Stringing crosses

anubis

Hall of Fame
I've been stringing crosses the same for years. Recently it was suggested to me to change my technique, so I'm going to lay it out here and ask for advice. I personally don't care, I'm not married to either way. I just want to know which way is the "best" for a more consistent string bed.

When I string crosses, I use two clamps. I start off at the tip of the racquet and weave the first three rows, use a starting clamp, and pull tension on the first two rows and clamp on. I then weave the fourth row, pull tension on the third row and clamp on. I now have four rows weaved, with clamps on strings two and three. I then weave the fifth row, pull tension on fourth row and clamp off of the 2nd string and "leapfrog" to the fourth row.

So, at any given time, I always have two clamps on, and just "leapfrog" over the strings. I "walk" them up towards the throat of the frame until I'm done.

But my friend suggested another method: only have one clamp going at any given time. So in the above example, I would clamp on the 2nd row after pulling the initial tension. Weave fourth row, pull tension on third row, clamp off 2nd string and clamp onto third string. Weave fifth row, pull tension on fourth row, remove clamp from third string, move to fourth string.


What are your thoughts on this technique? Does it matter/make any difference?

Thanks!
 

Chotobaka

Hall of Fame
I weave the first two crosses before I tie off the outside mains and use a starting knot. I have been doing it this way since Jesus was a boy and have never had a reason to change. Since it is working, I try not to overthink it.
 

chrisingrassia

Professional
I always continue the use of two clamps on prior X and current X. However, I don't pull tension simultaneously on the top two crosses, I only ever pull tension on just one string.
 

esgee48

G.O.A.T.
If you use a DW or CP, you want to use only one clamp.
[1] Use a starting knot. weave the 1st 3 crosses.
{2] Go back and pull tension of cross on cross 1 to set the starting knot.
[3] Pull tension on cross 2 and wiggle crosses 1 and 2 to equalize the tension around the turns and to reduce inter string friction. If you have flying clamps, clamp 1 and 2. If using fixed clamp, just clamp cross 2.
[4] Weave cross 4.
[5] Tension cross 3 and remove clamp, then straighten/wiggle cross 3 to remove interstring friction. Then clamp cross 3.
[6] Repeat [4] and [5] moving towards the throat.

If you are afraid of screwing up, do 5 crosses, then do a double clamp so if there is a screwup, you only lose work back to the double clamp. OTW, a single clamp going down the crosses saves time and motion. You are afraid you will mess up which is why you clamp the previous 2 crosses.

If you use a LO, straighten the crosses before pulling tension. You may also want to pull crosses 1 and 2 twice before continuing down the frame. 3 cents.
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
I would only use a single clap if I had a long glide bar or an old single clamp Babolat

If you use flying clamp it's pretty much your call. On my eCP machine I have a dedicated left side and right side clamp and for most frames I use two clamps as you suggested.

No matter what, I doubt it will make much difference unless you use flying clamps that distort the strings.
 

anubis

Hall of Fame
If you use a DW or CP, you want to use only one clamp.
[1] Use a starting knot. weave the 1st 3 crosses.
{2] Go back and pull tension of cross on cross 1 to set the starting knot.
[3] Pull tension on cross 2 and wiggle crosses 1 and 2 to equalize the tension around the turns and to reduce inter string friction. If you have flying clamps, clamp 1 and 2. If using fixed clamp, just clamp cross 2.
[4] Weave cross 4.
[5] Tension cross 3 and remove clamp, then straighten/wiggle cross 3 to remove interstring friction. Then clamp cross 3.
[6] Repeat [4] and [5] moving towards the throat.

If you are afraid of screwing up, do 5 crosses, then do a double clamp so if there is a screwup, you only lose work back to the double clamp. OTW, a single clamp going down the crosses saves time and motion. You are afraid you will mess up which is why you clamp the previous 2 crosses.

If you use a LO, straighten the crosses before pulling tension. You may also want to pull crosses 1 and 2 twice before continuing down the frame. 3 cents.

Thanks everyone. I use a Gamma 4000, similar to the prince 1000 only with normal locking clamps as opposed to glide bar clamps.

So you recommend a starting knot instead of a starting clamp? I haven't tied one of those before... guess I'll have to study and practice that particular one.
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
Thanks everyone. I use a Gamma 4000, similar to the prince 1000 only with normal locking clamps as opposed to glide bar clamps.

So you recommend a starting knot instead of a starting clamp? I haven't tied one of those before... guess I'll have to study and practice that particular one.
Either starting clamp or Starting knot if fine. If you're used to using a starting clamp I'd stick with it. Rung in you top four crosses to start so it is more fluid. Put starting clamp on the top cross then tension and clamp the 2nd, 3rd, and top cross. Remove starting clamp and tie off. Continue to bottom using both clamps.
 

ElMagoElGato

Semi-Pro
I saw the second method OP mentioned at my club last week. The stringer said it'd generate higher DT though I doubted it. OP's friend might have wanted to follow the steps with glide bars. What was his reason behind it?
 

lidoazndiabloboi

Hall of Fame
Thanks everyone. I use a Gamma 4000, similar to the prince 1000 only with normal locking clamps as opposed to glide bar clamps.

So you recommend a starting knot instead of a starting clamp? I haven't tied one of those before... guess I'll have to study and practice that particular one.

It doesn't really make a difference whether you use both clamps or if you only have 1 clamp on while stringing the crosses, considering you have the normal swivel style clamps. I would recommend keeping both clamps as a safety, in case the string slips from the clamp or the clamp base moves, then you at least have the previous clamp there as back up. If you were to remove the previous clamp and something happens to the current string you are tensioning, then your whole stringjob can be compromised.

One of the reasons why someone would only have one clamp on is speed. As you hand is already in the clamp area to clamp off the current string, one could unclamp the previous string, and result in time being saved when tensioning the next string.
 

chrisb

Professional
If I string 1 piece my shortside leaves me 5 crosses down, and my long side finishes the rest up. I use one sometimes 2 sometimesDon`t feed second cross just straighten with fingers. 2 piece ((hybrids) Always start crosses top. do 2 and clamp.and continue down Stringer silent partner electric clamps stringways. By the way started stringing wood in the early 60s with awls, clamps are much easier and less destuctive
 

graycrait

Legend
NEOS 1000 stringer. I'll never do a video of my stringing:) But I have been doing a lot of poly stringing lately all two-piece, all for myself.

Before I cut out the strings I spray the bed with silicone with teflon and wipe it with a rag. Then cut the strings out, leaving some silicone w/teflon in and around the grommets. Quickly wipe the hoop down, then set in my NEOS 1000.

String the mains. I take a rag that I have sprayed silicon w/teflon and quickly wipe the mains when mains are tied off.

I tie off the cross at the top, weave the first and second cross, pull tension on the first cross, clamp and continue on. When finished spray the bed with silicon w/teflon, then leave it alone till the next day, then wipe the string bed down.


Today without trying to hurry through I did 4 of my rackets in a bit less than 90 minute from cutting out, measuring sets off the reel with little wastage, the whole silicone deal, through writing and sticking on the label. This was a sort of record for me with poly, using 16g in two rackets and 17g in the other two. 4 identical rackets using two gauges and 2 different tensions, 47 & 50lbs. I'm still looking for poly majick.

After doing some reading of LO vs eCP, in the future, I am going to pull tension on my crosses, hesitating a few seconds before locking out, just to see if I can "feel" the difference in the full bed.

Stringing is one thing, a secondary thing - I have real issues to overcome on the court.
 
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