Infl8edEg0
Professional
It's in extremely good condition, with the base cabinet thingy. And with a lot of string. I just don't know if it's a good deal or not.
ty guys.
ty guys.
Should I buy a $400 Ektelon Model H?
- Thread starter Infl8edEg0
- Start date
First make sure it is an H. I had a model D and then later bought an H. It was a long time ago, but I thought the D was the last cabinet model. They called it the DE or something like that.
If it is an H, and nothing is missing - I would jump on it. If it has been kept inside and in good condition - it will last forever. Not sure what the going price is for a used Model H. But I would rather own the Model H, than some of the cheap new knockoffs. Easy to get parts, and for 500 more you add the wise head and you are stringing on a sweet machine.
If you string fan pattern rackets, you will need a floating clamp...
Good luck
If it is an H, and nothing is missing - I would jump on it. If it has been kept inside and in good condition - it will last forever. Not sure what the going price is for a used Model H. But I would rather own the Model H, than some of the cheap new knockoffs. Easy to get parts, and for 500 more you add the wise head and you are stringing on a sweet machine.
If you string fan pattern rackets, you will need a floating clamp...
Good luck
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
If it is truly an H and in good condition, run, don't walk, to purchase it. Assuming it is in good condition, it will perform better than just about anything you can by new for $400. IMHO, you don't need to add a Wise tension head unless you have an overwhelming desire for an electric and/or constant-pull tension head. Nothing wrong with a Wise at all (in fact, they are excellent), I am just not convinced it is needed.
I bought mine around 84, bought a Model D in 79 and sold it to by the H. The guy that bought my model D with the upgrades still has it and strings occasionally. They last forever with minimal care...
Infl8edEg0
Professional
U guys have convinced me to buy it. It's got that cabinet thing too, which I think is pretty sick.
Wut's a wise head or whatever?
and I'm pretty sure that it's a Model H, cuz that's what the ad said, but I'm going to ask for detailed pics.
ty guys
Wut's a wise head or whatever?
and I'm pretty sure that it's a Model H, cuz that's what the ad said, but I'm going to ask for detailed pics.
ty guys
Infl8edEg0
Professional
Another question: does widebody change it at all?
ty guys
ty guys
Be sure it is an H model, as the earlier models without the updates will be a problem stringing the large racquets, and I heard that the updates are no longer available.There should be a tag on the unit specifying the model.
An earlier model with the updates would still be fine, but you should know what to look for if that is the case.
An earlier model with the updates would still be fine, but you should know what to look for if that is the case.
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Wise Tension Head is a device that replaces the crank. Gives you constant pull. Expensive, at $500 - but I am glad I bought one.
Infl8edEg0
Professional
k guys, I bought it. It's in great condition, apart from a few scratches here and there-1989, haha. Anyway, it hasn't been used in 2 years and the guy who sold it to me-who btw is really chill-said I should call up usrsa and ask what I should do to get it up to speed. I'm just gonna post here.
That guy was sick, he gave me A LOT of free string (all sort of old though), one of those things that tell u mph of ur serve, a reel of lead tape, a bunch of fitness equipment, a whole bunch of tools, accessories. I guess he was going to clean out his garage or something, but it was really neat.
So what can I do to get rid of the rust and such that's built up?
That guy was sick, he gave me A LOT of free string (all sort of old though), one of those things that tell u mph of ur serve, a reel of lead tape, a bunch of fitness equipment, a whole bunch of tools, accessories. I guess he was going to clean out his garage or something, but it was really neat.
So what can I do to get rid of the rust and such that's built up?
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
First, clean the machine completely with denatured alcohol--use a soft cloth, Q-tips and a toothbrush. Then, if you still have some rust left, I suggest using a little bit of naval jelly-but use it sparingly--then clean those areas where you used naval jelly again with alcohol. I do not suggest using abrasives (e.g., steel wool, wire brush) unless absolutely necessary. I think drakulie cleaned up a used one recently so he may have some additional tips.
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
I am not sure but I would think if there is rust that the protective coating is gone too. I finished a black powder rifle one time and after I smoothed out all the part I had to blue the metal surfaces. I would think you should remove all the rust. Maybe even use some steel wool and then blue it with one of those kits. They are not expensive and easy to do.
Irvin
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
That is an interesting idea. If you decide to do this, please let us know how it works out.
Infl8edEg0
Professional
No, it's a slight, slight bit of rust. Actually, I don't even think I need to clean it up, except a bit of dust. There's none around the..base, I guess. There's only a bit where the crank thing is, and I can barely notice it.
Infl8edEg0
Professional
You know what, I'll just post some pics.
Infl8edEg0
Professional
Infl8edEg0
Professional
Ok, now I have 2 questions.
