String length question

[RoarTT]

Hi.

If i use a set of 12 meter long poly an cut it i half, will that allways be enough string for all the main strings in a two piece string job taking to account reaching the tension puller on the outer most mains and tying the two main knots? And still having enough to finish the crosses? Even on a 98 sq in, 18x20 racket?

Are the lengths for mains and crosses given in this link what is needed to pull all tensions and tying all knots or are they just sums of following the string thru the grommets without knots and tension pulling?

https://www.klipperusa.com/stringing/viewpattern.php?mfg=TWIL

Thanks!

 

[esgee48]

KM's lengths are from the manufacturer and are rather generous. They generally work and waste a lot of string if you use reels. If you want to do a 2 piece with a 40' pack, the 1st time, do not cut the string. Do all your mains. Tie off your knots. Then cut and measure what's left. If it is more than 20', then the next time, cut the string after measuring the entire set. DO NOT ASSUME packaged lengths are accurate. Polys generally do not stretch much and KM's lengths are still good. Nylon based strings can be as much as 2-4' less due to stretching. A lot of 16x19 can be done with 35' or less of SG.

edit: If you think you will end up short doing the crosses, use a Starting Knot rather than a Starting Clamp because that will save having to reach the tensioner on the 1st cross.

 

[RoarTT]

KM's lengths are from the manufacturer and are rather generous. They generally work and waste a lot of string if you use reels. If you want to do a 2 piece with a 40' pack, the 1st time, do not cut the string. Do all your mains. Tie off your knots. Then cut and measure what's left. If it is more than 20', then the next time, cut the string after measuring the entire set. DO NOT ASSUME packaged lengths are accurate. Polys generally do not stretch much and KM's lengths are still good. Nylon based strings can be as much as 2-4' less due to stretching. A lot of 16x19 can be done with 35' or less of SG.

edit: If you think you will end up short doing the crosses, use a Starting Knot rather than a Starting Clamp because that will save having to reach the tensioner on the 1st cross.

I see. But i will mostly be using single sets and on different rackets. That's why it will become a little tiering if i have to deal with all that string when pulling tension and tying knots om the main strings if im not going to cut them up into mains part and crosses part. That's the reason why i asked if there was just a rule of thumb for how much i need for the main strings so that i can cut what i need and quickly get started on the mains without much wondering.

 

[Tennis_Monk]

I see. But i will mostly be using single sets and on different rackets. That's why it will become a little tiering if i have to deal with all that string when pulling tension and tying knots om the main strings if im not going to cut them up into mains part and crosses part. That's the reason why i asked if there was just a rule of thumb for how much i need for the main strings so that i can cut what i need and quickly get started on the mains without much wondering.

I recently started stringing, for myself. I also use single sets and not sure if there is any value or savings by measuring single set strings.

So far I just cut strings in half ( 20 ft each) and it seems to work for me. My racquets are 98-100 inch and not oversized.110 inch might need some adjustments.

 

[eelhc]

Take careful notes for each frame, tension and string type.

Almost all racquets are 27" long. For most string types and tensions, 8 racquet lengths (18 feet) are plenty for mains on a 16x19 98sqin frame. 9 Racquet lengths (20' 3") is plenty for mains on a 18x20 98sqin frame.

I use reels mostly so I make notes on how much tail I have left over after tying off and adjust how much I cut accordingly on subsequent string jobs.

Take careful notes for each frame, tension and string type.

 

[esgee48]

I work with packs of strings as well as reels. Reels are obviously measured, whether it is my reel or the clients. Packs, if from a name brand, will generally state 12m or 40'. But the pack could only contain 39' (12m), which if cut in half, may be too short for mains.

edit: Keep notes if you use reels because you want to reduce wasted string.

 

[Bespectacled]

Best tip I found was from this video by Tennisbyspize:

Rather than measuring a set length (eg 20') or number of racquet lengths, count off lengths of the racquet head mains and crosses. Makes perfect sense as you are measuring directly against the string pattern.

He recommends +1 main length and +2 cross lengths. For example, for a 16x20 use 17 lengths of the mains and 22 lengths of the crosses for your two pieces. Worked perfectly for stringing poly from reels on my Dunlop Bio and Yonex Tour F, though for the syn gut crosses I could have used +1 length instead of +2 due to the stretch.

