Some (probably) basic questions from someone new to the strings conversation

Pinceptin

New User
Hi,

First time posting. Thanks in advance for any help. it's really appreciated. I've been playing casually for a couple of years. Started taking the game more seriously, and my coach has suggested it's time for an equipment upgrade - this has led me on a whole journey of discovery reading about tech, which I really enjoy (I had the same journey with golf about 5 years ago). However, I'm struggling with a couple of things.

(the questions come from info on the TW site - university and reviews. I've looked at other sources as well, but basing anything numbers-wise from here)
  • Why are there differences in some strings between gauges and diameters?
    • It seems that typically it's 16=1.30mm, 16L=125mm, 17=1.20mm. But then Luxilon 4G Soft is listed at 16/125, and Kirschbaum Flash is listed at 17/125
    • Where there are differences, if I'm looking for a comparable string between brands/models should I look for the same gauge or the same diameter?

  • Why do the review scores for playability duration seem to be so different to the tension loss scores in the string performance DB?
    • As an example,
      • Solinco Revolution (16/130) scores really well for playability duration in the review with a score of 86. In the performance DB is 46.9% with a starting stiffness of 247.5lb/in (51lb reference tension, medium swing)
      • Technifibre Razor Code (16/130) on the other hand has a much lower review score of 69. But in the performance DB at the same reference tension/swing speed its tension loss is much lower at 32.2%. And the starting tension is almost identical (251.5lb/in)

My reason for all this btw is trying to pick a new string. I've been playing pretty entry-level synthetic gut to now (Spiraltek 16), and my coach suggested I give poly a try seeing as I am getting a new racket. I'm not worried about getting it exactly right first time. just something for a reference point to then move from forwards whichever way I need.

I'm 38, in decent shape (although a little out of form due to reduced exercise through the pandemic). No arm issues, but I play golf as well and the arm/shoulder does get quite a bit of work, so it would be good to avoid anything at the very bottom end of the harshness scale.

Was thinking something like Solinco Revolution, or Technifibre Ice Code perhaps? Not sure on gauge. Open to other suggestions.

The racket I'm probably going with is a Yonex VCore Pro 97 G (310). Current model (in the matte green), btw. It would be nice to have a string colour that works with the racket, but I'm not super concerned if that's not the case :)

thanks again
 
The metric mm is more accurate, gauge is an older system of thickness that has a tolerance. We need more info on your coach. That person knows your game and may have the best insight into what string changes may be best for you. I would suggest not using a full bed of poly. Consider a hybrid with your current synthetic gut. My ex-college players still have their frames strung with a full bed of synthetic gut.

Durability for poly is useless for most players. The string becomes unplayable before it breaks for almost everyone below a 5.0 USTA rating. Plan on restringing poly after every 15 hrs of playing time.
 
The metric mm is more accurate, gauge is an older system of thickness that has a tolerance. We need more info on your coach. That person knows your game and may have the best insight into what string changes may be best for you. I would suggest not using a full bed of poly. Consider a hybrid with your current synthetic gut. My ex-college players still have their frames strung with a full bed of synthetic gut.

Durability for poly is useless for most players. The string becomes unplayable before it breaks for almost everyone below a 5.0 USTA rating. Plan on restringing poly after every 15 hrs of playing time.

Thanks Roar, .
I'll stick to using the diameter then. Makes sense as a specific measure.

Noted on the hybrid recommendation. My coach and I have talked about this - the initial stringing is really just an experiment to see how going to full Poly feels and then we'll adjust based on feedback. Very much a learning process!
(From what I can tell it won't make much difference to the replacement timing as in a hybrid I'd still have to cut the whole stringbed out when the poly goes. Unless a hybrid setup with syn gut would somehow prolong the life of the poly?)
 
First, why does you coach think you should try a poly? Are you breaking the syn too quickly? Unless you just have super explosive shots, you can get more spin from natural gut than you can a poly, and it will be a lot easier on the arm. If you're breaking the strings too fast, then by all means, try a poly hybrid. And two, just so I know we're on the same page regarding power vs durability, what racket are you using? In the 90s, I strung for several people that bought Prince TT Rips and Rings, as they were the next big, powerful rackets, only to find they couldn't control the power. Poly became their way of adding control, where they probably should have switched back to a less powerful racket.
 
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First, why does you coach think you should try a poly? Are you breaking the syn too quickly? Unless you just have super explosive shots, you can get more spin from natural gut than you can a poly, and it will be a lot easier on the arm. If you're breaking the strings too fast, then by all means, try a poly hybrid. And two, just so I know we're on the same page regarding power vs durability, what racket are you using? In the 90s, I strung for several people that bought Prince TT Rips and Rings, as they were the next big, powerful rackets, only to find they couldn't control the power. Poly became their way of adding control, where they probably should have switched back to a less powerful racket.

Hi Steve, thanks for the note.

