Starting clamp or Stringway double flying clamp?

Merkaffe

Rookie
I'm about to buy my first stringing machine (a ML 120 with fixed 92 clamps and the Concorde system) and because this is a fairly expensive machine (at east for me it is ) I would like some suggestion on what kind of essential accessories I would need, and which I shouldn't spend more money on.

For instance a Babolat starting clamp is around 70 euro + shipment costs (I live in Sweden). Some say you need this and I 've seen a lot of videos explain the benefits having a starting clamp. Stringway advise me to buy their double clamp instead (which is cheaper).

First question is: which one is the best purchase?

Second question is: those of you using a starting clamp, do you also use a double flying clamp?

Third question is: would you say the Stringway cross stringer tool is worth the money or not?

I never strung a racquet before, just watched a lot of instructional videos but I think I'll learn this quickly. I will string for myself and for my friends. There's not a big market for tennis stringers here in Sweden anyway, so I'll probably never earn back the money spent a this machine anyway, but that's OK. I'm mostly doing it to improve my own tennis game, always having a perfectly strung racquet with my favourite strings.
 
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Having just started stringing (<10 racquets) weaving the crosses is a non-issue.

A starting clamp has made starting the mains very easy. I don’t think a flying clamp will fit inside the throat of some (any?) racquets (if they are suggesting you buy the flying clamp just because it’s cheaper but use it as a starting clamp?) So I would get a starting clamp. I have a Pro’s Pro and it works fine. Also, if you find yourself short of string on the last pull, the starting clamp is handy to quickly extend the length with scrap string to reach the tension head. That would also be harder with a flying clamp unless you always had a scrap length of the same string to match the clamp tightness needed.

What is a pain:
Blocked holes with square shaped poly.
Blocked holes with floppy string.
Moronic manufacturer instructions about where to tie-off (because the string that goes through the grommet blocks the entire hole).
String tying knots into itself like a slinky
 
Having just started stringing (<10 racquets) weaving the crosses is a non-issue.

A starting clamp has made starting the mains very easy. I don’t think a flying clamp will fit inside the throat of some (any?) racquets (if they are suggesting you buy the flying clamp just because it’s cheaper but use it as a starting clamp?) So I would get a starting clamp. I have a Pro’s Pro and it works fine. Also, if you find yourself short of string on the last pull, the starting clamp is handy to quickly extend the length with scrap string to reach the tension head. That would also be harder with a flying clamp unless you always had a scrap length of the same string to match the clamp tightness needed.

What is a pain:
Blocked holes with square shaped poly.
Blocked holes with floppy string.
Moronic manufacturer instructions about where to tie-off (because the string that goes through the grommet blocks the entire hole).
String tying knots into itself like a slinky
You need to learn to use a razor blade to cut the ends of strings to sharp points. They slide through blocked holes unbelievably easier. I often consider the blade to be my most valuable tool.

I 100% agree with you about the starting clamp back a floating clamp. I doubt the OP will ever need a floating clamp but the starting clamp is very useful for starting the mains and using as a bridge to get that last pull when the string is short. It’s also good to use when pulling knots.

I’ve had many starting clamps and the main difference is the spring strength or length. The longer equals stronger. Babolat uses longer springs than the others. I forget the names of the spring used but they can be purchased aftermarket on the auction site should you ever need a stronger one.
 
As your machine has fixed clamps, I’d go with a starting clamp. Honestly do not see the benefit of using a flying clamp instead. The starting clamp is a versatile tool.

stringing crosses is a non-issue to me. Practice and experience will make you faster. The tool seems okay, but pretty expensive if you look at the added value.
 
Blocked holes with square shaped poly.
Blocked holes with floppy string.
Moronic manufacturer instructions about where to tie-off (because the string that goes through the grommet blocks the entire hole).
Planning! You can use a stiff piece of scrap in the hole that will be blocked. The string preserves a way for you to get the string around the blockage. With NG, I leave a loop of string around the blocking string so that it can be pulled out of the way when you need to insert a string into the blocked hole. Both ways work. Floppy strings require you to use either super glue or your SO's nail polish stash. You paint the floppy end last 2", let dry and cut a sharp end. Now you can push the string thru.

