You're misunderstanding. I said use one glide bar all the way through then add the second glide bar at the end to remove the starting clamp.
You're misunderstanding. I said use one glide bar all the way through then add the second glide bar at the end to remove the starting clamp.
D
Deleted member 25923
Guest
Same concept, different time in the stringing process. I like to get the starting clamp removed early on.
prestigeprolover
New User
this may be a dumb question, but does the prince neos 1000 clamps fit on the older ektelon model h glide bars?
D
Deleted member 25923
Guest
They might. I'm pretty sure the Neos and Ektelon H have very similar features, so it's worth a try. Ask Max Ply though, he knows his Prince/Ektelon stuff!
iplaybetter
Hall of Fame
i do wish they had some texture tho
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
Really? Are you having some slippage issues? With all sorts of string or just some? If the normal alcohol is not working to keep them clean (make sure the bars and the inside of the clamp where it grips the bars are clean too--not just the teeth end of the clamp) enough you could try a cleaning stone (I think gamma has them). Truthfully, I have never had much of a problem with slippage.
diredesire
Adjunct Moderator
I see the most issues on NEOS clamps on the very first pull. If you have a starting clamp to "back up" the initial pull, it should be cake from there. However, I wouldn't mind seeing a slight, slight built in texture (not on the order of diamond dusting, though). It would allow a lower clamping force...
iplaybetter
Hall of Fame
not to much but enough, but at work i do a lot of mutli and they can be a real bugger especially at high tension
l_gonzalez
Professional
Some very good comments here by the way. I don't understand the obsession with using a starting clamp for the crosses, i used to do it because i thought "hey, i just bought a starting clamp, might as well use it"
I think a bulky starting knot is the way to go, that way you don't have the starting clamp or the excess string bothering you as the racquet turns, and you don't have to come back to the top to tie it off at the end.
I'm having a few slippage issues at the moment, not that the string slips throught the clamp teeth, but that the clamp slips back along the bar a little too much. I'll give the machine a good clean and see if that sorts it.
Oh yeah, and how do you adjust the tensioner? At the moment it's leaving quite a significant mark on my strings, even though i mostly string 17 and 18 gauge...
I think a bulky starting knot is the way to go, that way you don't have the starting clamp or the excess string bothering you as the racquet turns, and you don't have to come back to the top to tie it off at the end.
I'm having a few slippage issues at the moment, not that the string slips throught the clamp teeth, but that the clamp slips back along the bar a little too much. I'll give the machine a good clean and see if that sorts it.
Oh yeah, and how do you adjust the tensioner? At the moment it's leaving quite a significant mark on my strings, even though i mostly string 17 and 18 gauge...
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
I know I sound like a broken record on this one but keeping the machine clean is key. The clamp's string holding ability, in part, depends on its ability to grab the glide bar as well. That's why I also clean the glide bars them selves and the inside of the clamp where it grabs the bar. I am always surprised about how much grime is there even after just a few string jobs--that's also why in never use any sort or lubricant on the bars or on the glide bar track.
As for the gripping ability of the tension head, on both the Neos 1000 and the Ektelon H, there is a little screw behind the tension head. To tighten the tension head's gripping ability, turn counterclockwise--to loosen, turn clockwise (see p. 12 of the Ektelon manual and p. 22 of the Prince manual). Basically, what you want is the minimum amount of pressure needed to grip the string--so, again, make sure the jaws are clean (there's that word again) by using a alcohol soaked cotton shoe string and/or a long bristled toothbrush to clean that area out and adjust the screw accordingly. Good luck.
As for the gripping ability of the tension head, on both the Neos 1000 and the Ektelon H, there is a little screw behind the tension head. To tighten the tension head's gripping ability, turn counterclockwise--to loosen, turn clockwise (see p. 12 of the Ektelon manual and p. 22 of the Prince manual). Basically, what you want is the minimum amount of pressure needed to grip the string--so, again, make sure the jaws are clean (there's that word again) by using a alcohol soaked cotton shoe string and/or a long bristled toothbrush to clean that area out and adjust the screw accordingly. Good luck.
