Stringing time on an Ektelon Neos 1000?

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D

Deleted member 25923

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So I strung 3 racquets today on it. I didn't feel as if my time got cut by a lot. The crank helped, but I hated switching the clamps to the glidebar for crosses. Mounting was a lot faster than my SP Swing.

Maybe it was faster, but 3 racquets felt longer than it should've taken.


Will my time drop more as I get more comfy with it?
 

diredesire

Adjunct Moderator
your time will drop, I've been clocked at just under 11 minutes on a NEOS 1K. The machine is built for speed (IMO)!

Mounting is fast, and more importantly stays out of the way. Crank at a consistent, smooth rate, and DON'T worry about speed on the crank. Stay really consistent.

The clamps are a bit fiddly, but develop a system and stick with it, you'll start dropping the wasted movements, etc.

(For those of you interested in the speed aspect, I strung a Diablo XP OS w/ Lightning XX, not the hardest frame ;) This includes cut out/mount time.)
 

themitchmann

Hall of Fame
11 minutes including cut out and mounting is very impressive. My top speed is 14 minutes on a Prince CTS Synergy DB 26 MP...NOT including cut out and mounting.

Oh, with Syn Gut w Duraflex 16.
 
D

Deleted member 25923

Guest
Is this your new machine?

Oh, I wish. I just started work yesterday, and this was the machine my club uses.

your time will drop, I've been clocked at just under 11 minutes on a NEOS 1K. The machine is built for speed (IMO)!

Mounting is fast, and more importantly stays out of the way. Crank at a consistent, smooth rate, and DON'T worry about speed on the crank. Stay really consistent.

The clamps are a bit fiddly, but develop a system and stick with it, you'll start dropping the wasted movements, etc.

(For those of you interested in the speed aspect, I strung a Diablo XP OS w/ Lightning XX, not the hardest frame ;) This includes cut out/mount time.)

Good to know. I might just use the same glidebars the whole way through (unless i'm doing a one piece).

I just need to get faster. Also, what do I do if the glidebar isn't sliding so smoothly along the table?

considerably, it is a quick machine i can pull out 18ish minute jobs on it

Whoa that's fast. I hope I can do them within 30 mins soon.

11 minutes including cut out and mounting is very impressive. My top speed is 14 minutes on a Prince CTS Synergy DB 26 MP...NOT including cut out and mounting.

Oh, with Syn Gut w Duraflex 16.

Nice. I was using syn gut w/ duraflex 16 as well.
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
You will get faster. On average, a quality string job by an experienced stringer on a Neos 1000 should take around 20 minutes, depending on the racquet -- you can go faster (and I have) but you do risk burning the strings -- I suggest working on quality and consistency, not speed, and you will naturally get quicker.

As to the glidebars . . . first clean them with denatured or isopropyl alcohol and clean the inside of the clamps as well. Also clean the glide bar channels (i.e., the slots or track) and the slides as well. Residue build up in those areas and inhibits smooth movement. I actually wipe mine down after every few string jobs.

If the glide bars still don't slide, you can loosen the screws under the slides. Adjust the slides into the slots also the rails and retighten the screws. Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
 
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Deleted member 25923

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You will get faster. On average, a quality string job by an experienced stringer on a Neos 1000 should take around 20 minutes, depending on the racquet -- you can go faster (and I have) but you do risk burning the strings -- I suggest working on quality and consistency, not speed, and you will naturally get quicker.

As to the glidebars . . . first clean them with denatured or isopropyl alcohol and clean the inside of the clamps as well. Also clean the glide bar channels (i.e., the slots or track) and the slides as well. Residue build up in those areas and inhibits smooth movement. I actually wipe mine down after every few string jobs.

If the glide bars still don't slide, you can loosen the screws under the slides. Adjust the slides into the slots also the rails and retighten the screws. Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

Should I clean the channel the same way?
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
Yes. Q-tips work well on the channel (you will likely be shocked how much gunk you will clean out of there) Generally, clean everything you can.
 
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Deleted member 25923

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Yes. Q-tips work well on the channel (you will likely be shocked how much gunk you will clean out of there) Generally, clean everything you can.

Yea. Is there any advantage to the cross glidebars other than their usefulness on one pieces?
 