For tie off holes that appear to be blocked, flatten the tip of the string you are trying to push thru. If the end is hard, it will go thru.
 
I’ve already got something similar, just assumed that perhaps a razor blade could give a better (longer?) edge. I’ve got blades from my other hobby so it’ll be an easy test!
 
I'll go against the grain a little here. I started stringing in 1979. Finally, in about 2016, people on these boards kind of convinced me that a starting clamp was a necessary tool, so I bought one. I used it once or twice out of the 15-20,000 or so rackets I've strung. I prefer the double clamps. You can use it to start the string job, use it to clamp off the last main when doing an ATW pattern while you string the top 1-3 crosses, and you can even bridge a short string to the gripper (I've done it a few times). It's really whichever you get used to stringing with. I'll PM you.
 
I'll go against the grain a little here. I started stringing in 1979. Finally, in about 2016, people on these boards kind of convinced me that a starting clamp was a necessary tool, so I bought one. I used it once or twice out of the 15-20,000 or so rackets I've strung. I prefer the double clamps. You can use it to start the string job, use it to clamp off the last main when doing an ATW pattern while you string the top 1-3 crosses, and you can even bridge a short string to the gripper (I've done it a few times). It's really whichever you get used to stringing with. I'll PM you.
I bought my first starting clamp a Babolat back in the early 80s. Used it for a while then it just sat for a very long time. Then for at least the last 20 years I’ve used them a lot, but I never used them any more on the outside of the frame. I use a Yonex SC to start my mains, a Gamma or Babolat SC to pull knots, and rarely I use a SC to bridge short strings. When stringing an ATW pattern hands down my claws free up a machine clamp better than a SC. I would not go with a Stringway though I would buy pro stringer claws. The main reason I like the claws better is they adjust to the spacing between the strings you’re clamping so there is less distortion.
 
I'll go against the grain a little here. I started stringing in 1979. Finally, in about 2016, people on these boards kind of convinced me that a starting clamp was a necessary tool, so I bought one. I used it once or twice out of the 15-20,000 or so rackets I've strung. I prefer the double clamps. You can use it to start the string job, use it to clamp off the last main when doing an ATW pattern while you string the top 1-3 crosses, and you can even bridge a short string to the gripper (I've done it a few times). It's really whichever you get used to stringing with. I'll PM you.
There seem to be some different alternatives how to start a stringing job, but when you say to use a double clamp to start the string job (when using fixed clamps?), which method are you referring to?

I bought my first starting clamp a Babolat back in the early 80s. Used it for a while then it just sat for a very long time. Then for at least the last 20 years I’ve used them a lot, but I never used them any more on the outside of the frame. I use a Yonex SC to start my mains, a Gamma or Babolat SC to pull knots, and rarely I use a SC to bridge short strings. When stringing an ATW pattern hands down my claws free up a machine clamp better than a SC. I would not go with a Stringway though I would buy pro stringer claws. The main reason I like the claws better is they adjust to the spacing between the strings you’re clamping so there is less distortion.
So you use at least two different starting clamps and a pro stringer double clamp? The Yonex SC is too expensive for me. I will not be a professional stringer . The claw looks nice. Is the claw generally considered a better clamp than the Stringway?

I 100% agree with you about the starting clamp back a floating clamp. I doubt the OP will ever need a floating clamp but the starting clamp is very useful for starting the mains and using as a bridge to get that last pull when the string is short. It’s also good to use when pulling knots.

I’ve had many starting clamps and the main difference is the spring strength or length. The longer equals stronger. Babolat uses longer springs than the others. I forget the names of the spring used but they can be purchased aftermarket on the auction site should you ever need a stronger one.
Thanks. Is there a risk for the stronger SCs, like the Babolat, to damage the string, if using inside the frame?
 
