Starting Crosses with knot or starting clamp?

Shroud

Talk Tennis Guru
I also use a starting clamp to start my crosses, so all knots are the same,and you would not be tying off on a main string and pulling tension against it, and when using thin gut or other 'fragile' multifilament strings, and especially at higher tensions, it is not uncommon to snap that first cross string right at the knot or at the two sharp turns the string makes, With using a starting clamp, you do not pull tension against these turns. The USRSA stated at a stringers symposium that they will be updating their recommended procedure, for using the starting clamp use to start crosses.

I get rid of the starting clamp usually right in the beginning.
I clamp the end with the starting clamp outside the frame, then clamp the far end as usual(fixed clamps), then clamp the near end and get rid of the starting clamp and tie off right in the beginning, just so no accidents occur to knock off the starting clamp.(Obviously I wait till a few crosses are placed on racquets that tie off on crosses like the pure storm which is tied to the 3rd cross),I actually see no benefit to waiting till later, but I'm sure its a matter of preference like many other issues. ( Since that beginning cross string is now a tie off I also up the tension like I usually do for tie offs, but thats another issue) .
I thought i was using your method where you pull the 1st 2 crosses together, set the clamp and pull tension on the top cross and tie off like you would a main or the last cross. But you dont need a starting clamp for that, so are you using a different method than the one you sent in to the USRSA?
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
That actually wouldn't be a bad idea though if doing 2pc, to halve the crosses string length and start at whatever the middle cross is. That seems to make more sense to me than doing the just the top 2 or 3.
LOL been there done that have a have videos on each. The 1 piece 50/50 and the 2 piece 50/50.
 

chrisingrassia

Professional
LOL been there done that have a have videos on each. The 1 piece 50/50 and the 2 piece 50/50.
Just took a quick peek at your and Yulitle's videos. I certainly wouldn't advise the 50/50 1pc given that massive length of string on the outside of the grommets when transitioning from the last main to the middle cross (yuck). And even with the 50/50 2pc, I wouldn't start pulling tension on the middle crosses and work my way out; I was just referring to weaving all the crosses starting at the middle and work your way up/down until they're all pre-weaved and you start tensioning at the very top and work your way down.

Does doing the 50/50 with tension in the middle crosses first go against the philosophy of stringing from head to the throat, which you are such a proponent of?
 
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Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
Does doing the 50/50 with tension in the middle crosses first go against the philosophy of stringing from head to the throat, which you are such a proponent of?
Yes it does but I talking to the stringer at Prince in New Jersey when they were still up there and he said you should string two crosses above center then 2 below and continue string 2 and 2 until you finish never getting ahead on the bottom of the frame. I have no idea of why. The only benefit of using the 2 piece 50/50 is the string always rests in the correct side of the port and you never need any special tools, brakes, hips, or anything else.
 

jim e

Legend
I thought i was using your method where you pull the 1st 2 crosses together, set the clamp and pull tension on the top cross and tie off like you would a main or the last cross. But you dont need a starting clamp for that, so are you using a different method than the one you sent in to the USRSA?
I no longer use the starting clamp to pull directly against, as that post was over10 years old.
Someone opened up an old thread here.
This thread started in April 2010

Over time one can change the way one strings, picking up different things along the way.
At one time I did use a starting clamp, but since then

I start cross strings by pulling top 2 cross strings and clamp 2nd cross farthest away from tension head.
Then pull top cross string, clamp, tie off.
Weave one ahead, then pull 2nd cross string, remove anchor clamp and clamp 2nd cross as normal and continue as normal weaving one ahead. This was the technique that was sent to the USRSA
 
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Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
Over time one can change the way one strings, picking up different things along the way.
At one time I did use a starting clamp, but since then
Like @jim e I used to use a starting clamp but have changed over time. Now my preference is to string 1 piece which avoids the issue of whether or not to use a starting clamp / knot. But all rackets are not good candidates to string 1 piece. When using 2 piece stringing I prefer a starting knot (actually my iKnot,) but I must admit some times I do use a starting clamp to start crosses.
 

Shroud

Talk Tennis Guru
I no longer use the starting clamp, as that post was over10 years old.
Someone opened up an old thread here.
This thread started in April 2010

Over time one can change the way one strings, picking up different things along the way.
At one time I did use a starting clamp, but since then

I start cross strings by pulling top 2 cross strings and clamp 2nd cross farthest away from tension head.
Then pull top cross string, clamp, tie off.
Weave one ahead, then pull 2nd cross string, remove anchor clamp and clamp 2nd cross as normal and continue as normal weaving one ahead. This was the technique that was sent to the USRSA
Ok. I missed the date on the post!! Thanks again for the technique, it works great
 

Chappy

New User
@jim e

Let me make sure I understand what you are doing. You pull both the first/second cross let's say on the right side of the frame. You clamp off on the left side on the second cross furthest away from the tension head. Then you release tension and pull the top cross, clamp and tie off.
Why do the first double pull? Is it to get the string straight in the clamp? Otherwise why not just clamp on the second cross furthest from the tension head and the pull the first cross? I'm not criticizing just trying to make sure I understand. Thanks.
 

dak95_00

Hall of Fame
@gdeangel

You should read this. No need for a starting clamp. You can pull two strings at the same time.

