Thin grip (heard it was around 1.4mm) so I can do the calculation of how close I can make it to my usual L2 + og grip size?
3. What were your results in terms of feel and comfort using a thin replacement grip + og, or just using 2 or 3 overgrips only.
 
2. would anyone know the thickness/circumference measurement for L2 and L3 grip (without any grips), thickness of stock Wilson replacement grips, thickness of Wilson Feather Thin grip (heard it was around 1.4mm) so I can do the calculation of how close I can make it to my usual L2 + og grip size?

It's going to vary by brand and likely even by model.

Check out AM Strining on YouTube. He makes exactly the measuring tool you're looking for. It's a pre-printed piece of very thin mylar.

Tennis grips sizes are among the most vague products ever mass produced but his tool will give you a repeatable answer.

Shaving grips down is not rocket science. Just take your time and take a small amount of material at a time. Patience, as always, pays off.
 
TripleSSS said:
Hi all,

I want to reduce grip size from some rackets I recently got (cannot get them in my country), and they are in L3 (4 3/8) grip size. I normally play with a L2 (4 1/4) grip with an overgrip.
I nor anyone in my country have the skills to reduce grip sizes by shaving or other similar methods (probably). New Zealand btw.
I'm basically left with using either:
1. Wilson Feather Thin replacement grip + overgrip
2. 2 or 3 overgrips instead of replacement grip + overgrip

Wilson Feather Thin grips for some reason don't get imported into my country because Wilson doesn't seem to acknowledge NZ as a country but I can work around this by ordering it from overseas, will be more expensive but can foot the cost for a good grip size.

My questions are:
1. are there any other alternative methods that are as easy?
2. would anyone know the thickness/circumference measurement for L2 and L3 grip (without any grips), thickness of stock Wilson replacement grips, thickness of Wilson Feather Thin grip (heard it was around 1.4mm) so I can do the calculation of how close I can make it to my usual L2 + og grip size?
3. What were your results in terms of feel and comfort using a thin replacement grip + og, or just using 2 or 3 overgrips only.
Click to expand...
try Prince ResiThin, it is also at 1.40mm (same as FeatherThin), but abit heavier.
using the 1.40mm replacement grip + an OG is probably the easiest & cheapest option. it will get you pretty much one size down.
 
I am using the FeatherThin base grip, I like it more after a few months of use as it will be compressed and you can feel the bevels better. Now I have it on all the frames I am playing with. You can also sand down the foam molded handle, but is not an easy job and requires skills and tools. Also is a permanent solution in case you change your mind. So try first Featherthin and see if works for you.
 
TripleSSS said:
1. are there any other alternative methods that are as easy?
Click to expand...
Not sure about Wilson, but Head's base grip (Hydrosorb Pro) is 1.75mm. Babolat's base grip (Syntec Pro) is 1.9mm.

As an alternative to Wilson Featherthin, look for:
- Babolat Syntec Team https://www.babolat.com/us/syntec-team/670065.html
- Tourna Pro Thin Replacement Grip https://www.tennis-warehouse.com/Tourna_Pro_Thin_Replacement_Grip_Black/descpageUNIQUE-UTPTRG.html
- Prince ResiThin https://www.tennis-warehouse.com/Prince_ResiThin_Replacement_Grip/descpageTWABG-PRTRRG.html (seen recommended on here by other users, no personal experience)
 
Last edited:
tourna thin is 1.25mm
babo syntec team is 1.5mm
there are several leathers that go 1.0mm and below.

I went back and forth between l2 and l3 grips and actually prefer the feel of an l3 with a very thin basegrip above both. Most regular basegrips were designed to be comfortable by themselves and start to twist with an overwrap. I love feeling the bevels & also the detail of the wrap since it doesn't just dig into the mushy base.

But that's for people in between sizes. If l2 is completely filling up your hand I would say... Give up on the rackets.
 