There seem to be some different alternatives how to start a stringing job, but when you say to use a double clamp to start the string job (when using fixed clamps?), which method are you referring to?


So you use at least two different starting clamps and a pro stringer double clamp? The Yonex SC is too expensive for me. I will not be a professional stringer . The claw looks nice. Is the claw generally considered a better clamp than the Stringway?


Thanks. Is there a risk for the stronger SCs, like the Babolat, to damage the string, if using inside the frame?
I’m not certain I understand the inside the frame reference but I’ll assume you mean a portion not being tied off and cut.

I don’t believe so. I don’t use the type with rough holding plates or sandpaper inserts. I can’t see how it would be any more harmful than the stringer jaws clamping and pulling at 60lbs where they squeeze and squeeze and squeeze. These would be much more of a constant hold. I’m also not recommending going extremely beyond the normal.

There’s a thread her somewhere where I demonstrated in pictures the variety of clamps. At one time I had upwards of 5 or 6. I took the springs off of all of them. Some of the unbranded ones had three springs but most just have two springs. The difference is the length of the spring and not the number of springs. No amount of sandpaper or diamond dust can not make up for a weak, small spring.

I went ahead and searched. The spring is called a volute spring. Here’s the link to the picture thread.

 
There seem to be some different alternatives how to start a stringing job, but when you say to use a double clamp to start the string job (when using fixed clamps?), which method are you referring to?


So you use at least two different starting clamps and a pro stringer double clamp? The Yonex SC is too expensive for me. I will not be a professional stringer . The claw looks nice. Is the claw generally considered a better clamp than the Stringway?


Thanks. Is there a risk for the stronger SCs, like the Babolat, to damage the string, if using inside the frame?
I pull 1 main at a time. I've never tried the method where you pull both mains at the same time. I do 3 mains to the short side, then 5 on the long side, and alternate.
 
I bought my first starting clamp a Babolat back in the early 80s. Used it for a while then it just sat for a very long time. Then for at least the last 20 years I’ve used them a lot, but I never used them any more on the outside of the frame. I use a Yonex SC to start my mains, a Gamma or Babolat SC to pull knots, and rarely I use a SC to bridge short strings. When stringing an ATW pattern hands down my claws free up a machine clamp better than a SC. I would not go with a Stringway though I would buy pro stringer claws. The main reason I like the claws better is they adjust to the spacing between the strings you’re clamping so there is less distortion.
I was just giving my opinion between the options the original poster gave. You, and others, seem to really like the claws. I'm considering buying a couple of them. Just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
 
I was just giving my opinion between the options the original poster gave. You, and others, seem to really like the claws. I'm considering buying a couple of them. Just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
If the Stringway clamps were angled like the claws it would matter. Both are high quality cast aluminum clamps. The claws adjust to the string separation and adjust from anything from badminton racket to wide spaced spin rackets. You can cla,p strings closer together or farther apart without distorting the strings. They do take some getting used to though. The clamping section may b narrower or wider than the opening to the clamp. I’m glad I got the claws but I think I would have been just as happy with Stringway clamps.
 
So you use at least two different starting clamps and a pro stringer double clamp? The Yonex SC is too expensive for me. I will not be a professional stringer . The claw looks nice. Is the claw generally considered a better clamp than the Stringway?
I use the Yonex clamp only for starting mains. I use my spring spring loaded clamps for tying knots and maybe bridging. no Particular reason I use one instead of another. They all work well. The Yonex can be adjusted for string thickness like a fixed clamp. But on a spring loaded you can adjust the point where you clamp the string and maybe do the same thing. If I were stringing with thin badminton strings the Yonex (ToyozoukI) SC would be the best choice.
 
Thanks for the advice. I did buy a Babolat starting clamp and choose a different machine, Stringmaster deluxe LE with electronic tension head. It feels to be of high quality and my first stringing was not too bad. When I compared my tie off knots to the knots on the old cut off strings I was surprised to see that the latter actually weren't real knots (I wish I had taken a photo).
 
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