starting mains on klippermate

S

sunshineCK

New User
well, after lurking around on this forum for a while, I've finally received my Klippermate today and I can't wait to get started!!

one question I had for those who've used this machine before- I've been watching YULitle's videos and he starts the mains by pulling on both strings, clamping inside, then doing the next one and clamping outside. (here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KO9qWaom4cg) have people used this method on the Klippermate, or is it best to stick to the manual's method of using the starting pin? any advice would be appreciated!
 
This method works. I use a Silent Partner Swing, which is similar enough to the K-mate. I dunno about the starting pin, though. Maybe the next guy to read your question will. I have a feeling it doesn't matter which method you choose...

Have fun!
 
Stick to the instructions in the manual, using the starting pin etc. I had one for a couple years and their starting method is the way to go.
 
I've always used the starting pin when starting the mains; never really tried using the other floating clamp on the outside of the frame. Both ways are fine, though.

On a side note... I have to use my starting clamp with the starting pin as well, because my clamps like to slip, but ONLY when I start my mains; yes, it's weird, I know, but hopefully you won't run into this minor inconvenience as I do.
 
Deck said:
Stick to the instructions in the manual, using the starting pin etc. I had one for a couple years and their starting method is the way to go.
Click to expand...

As a Klippermate user for 4+ years I agree with this. I love YULite's videos but here I would stick with the Klippermate manual for guidance on starting mains.
</$.02>
 
sunshineCK said:
Thanks for all the advice guys! I'll let you know how my first string job goes :)
Click to expand...

Here are my abbreviated Klippermate instructions:

Method A (use if 2 or 6 holes in throat)
Mount racquet
Feed strings through bottom 2 holes in throat
With handle to your right, feed 1 string through hole away from you in head
Clamp this string and next closest string at head
Pull string loop out at throat and pull with weight
Put pin in away hole at throat and clamp to string
Release pull
Swing handle to your left
Pull away string with weight and clamp at head, just above other clamp
Remove pin and release weight
Swing handle to your right and repeat pulls and clamping for both strings
Repeat until mains completed

Method B (use if 4 or 8 holes in throat)
Mount racquet
Feed strings through top 2 holes in head
With handle to your left, feed 1 string through hole away from you in throat
Clamp this string and next closest string at throat
Pull string loop out at head and pull with weight
Put pin in away hole at head and clamp to string
Release pull
Swing handle to your right
Pull away string with weight and clamp at throat, just above other clamp
Remove pin and release weight
Swing handle to your left and repeat pulls and clamping for both strings
Repeat until mains completed

good luck!
 
just finished!

well, just finished my first job in about two hours! I was debating between the K-mate and the Gamma X-2, as many people have done (and I believe enough threads have been started about that, thanks), and I'm very satisfied with my purchase :)

(I'll give a summary of my experience, but first can I ask if people sensed any reduced tension in the stringbed at a set weight compared to a "professionally" strung racquet? any compensation necessary?)

for anyone else deciding between the two, you may be caught up on whether the racheting system of the X-2 is a huge advantage over the K-mate. I think this is not the case at all- the K-mate's gripper is solid, and adjusting the slack became intuitive after 4-5 pulls. patience is required, but as people have said before, you really get used to the amount to pull depending on the string you use!

other than that, the starting pin method and the manual were very helpful, and I spent a lot of time learning how to tie the Parnell knot and bulky knot from YULitle's videos- I can see how with practice I'll be able to save 30-60 minutes over my initial time easily.

the construction of the K-mate is solid, and you can't beat the lifetime guarantee and the clamps are great. they came pre-set and I didn't have to change anything to string the syn gut included in the package. all in all a great experience, thanks for all the help guys! (now onto polys, which will probably be another challenge...)
 
i personally don't use a starting pin and my sticks end up about the same as when i used to take them into a pro shop. anyhow, congrats on your first string job! you should be able to do a string job in ~30 minutes once you get good. if you're doing poly or an 18x20 stick, it'll take you ~45 minutes.
 