 

[Irvin]

When working with sets of stiff string for an 18x20 racket you may have problems having enough string to do the mains if you cut the set in half. Rather than cutting the set it half use a 10' 6" short side. Preweave all the mains on the long side and 3 mains on the short side. Then tension 3 mains on the SS, 6 mains on the LS, finish the SS, then finish the LS. The reason for the 3-6 method is so you don't wrap the LS string around the base of the stringer. Tie off LS and use what is left for crosses.

 

[RoarTT]

Best tip I found was from this video by Tennisbyspize:

Rather than measuring a set length (eg 20') or number of racquet lengths, count off lengths of the racquet head mains and crosses. Makes perfect sense as you are measuring directly against the string pattern.

He recommends +1 main length and +2 cross lengths. For example, for a 16x20 use 17 lengths of the mains and 22 lengths of the crosses for your two pieces. Worked perfectly for stringing poly from reels on my Dunlop Bio and Yonex Tour F, though for the syn gut crosses I could have used +1 length instead of +2 due to the stretch.

That's exactly what i tried yesterday when stringing my dunlop bio300tour 18x20. The thing is, if you have a reel then this is propably a good tip to allways be sure you get enough. But i counted up the mains and crosses with a set of rpm blast doing this and i got to 19 mains but only around 17 crosses. Bottom line is that i don't think there is enough string in a 12 meter set for using all these different techniques found om YouTube and so on, to divide a set into the mains part and crosses part. At least not for all rackets.

So i ended up doing something close to just cutting the set in two and then i endes up with being only two inches away for not having enough string for reaching the tension puller on the last mains, but crosses had more then enough. So thats why i became a little skeptical as to how i should be dividing a set in the future with two piece stringing.

 

[esgee48]

That's why I don't cut the package. I almost always cut after all the mains are finished and tied off [exceptions are Prince mids.] When you end up short, and have to bridge, you note it and say 'Almost Never Again!' Precutting means you trust your memory whereas notes are to be read.

 

[fuzz nation]

Hi.

If i use a set of 12 meter long poly an cut it i half, will that allways be enough string for all the main strings in a two piece string job taking to account reaching the tension puller on the outer most mains and tying the two main knots? And still having enough to finish the crosses? Even on a 98 sq in, 18x20 racket?

Are the lengths for mains and crosses given in this link what is needed to pull all tensions and tying all knots or are they just sums of following the string thru the grommets without knots and tension pulling?

https://www.klipperusa.com/stringing/viewpattern.php?mfg=TWIL

Thanks!

I've also become accustomed to measuring the amount of string I need for the mains and crosses by using a technique similar to what's offered in that video in post #7. If you can get some cheap string and experiment with this measuring technique, you'll get used to measuring out exactly what you need for mains or crosses without wasting extra string or gambling on half a set coming up short in a dense pattern.

I string on a Gamma Progression II ELS and when I measure my mains, I'll only measure out the length of string that equals the number of mains. I measure one length by going from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock (like in the video), but in the case of let's say 18 mains, I only measure out 9 lengths, then double it back on itself to give me 18, plus about 8-12 inches to come out almost exactly right. Just be careful when doubling back to not fold the string against itself and put a kink in it.

Similar technique for measuring out the crosses - lengths are measured across the hoop from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock. If I have an odd number of crosses - let's say 19 - I'll measure out 9 lengths (9 doubled is 18), plus maybe a full length. That should give me enough for all the crosses, plus a little extra to reach the tensioner at both ends.

Even if my measurement is slightly short for either the mains or crosses and doesn't reach my tensioner, I have a Gamma starting clamp that lets me make a bridge.

Try your own measuring technique and pay attention to how much leftover string you have after tensioning the last mains or crosses. You should be able to get really good at measuring just what you need for either direction after only a couple of experiments. The racquet will eventually tell you exactly how much it needs.

 

[oldcity]

I didn't read all of these but...for a 2-piece string jobs: I measure the mains length for my 16x19 by using the middle of the racquet head and pulling the string lengthwise across 16 times, plus 2 more to account for length to the gripper. that always winds up being under 20', an 18 main is close to 20'. that eliminates waste on the mains so I don't come up short on the cross for any racquet. other ways might be better but that is what I do.