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Deleted member 25923

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Also, should there be any grease on those channels to help the bars slide around?
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
Yea. Is there any advantage to the cross glidebars other than their usefulness on one pieces?

Not really--I generally find them more of a bother. As to using grease--I would not recommend it. It should not be necessary--the machine is designed to be very smooth when clean.
 
D

Deleted member 25923

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Not really--I generally find them more of a bother. As to using grease--I would not recommend it. It should not be necessary--the machine is designed to be very smooth when clean.

Cool, i'm gonna use the q tip method and get some gunk out first.

I really like the ease of use, I just need to get proficient with it :D
 

diredesire

Adjunct Moderator
Oh, I wish. I just started work yesterday, and this was the machine my club uses.

Good to know. I might just use the same glidebars the whole way through (unless i'm doing a one piece).

I just need to get faster. Also, what do I do if the glidebar isn't sliding so smoothly along the table?

I like using the full bar on the crosses, the half bar(s) are kind of a PITA. Nice for weird patterns at times, but otherwise just stick with the full bar.

You will get faster. On average, a quality string job by an experienced stringer on a Neos 1000 should take around 20 minutes, depending on the racquet -- you can go faster (and I have) but you do risk burning the strings -- I suggest working on quality and consistency, not speed, and you will naturally get quicker.

As to the glidebars . . . first clean them with denatured or isopropyl alcohol and clean the inside of the clamps as well. Also clean the glide bar channels (i.e., the slots or track) and the slides as well. Residue build up in those areas and inhibits smooth movement. I actually wipe mine down after every few string jobs.

If the glide bars still don't slide, you can loosen the screws under the slides. Adjust the slides into the slots also the rails and retighten the screws. Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
Listen to MAX PLY, he knows what he's talking about ;)

Another tip: There are hex screws on the outside of the rails. Loosen these and slide the bars a little bit, it should loosen up well. (This is after cleaning, of course!) Once you have completed this task, you should put a little pressure down on the bar itself, to hold the side slides in a consistent plane. I notice a lot of stringers dropping the glide bar on the ground after finishing the mains, this often ruins the alignment of the parallel black slides that insert into the cut outs on the turn table. The hex screws on bottom can be used to micro-adjust the alignment, too, IIRC.

As far as lubricating (grease, etc), don't bother. It'll only end up all over your hands. If you have really nasty gunk in your bars, rails, cut outs, etc, use a little WD40, but make sure to clean it up afterwards. I only suggest WD40 because it acts as a good solvent. If you can get it out with iso.alcohol stick with that. Silicone spray is also excellent, and you only need to wipe it off, avoid lubing the bars, though.

Yea. Is there any advantage to the cross glidebars other than their usefulness on one pieces?
I don't ever see an absolute need for the cross glidebars, i just use a full.
 
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Deleted member 25923

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Sweet, I'll use both the full bars because I use a starting clamp.

One last question. For calibration, do I have to remove the casing of the crank? The manual kind of confused me. Also, is there a screw I adjust?
 

wally

Rookie
Sweet, I'll use both the full bars because I use a starting clamp.

One last question. For calibration, do I have to remove the casing of the crank? The manual kind of confused me. Also, is there a screw I adjust?

You do not have to remove the case to calibrate. There is a small hex screw that is accessible . If I remember correctly ist just under the gripper . It took me awhile to find it the first time. Use very small adjustments.
 
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Deleted member 25923

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You do not have to remove the case to calibrate. There is a small hex screw that is accessible . If I remember correctly ist just under the gripper . It took me awhile to find it the first time. Use very small adjustments.

hmm, I'll look around for it. Thanks.
 

iplaybetter

Hall of Fame
cleaning the chanels is critical as it having the flaps on the bars adjusted correctly, i also like the liquid teflon stuff they have on gss a little on the flaps is realy nice. i kinda overhauled the one is tring on and it was a huge difference
 

YULitle

Hall of Fame
Maybe this has been addressed, though I didn't see it. Be sure to use only one glide-clamp on the crosses. It's all you need. Two for mains.
 
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Deleted member 25923

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Maybe this has been addressed, though I didn't see it. Be sure to use only one glide-clamp on the crosses. It's all you need. Two for mains.
But I use the starting clamp, so shouldn't I have two at the beginning?
 

YULitle

Hall of Fame
But I use the starting clamp, so shouldn't I have two at the beginning?