Two hours is a great first time time! I think I went over that by about 45 minutes; I was dreadfully afraid I'd blow something.

I have to say that in comparison to the string jobs I was getting out of the local club, my own Kmate jobs were at least equal, if not superior. (Not that I'm great, etc., but the club's technique was to let other members string the frames that came in, and they'd take a cut.)
 
If you use the Klippermate instructions you MAY be fine. The process that YULitle uses sets the tension in the clamp before you strat stringing. You will find if you do not use YULitle method you may end up marring the string when you start because the string tension is not set in the clamp.

Irvin
 
Irvin said:
If you use the Klippermate instructions you MAY be fine. The process that YULitle uses sets the tension in the clamp before you strat stringing. You will find if you do not use YULitle method you may end up marring the string when you start because the string tension is not set in the clamp.

Irvin
Click to expand...

Irvin, could you clarify why any marring would occur? I did see some after inspecting my string job, in the middle mains...
 
..

I too bought a Klippermate a few years ago, and for less than $150 it was a great purchase. I only string for myself and my wife, so volume is not an issue. The instruction manual was top notch for people like myself who had no clue. I let 2 other friends borrow the unit (rather than do their racquets and screw up something) and they both commented how easy it was to use. The step-by-step pics and words are excellant.

I always use the starting pin. Its not that big of a deal or time delay.

HOWEVER... one bad thing I discovered recently, even tho Klippermate SAYS a lifetime guarantee.... they basically drill you on the phone like a cross-examination... and if something broke or wore out because you didn't do EXACTLY like the book says.... they won't replace the part for free. I know this because I called this year when I broke one of the wing nuts on the sliding arm piece. Because I used a pliers to snug the wing nut instead of "finger tighten only", dude wouldn't pay. This is for a wing nut which costs like .02 cents. I had also stripped a screw on a clamp, and the dude wanted to know "how tight did I turn it to make it strip?". I'm pretty quick at times, so I replied "as tight as it says in the instructions.". He reluctantly gave me a set....lol.

Some day I might upgrade to a better stringer... but for now i just enjoy buying different strings and trying them out. Sure, $8 - $13 for a pack of strings isn't cheap, but when you compare it to a pro shop doing it.... lol... I probably spend MORE on strings now in total, then I did just having my racquet strung at the shop! TW loves me for it I'm sure. Maybe THEY should give me a wing nut for free!
 
sunshineCK said:
well, just finished my first job in about two hours! I was debating between the K-mate and the Gamma X-2, as many people have done (and I believe enough threads have been started about that, thanks), and I'm very satisfied with my purchase :)

(I'll give a summary of my experience, but first can I ask if people sensed any reduced tension in the stringbed at a set weight compared to a "professionally" strung racquet? any compensation necessary?)

for anyone else deciding between the two, you may be caught up on whether the racheting system of the X-2 is a huge advantage over the K-mate. I think this is not the case at all- the K-mate's gripper is solid, and adjusting the slack became intuitive after 4-5 pulls. patience is required, but as people have said before, you really get used to the amount to pull depending on the string you use!

other than that, the starting pin method and the manual were very helpful, and I spent a lot of time learning how to tie the Parnell knot and bulky knot from YULitle's videos- I can see how with practice I'll be able to save 30-60 minutes over my initial time easily.

the construction of the K-mate is solid, and you can't beat the lifetime guarantee and the clamps are great. they came pre-set and I didn't have to change anything to string the syn gut included in the package. all in all a great experience, thanks for all the help guys! (now onto polys, which will probably be another challenge...)
Click to expand...

Excellent job! You must be a quick study :)
 
Bud said:
Excellent job! You must be a quick study :)
Click to expand...

thanks! I think being an engineer helps (it's gotta be good for something, right?) :)

I started stringing hybrids using Gosen Polylon 17 and OG Sheep Micro 17. the polylon is some stiff stuff, although I'm sure not as bad compared to other polys.... some issues I've run into are the clamps making marks on the poly, which probably isn't that big of a deal, and also trying to figure out the "true" tension of the dropweight scale. other than that, still a satisfied customer!
 
