Stringway ML100 T92 on the way!

verbouge

Rookie
I've trolled this board and other resources for countless hours trying to decide on the perfect stringing machine for me. Don't be fooled by my dearth of posts. It's not for lack of time spent here studying this and that. I just don't have a need to be heard on every issue every time.

I've decided upon the Stringway ML 100 with the T92 clamps for a variety of reasons. It's well made (according to you all), great service, long warranty, portable, super duper accurate, easy to use, and not dependent on electricity.

The lil' baby is now on order! I'll post pics when it comes in and is assembled and sitting on its movable table. Thanks to all of you who've selflessly shared your knowledge as I've explored and implored on this board.

Dave
 
Congratulations!!!

Excellent choice!

I have the ML100 with T98 and it's Fantastic! I love stringing with this baby.
With the the T92 it will be smooooooth! And yes, quality, ease of use...it's all true, but it will be great to get your impressions once you receive it.
 
I hate you OP!!! I could only afford teh ML90 w/ T98 at the time. Enjoy your machine!
 
Hahahahahhahaha!!!!!

I'm going to post pictures of it with scantilly-clad Swedish bikini women on either side, and me in the middle, with my FABULOUS new Stringway!!

I've been tracking it on the UPS website. It's due to arrive Wednesday, which just so happens to be my day off....he he. Been ordering packs of poly's like a Banshee so I can find something that doesn't break the bank (like Lux does).

What a luxury to have my own stringer to be able to just tear out a set and put something else in. Especially a Stringway ML 100 with the sweet, single action T92 clamps. Boy oh boy, I sure am glad I'm not getting stuck with a lesser machine or inferior clamps......yep, that would be a drag :)
 
I'm going to post pictures of it with scantilly-clad Swedish bikini women on either side, and me in the middle, with my FABULOUS new Stringway!!

OK, now I am really waiting for the pics... Congrats on your new purchase. You will not regret it! When you take the pics, don't get in the way of the Swedish bikini women please. :)
 
Bought my ML100 w/ single action clamps about 6-7 years ago from a fellow TW member. Best tennis purchase I ever made, bar none. A few weeks after getting the machine I picked up a gig stringing for a D1 college team. Needless to say, the machine paid for itself in only a matter of months. I have strung on many different machines and have yet to find a better, more secure mounting system than what is on the Stringways. Sure it takes a few seconds longer than on some of the quicker 6-point systems but it's well worth it for the peace of mind knowing your getting the most secure mounting system of any machine available (IMO). At the time I bought my ML100, and a few years thereafter, I was working at a sporting goods store stringing racquets. I trusted the mounting and tensioning systems on the Stringway so much I only strung my racquets on the Stringway instead of the store's Babolat Star 3 and Star 5. I've strung several thousand racquets on the machine and it's showing no signs of even beginning to wear out. Congrats on a very smart purchase/investment.
 
She's here!

The stringer came in yesterday, Wednesday, in the afternoon. I felt like an expectant father, tracking it all the way from Austin, TX, to Newberg, OR, over the course of a week. The closer it got to my house the more anxious I became to put it together and wrap my head around it.

I was on two-year-old patrol yesterday, so everything was interrupted by a psycho toddler who's more curious than Tom Cruise at a bisexual convention. I finally got it together, though, and began slowly going through the process of stringing my first racket with it. I had to tighten the T-92 clamps cuz the string kept slipping out of them. Lesson one. I had to master the mounting system using directions that were less than optimal. Lesson two. I put a thin layer of grease on the clamp slide rods, and in the middle of stringing the mains, one of the clamps slipped and I lost all tension on all strings. Lesson three.

I was doing a one-piece string job on an old racket late last night while watching the Aussie Open, and the string on the long side broke at the head of the racket right as I was just about done with the mains. No idea why this happened. I didn't see anything obvious around the grommets or head guard that would have caused this. I was double pulling, though, because the string I was using, Forten Sweet 17, had a lot of stretch. But even double pulling should only impart as much tension as you've got the weight set for (in this case 60lbs), so I'm a little perplexed. I would hate to be in the middle of a Luxilon or gut string job and have this happen. I know it may well have been something I did, but any ideas from the peanut gallery?

I'm going to post photos soon. In the mean time, those Swedish bikini models are out on tour somewhere, or perhaps working in a massage parlor that I lost the phone number for. I have some chickens, though, so maybe they'd be happy to mug for a shot with the Stringway.