Yeah, if you are using one clamp and using the starting clamp to alternate back and forth, then that's one thing. I would suggest that perhaps using two clamps for mains might be faster.
 
D

Deleted member 25923

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Yeah, if you are using one clamp and using the starting clamp to alternate back and forth, then that's one thing. I would suggest that perhaps using two clamps for mains might be faster.

Oh, yes I use two for the mains, but I meant for the crosses. Should I have two clamps at the start of the crosses because I use the starting clamp?
 

diredesire

Adjunct Moderator
No, it's not necessary. Once you finish the mains (on a two piece) you just tie off both sides and then slip both clamps on, rotate one and use a single clamp for the crosses.

On a one piece job, you'll tie one side off, tension the long side, and then remove both clamps, and then continue with one.

If you prefer, you can tension the long side, hold it with a starting clamp, release tension, and THEN remove both bars (when you hold it tensioned, your turn table is more or less "stuck" in a spot, and it might be awkward). You only need to do weird clamp work on non-standard patterns.
 
D

Deleted member 25923

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and it dint matter, notice i used one clamp

But how did you get the clamp off?

No, it's not necessary. Once you finish the mains (on a two piece) you just tie off both sides and then slip both clamps on, rotate one and use a single clamp for the crosses.

On a one piece job, you'll tie one side off, tension the long side, and then remove both clamps, and then continue with one.

If you prefer, you can tension the long side, hold it with a starting clamp, release tension, and THEN remove both bars (when you hold it tensioned, your turn table is more or less "stuck" in a spot, and it might be awkward). You only need to do weird clamp work on non-standard patterns.

I understand that.

My question is this:

I'm on my crosses. Say i'm at the 5th cross (number doesn't matter as long as it's not the first cross). I want to remove my starting clamp. How do I do that with one fixed clamp w/o losing all the tension in the crosses.

The only way I can visualize doing this would be:
-Start off with two glidebars and clamps on the crosses, and do as you would with swivel clamps OR slip on the second glidebar to hold tension on the first cross when you're ready to remove the starting clamp.
-Have a spare starting clamp ready. Apply first starting clamp, do all of your crosses, and tie off (this is where the spare starting clamp comes in handy), go back up, tension first cross, remove starting clamp, clamp with fixed clamp, tie off.


Sorry if i'm not being clear or if I am misunderstanding.
 

diredesire

Adjunct Moderator
Oh, I was the one misunderstanding ;)

In that case, if you don't mind, just finish your crosses and then tie off the top, there's no real reason to tie it off soon after you start the crosses besides the risk of accidentally bumping your clamp off and losing your tension.

You could alternately:

Tension the first cross while using your starting clamp, tension a few crosses down, then while the string is in your tensioner, clamp the very first cross (near the starting clamp), release the starting clamp, and then put it on the currently tensioned string, go back, re-tension, re-clamp (optional) and then tie off.

This is a little bit harsher than waiting, since you have some back-tension on your starting clamp. I would personally just string all the crosses and then come back for the top string.
 

iplaybetter

Hall of Fame
Oh, I was the one misunderstanding ;)

In that case, if you don't mind, just finish your crosses and then tie off the top, there's no real reason to tie it off soon after you start the crosses besides the risk of accidentally bumping your clamp off and losing your tension.

i also miss understood, just finish em up, also just a side note: on a big chunk of frames with a big chunk of string i believe the starting knot works as well or better
 
Last edited:

Clintspin

Professional
I think you could solve your one clamp problem in two ways. I have two starting clamps and use one to hold what ever cross I have just pulled while I go back and re-pull the first cross and release the first starting clamp. Then I can go back and re-pull the 5th cross (as you used as an example) and release the second starting clamp and re-clamp with your fixed clamp. You could also use a flying clamp on your current cross while going back to the first one. Does that make any sense to you?

How do you Neos owners clean your tension head jaws?
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
How do you Neos owners clean your tension head jaws?