D
Deleted member 25923
Guest
Ditto. This is where they slip for me.
l_gonzalez
Professional
Thanks very much mate, i created my own problems because i haven't cleaned it in a while, so there you go!
I found the screw on the tension head, thanks!
prestigeprolover
New User
MAX PLY - thank you for all the answers. they've been so informative.
i have another simple question for you guys. when you clamp the string, are the clamps vertical or are they at an angle?
i have another simple question for you guys. when you clamp the string, are the clamps vertical or are they at an angle?
prestigeprolover
New User
another problem i have is that when i release tension, the clamps and glide bars move... the string that is clamped moves up and pulls the clamp and glide bar up.
do i need to secure the 4 hex screws under the rail bars? that would help in the glide bar not moving up but if i secure them, it won't slide as easily?
do i need to secure the 4 hex screws under the rail bars? that would help in the glide bar not moving up but if i secure them, it won't slide as easily?
D
Deleted member 25923
Guest
it's drawback I believe. It's perfectly normal.
As for the clamp angles, as you get farther away from the middle, the clamp will be more angled. It's more vertical on the first couple of mains.
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
The clamps should generally be vertical. Interestingly, the Ektelon manual states that they should be vertical while the Neos 1000 manual contemplates a slight angle so as a practical matter, vertical to a very slight angle should be fine. I will tell you that I generally keep mine vertical.
As to the sliding issue, your clamps and glide bars should not move up. So I suggest cleaning the slides and the track with alcohol (I find Q-tips to be very effective in cleaning the track). You should tighten the hexbolts on the glides. If, after cleaning, they still don't slide smoothly, you can loosen the hexbolts under the glides ever so slightly but not so much that the bar moves up as you described. If still not sliding properly I suppose you could try a little bit of a mild lubricant (the lubricant would be a last resort for me). Let me know how it works out and if it still doesn't work out, maybe we can figure something else out.
As to the sliding issue, your clamps and glide bars should not move up. So I suggest cleaning the slides and the track with alcohol (I find Q-tips to be very effective in cleaning the track). You should tighten the hexbolts on the glides. If, after cleaning, they still don't slide smoothly, you can loosen the hexbolts under the glides ever so slightly but not so much that the bar moves up as you described. If still not sliding properly I suppose you could try a little bit of a mild lubricant (the lubricant would be a last resort for me). Let me know how it works out and if it still doesn't work out, maybe we can figure something else out.
prestigeprolover
New User
Mansewerz + MAX PLY - you guys rock!!! i'll try your suggestions and report back.
D
Deleted member 25923
Guest
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
Hopefully, the suggestions will be helpful. Glad to contribute.
D
Deleted member 25923
Guest
Max, the q-tips helped. I didn't use alcohol with it, and it seemed to make the crosses smoother.
And as to Zhou, yes your suggestion was better than my original idea for the crosses. I now understand what DD meant by "wedging" the glidebars in. I'll need to probably get around 3/4 way done w/ crosses before putting the second glidebar in.
Next time, i'm gonna bring some alcohol with and give the machine a nice clean down.
I
ichibanosaru
Guest
I agree that keeping the machine clean and lubricated is essential. When doing two or more of the same racquet, it is also a good idea to use the same glidebar on the crosses to ensure consistent tension.
As mentioned in other posts, the addition of the Wise 2086 tension head with the Prince Neos 1000 is a great combination (in my opinion but maybe not for everybody).
What would Fedace say? :-?
As mentioned in other posts, the addition of the Wise 2086 tension head with the Prince Neos 1000 is a great combination (in my opinion but maybe not for everybody).
What would Fedace say? :-?
