Roll Call: enough with poly, give me SYN GUT

Cobra Tennis

Professional
I've tried every poly under the sun it seems like, even solincos NGDY green string for the past ten years. I keep one of my frames with POSG 17 in it and whence ever I use it, it's just like home. The spin, the feel, the comfort, all there. And.......it's only $2.80 right now a set.
 

gchen

New User
thought about it, but found topspin cyber flash and cyber blue to be about as soft as synthetic, with the advantage of no string movement.
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
I've tried every poly under the sun it seems like, even solincos NGDY green string for the past ten years. I keep one of my frames with POSG 17 in it and whence ever I use it, it's just like home. The spin, the feel, the comfort, all there. And.......it's only $2.80 right now a set.
What I want to know is why it took you ten years to figure this out. I knew right away poly was OK but not for me. Poly is better in a hybrid than full bed also, but still not for me.
 
Between syn gut and the few dozen types of poly I've tried, syn gut gives me more:
- power,
- control,
- durability (poly loses too much tension after 4-5 hours),
- comfort,
- and almost the same amount of spin as poly.

Only distinct advantage of poly is no string movement for the first few hours. My primary setup has always been syn gut.
 

fgs

Hall of Fame
to each his own. in a full bed syngut would last me less time than it would take me to string it. as a cross to poly, the vast majority of synguts played started dropping tension after the first session and became unplayable quite for a while before breaking - which occured before the end of the second hitting session. therefore, i need poly for my game, not only because i like to spend more time hitting balls than stringing sticks, but because there are a series of characteristics that support my gamestyle. i don't have the issues with tension dropping polys as i usually break them before this happens, and yes, i do hybrid them with multi crosses. the only issue i have currently is finding a multi that lasts longer than one session in the crosses.
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
Between syn gut and the few dozen types of poly I've tried, syn gut gives me more:
- power,
- control,
- durability (poly loses too much tension after 4-5 hours),
- comfort,
- and almost the same amount of spin as poly.

Only distinct advantage of poly is no string movement for the first few hours. My primary setup has always been syn gut.
That's a myth all strings move, there goes the distinct advantage.
 

EasternRocks

Hall of Fame
Closest poly I have played to that has attributes of syn gut is Poly Tour Pro but in the 1.20 version. Incredibly soft, dead but slightly crisp feel. Not good tension maintenance but it will give you way more spin than any syn gut can give you because of its good snapback attribute.
 
thought about it, but found topspin cyber flash and cyber blue to be about as soft as synthetic, with the advantage of no string movement.
This, and if you use the syngut-ish feeling polys like Yonex Poly Tour Pro and Weiscannon Scorpion you can have your cake and eat it too.

That said to each his own... my strokes go from very flat to very top-spinny so a syn-like poly suits my game. Others who dont utilize as much spin might do far better with a true syngut.
 

1HBHfanatic

Legend
i dont want to add more fule to your fire (i like syntgut/poly hybrids), but,,,,
i recenttly strung a multy main with a smoth synthetic low friction cross at high tension
it did not suck too bad :)
 
to each his own. in a full bed syngut would last me less time than it would take me to string it. as a cross to poly, the vast majority of synguts played started dropping tension after the first session and became unplayable quite for a while before breaking - which occured before the end of the second hitting session. therefore, i need poly for my game, not only because i like to spend more time hitting balls than stringing sticks, but because there are a series of characteristics that support my gamestyle. i don't have the issues with tension dropping polys as i usually break them before this happens, and yes, i do hybrid them with multi crosses. the only issue i have currently is finding a multi that lasts longer than one session in the crosses.
So much is wrong in this post, I can just all LOL.
 

fgs

Hall of Fame
torpantennis,

how would you know better what is good for me? please enlighten me. i would be very thankful as it would spare me quite some money and time spent stringing.
 

eelhc

Hall of Fame
I recently acquired a couple of used frames with Synthetic Gut. Instead of cutting out I hit with them first.... Felt great, good control, spin, feel, ball pocketing... Made me re-think my low tension poly setup (the ball pocketing was felt really good without feeling mushy). So I went and re-strung one of my go to frames with some Gamma Synthetic Gut. Again, felt and hit great.... for 2 sets... then the strings started moving all over the place and I began to lose control... so not entirely successful but now I'm thinking to experiment with Poly mains and SG or Multi crosses.
 
torpantennis,

how would you know better what is good for me? please enlighten me. i would be very thankful as it would spare me quite some money and time spent stringing.
For starters, ALL synguts lose WAY LESS tension than any poly on market. Just check data from TWU.