Mongolmike said:
I too bought a Klippermate a few years ago, and for less than $150 it was a great purchase. I only string for myself and my wife, so volume is not an issue. The instruction manual was top notch for people like myself who had no clue. I let 2 other friends borrow the unit (rather than do their racquets and screw up something) and they both commented how easy it was to use. The step-by-step pics and words are excellant.

I always use the starting pin. Its not that big of a deal or time delay.

HOWEVER... one bad thing I discovered recently, even tho Klippermate SAYS a lifetime guarantee.... they basically drill you on the phone like a cross-examination... and if something broke or wore out because you didn't do EXACTLY like the book says.... they won't replace the part for free. I know this because I called this year when I broke one of the wing nuts on the sliding arm piece. Because I used a pliers to snug the wing nut instead of "finger tighten only", dude wouldn't pay. This is for a wing nut which costs like .02 cents. I had also stripped a screw on a clamp, and the dude wanted to know "how tight did I turn it to make it strip?". I'm pretty quick at times, so I replied "as tight as it says in the instructions.". He reluctantly gave me a set....lol.
Some day I might upgrade to a better stringer... but for now i just enjoy buying different strings and trying them out. Sure, $8 - $13 for a pack of strings isn't cheap, but when you compare it to a pro shop doing it.... lol... I probably spend MORE on strings now in total, then I did just having my racquet strung at the shop! TW loves me for it I'm sure. Maybe THEY should give me a wing nut for free!
Click to expand...

Shame you had this experience because in my dealings with Klipper, they have been fantastic. A couple of times I have had minor issues with parts gripper jaws, shoulder screws) and without asking for replacements, Klipper have shipped parts to me in Australia asap. Dave from Klipper is great to deal with - no question is too stupid and nothing is too much trouble. Klipper have legendary after sales service and support and it is a little disappointing you were put through the third degree.
 
sunshineCK said:
thanks! I think being an engineer helps (it's gotta be good for something, right?) :)

I started stringing hybrids using Gosen Polylon 17 and OG Sheep Micro 17. the polylon is some stiff stuff, although I'm sure not as bad compared to other polys.... some issues I've run into are the clamps making marks on the poly, which probably isn't that big of a deal, and also trying to figure out the "true" tension of the dropweight scale. other than that, still a satisfied customer!
Click to expand...

Isn't the tension scale stamped into the metal bar?
 
TenniseaWilliams said:
Klippermate uses a decal to indicate tension. Some of us are more trusting than others.
Click to expand...

yeah, not that I'm knocking the build quality of the Kmate, but it's just too time consuming for them to calibrate each machine (ie, the placement of the sticker indicating tension). anyways, since I posted that question I've found threads where beernutz and others calib'd the Kmate to have about 4-5 lb less tension per pull, which is what I've been going with until I get my own tension calibrator.
 
sunshineCK said:
thanks! I think being an engineer helps (it's gotta be good for something, right?) :)

I started stringing hybrids using Gosen Polylon 17 and OG Sheep Micro 17. the polylon is some stiff stuff, although I'm sure not as bad compared to other polys.... some issues I've run into are the clamps making marks on the poly, which probably isn't that big of a deal, and also trying to figure out the "true" tension of the dropweight scale. other than that, still a satisfied customer!
Click to expand...

clamp marks are always there when I tension polys or multi's
 
SOY78 said:
clamp marks are always there when I tension polys or multi's
Click to expand...

I tend to have my clamps a little tighter than really necessary because I'd rather slight clamp marks than have the string slip. Any clamp marks are near the frame and have no impact on playability or durability.

My gut feeling is that the K'mate under tensions by around 2 - 4 pounds which I'm okay with considering some of the shockingly inaccurate tensions done by pro shops.
 
aussie said:
I tend to have my clamps a little tighter than really necessary because I'd rather slight clamp marks than have the string slip. Any clamp marks are near the frame and have no impact on playability or durability.