Last edited:
TripleSSS said:
1. are there any other alternative methods that are as easy?
2. would anyone know the thickness/circumference measurement for L2 and L3 grip (without any grips),
Click to expand...
If you don't want to use the simplest method for reducing the grip size, there is no other way to change the grip thickness on the bare grip.
Normally, I would use the thinnest basic grip tape.

If you don't want to do that, you will have to remove 0.35 to 0.5 mm of material from each bevel.
However, this requires a great deal of technical knowledge and precision work.



Wilson grips are not always the same either.
I have been doing this for over 30 years and have measured a wide variety of grips from different models over time – here is an excerpt from my measurements.

If you want to sand/mill the grips correctly, you will also need the smaller butt caps.
These must also be securely fixed in place.
So you need good craftsmanship skills if you want to change the grips yourself – based on your initial question, this is not an easy task.

As mentioned above, if I were you, I would buy the thinnest grip tape and mount it on the frame.
 
I’ve used a large flat hard screw driver and shaved down my TF40, CX200 & VCP-HD that were in Grip size #4. I only shaved where my FH dominant hand makes contact, Worked like a charm (only problem is that the base has to be made from foam)

I bought a racquet once that randomly came with a Kimony thin leather and hated the way it felt tbh. There is a cheap overgrip called MSV cyber wet that is on the thick side, it’s horrible to use as an OG, but it’s super durable and works great as an ultra thin base grip.
 
I tried shaving down a foam grip once on an old $5 racket, as an experiment. IT is VERY difficult not to get significant rounding off the bevel edges.

I imagine a good wood shop with a "table style" sander might be the best choice......
 
Like Guttersnipe, I also got a used frame with a Kimony leather grip installed on it and didn't care for the way it felt. The grip was so thin that it felt as though I was installing an overgrip over the bare pallet. In fact, I've had other frames where I've used 2 overgrips instead of using a traditional grip and overgrip combination and had a better experience than with the Kimony.

In the end, the only solution that has been satisfactory in the long term has been to change out the pallet to the correct size so that I can use the base grip that I'm accustomed to on my other frames in order to acheive a uniform result.
 
Klatu Verata Necktie said:
Like Guttersnipe, I also got a used frame with a Kimony leather grip installed on it and didn't care for the way it felt. The grip was so thin that it felt as though I was installing an overgrip over the bare pallet. In fact, I've had other frames where I've used 2 overgrips instead of using a traditional grip and overgrip combination and had a better experience than with the Kimony.

In the end, the only solution that has been satisfactory in the long term has been to change out the pallet to the correct size so that I can use the base grip that I'm accustomed to on my other frames in order to acheive a uniform result.
Click to expand...
How did using 2 overgrips feel?
 
H22 fan said:
I am using the FeatherThin base grip, I like it more after a few months of use as it will be compressed and you can feel the bevels better. Now I have it on all the frames I am playing with. You can also sand down the foam molded handle, but is not an easy job and requires skills and tools. Also is a permanent solution in case you change your mind. So try first Featherthin and see if works for you.
Click to expand...
How does using a thin replacement grip feel? Is it comfortable or would it be jarring in regards to vibrations? I don't have tennis elbow even with the stiffest rackets with 57lbs tension, but I don't want to feel all the vibration in my hand. I've used a 1.3mm thick leather grip but honestly, it didn't feel much thinner than a normal replacement grip, maybe because it didn't compress? but 1.3mm thick leather grip felt fine in terms of vibration muting.

greyduck said:
Grip thickness measurements can be found in this thread:


I personally have used the TW 1.3mm leather grips to size down from L4 closer to an L3. I still use an overgrip with the leather grip.
Click to expand...
Do you actually feel like it reduces a grip size or half a grip size? I've used the 1.3mm leather grip from TW but didn't feel that much thinner than the stock grip. Maybe I'm misremembering and it was 1.5mm but I assume I also tried 1.3mm as I got a few. I just thought "Yeah, maybe leather feels as thick as stock grips because they don't compress as much"

Ah disregard, I went through my orders and it was the 1.5mm TW leather grips.
 