You guys and gals have been awesome. Glad to hear of JRW's long experience with this machine. The one racket I did get done, one of my Gamma T-7's, was so easy to do I wanted more to work on--hence the hunting down of the old Head Liquidmetal Instinct Tour XL and the ensuing broken-main caper. I put Cyber Flash mains at 50lbs. with Forten Sweet 17 crosses at 56lbs. Fun fun fun.

Pics coming soon,
Dave
 
Only the cross guiding bars

I put a thin layer of grease on the clamp slide rods, and in the middle of stringing the mains, one of the clamps slipped and I lost all tension on all strings.

Congratulations with your purchase be prepared for a long relation with it.

One remark: only put grease or vaseline on the guiding bars in cross direction and NOT on the shafts along the table.
The delrin bushes should slide easy without grease but may not lock anymore when you grease them.
 
Congratulations!!!

Been there, done that! I went through the same thing waiting for my ML120 to arrive about 2 years ago. It's been a great machine for me.

I had a similar experience on New Year's Day. I was stringing a hybrid with Pacific Classic Gut in the mains and Weisscannon Explosiv! in the crosses. I was tensioning the last main and "SNAP". I had just install new grommets and as I was tensioning the last main, the grommet didn't stay seated and the string ended up rubbing against the frame and snapped. Luckily, it snapped at the last main, so I still had 18' of the gut left. I restrung the mains and had just enough.
 
I trusted the mounting and tensioning systems on the Stringway so much I only strung my racquets on the Stringway instead of the store's Babolat Star 3 and Star 5. I've strung several thousand racquets on the machine and it's showing no signs of even beginning to wear out. Congrats on a very smart purchase/investment.


JRW - I am in the market for a stringing machine and since you have experience using both the Ml100 and Star 3 and 5, what would you say the pros and cons are going with one over the other?
 
The stringer came in yesterday, Wednesday, in the afternoon. I felt like an expectant father, tracking it all the way from Austin, TX, to Newberg, OR, over the course of a week. The closer it got to my house the more anxious I became to put it together and wrap my head around it.

I was on two-year-old patrol yesterday, so everything was interrupted by a psycho toddler who's more curious than Tom Cruise at a bisexual convention. I finally got it together, though, and began slowly going through the process of stringing my first racket with it. I had to tighten the T-92 clamps cuz the string kept slipping out of them. Lesson one. I had to master the mounting system using directions that were less than optimal. Lesson two. I put a thin layer of grease on the clamp slide rods, and in the middle of stringing the mains, one of the clamps slipped and I lost all tension on all strings. Lesson three.

I was doing a one-piece string job on an old racket late last night while watching the Aussie Open, and the string on the long side broke at the head of the racket right as I was just about done with the mains. No idea why this happened. I didn't see anything obvious around the grommets or head guard that would have caused this. I was double pulling, though, because the string I was using, Forten Sweet 17, had a lot of stretch. But even double pulling should only impart as much tension as you've got the weight set for (in this case 60lbs), so I'm a little perplexed. I would hate to be in the middle of a Luxilon or gut string job and have this happen. I know it may well have been something I did, but any ideas from the peanut gallery?

I'm going to post photos soon. In the mean time, those Swedish bikini models are out on tour somewhere, or perhaps working in a massage parlor that I lost the phone number for. I have some chickens, though, so maybe they'd be happy to mug for a shot with the Stringway.

You guys and gals have been awesome. Glad to hear of JRW's long experience with this machine. The one racket I did get done, one of my Gamma T-7's, was so easy to do I wanted more to work on--hence the hunting down of the old Head Liquidmetal Instinct Tour XL and the ensuing broken-main caper. I put Cyber Flash mains at 50lbs. with Forten Sweet 17 crosses at 56lbs. Fun fun fun.

Pics coming soon,
Dave

Did you drop the weight or gently let it fall, while supporting it with your hand?
 
Did you drop the weight or gently let it fall, while supporting it with your hand?
I don't know if you're familiar with this machine, but the fall of the weight is naturally slow and gentle. That said, no, I did not support it with my hand as it fell. Maybe I should have??
 
When you drop the weight the tension in the string will overshoot the adjusted tension, because the string has to decelerate the weight.
So just guiding the weight is also important for the accuracy.
 
Did you consider the alpha revo 4000 or equivalent gamma with a wise2086 tension head?
I did indeed consider that, Equinox. I went with this machine for a number of reasons.