My gut feeling is that the K'mate under tensions by around 2 - 4 pounds which I'm okay with considering some of the shockingly inaccurate tensions done by pro shops.
Click to expand...

true, this is why I didn't bother changing the clamp settings after seeing the marks...figured it wasn't a total destruction of the string's properties, and especially not where the impact forces would be greatest. plus, I wouldn't want polys slipping on me :)
 
HOWEVER... one bad thing I discovered recently, even tho Klippermate SAYS a lifetime guarantee.... they basically drill you on the phone like a cross-examination... and if something broke or wore out because you didn't do EXACTLY like the book says.... they won't replace the part for free. I know this because I called this year when I broke one of the wing nuts on the sliding arm piece. Because I used a pliers to snug the wing nut instead of "finger tighten only", dude wouldn't pay. This is for a wing nut which costs like .02 cents. I had also stripped a screw on a clamp, and the dude wanted to know "how tight did I turn it to make it strip?". I'm pretty quick at times, so I replied "as tight as it says in the instructions.". He reluctantly gave me a set....lol.
Click to expand...

Sometimes it seems like these type of experiences just depend on who you draw to speak with at a company.

I started stringing on a Klippermate many years ago. After about two or three hundred jobs one clamp broke. The screw that adjusts the pressure broke off inside the handle and couldn't be removed. I called and they sent out another, without even asking that I return the broken clamp until after I had received the new one.
A month or so later the other clamp developed a similar problem, the bolt that adjusts the pressure bent and couldn't be turned. Again they sent out a new clamp, and simply ask me to return the old one in the same box the new one was shipped in.
A little while after that, I bought another machine and boxed up my Klippermate. I still have the like new replacement clamps which I use. They make a great "starting clamp", as they are good at starting crosses, making a bridge or whatever.
 
Last edited:
I think they're great. Without a hitch, without a painful cross-examination, they sent me a package of those small screws used to adjust the top plates of the clamps. Nary a problem.

I also called them with a hassle---wanted to know how to string a couple of old wood racquets. They spent about 20 minutes meticulously going over how to string them. Service=above and beyond the call.
 
Agreed. I love Klipper's service; they've really been helpful when I've needed new parts for my Klippermate...

What can I say, I'm a clutz..
 
stick to the pin

Use the pin. The less clamping the better. When ever you clamp a string it hurts it- expecially gut and high end mulitfiliments.
 
sunshineCK said:
yeah, not that I'm knocking the build quality of the Kmate, but it's just too time consuming for them to calibrate each machine (ie, the placement of the sticker indicating tension). anyways, since I posted that question I've found threads where beernutz and others calib'd the Kmate to have about 4-5 lb less tension per pull, which is what I've been going with until I get my own tension calibrator.
Click to expand...

My educated guess is that the Klippermate engineers designed the machine to get the same string bed stiffness as the then prevalent pro shop machine which was a crank - Ektelon/Prince Model H etc. To get the same string bed stiffness using a CP as a crank machine you need to pull with less tension. So the Klipper scale was purposely designed to be proportionally less than actual tension.

I've done over 900 string jobs with my Klippermate and several hundred on a crank machine and I was concerned about the string bed stiffness I'd get with the transition. It wasn't a problem. The string bed stiffness that I've recorded after the transition is pretty much identical with the same refernece tension settings. The Klipper engineers deserve more credit than they're getting. :)
 
SW Stringer said:
My educated guess is that the Klippermate engineers designed the machine to get the same string bed stiffness as the then prevalent pro shop machine which was a crank - Ektelon/Prince Model H etc. To get the same string bed stiffness using a CP as a crank machine you need to pull with less tension. So the Klipper scale was purposely designed to be proportionally less than actual tension.

I've done over 900 string jobs with my Klippermate and several hundred on a crank machine and I was concerned about the string bed stiffness I'd get with the transition. It wasn't a problem. The string bed stiffness that I've recorded after the transition is pretty much identical with the same refernece tension settings. The Klipper engineers deserve more credit than they're getting. :)
Click to expand...

Interesting observation :)
 
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