TripleSSS said:
I've used a 1.3mm thick leather grip but honestly, it didn't feel much thinner than a normal replacement grip, maybe because it didn't compress?
Click to expand...

I know you mentioned it was 1.5mm leather, but even 1.3mm leather feels about the same thickness as Head Hydrosorb Pro to me at 1.75mm to me because of how squishy Hydrosorb Pro is.

Syntec Pro is firmer than Hydrosorb Pro and 1.9mm thick, so I use it to increase grip size without adding much weight. I like larger grip sizes so I put Syntec Pro on my grip 4 Speed MPs.
 
Has anyone used CTR’s grip shaving service? I’m thinking about sending one in but would love to hear feedback. I’m sure it’s fine done by a professional but like to hear from firsthand experience.
 
Well i feel the nuances vibrations/feel only when bouncing the ball lightly at home. During real play i dont notice anything like that, and for that reason i actually prefer more vibrations. (no dampener, no muted rackets) The mutedness is the only thing that bothers me. Never had tennis arm injuries.

Practical advice to you: you have to try everything out for yourself, nothing can replace the 1st hand experience.
 
There’s a product I discovered in a used sporting goods store called Lizard Skins. It’s primarily used for baseball bats and hockey sticks. It comes in 1.1mm and 0.5mm thickness. I use these regularly to decrease grip size. They are pricey compared to a tennis replacement grip.

If you have Head racquets, you can change the pallets out to a smaller size if you have a heat gun and a long flathead screwdriver.
 
If you have no intention of selling, then get shaving / carving away.

I flipped it upside down (but cap on the floor) and shaved down with a Long FH screwdriver . You’d be surprised how easy the base is whittled away, I’ve never caved a surfboard but it felt like that.
 
RIPStick18 said:
There’s a product I discovered in a used sporting goods store called Lizard Skins. It’s primarily used for baseball bats and hockey sticks. It comes in 1.1mm and 0.5mm thickness. I use these regularly to decrease grip size. They are pricey compared to a tennis replacement grip.

If you have Head racquets, you can change the pallets out to a smaller size if you have a heat gun and a long flathead screwdriver.
Click to expand...
This unfortunately is not a Head racket.
I am actually very interested in hearing your take on the Lizard Skin grips. I am able to get 0.5mm and 1.1mm thickness at a local store surprisingly (I don't know how this grip is easier to get than ANY thin replacement grip in a country that doesn't even play Baseball or Softball). What has been your experience using the Lizard Skin grips? How was the feeling in hand and during ball contact, vibrations, feels etc. Also which thickness size do you use?
 
Maybe used for a Cricket bat?
I use the 1.1mm. Always with an OG. It’s definitely really grippy/sticky when dry but I’d imagine slippery when wet. The bevels are more pronounced. Very similar to a leather grip but more shock absorption. It’s also lighter than the stock grip. Good if you’re trying to drop some weight. If not, you’re going to have to add the difference via lead on the handle or tack in the trap door.
 
TripleSSS said:
How did using 2 overgrips feel?
Click to expand...
Honestly, better than the Kimony leather, but not ideal. When I've used leather grips, there is a firmness to the feel, but there is also a rounding off of the bevels to some degree when the leather is stretched around the pallet. Overgrips, on the other hand, are so pliable that the bevels feel sharper than is my preference.

If I had all my racquets with that setup, I could perhaps becomed accustomed to the feel, but as it is, I've got Hydrosorb Pro on most of m frames and that's what feels like home to me.
 
fritzhimself said:
If you don't want to use the simplest method for reducing the grip size, there is no other way to change the grip thickness on the bare grip.
Normally, I would use the thinnest basic grip tape.