It's known for being quality made. It's a true contstant pull machine that is easy to use. Alpha is known for great customer service. I'll already attest to that. It does not rely on electricity, so it is super portable. Also, I've not been impressed with the stuff I've read about the Wise head. My thinking regarding electronics was this: If I'm going with an electronic tension head, I want it integrated into the machine, and not as an after-market part. I mean, it just seemed like more stuff to go wrong.

I sounds like you've got a Revo 4000 with a Wise head on it? Something like that? I'm not knocking it. I just bought what I did for the reasons stated above, and am very happy already for it.

Dave
 
I sounds like you've got a Revo 4000 with a Wise head on it? Something like that? I'm not knocking it. I just bought what I did for the reasons stated above, and am very happy already for it.

Dave

Very good.

No didn't buy an alpha revo 4000 because of shipping costs to my country and eagnas ripoffs were the only ones available at the time.
And the wise was being sold for $1800 usd in my country!
Now another place is selling it much cheaper for $800 usd.

They're the reasons i'm considering upgrading.

I to have a stringway m90 portable with floating clamps. Worked very over the years.

I do envy your fixed clamps. :)
 
Lonely islands

Equinox, I did not know the Cocos Islands so I looked at Googlemaps.
These are really far away!
Where did you order your Stringway maschine?
 
Congratulations!!!

Excellent choice!

I have the ML100 with T98 and it's Fantastic! I love stringing with this baby.
With the the T92 it will be smooooooth! And yes, quality, ease of use...it's all true, but it will be great to get your impressions once you receive it.

I am thinking about getting the same machine you have! Do you think the 92 clamps are necessary? or are the 98 clamps sufficient? I plan to string pretty often..for me and some friends.
 
I ordered the T92`s

I have just ordered the ML100 myself, and went for the T92 clamps.
Since I intend to use my machine for many years and string alot of rackets, I think it`s worth the upgrade to the single action clamps.

I`m getting mine from Stringway in the Nederlands, and I hope for it to arrive next week :)
 
Alpha Stringway Customer Service

Got my Stringway. Love my Stringway. However, there was a technical glitch-o with the stringer. One of the string clamps comes right off the main platform at the "head" end. I looked and looked and tried to figure a way to adjust the base of the clamp, but to no avail. So I called Alpha.

After having originally spoken with Greg, he referred me to Mark Gonzalez, the Stringway expert there. Mark asked that I send pictures to him, which I promptly did. He then told me that his contact with the factory in Holland, Fred Timmer, was very interested in this issue, and wanted to see the pictures himself. Once Mark saw the photos, he emailed me back right away, informing that he had a new platform on the way via UPS, and to exchange out the old platform when the new arrives and ship it back to him, prepaid, of course.

The machine as it is does function beautifully, but it's not perfect. I have no problem receiving one with a technical flaw as long as the company stands by its product and does the right thing. Stuff happens, right? Who was it that said to go with Eagnas???? HAHAHAHHAHAHAAHA!! George Lucas?? You oughtta stick with special effects. And DON'T make any more Star Wars movies!! And go out and buy a Stringway!!!! Eagnas Schmeagnas.....still laughing about that one.

But seriously, the customer support that comes with a reputable company is as valuable as the product itself. This is an amazing machine and so far the support has been amazing, as well.

I just did my first one-piece string job while my wife was out. Took about an hour. Yulitle is just about the best thing since sliced bread....or as least since graphite rackets. Am now considering becoming the local stringer in my community, being that I don't think there is one. This is going to be FUN!

Gotta figure out how to post images here. Searching for just a few minutes I'm not yet sure how to do it. The "insert images" button wants a URL for images, but I just want to upload them from my camera. Can anyone throw me a bone here? Checked FAQ and didn't see this directly addressed......

Now, gotta go hit some balls!

Dave
 
Gotta figure out how to post images here. Searching for just a few minutes I'm not yet sure how to do it. The "insert images" button wants a URL for images, but I just want to upload them from my camera. Can anyone throw me a bone here? Checked FAQ and didn't see this directly addressed......

Now, gotta go hit some balls!

Dave

Glad to hear you are pleased with your machine. I have an ML100 as well but I have the double action clamps. I'm curious to see yours in action so here are some tips for posting pictures.

1. First you have to upload your pictures to an image host. Tiny Pic and Image Shack are popular choices.
2. When you get to the website select the browse option and select one of your pictures and press upload.
3. When you've uploaded your picture look for an option for sharing this image. You will want the one that says "Message Boards" or "Forums". It will have tags around it.
4. You can then copy this link and paste it into a post in this thread.
 