Two methods work pretty well. Soak a white cotton shoe lace in alcohol and run it through back and forth. You can do the same with soft pipe cleaners as well. Occassionally I also use an alcohol soaked tooth brush in addition just for some soft abrasion.
 

iplaybetter

Hall of Fame
the other trick worth remembering is to flip the clamp as you get to the bottom of the crosses, you do this by putting the clamp on a cross and then moving the bar to the other side of the cross and then clamping it
 

YULitle

Hall of Fame
the other trick worth remembering is to flip the clamp as you get to the bottom of the crosses, you do this by putting the clamp on a cross and then moving the bar to the other side of the cross and then clamping it

Yes, it's good to remember to do this before you NEED TO. Makes the toggle easier.
 

diredesire

Adjunct Moderator
Ooh, that is a good one. I tend to make the switch as early as possible. I'm kind of OCD when it comes to repeatability.
 
D

Deleted member 25923

Guest
Oh, I was the one misunderstanding ;)

In that case, if you don't mind, just finish your crosses and then tie off the top, there's no real reason to tie it off soon after you start the crosses besides the risk of accidentally bumping your clamp off and losing your tension.

You could alternately:

Tension the first cross while using your starting clamp, tension a few crosses down, then while the string is in your tensioner, clamp the very first cross (near the starting clamp), release the starting clamp, and then put it on the currently tensioned string, go back, re-tension, re-clamp (optional) and then tie off.

This is a little bit harsher than waiting, since you have some back-tension on your starting clamp. I would personally just string all the crosses and then come back for the top string.

I see. So if I only have one starting clamp, would the two clamps at the start of crosses work?

the other trick worth remembering is to flip the clamp as you get to the bottom of the crosses, you do this by putting the clamp on a cross and then moving the bar to the other side of the cross and then clamping it

By flipping it, do you mean having the clamp tilt in the other direction, or physically remove the glidebar from the track? If it's the former, then yea, I know what you're talking about.
 

1012007

Hall of Fame
I have a question: with cranks, as they aren't constant pull, does the speed of the pull affect the tension and the overall string bed stiffness??
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
Interesting question. I suppose it would as a slower pull might stretch the string a bit more than a quick pull. Not sure how huge a deal it is--as has been stated many times on this board, the most important thing is consistency--I, for instance, make sure that the tension gripper is always approximately the same distance from the racquet head (and generally as close as possiible to the frame) on every pull and make a smooth pull--but I am trying to make every string job the same. If I were shooting for speed I suspect I would get a different result--a scientist could probably measure the difference and a good player would likely "feel" a difference. Likewise, with a constant pull, I suspect the time it takes to lock the string in the clamp would be a similar-affecting variable.
 

diredesire

Adjunct Moderator
I see. So if I only have one starting clamp, would the two clamps at the start of crosses work?



By flipping it, do you mean having the clamp tilt in the other direction, or physically remove the glidebar from the track? If it's the former, then yea, I know what you're talking about.
Is there a specific problem with leaving the starting clamp on until the end of the crosses? Yes, you COULD have two clamps on the string bed if you wanted to, but IMHO it's more of a hassle than it's worth. I would just leave the starting clamp on (and in the upwards orientation, to stay out of the way of the clamps).

Yes, we're talking about changing the way the clamp is angled.

I have a question: with cranks, as they aren't constant pull, does the speed of the pull affect the tension and the overall string bed stiffness??
Sure, but it depends on the string(s), too. Some people will complain about certain strings being especially stretchy (I recently saw a mention of Forten Sweet, for example). If you string on a constant pull, you'll notice that it will continue to elongate over the course of at least 5 or so seconds (to some degree). If you were to really crank this string fast, it would lock out, but it would continue to relax after this lock out, and the final tension will probably be lower than expected. If you start varying this to an extreme, and pulled tension over the course of 10 seconds, the string is able to relax BEFORE the lock out occurs, which means the lock out is happening later than it would have if you were to crank it 'til lock very quickly.

Hope that makes sense.

Edit:

If you are to look at this in the other direction, and compare kevlar, for instance, I would imagine the differences to be relatively minor.
 
D

Deleted member 25923

Guest
Is there a specific problem with leaving the starting clamp on until the end of the crosses? Yes, you COULD have two clamps on the string bed if you wanted to, but IMHO it's more of a hassle than it's worth. I would just leave the starting clamp on (and in the upwards orientation, to stay out of the way of the clamps).

Yes, we're talking about changing the way the clamp is angled.