If you don't want to do that, you will have to remove 0.35 to 0.5 mm of material from each bevel.
However, this requires a great deal of technical knowledge and precision work.



Wilson grips are not always the same either.
I have been doing this for over 30 years and have measured a wide variety of grips from different models over time – here is an excerpt from my measurements.

If you want to sand/mill the grips correctly, you will also need the smaller butt caps.
These must also be securely fixed in place.
So you need good craftsmanship skills if you want to change the grips yourself – based on your initial question, this is not an easy task.

As mentioned above, if I were you, I would buy the thinnest grip tape and mount it on the frame.
Click to expand...
Glad you posted this as it is frequently on my mind.

We routinely discuss grip size as if it's a typical, repeatable, objective measurement we readily could confirm or disprove, but it is never this when it comes to production rackets. Instead, it's a "claim" made by a manufacturer with no actual reference to a reliable measurement. The drawings that accompany your post establish this fact clearly. So, I ask: Who Cares?

The OP wants his grip to be smaller. He is not, or should not, if he's smart, be trying to achieve an objective grip dimension that even manufacturers don't (obviously) aspire to. Tennis players would be better off treating the grips as baseball players of the past did when it came to their bat's barrels and handles. When it's your bat or racket what you want is smaller, not an objective measurement.

Finally, I am especially moved by the issue of bevel transition. A while back another poster confidently presented his technique, one that used a precision mill. That's great for the flat surfaces. I would have loved to have read about how he measured and cut the radii between each flat but about this he said nothing. My point to you is that when you say, "However, this requires a great deal of technical knowledge and precision work." I say, maybe, but definitely more precision than the company that actually manufactured his racket put into it. I would repeat my advice: Just take your time and take a small amount of material at a time. Patience, as always, pays off.
 
fritzhimself said:
Those who can read properly have an advantage! :unsure:
Click to expand...
My take on his comment was that manufacturers don't have uniform pallet sizes because they measure their grip size with their OEM grips installed, so pallets from brands like Wilson, Head, and Babolat will differ to some degree. His saying that the actual dimension didn't matter wasn't necessarily an improper reading of the question, rather it may have been an attempt to redirect the original inquiry in an attempt to find a solution from a point of view not contemplated by the poster.
 
Klatu Verata Necktie said:
My take on his comment was that manufacturers don't have uniform pallet sizes because they measure their grip size with their OEM grips installed, so pallets from brands like Wilson, Head, and Babolat will differ to some degree. His saying that the actual dimension didn't matter wasn't necessarily an improper reading of the question, rather it may have been an attempt to redirect the original inquiry in an attempt to find a solution from a point of view not contemplated by the poster.
Click to expand...

And, this is what the OP asked:

My questions are:
1. are there any other alternative methods that are as easy?
2. would anyone know the thickness/circumference measurement for L2 and L3 grip (without any grips), thickness of stock Wilson replacement grips, thickness of Wilson Feather Thin grip (heard it was around 1.4mm) so I can do the calculation of how close I can make it to my usual L2 + og grip size?
3. What were your results in terms of feel and comfort using a thin replacement grip + og, or just using 2 or 3 overgrips only.

I don't think anyone can be sure about the thickness / circumference of a random L2 or L3 OTR grip, Wilson or otherwise, without measuring. Is the OP's racket new or well-used? A YouTube pro actually wore down the size of his long-term racket's grip so much he had become used to a grip size that was far smaller than his usual grip. So, he had to get used to the right size of his new racket's grip, which was quite difficult for him.

I don't mean to discourage anyone from taking a path that pursues precision, which is why I directed the OP to the grip measuring tape AM Stringing makes and I'm sure sells. I have every confidence that someone as skilled and experienced as Fritzhimself can achieve the precision he writes about. I'm just not sure the OP needs that to achieve his stated goals.