D
Deleted member 25923
Guest
"What's a wise 2086? Is it like a smarter magic 8 ball?"
l_gonzalez
Professional
I was wondering about the Wise 2086 actually. If anyone has that setup at the moment your thoughts and comments would be very much appreciated.
prestigeprolover
New User
i cleaned the rails with rubbing alcohol and adjusted the glide bars to the lowest setting because my clamps werent quite vertical before. all this has fixed my problems. the glide bars move much much smoother now and the clamps are somewhat more vertical now. i'm very happy =) thanks again Mansewerz and MAX PLY
i had one more question... it might be silly. but do you have to do anything to the tension setting when you're finished? so for example, if i was stringing at 60 pounds and i finished, should i set the tension back to the lowest tension (10 pounds on the ektelon h)? should i just leave it at 60 pounds? what is better for the machine?
i had one more question... it might be silly. but do you have to do anything to the tension setting when you're finished? so for example, if i was stringing at 60 pounds and i finished, should i set the tension back to the lowest tension (10 pounds on the ektelon h)? should i just leave it at 60 pounds? what is better for the machine?
YULitle
Hall of Fame
The USRSA suggests that you dial it down to nothing.
D
Deleted member 25923
Guest
haha, It was my imitation of Fedace.
Hmm, I've heard that takes strain off of the spring, but some machines don't require it.
EDIT: YULitle beat me to it. So yea, set it to 0
prestigeprolover
New User
thanks for the info guys! the lowest setting is 10 pounds for me so i'll set it to that.
yulitle - thanks for your videos on youtube. the ektelon manual wasn't very good so i learned how to string completely from your videos. they were awesome!
yulitle - thanks for your videos on youtube. the ektelon manual wasn't very good so i learned how to string completely from your videos. they were awesome!
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
I am glad all worked out. As you saw from the other responses, many reccomend you set it to the lowest tension. In reality, I have never been convinced it made much difference but I do lower the tension as well in between uses.
I am bumping this thread up because I have a couple of questions. I recently cleaned my Neos using rubbing alcohol and have noticed that the glide bars are actually moving less smoothly than before. Any ideas there?
Also I pulled clamps off and cleaned inside of clamps and glide bar. Here is a stupid question. If the glide bar is off the machine and I tighten the clamp, I can still slide it along the bar. This is normal right? Only when I have string in it will it effectively clamp the glide bar. Am I right in this assumption or are my clamps screwed up. I haven't notice any slipping, and I was using a marker to test it by each clamp on a string job.
Finally, on clamp tightening. I took the approach that I'd rather be a tad too tight than too loose. I've been stringing alot of 17 gauge poly (Proline II, Cyberflash, Cyberblue, Big Ace), and my clamps were leaving the slightest indentation. I recently strung up a Gosen Micro 16g synthetic and I thought I would have definitely had to loosen the clamps a bit. That was not the case however. It left minimal marks on the strings, and it was the same tightness as I do it for the polys. Am I missing something here? I check for clamp slippage with a marker every now and then, and haven't noticed any.
Finally, my clamps are not very perpendicular. The bars are in the middle position on the glide bar. Should I move them to the lower position? Also, one of my glide bars feels slightly loose on the rails. I can shake it slightly. I notice hat on that bar when I clamp then release string from tension head, it shifts ever so slightly and I am sure that is resulting in slight tension loss. What is the easiest way to fix that?
Thanks for the informative thread.
Also I pulled clamps off and cleaned inside of clamps and glide bar. Here is a stupid question. If the glide bar is off the machine and I tighten the clamp, I can still slide it along the bar. This is normal right? Only when I have string in it will it effectively clamp the glide bar. Am I right in this assumption or are my clamps screwed up. I haven't notice any slipping, and I was using a marker to test it by each clamp on a string job.
Finally, on clamp tightening. I took the approach that I'd rather be a tad too tight than too loose. I've been stringing alot of 17 gauge poly (Proline II, Cyberflash, Cyberblue, Big Ace), and my clamps were leaving the slightest indentation. I recently strung up a Gosen Micro 16g synthetic and I thought I would have definitely had to loosen the clamps a bit. That was not the case however. It left minimal marks on the strings, and it was the same tightness as I do it for the polys. Am I missing something here? I check for clamp slippage with a marker every now and then, and haven't noticed any.