I no longer use the starting clamp, as that post was over10 years old.
Someone opened up an old thread here.
This thread started in April 2010

Over time one can change the way one strings, picking up different things along the way.
At one time I did use a starting clamp, but since then

I start cross strings by pulling top 2 cross strings and clamp 2nd cross farthest away from tension head.
Then pull top cross string, clamp, tie off.
Weave one ahead, then pull 2nd cross string, remove anchor clamp and clamp 2nd cross as normal and continue as normal weaving one ahead. This was the technique that was sent to the USRSA
 

jim e

Legend
@jim e

Let me make sure I understand what you are doing. You pull both the first/second cross let's say on the right side of the frame. You clamp off on the left side on the second cross furthest away from the tension head. Then you release tension and pull the top cross, clamp and tie off.
Why do the first double pull? Is it to get the string straight in the clamp? Otherwise why not just clamp on the second cross furthest from the tension head and the pull the first cross? I'm not criticizing just trying to make sure I understand. Thanks.

It keeps the string straight in clamp, and some tension is also inside the couple inches of string that the clamp uses.
You can also back up the anchor clamp with a starting clamp on the outside of the 2nd cross string near tension head as then that also keeps some tension on the 2nd cross string and then when you pull the 1st cross to clamp and tie off you have some forces in opposite direction so the single machine clamp is not only thing being forces against, so the machine clamp can be less tight against the string and still hold decent so there is no slipping and no crushing of the string. Then after tie off top cross you can re pull 2nd cross , clamp and continue as normal.
I usually use the starting clamp on the 2nd string as well, but it works without as well. I just like the extra security of not needing the machine clamp to be set tight with that 1st pull so no slipping by being too loose or too tight to crush string as the tension of the 2nd cross even though is less , will apply forces in opposite direction of machine pull on that 1st cross string pull, so the machine clamp does not really need to be that tight to prevent slipping.. I do the same when I start mains. This technique works well, and you tension each string individually as recommended by USRSA so no issues there as well, as you only double pull to set the anchor clamp is all. The article that the USRSA published was with me backing up that 2nd cross string with the starter, for above reasons.
 
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Chappy

New User
Thanks. The starting clamp added to it makes more sense to me. Thank you for the different technique. I will give it a try.
 

Bad Old Man

New User
I am admittedly old and set in my ways, but over many, many years I have never had an issue using starting knots and pulling tension directly on the first cross. If it ain't broke...
 

hchander

New User
I also use a starting clamp to start my crosses, so all knots are the same,and you would not be tying off on a main string and pulling tension against it, and when using thin gut or other 'fragile' multifilament strings, and especially at higher tensions, it is not uncommon to snap that first cross string right at the knot or at the two sharp turns the string makes, With using a starting clamp, you do not pull tension against these turns. The USRSA stated at a stringers symposium that they will be updating their recommended procedure, for using the starting clamp use to start crosses.

I get rid of the starting clamp usually right in the beginning.
I clamp the end with the starting clamp outside the frame, then clamp the far end as usual(fixed clamps), then clamp the near end and get rid of the starting clamp and tie off right in the beginning, just so no accidents occur to knock off the starting clamp.(Obviously I wait till a few crosses are placed on racquets that tie off on crosses like the pure storm which is tied to the 3rd cross),I actually see no benefit to waiting till later, but I'm sure its a matter of preference like many other issues. ( Since that beginning cross string is now a tie off I also up the tension like I usually do for tie offs, but thats another issue) .
This seems like a good idea - any reasons not to do this?
 

jim e

Legend
This seems like a good idea - any reasons not to do this?
That post I made was over 14 years ago. I now start crosses the following way.
I weave 2nd cross, then weave 1st cross. Pull tension on both. Clamp 2nd cross farthest from tension head, and place starting clamp on outside 2nd cross near tension head. Release tension head. Pull top cross, clamp and tie off. Pull 2nd cross, remove clamps, clamp 2nd cross. Continue weaving one ahead and continue down to throat with cross strings. This method I submitted to the USRSA a number years ago and they published it in their magazine.
 

Wes

Hall of Fame
This seems like a good idea - any reasons not to do this?

1) It does require a little more string length than other options.

So, if one likes to use the least amount of string (as I do), it may not be your option of choice.

2) If one is using a machine w/ glide-bars, it could be quite cramped/fiddly to find room to position two glide-bars directly next to one another in order to clamp cross #1 after already having clamped cross #2.


To be clear... @jim e's method is a fine method indeed (especially if one does not have a starting clamp - yet also doesn’t want to use a starting knot) and is using a machine with fixed swivel clamps.
 
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