Power Player
Bionic Poster
I do it the same way I just described except I pull and clamp on the throat side and pull under the throat.
I do it the same way I just described except I pull and clamp on the throat side and pull under the throat.
If the string starting to throat, pull from the head, if the strings start in the head pull from the throatThat’s correct. No 360 rotation on my machine.
Knowing that, and what it entails, how would you go about starting mains on the Stringway?
Thanks for the info on Pirate Ship...never heard of it, sounds interesting! Definitely trying for a local sale first, but have been surprised at the lack of interest from some relatively decent players in the area. I would have thought there would be a bit more interest in maintaining their own racquets and maybe even making a couple of bucks stringing for others.I bought mine on here like 10 years ago through a contact. I still use mine so it’s been great. If I was to sell it I would probably try locally first because its such a heavy item to ship.
Payment wise most ppl here seem to prefer paypal. Shipping, you could use pirate ship to save a substantial amount.
Thanks for the info on Pirate Ship...never heard of it, sounds interesting! Definitely trying for a local sale first, but have been surprised at the lack of interest from some relatively decent players in the area. I would have thought there would be a bit more interest in maintaining their own racquets and maybe even making a couple of bucks stringing for others.
Thanks for the info on Pirate Ship...never heard of it, sounds interesting! Definitely trying for a local sale first, but have been surprised at the lack of interest from some relatively decent players in the area. I would have thought there would be a bit more interest in maintaining their own racquets and maybe even making a couple of bucks stringing for others.
Good point! Also, I've seen the glazed over look in the eyes as I'm trying to explain the benefits of a Stringway drop weight over the Klipper or X-2 at about half the cost. Thanks for your input!Better luck listing on TW IMO. The Stringway is a niche machine....given it's MSRP someone looking for a used machine will be drawn to a crank vs the Stringway unless they really have done their research. It's really for someone who wants accurate portability.
We are interested in your answer to this question:Are there wear parts on this machine to check from time to time?
Fred is a mechanic genius and I wish I had just a tiny bit of his ability…..Just wanted to write a quick post in praise of Fred and his machines:
I had a weird issue with my ms200 which I bought used and is probably 20 years old. Fred was amazingly patient and must have answered about 15-20 emails from me. We eventually got to the bottom of the issue and the machine is working tip top again. Plus I got a real appreciation for the quality of the engineering in these machines when stripping it down to give it all a clean.
I can’t imagine you’d get this level of service for a 20 year old machine from any other company. Really impressed. Thanks Fred.
Can’t recommend Stringway highly enough.
I still hope to attain one...one of these days, and use my Stringway Triple/Double flying clamps. Machine seems so streamlined and simple.DEFECT MS200
We got a question this morning about a used MS200 on **** this morning.
The machine is defect and the question is if it “repairable”?
The answer is:
Yes it is repairable. Not many parts on the MS200 can go wrong.
Our advise is: Always ask what the defect is and contact us so that we can say what we can do.
We do not make the machine anymore but we still have some parts left.
This pictures shows the simplicity of the system.
Hi friend I know this is an oldddd post but do you still have you ms200tt I’d like to buy itNo competitor discussion, please.
Add me to the club, I retired my Laserfibre MS200TT a few years back. It now lies with my good buddy - brownbearfalling (actually his brother, but they use the same login).
Where are you locatedAnyone interested in buying an almost new stringway machine (ML100-TL92 with tilt base and the stringing spreaders)? i bought it for my son 2 years ago as he was playing high school tennis and i loved stringing when i played tennis in college. we’ve maybe strung a dozen racquets and he’s not playing in college.
Where are you located
Oh wow way too far from me but thank youBozeman, MT
welcome to the clubWell, I can be added to the club! Got my hands on a secondhand ML100 with double flying clamps here in the NL, so looking forward to my first steps in stringing! Now it’s time to put the YouTube viewing and forum reading into practice.
Is that a picture of the starting clamp you made on request? With the five teeth, it looks the same as your fixed clamps.STARTING CLAMP OR STARTING KNOT.
We made a starting clamp on request but we are not a great supporter of starting clamps.
When we get questions about it we explain the advantage of a starting knot compared to a starting clamp when starting the crosses:
Using the starting clamp:
When using a starting clamp then tension is taken over from the starting clamp with the tension system.
To compensate for loss of tension when making the knot the tension can be raised to “knot tension”.
Making the knot with minimum loss is very difficult also because the first crosses are very short.
Using the starting knot.
When using the starting knot the tension on the first string can be lowered a little to protect the knot and because the first strings are much shorter.
Advantage is that it is much less complicated and there is no “take over loss”.
Is that a picture of the starting clamp you made on request? With the five teeth, it looks the same as your fixed clamps.
So it’s a starting clamp which can not bridge the gap?Yes it is the same castings only not machined to be fixed on the guiding system.
Please explain. Which gap?So it’s a starting clamp which can not bridge the gap?
esm is just mentioning that it doesn’t have eyelets or holes as most starting clamps do to allow it to be more easily used as a bridge in case of the string coming up short to reach the tensioner. With your improvised starting clamp someone could still clamp both the too-short string actually being used to string the racquet as well as “scrap” string to reach the tensioner.Please explain. Which gap?
@kkmPlease explain. Which gap?
Definitely not ideal to have to clamp two strings in the teeth of a clamp.@kkm
Yeah… that’s for that, I didn’t think it was also good for using on the short side and a scrap piece of string in this improvised version! Suppose both strings should be of the same gauge….
We did not test this action.esm is just mentioning that it doesn’t have eyelets or holes as most starting clamps do to allow it to be more easily used as a bridge in case of the string coming up short to reach the tensioner. With your improvised starting clamp someone could still clamp both the too-short string actually being used to string the racquet as well as “scrap” string to reach the tensioner.
Thanks Irvin, I never thought about this option.@Stringway Official actually the triple would make a better starting clamp. The center string is the string you’re trying to tension, and the outer strings could be used to go to the tensioner.
You would have to “stack“ the 2 pieces and hope that the height of the clamp teeth is enough to firmly clamp both.We did not test this action.
I do not see how you can clamp 2 pieces of string in this clamp.
Well , I had, still have the problem few years ago.Figured it out. After removing one side of the stand/legs, I was able to fully visualize the locking pin and the spring.
<a href=" "><img src=" " title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
It looks like when the pin is in the non-locking position or down position, the knob/lever and pin is supposed to hold the spring down, under compression. In other words, the spring should always be pushing the pin up. My spring had coiled up the pin and around the knob/lever enough so that it was no longer under compression and therefore unable to push the pin up.
Simple Fix: Simply unscrew the knob/lever from the pin, push the spring down below the level of where the knob/lever screws into the locking pin, screw knob/lever back into the pin, keeping the spring compressed below the knob/lever.
<a href=" "><img src=" " title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href=" "><img src="https://i.imgur.com/vVMIYhX.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
Hope this helps others. I do wonder how long it will take for the spring to coil itself back up past the level of the Knob/Lever...
-Br.
Those are the sort of castor wheels, but bigger, I intend to fit.