As an aside, a golf club presents some interesting advantages over tennis and a few of its own variables:

First, is the known and predictable diameter of the shaft butt. A .610 shaft will measure .610 all day long, and the taper length is known, whether it's steel, graphite or titanium. Grip thickness can vary and is the wildcard because it's not easy to measure. Still, high level players know what combination they need to create their preferred grip shape: .610 butt, .580 grip, two layers masking under the right hand, one layer under the left with he yield being a grip that feels right to the player.

I hope the OP ends up with a grip that feels right to him.

​

 
Basically, new frames with new grip tapes are usually perceived as thicker than rackets that have been used for a long time.

That's one side of the coin—unless you play with leather, the synthetic grip tape is compressed and changes the grip size by less than 1 mm in circumference.
The fact that the grips do not always correspond exactly to the previous model is perceived as annoying by some sensitive players.

If you don't change the basic grip tape several times a year, you will definitely notice this with a new racket.
I have also found that if someone can play tennis properly, this matters less than if a wannabe pro wants to adapt their new equipment to their old one.
If the technique is lacking, it's a lost cause anyway.
Then it was the racket, the strings, the weather, or something else that was to blame.

But there are exceptions. I also tune for an ATP player (no joke) who is extremely sensitive when it comes to grip size – but he can play tennis really, really well.
It's always a nightmare for me when he gets new rackets and I have to adjust the circumference to suit him.
We have just changed manufacturers, but that went very well, so I haven't noticed any grip problems so far.
I hope it stays that way. :giggle:
 
RIPStick18 said:
Maybe used for a Cricket bat?
I use the 1.1mm. Always with an OG. It’s definitely really grippy/sticky when dry but I’d imagine slippery when wet. The bevels are more pronounced. Very similar to a leather grip but more shock absorption. It’s also lighter than the stock grip. Good if you’re trying to drop some weight. If not, you’re going to have to add the difference via lead on the handle or tack in the trap door.
Click to expand...
I'll probably try this combo, 1.1mm thickness with an overgrip as well then. One thing I noticed with leather grips is that even if they are thinner than synthetic grips, they feel the same or sometimes even thicker, I'm assuming because they don't compress. Does the Lizard Skins grip actually feel like you're going down a grip size or at least half a grip size?
 
So far I've been using a radical pro with just the original replacement grip(first times ever but I'm liking it), normally I use 1 og over the rg.I will decide what to do when the time to refresh arrive.
 
It 100% makes it feel like less than the stock grip. I get what you’re saying about the leather. How it is similar to leather is that the edges are more pronounced/sharper.
 
esm said:
try Prince ResiThin, it is also at 1.40mm (same as FeatherThin), but abit heavier.
using the 1.40mm replacement grip + an OG is probably the easiest & cheapest option. it will get you pretty much one size down.
Click to expand...
ResiThin can't be bought in australia and new zealand. I've been wanting to try that forever too
 
GN-001 said:
ResiThin can't be bought in australia and new zealand. I've been wanting to try that forever too
Click to expand...
Yeah. Australia is a weird one. Nothing/not mic is available here, same for the secondary/used market. Lol
Had ResiThin when I lived in the EU.
I remember I bought some FeatherThin during the pandemic time and it turns out to be for badminton racquets, so comes abit too short for most 27” tennis racquets. lol.
 

esm said:
Yeah. Australia is a weird one. Nothing/not mic is available here, same for the secondary/used market. Lol
Had ResiThin when I lived in the EU.
I remember I bought some FeatherThin during the pandemic time and it turns out to be for badminton racquets, so comes abit too short for most 27” tennis racquets. lol.
Click to expand...
I have FeatherThin on all my frames, all XL (27.5” - 27.7”) length and never been a problem. You might have overlapped it.
 