Finally, my clamps are not very perpendicular. The bars are in the middle position on the glide bar. Should I move them to the lower position? Also, one of my glide bars feels slightly loose on the rails. I can shake it slightly. I notice hat on that bar when I clamp then release string from tension head, it shifts ever so slightly and I am sure that is resulting in slight tension loss. What is the easiest way to fix that?
Thanks for the informative thread.
iplaybetter
Hall of Fame
if you look on the paddles that slide int he grove you should notice two bolts, by loosening and adjusting them you can solve most of your problems as it relates to sliding smoothness
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
I am surprised that you think your glide bars slide less easy after cleaning. In any event, as iplaybetter stated, you can loosen the screws under the slides. Adjust the slides into the slots (i.e., the glide bar channels) along the rails and retighten (but not too tight).
Assuming it is not holding string, yes, your clamp, when closed, will still slide along the glide bar -- however, it shouldn't slide to easily (that is, you do have to push it a bit -- it should not slide as easily as if it were open).
I try to keep my clamps as loose as possible so as to not let the string slide and not to leave marks--minimal marks or ghosting should not be a problem. It is normal to have to adjust your clamps to different strings and gauges.
My clamps are typically perpendicular but only adjust the glide bar position if you feel you need to. You also mention the loose feeling on the rails yet you mentioned you were having trouble sliding the bars--I am perplexed. Try adjusting as mentioned above and see if you still have the problem. Good Luck.
Assuming it is not holding string, yes, your clamp, when closed, will still slide along the glide bar -- however, it shouldn't slide to easily (that is, you do have to push it a bit -- it should not slide as easily as if it were open).
I try to keep my clamps as loose as possible so as to not let the string slide and not to leave marks--minimal marks or ghosting should not be a problem. It is normal to have to adjust your clamps to different strings and gauges.
My clamps are typically perpendicular but only adjust the glide bar position if you feel you need to. You also mention the loose feeling on the rails yet you mentioned you were having trouble sliding the bars--I am perplexed. Try adjusting as mentioned above and see if you still have the problem. Good Luck.
diredesire
Adjunct Moderator
Depends how much, anything under $600 is a sweet deal IMO, for one in really good shape $850 isn't out of the question.
iplaybetter
Hall of Fame
They are workhorses, and earlier incarnations from 20+ years ago(i think) are still going strong. 600-700 is a great deal, and anything under is a steal.
And just again, I think of them in only the highest respect. They are great machines.
I'm not sure I was clear before. After cleaning, the glide bars on the rails seemed a bit tacky, I guess is the best word to use. Whereas before it moved very smoothly along the rail, now it is a little jerky. This is independent from the shifting of the bar. If I put the glide on the rails, the actual bar should be at a 90 degree angle to the rails that it is sitting in. When I am stringing, when I release the tension head after I've clamped, the whole glide bar slightly shifts from 90 degrees, then pops back. It is ever so slight. So I think the bar needs to be more snug to the rails. I tried using an allen wrench to move the two screws/bolts underneath each side of the glide bar, but they will not budge.
MAX PLY
Hall of Fame
Did you clean the glide bar channel as well?--Q-tips work well for that (I am assuming you also used alcohol for cleaning--household cleaners are not a good idea). It does appear that maybe the slides are not properly adjusted, given both of your problems. If it were me, I would try to find a way to loosen those screws--in fact I would take the whole glide bar apart, clean it really well and reassemble it (see also, p. 23 of the Neos manual (similar to p. 11 of the Ektelon H manual))--if you cannot loosen the screws, maybe you should spray some WD-40 on them to loosen them (I hate using lubricants on the machine but since you will be cleaning everything anyway, it should be ok in this situation). Sorry, this is all I can think of based on your descriptions.
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