1) How do I calibrate this thing? I have a blue thing that says "Ektelon Calibrator" but I don't know how to use it.
It looks like this
http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/descpage-TENCAL.html
but says "Ektelon" on it
2) How do I read the poundage thing?
ty guys
1) How do I calibrate this thing? I have a blue thing that says "Ektelon Calibrator" but I don't know how to use it.
It looks like this
http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/descpage-TENCAL.html
but says "Ektelon" on it
2) How do I read the poundage thing?
ty guys
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Infl8edEg0
Professional
ty
It's in better condition than I thought it was in yesterday.And it's not rusted, it's just some sticky stuff from what was there before.
Steve Huff
G.O.A.T.
Really nice. That half-length slide bar works great for stringing around-the-world patterns too. Plus, you have plenty of clamps. They're to older clamps, so eventually, you may want the newer ones. They're expensive though, so see if the ones you have work first. The tensioner looks fine. I wouldn't call USRSA, I'd call Tennismachinesinc.com. They're the authorized repairmen for Ektelon machines, and they regularly restore them. I wouldn't send the mounting arms though because if they break, you are up a creek. They don't make them anymore, and they're hard to find. They have "dogs" in them that occasionally need replaced. You can do it yourself if you have any mechanical aptitude at all (I did it on the one I had and it just took a little figuring out how it works). This is their patented mechanism to hold the racket down quickly. Again, nice find. I may even still have a manual somewhere.
Infl8edEg0
Professional
I wish I was a member of the USRSA. If I got the web-only membership, would I have access to the manual?
And another question, if I went from a Klippermate to this, how many pounds higher would I have to string my racket?
You know,if you list your e-mail address, someone thoughtful, may just e-mail you a copy of the manual for the model H.
Infl8edEg0
Professional
Personally, I think you'd be a fool to buy it when you can buy a Laserfibre Quantum with better clamps, mounting, tensioner, and an in tact warranty for not much more. My opinion is that when it comes to stringing machines, if you're gonna spend a couple hundred, you should spend a little more. In other words, go REALLY cheap (like X2/Superstringer), or go semi-sorta an "investment" expensive...or don't go at all.
Imo, constant-pull is the way to go these days especially with polys and their tension losing ways being so popular these days.
email sent hope it helps. Jim
Blade0324
Hall of Fame
congrats on your purchase, I for one would have gone with a new machine, even Eagnas over this. I have strung on a couple of this Ekleton type of machines and they just don't hold the racquet in place very well IMO. I also don't think the callibration holds up very well either. I had to callibrate them both after almost every racquet or it would be off by like 4lb.
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
Glad to see that your were able to get a manual--you will find it useful. Despite the unfortunate experience of others who have posted, I have never had any difficulties with Eketelon-type machines. I have owned DEs, Hs and a Prince Neos and have never had any problems with racquet slippage in the mounts or with calibration in any of those machines. If the machine is not well maintained and kept clean, I could see how such problems would develop but any machine not maintained will give you problems. As for the debate of lock-out versus constant pull, I wouldn't worry about it--the differences between the two methods can be readily compensated for, irrespective of the type of string being used. It sounds like you got a pretty good bargain and I hope you enjoy your H. Good luck.
Infl8edEg0
Professional
Well, the seller told me he hadn't used it in 2 (maybe 3) years, and I checked the calibration today, and it was still spot on.
So how would I go about compensating for it? I normally string my racket at 47/49, so maybe 51/53?
Yes it did help a lot. Thank you very much.
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
Not sure what string you are using but maybe 50/52 would be a little closer but the question is whether you would rather make an error of too tight rather than too loose. If you would rather be too tight (which would be my preference in error) then use your numbers. I am assuming you were previously having your racquets strung on a constant pull machine? It may take you a couple of string jobs to zero in on what you will want. Good luck.
According to the USRSA:
Different string materials and constructions, and different racquet head sizes, will require different amounts of compensation to match the stringbed stiffness produced by a constant-pull machine to that produced by a lockout machine. For racquets with smaller heads and/or with lower elongation strings, use tensions toward the minimum . For racquets with larger heads and/or with higher elongation strings, use tensions toward the maximum .
They have a calculator to approximate the stringbed stiffness between the 2 types once the reference tension is entered, with a minimum and maximum number,you then go somewhere between those numbers depending on variables listed above.
So with that in mind, 10% puts you in the ballpark, then adjust up or down depending on string and racquet size..or if you are a member you can use their (USRSA) online calculator
Congradulations with a great machine!! I'm sure that it will serve you nicely!!
I noticed that the calibration instructions are not in manual, so I sent those to your e-mail address.
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