I am sorry to tell that it is not likely that we will produce the MS200 again.
Can you give guidelines to "update" older clamps?
This happens (rarely) to me when stringing the last 3 crosses.
Since I've owned the machine I've been stringing my racquets with the Ms and Xs at the same tension or doing hybrids where I might be stringing the Xs 2-3lbs lower than the mains. No changes in tension recently that would line up with the bridge sliding.
Could well be.
When using the stringlab 2, it is possible to convert the dt value with an ERT300 disk ?????
Hello @BravoRed691
It is good to share issues because we can respond and advise then:
1) Clamping Hook Slippage? “
I assume this happens when stringing the crosses. Yes
It is not the intention of the “clamp down hooks” to prevent the racquet from slipping, They are “only” meant to keep the racquet behind the main supports. The racket at the throat can slip completely off the "clamp down hooks" requiring the racket to be completely restrung.
So do not overtighten them.
The racquet slips when there is not enough pressure between the racquet and the supports. This can happen when the tension on the crosses is too high so that the racquet head becomes longer and moves away from the supports. Does this mean there are some tensions that I will not be able achieve on certain rackets? I am stringing in the mid 50 lbs.
Adjust the racquet support so that there is minimum pressure between the frame and the supports and this should be the same after stringing.
Check if the racquet remains in contact with the supports while stringing the crosses if not lower the tension on the crosses. It indeed does not remain in contact with the throught side supports.
Do you use our Tension advisor to calculate the tensions? Not yet but i will consult it. Does this mean there are some tension that I will not be able to achieve on certain rackets? I am stringing in the mid 50 lbs range.
Are the friction pads still in good condition? My model has these rubber strips. Does it function the same as the friction pads?
2) Automatic Lock System:
Can you check if the lock still works well when you wait 10 seconds before you lower the lever after taking the string out. I did not see an significant difference after waiting 10 secs before lowering the lever after taking the string out.
If that works well the tension head “springs back” too slow and needs lubrication:
Add some grease on the pull rod where it passes through the U-shaped casting and under the nylon washer on the disc. I can still try this. Is there a type of grease that is recommended?
3) Tension Head Pin:
When the shaft of the tensioner moves out you only have to tighten the locking screw in the disc. This works! Though the locking screw will still work itself loose. Not a big issuge. Thanks!
Misc
1) I somehow lost one of the two, small, flanking/side pins, just under the clamping teeth.
We will be happy to send you some pins it is easy to insert them. Yes, please, i would be happy to pay for shipping to receive the proper part. I noticed this part is not shown in the manual under "Overhaul of a Stringway Clamp."
2) The Single Action clamps do not glide equally well on the guide rails/track.
Because this is only a shaft and a hole there is no reason that this changes in time by using it.
Take care that everything is clean and dry also the inside of the holes.
Polish the shafts with Scotch Brite this will improve the locking and moving around. There is a hex screw under/in the base of the clamping apparatus that goes over/around the glidebar that has come loose. Tightenin this helped a bit. There is still a difference in the ease of gliding between the two clamps but it has been improved and I think the difference is acceptable. And there is probably a range of tolerances to be expected when they machined the glide bar and the base of the clamps.
I was hoping to show how my tension head is having trouble locking well into the starting position. The "Disc S10" barely catches the locking bar. A couple of times, it missed the locking bar completely and the lever with the weight would crash down; hopefully no damage was caused. My walkaround has been to manually pull up or hold the locking bar's lever/handle on every single lowering of the bar after releasing the string from the gripper. I'm so used to doing this now that i dont think about it but i think it's costing me a few seconds on every string and it takes away from stringing experience.
Thank you, Fred. I think I will need to try this solution again. After I tried to push the locking bar upwards like in the picture, it seems like the issue is / could be solved. The disc contacts the locking bar more. However, after the first pull, the issue returns with the disc catching the locking bar only a little. I also now notice that there is a "small bump" / protrusion on the curvature of the disc, perhaps inhibiting the disc from returning back into the locking position fully? Or maybe the bolt which holds the release bar is more damaged than originally expected? Either way, luckily, I can still manually manipulate the release knob to push raise / push the locking bar up towards the disc.Hello @BravoRed691
This is a clear picture showing the clear problem.
In the good situation the height of the locking surface between the disc and the locking bar should be 5 to 6 mm.
In your case the locking bar does not move up far enough to reach that situation.
The reason for this is probably that the bolt which holds the release button is bent. This can happen on older machines when the string brakes and the weight drops down.
On newer machines there is an end stop which catches the tension head
These pictures shows how to bend the bolt back without change of braking:
Thanks for this as well. The shaft appears to be fixed fairly securely. There is some movement/play back and forth but it's minimal and does not seem to be enough to allow the turntable to tilt / wobble as much as it currently is. Regardless, I adjusted mutter 2 and 3 and was able to secure the shaft even more firmly. The movement of the shaft was reduced even more.@ BravoRed691
Check if the shaft is moving in the frame.
I will get back with you after dinner showing how to solve this it is easy:
On the non Concorde machine the shaft is fixed with the main screw and the nuts (mutter) 1 and 2.
If the shaft is not fixed well unscrew nut 3 a little.
Tighten nut 2 firmly.
Tighten nut 3 a little less tight.
Make sure the the half sliding bearing is pushed well into the frame.
The nylon bush on the screw is the table stop it prevents the table from hitting the tension unit
ALL ML100's OUT OF STOCK
I don't know what you mean, but 360 degrees rotation is impossible on a Stringway (and I think on any dropweight)
You have 360 with the bar down, like on a GAMMA X-6FC, and bar down is actually a really convenient way to use a dropweightI don't know what you mean, but 360 degrees rotation is impossible on a Stringway (and I think on any dropweight)
Edit: without a mounted frame it is possible of course