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H22 fan said:
I have FeatherThin on all my frames, all XL (27.5” - 27.7”) length and never been a problem. You might have overlapped it.
Click to expand...
You are right about the “normal” length FeatherThin, which I have used a few also.
The ones I mentioned above was for badminton, which came in a shorter length, suitable for badminton handles.
 
esm said:
You are right about the “normal” length FeatherThin, which I have used a few also.
The ones I mentioned above was for badminton, which came in a shorter length, suitable for badminton handles.
Click to expand...
Ok, now is clear!
 
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esm said:
Yeah. Australia is a weird one. Nothing/not mic is available here, same for the secondary/used market. Lol
Had ResiThin when I lived in the EU.
I remember I bought some FeatherThin during the pandemic time and it turns out to be for badminton racquets, so comes abit too short for most 27” tennis racquets. lol.
Click to expand...
NZ is even more weird, since NZ doesn't even get Wilson Feather Thin :(
 
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Moldyoak said:
I LOVE THIS POST!
Click to expand...
Thank you – many questions could be answered if people could find things out for themselves.
There are many answers to many questions.
The best thing is when someone asks which racket suits them best.
Since no one has ever seen the questioner play, this is a rhetorical question where you can say whatever you want and lead the questioner even further astray.

No offense, most people want to help, but in reality, it doesn't do any good.
Especially since the questioners usually portray their actual playing ability in a more than positive light.
It's usually due to poor technique, and then they all want tournament rackets recommended and think they'll play better with them.

But if you mention their lack of technique, the fun is over and they immediately get pissed off.
That's why I refrain from recommending rackets.
 
fritzhimself said:
Thank you – many questions could be answered if people could find things out for themselves.
There are many answers to many questions.
The best thing is when someone asks which racket suits them best.
Since no one has ever seen the questioner play, this is a rhetorical question where you can say whatever you want and lead the questioner even further astray.

No offense, most people want to help, but in reality, it doesn't do any good.
Especially since the questioners usually portray their actual playing ability in a more than positive light.
It's usually due to poor technique, and then they all want tournament rackets recommended and think they'll play better with them.

But if you mention their lack of technique, the fun is over and they immediately get pissed off.
That's why I refrain from recommending rackets.
Click to expand...
it’s also simple math on grip size.
A Google search in stock grip sizes of retail frames and replacement grip sizes available.

Several YouTubers put out “ways to reduce grip sizes”. Surely there’s some outliers where manufacturers fail to provide specs of the replacement grip. But there’s a lot of options with tourna, babolat, Wilson.

Hate to say it but buying rackets a grip size larger, you should do your homework on the solve before making the purchase.
 
ChrisJR3264 said:
it’s also simple math on grip size.
A Google search in stock grip sizes of retail frames and replacement grip sizes available.

Several YouTubers put out “ways to reduce grip sizes”. Surely there’s some outliers where manufacturers fail to provide specs of the replacement grip. But there’s a lot of options with tourna, babolat, Wilson.

Hate to say it but buying rackets a grip size larger, you should do your homework on the solve before making the purchase.
Click to expand...
I hate to say it, but what you wrote in response to my quoted text is like:

I drive a car and you say, “My wife likes to go shopping too!”
 
fritzhimself said:
Thank you – many questions could be answered if people could find things out for themselves.
There are many answers to many questions.
The best thing is when someone asks which racket suits them best.
Since no one has ever seen the questioner play, this is a rhetorical question where you can say whatever you want and lead the questioner even further astray.

No offense, most people want to help, but in reality, it doesn't do any good.
Especially since the questioners usually portray their actual playing ability in a more than positive light.
It's usually due to poor technique, and then they all want tournament rackets recommended and think they'll play better with them.

But if you mention their lack of technique, the fun is over and they immediately get pissed off.
That's why I refrain from recommending rackets.
Click to expand...
Can I ask which string and overgrip is the BEST for me. Thank you.










(J/k… counted resist… lol)
 
Tourna Pro Thin has done wonders for me with shrinking grip sizes but it does reduce a lot of static weight and some HL balance and will require tail weighting. Good luck!
 
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