As I mentioned to Roar the poly thing is really just an experiment. I've been using a Babolat Evoke 105 up until now which has been fine recreationally for the last year, but since I started lessons and working on technique i definitely feel like I've outgrown it. I really struggle to keep the ball inside the baseline. I wouldn't say I'm swinging out of my boots, but as mentioned above I also play golf and there seems to have been some level of carryover in terms of being able to generate racket speed through the body mechanics.

I'm replacing it with a Yonex Vcore 98 (the 2019 model). The goal was just to find a racket to play with for the next year that was more of a player's spec but not too pricey given I still don't really know what I want. Give it a go and then make a more informed decision based on that. I found a few previous model rackets in the range I was looking at (97-98 head size, 300g+ unstrung weight) that were available in the UK, and then just went with the one I liked the look of better, tbh

(there's been a flurry of activity over here given the combination of loosened restrictions and Wimbledon, so choices were a little limited)

On the string front we just decided to give poly a go to see what I think given that I have been playing nothing but syn gut for the last couple of years. Totally aware that it might not be the right end choice and with the combination of the racket change it could be too far in the opposite direction. We might try a hybrid setup next, or an alternative synthetic, or the same syn I had in the Evoke. It's really just a case of testing it out to see how it feels and how I perform with it to inform future decisions.

The one thing we haven't talked about is natural gut. We basically live in permanent humidity or rain for 10 months of the year so it seems like it might not be the best choice. And tbh whilst we're experimenting it would be nice to keep the price a bit more reasonable at first, then perhaps try some of the more expensive options once I've got a decent baseline

Thanks again
 
I'd get whoever strings your rackets to use the softest poly he had for the mains and about any synthetic for the crosses. But, I'd make sure he charged you for only the 1 string job, as you can easily get 2 string jobs out of a set of poly and a set of synthetic. Better yet, maybe he has something in a reel. When you first start out with a poly, I'd go low in tension--maybe 47-48 pounds. You may really like the feel of poly--some people do. And, don't be afraid to change it before it breaks, especially if you're not breaking synthetic gut now. You probably won't break the poly, and dead poly is terrible on your arm. Good luck with experimenting.
 
i also used vcp97 310g. Lots of solid copoly options. Mayami tour hex 1.23, tier one black knight 1.23, HGS 1.20 or 1.25 are just some good options of shaped poly which provide good combination of power, control, touch/feel. I would recommend stringing low 40s. I do mid to high 30s and it feels wonderfully soft but it might feel like too much of a bazooka for you.
 
Unless you just have super explosive shots, you can get more spin from natural gut than you can a poly, and it will be a lot easier on the arm
This is the opposite of my experience. I played with natural gut for more than a decade before switching first to full poly and then gut/poly hybrids. I get way more spin with full poly and the gut/poly hybrids than I ever did with gut - sometimes it doesn’t even feel like the same sport as it is so much easier to swing out fully with poly strings and keep the ball in the court with higher pace and spin. The only downside is that I have to restring my gut/poly hybrid (VS17/HyperG Soft 18) every 20 hours due to feeling slight discomfort while I played with full gut for more than 25-30 hours typically before I broke the strings.
 
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Welcome to forums. I’m sure you are member of golfwrx as well.

To answer your questions:
1. Go off the diameter. The gauge rating is like golf shaft flex descriptions. Golf shafts can be stiff, regular or lite but they can vary widely between manufacturers. Also with tennis string, some polyesters are shaped or have notches so it is also hard to standardize where the measurement is made. Synthetic gut and multifilaments stretch so you are also getting a slightly thinner string once installed. So many factors to contribute. In general though 17g/ 16l (1.20-1.25) is a good starting point. If you break too quickly go thicker. If you Don break at all you can go thinner.

2. While tension maintenance is a huge factor in playability I think it’s not the only factor. Not much more to be said.

If you are looking for a string the only way to hone in on your ideal string to try some out. Consider attributes like color, texture, stiff/softness, price, availability etc. there are too many polys on the market right now. But you can’t go wrong with a majority of them. Especially the ones stocked by TW
 
go for the thickest non polyester strings before trying out the thinnest possible polyester strings.
polyester strings are made with durability in mind.... a long long long time ago.
 
This is the opposite of my experience. I played with natural gut for more than a decade before switching first to full poly and then gut/poly hybrids. I get way more spin with more full poly and the gut/poly hybrids than I ever did with gut - sometimes it doesn’t even feel like the same sport as it is so much easier to swing out fully with poly strings and keep the ball in the court with higher pace and spin. The only downside is that I have to restring my gut/poly hybrid (VS17/HyperG Soft 18) every 20 hours due to feeling slight discomfort while I played with full gut for more than 25-30 hours typically before I broke the strings.
I was referring to gut/poly hybrids vs all poly for getting more spin. Some of the better players I've strung for that were using all poly or poly/gut hybrids I convinced to try gut mains/poly crosses. All have said they were surprised that they got quite a bit more spin this way. They figured they'd get more power, just surprised about the spin.
 
If you want to try poly, stick yonex poly tour Pro 125 in at 48lbs. It's a good starting point and entry to understanding what poly is about.
 
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