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Thank you, Stoble. I'll get on that when I have some time and energy to put forth toward this.

One observation about the ML 100. It's not a fast stringer. I mean, it's not fast if you wait for the weight to drop as far as it can before clamping off the string. I just takes a while to get all the stretch out of the string. However, I'm pretty darn sure that my string jobs are about as accurate and as quality as you can get, even compared to the best electronic machines out there. But there's just about no fast way to do it the right way AND string quickly.

Anyone else have this same insight?

Dave
 
... One observation about the ML 100. It's not a fast stringer. I mean, it's not fast if you wait for the weight to drop as far as it can before clamping off the string. I just takes a while to get all the stretch out of the string. ... But there's just about no fast way to do it the right way AND string quickly.

Anyone else have this same insight?

Dave

Having had a few chances to string on one, my experiences were the same.
However, the DT reading of a racquet strung on the ML100 can be quite a bit lower than that of the same racquet strung with the same string and same reference tension (no prestretch) on an electronic machine.
 
I am thinking about getting the same machine you have! Do you think the 92 clamps are necessary? or are the 98 clamps sufficient? I plan to string pretty often..for me and some friends.

Hi Dirty Bob,

Tough question, I wouldn't say necessary, Preferable would be a better adjective.
The T98's work great, they're just little slower since they're double action. I guess it will depend on how many racquets you plan to string, I don't have any issues with T98s but I rarely string more than a couple of racquets on any given day, that being said, I believe it would be more comfortable with a single action especially if you're stringing for a few hours at a time.

I hope this helps.
 
Thank you, Stoble. I'll get on that when I have some time and energy to put forth toward this.

One observation about the ML 100. It's not a fast stringer. I mean, it's not fast if you wait for the weight to drop as far as it can before clamping off the string. I just takes a while to get all the stretch out of the string. However, I'm pretty darn sure that my string jobs are about as accurate and as quality as you can get, even compared to the best electronic machines out there. But there's just about no fast way to do it the right way AND string quickly.

Anyone else have this same insight?

Dave

How long is it taking you to finish a racquet?
 
How long is it taking you to finish a racquet?
Gosh, at least 45 minutes. Maybe longer if I take the time to let the dropweight do its thing. I just can't put that clamp on if it's still moving even a little. I'll time it next time and go as fast as I can.

In regard to KKM's posting that the electronic machines string tighter than the ML100, I'm not so sure that's a good thing. Fred Timmer, the Stringway guy from Holland, sent me some stuff online explaining that even sophisticated electronic machines can have a tendency to overcompensate for string stretch in comparison to the type of machine I've got. Of course, Fred does represent Stringway, but those guys also sell electronic machines. At least with the ML100 I know that the force that has the final say in the tension of the strings is gravity itself, and that's a pretty reliable constant. Also, it's just plain fun to use.

Dave
 
Gosh, at least 45 minutes. Maybe longer if I take the time to let the dropweight do its thing. I just can't put that clamp on if it's still moving even a little. I'll time it next time and go as fast as I can.

In regard to KKM's posting that the electronic machines string tighter than the ML100, I'm not so sure that's a good thing. Fred Timmer, the Stringway guy from Holland, sent me some stuff online explaining that even sophisticated electronic machines can have a tendency to overcompensate for string stretch in comparison to the type of machine I've got. Of course, Fred does represent Stringway, but those guys also sell electronic machines. At least with the ML100 I know that the force that has the final say in the tension of the strings is gravity itself, and that's a pretty reliable constant. Also, it's just plain fun to use.

Dave


It also takes me 45 min. / racquet. But most of my time is spent weaving crosses and straightening them. When I tension a string I normally don't wait long to clamp it. I watch it stretch for about 3-4 seconds then clamp. You may be using a stretchier string than I use though.
 
Hi Dirty Bob,

Tough question, I wouldn't say necessary, Preferable would be a better adjective.
The T98's work great, they're just little slower since they're double action. I guess it will depend on how many racquets you plan to string, I don't have any issues with T98s but I rarely string more than a couple of racquets on any given day, that being said, I believe it would be more comfortable with a single action especially if you're stringing for a few hours at a time.

I hope this helps.

Thanks a lot! I've decided to stick with the stock T98 clamps because of my budget. I am actually very used to clamps that are double action. (Hopefully they are spring assisted though.) But thanks anyway. I'm going to order a StringWay next Monday so that I don't have too much to pay off on my credit card bill. Can't wait!
 