Then again, another wrong thing is your inability to try poly CROSS hybrids. Poly with multi or syngut crosses loses playability after the fiorst hour because frayed syngut/multi don't allow snapback after the first hour. That's nothing related to tension.
 

fgs

Hall of Fame
torpantennis,

for starters - if you think that twu data perfectly correlate with what happens on the tennis court, then you might not have taken your time to read how those tests are produced. sometimes you can extrapolate from what happens with a 25cm long piece of string hammered, but a stringbed, even of the same string, will in the end behave different in the real world. this does not mean to say that those measurements are irrelevant, a stiff string will still be a stiff string, be it a 25cm long piece or a woven stringbed, but by just looking at those figures and expecting to know how a string behaves in real life is slightly superficial.

we have seen lots of reports of players telling that a twu-measured stiff string plays a lot softer than the measurement would suggest, and i have come across a few which should have been soft but played quite harsh. so, there a a few other variables that blend in when you talk about how you percieve the collision of the ball with the string - take deflection, dwell time, peak tension, energy return, etc.

it might well be that it is not the tension loss in terms of kg/lbs that makes the stringbed unplayable but the fact that the deflection is not directly proportional with tension loss and you already end up with with a completely different angle the ball will leave the stringbed upon contact. if with the same mains the syngut-crossed stick starts spraying all over the court and the multi-crossed stick still plays "on target", then something must have happened, most probably with the syngut, and it definitely was not good.

i have not written about poly/poly hybrids but i have tried them and am even currently playing some on my test sticks - the lifetime of the mains is quite dramatically reduced. the most recent 1,25 mains lasted less than two hours paired with a 1,20 poly-cross, roughly 2,5hrs with a 1,25 syngut and slightly above 3hrs with my regular multi.

with some multis i manage to hit about the same amount of spin even after they start fraying. this snapback-theory IS part of the poly-package but it is just a tiny part of the complete picture in terms of spin-production. imagine i was hitting lots of spin some 40 years ago with donnay borg pro sticks strung up with 1,25 vs natty, of course at 32kg mains and 30kg crosses. according to the snapback-theory, the ball should have not been spinning, as at that tension, in those small stics and with natty on natty, ie extremely high string-to-string-friction, there would be no snapback at all - still the balls kept kicking up pretty impressive. surely not at levels and speeds obtainable today with "modern" sticks and strings.
 
The whole point is, there's nothing new that poly mains, together with "soft" (multi/syngut/natgut) crosses has the shortest playability duration. Guess what, I agree with you that it loses "control" after that first hour. But try even moving the poly mains with your hand and you'll see that they don't snap back effortlessly after the first hour. Then in comparison, try poly crosses with "soft" mains and you'll first feel that the playability duration is superior. Then, try moving the soft mains with your hand and you'll see that the poly crosses are still slick and allow the mains to snap back in place. BANG, long playability duration and CONSTANT AMOUNT of snapback are synonyms. That's why even fullbed natgut has long playability duration: It has a CONSTANT amount of snapback (very little).

So do yourself a favor and go try soft mains and poly crosses. Or if you prefer the feel of stiff poly mains, then just stick to poly mains, poly cross. No point fighting with the ever-changing playability (and ever-changing snap back) of poly mains, "soft" crosses.
 
OP, if you think poly is too stiff for your game, then I'd consider trying natgut mains, Babolat Origin crosses. That is an all-"soft" setup, with supposedly much less of that strings getting stuck out of place like with syngut (i.e much longer playability duration).
 

fgs

Hall of Fame
i actually did myself those "favours" and am still out to trying one more, namely ashaway monogut zx mains with poly crosses.
but the other results have been:
1,30 multi mains with 1,20 poly crosses: mains broke between 15-30 mins.
1,25 syngut mains with 1,20 poly crosses: mains broke between 30-45 mins.
1,30 natty mains with 1,25 poly crosses: mains broke after 3hrs (which was very surprising for me, but still beyond affordability as i play quite a lot)

my compromise currently is poly mains and multi crosses - the mains last between 3-4 hrs and the multi around 2. i do then recross the stick with a fresh multi. there is not much difference between a recrossed one and a fresh string job, and i assume because the poly still has not had enough time to drop tension too much. my time window is too short for any considerable tension drop in the poly - it's max. 3 days with basically two hitting sessions.
i basically double the durability of the mains by using multi crosses. with poly crosses i would be done in a little bit longer than one session, while with multi crosses i squeeze out two sessions.
 
I wouldn't even try monogut zx mains, poly cross. I did try that: Túrned out ZX is way more resistant to denting than polys so poly crosses dented badly straight off the stringer. My arm couldn't handle that combo, since the sharply dented crosses pefectly inhibited mains from moving and all the shock transmitted directly to the hand. Based on that tryout, poly mains with ZX crosses could be worth trying since ZX seems very resistant to denting (i.e "perfect" cross).
 

fgs

Hall of Fame
thanks for the info - that is also on the schedule. i planned initially to test half of the set as mains with poly and the other half as a cross to poly, so i'll rather stick to the latter and "save" the first. i played the monogut zx as mains with my regular multi and was surprised it lasted some 7 hitting hours until it broke. that would basically put it on the verge to being economically viable, in spite of "eating" through the multis.
 

WINZOWAR

Rookie
After experimenting with poly and poly hybrids, it occurred to me that I was still losing to the same guys. Back to full beds of Leoina 66 and Gosen OGSM. I prefer the feel, playability is the same until it breaks, better comfort and the price is right. The strings move; I don't get all ocd about it. So until they make a soft comfortable poly with syn gut feel that has about a month of consistent playability and is about $50 a reel, I won't be experimenting.
 
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