Sure, but it depends on the string(s), too. Some people will complain about certain strings being especially stretchy (I recently saw a mention of Forten Sweet, for example). If you string on a constant pull, you'll notice that it will continue to elongate over the course of at least 5 or so seconds (to some degree). If you were to really crank this string fast, it would lock out, but it would continue to relax after this lock out, and the final tension will probably be lower than expected. If you start varying this to an extreme, and pulled tension over the course of 10 seconds, the string is able to relax BEFORE the lock out occurs, which means the lock out is happening later than it would have if you were to crank it 'til lock very quickly.

Hope that makes sense.

Edit:

If you are to look at this in the other direction, and compare kevlar, for instance, I would imagine the differences to be relatively minor.

No Problem with leaving it on until the end. But how would I tie off if my starting clamp is used.

Unless I tension the first cross, remove starting clamp, go tie off last cross, and then come back and clamp, tie off.
 

diredesire

Adjunct Moderator
If you leave the starting clamp at the tip, you would finish your crosses. You'll have the single clamp free:

Tension the last cross, clamp it off, tie it off.

Voila: clamp free!

Go back to the tip, re-tension, clamp with the now-freed clamp, and then tie off.

Am i misunderstanding the situation?
 
D

Deleted member 25923

Guest
If you leave the starting clamp at the tip, you would finish your crosses. You'll have the single clamp free:

Tension the last cross, clamp it off, tie it off.

Voila: clamp free!

Go back to the tip, re-tension, clamp with the now-freed clamp, and then tie off.

Am i misunderstanding the situation?

Maybe. i wouldn't be able to tie off that final cross to free up the clamp unless I have a spare starting clamp, or I use a pair of pliers. The starting clamp I do have is at the top cross.
 
When I use the Neos 1000 it never takes me more tha 15 minutes... The only complaint I have with the machine is that ATW patterns are a pain w/ the glidebars. But the machine is a workhorse!
 
D

Deleted member 25923

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When I use the Neos 1000 it never takes me more tha 15 minutes... The only complaint I have with the machine is that ATW patterns are a pain w/ the glidebars. But the machine is a workhorse!

Which ATW patterns pain you?
 

diredesire

Adjunct Moderator
Maybe. i wouldn't be able to tie off that final cross to free up the clamp unless I have a spare starting clamp, or I use a pair of pliers. The starting clamp I do have is at the top cross.

Are you saying you can't tie the knot because you use your starting clamp to pull the string? Just use some pliers! Or your hands ;)

Starting clamps are a bonus on knot tying, not a necessity ;)

If I'm still mis-understanding this, let me know...
 

Zhou

Hall of Fame
Are you saying you can't tie the knot because you use your starting clamp to pull the string? Just use some pliers! Or your hands ;)

Starting clamps are a bonus on knot tying, not a necessity ;)

If I'm still mis-understanding this, let me know...

How about this. Use a starting clamp all the way through then on the last cross come back and take the 2nd glide bar and add it to clamp the first cross. Then tie off the 1st cross and finally finish with the last cross.

Just a thought.
 
D

Deleted member 25923

Guest
Are you saying you can't tie the knot because you use your starting clamp to pull the string? Just use some pliers! Or your hands ;)

Starting clamps are a bonus on knot tying, not a necessity ;)

If I'm still mis-understanding this, let me know...

Nope, that was the exact issue I was having.

How about this. Use a starting clamp all the way through then on the last cross come back and take the 2nd glide bar and add it to clamp the first cross. Then tie off the 1st cross and finally finish with the last cross.

Just a thought.

That's why I asked if I should use two glidebars at the beginning of the crosses....
 

diredesire

Adjunct Moderator
Nope, that was the exact issue I was having.



That's why I asked if I should use two glidebars at the beginning of the crosses....

If that's the case, just use pliers. If you feel like you aren't getting enough grip, wrap the string around the pliers before clamping down on 'em. Not much else you can do, but IMO, it would be more efficient to just tie with pliers. If you do want to use a second glide bar at the beginning or end, feel free, but it's a hassle and a waste of time, especially when trying to wedge it in there with another...
 
D

Deleted member 25923

Guest
If that's the case, just use pliers. If you feel like you aren't getting enough grip, wrap the string around the pliers before clamping down on 'em. Not much else you can do, but IMO, it would be more efficient to just tie with pliers. If you do want to use a second glide bar at the beginning or end, feel free, but it's a hassle and a waste of time, especially when trying to wedge it in there with another...

I see. Thanks for the help DD!
 
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