It also takes me 45 min. / racquet. But most of my time is spent weaving crosses and straightening them. When I tension a string I normally don't wait long to clamp it. I watch it stretch for about 3-4 seconds then clamp. You may be using a stretchier string than I use though.

I don't know, Stoble. I've been using a hybrid of Forten Sweet 17 and various different poly's. If I look closely at the dropweight and the bar, they seem to move for an awfully long time, although longer for the nylon crosses than the poly mains. 3-4 seconds seems like a pretty quick clamp time.

I've done different things, like marking the string with a Sharpie at 5 seconds to see how much it moves, and observing the dropweight bar with a perpendicular straight edge to determine when it stops moving. Although subtle, the mechanism seems to move for a good period of time before coming to a definitive halt. I have no problem with this because I don't string tons and tons of rackets, and I'm confident that the rackets I do string are as accurate as any you'll find. What can be more reliable than gravity to tell you when its job is done?

Whatever the case, it's not a speed contest in my household. It's a matter of doing super excellent string jobs while my wife is knitting after a long day, and our 2 1/2 year old is running around being crazy. What can be better (except maybe to vanquish an opponent who has long had my number!)?

Dave
 
Same here, I string on ML100 usually between 50 min up to 90 min (if I use natural gut). It could be done quicker, but as I don't do it for business (I string only my rackets), I prefer quality over speed. I am using ML100 with SW flying clamps.
 
verbouge Quote:
Originally Posted by stoble

I don't know, Stoble. I've been using a hybrid of Forten Sweet 17 and various different poly's. If I look closely at the dropweight and the bar, they seem to move for an awfully long time, although longer for the nylon crosses than the poly mains. 3-4 seconds seems like a pretty quick clamp time.

I've done different things, like marking the string with a Sharpie at 5 seconds to see how much it moves, and observing the dropweight bar with a perpendicular straight edge to determine when it stops moving. Although subtle, the mechanism seems to move for a good period of time before coming to a definitive halt. I have no problem with this because I don't string tons and tons of rackets, and I'm confident that the rackets I do string are as accurate as any you'll find. What can be more reliable than gravity to tell you when its job is done?

The fact that the string keeps creeping does not only mean that it is a string that needs more time to stretch. It also can mean that it is a string with a lot of REMAINING elongation.
Because remaining elongation also means that you loose tension quicker during play it could be good to do a very simple elongation test with the strings that you use.

You get a kind of quality "index" of a string by deviding the elastic elongation
by the remaining elongation.

This can be done very easy on an automatic dropweight system as most of the guys in this discussion use.

If you are interested just let me know.
 
The fact that the string keeps creeping does not only mean that it is a string that needs more time to stretch. It also can mean that it is a string with a lot of REMAINING elongation.
Because remaining elongation also means that you loose tension quicker during play it could be good to do a very simple elongation test with the strings that you use.

You get a kind of quality "index" of a string by deviding the elastic elongation
by the remaining elongation.

This can be done very easy on an automatic dropweight system as most of the guys in this discussion use.

If you are interested just let me know.

Sure, I'm up for just about anything that increases my knowledge base and improves the final outcome. Thanks.
 
Testing String Elongation

stringelongation2.jpg

Hereby the description of the elongation test of strings. The graph shows the elongation of a string as measured on a real test bench.
The vertical axis shows the Tension in the string and the horizontal axis shows the elongation. The string is tensioned from 44 lbs to 88 lbs.
It is good enough to test the string between 33 and 66 kg because strings are used in this range.

The test on a dropweight machines goes as follows:
- It is important to use a string that has not been tensioned before.
- Move one post to the end of the turntable and lock the table in a position with that post away from the tensioner.
- Move on fixed clamp in line with the tensioner, as far away as possible.
- Clamp the test string in the clamp.
- Adjust the tensioner at 15 kg (33 lbs) and pull tension on the string. Lower the weight very slowly so that you do not overshoot the adjusted tension.
- Mark the string in 2 positions at a certain distance (L1) with a marker or 2 pieces of tape. The longer this distance the more accurate the test.
- Raise the tension to 30 kg (66 lbs) wait 10 to 15 seconds and measure the distance again (L2)
- Move the weight back to 15 kg and measure the distance again (L3).

Out of these measurements you can calculate the following specs:
1) The total elongation between 15 and 30 kg = L2 - L1.

2) The elastic elongation = L3 – L2.
This is the elasticity of a string, which provides the power/

3) The remaining elongation = L3 - L1
This elongation causes the string to creep and to loose tension during play.

To get a “quality index” for a string you can divide the elasticity by the total elongation..
The more elastic elongation in relation to the total elongation the better the string.\

A good gut string has an index of about 0,8.
The index of a good nylons is 0,6 – 0,7
The difference in quality of polys is huge, the index is 0,1 – 0,4.
 
stringelongation2.jpg

Hereby the description of the elongation test of strings....

This is great stuff, Technatic. I'll bet somebody's already gone through the hard work of doing this for countless strings and compiling a chart of the results. Would you have any idea if this is so and where that information is available?

Come to think of it, I think is was you, Technatic, who posted an article on another website (although it may have been this one) regarding the stability and reliability of different tension mechanisms. There were graphs comparing the effect on string tension of auto. dropweights, electronic, and lock out crank machines. Very striking stuff. Truth be told, that post was the final reason I decided to go with the Stringway (Laserfibre was simply not an option) over all the others.

Fred Timmer, the guy from Holland I posted about previously, sent me the same article a couple of days ago. Of course, Fred does represent Stringway. Nonetheless, if the graphs are true, they speak for themselves. A good product is a good product, and just because he's selling it doesn't mean the information is not true.

Thank you for this post, Technatic. Great one!

Dave
 
No coincidence

This is not a coincidence:

I am a big fan of the Stringway products and use their EM450, cross stringers, Stringlab and the tension advisor system for nearly 20 years.

The graph comes out of their Seminar that Fred sent you probably, I collect documents about stringing so I have most of them.

I know that they carry out those string tests for a long time already , so if you ask Fred he can probably provide you with figures.

I did show the graphs of the different tensioners because it seems impossible to manipulate them.
And the story in that article is also very credible: For accuracy you can not beat gravity.

I do believe that and I do think that the ML100 is more accurate than my own EM450.
The advantage of such a high tech machine as the EM450 is that it always pulls in the same gradual way and it is more convenient.

So somehow we are members of the same club.
 
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And here I have been thinking that you Technatic were none other than Fred Timmer himself.

I've no doubt Fred has been reading this thread, but I can attest to the non-Fredness of Technatic. Fred is fluent in English, but his syntax is decidedly Dutch. Big difference in flavor between the posts of Technatic and my emails with Fred.
 
stringelongation2.jpg

Hereby the description of the elongation test of strings. The graph shows the elongation of a string as measured on a real test bench.
The vertical axis shows the Tension in the string and the horizontal axis shows the elongation. The string is tensioned from 44 lbs to 88 lbs.
It is good enough to test the string between 33 and 66 kg because strings are used in this range.

The test on a dropweight machines goes as follows:
- It is important to use a string that has not been tensioned before.
- Move one post to the end of the turntable and lock the table in a position with that post away from the tensioner.
- Move on fixed clamp in line with the tensioner, as far away as possible.
- Clamp the test string in the clamp.
- Adjust the tensioner at 15 kg (33 lbs) and pull tension on the string. Lower the weight very slowly so that you do not overshoot the adjusted tension.
- Mark the string in 2 positions at a certain distance (L1) with a marker or 2 pieces of tape. The longer this distance the more accurate the test.
- Raise the tension to 30 kg (66 lbs) wait 10 to 15 seconds and measure the distance again (L2)
- Move the weight back to 15 kg and measure the distance again (L3).

Out of these measurements you can calculate the following specs:
1) The total elongation between 15 and 30 kg = L2 - L1.

2) The elastic elongation = L3 – L2.
This is the elasticity of a string, which provides the power/

3) The remaining elongation = L3 - L1
This elongation causes the string to creep and to loose tension during play.

To get a “quality index” for a string you can divide the elasticity by the total elongation..
The more elastic elongation in relation to the total elongation the better the string.\

A good gut string has an index of about 0,8.
The index of a good nylons is 0,6 – 0,7
The difference in quality of polys is huge, the index is 0,1 – 0,4.

Thanks technatic,

This is very interesting! Nothing like getting properly documented data to properly evaluate each sting.
I'm going to give this a try myself. Excellent!!
 
I don't know, Stoble. I've been using a hybrid of Forten Sweet 17 and various different poly's. If I look closely at the dropweight and the bar, they seem to move for an awfully long time, although longer for the nylon crosses than the poly mains. 3-4 seconds seems like a pretty quick clamp time.

I've done different things, like marking the string with a Sharpie at 5 seconds to see how much it moves, and observing the dropweight bar with a perpendicular straight edge to determine when it stops moving. Although subtle, the mechanism seems to move for a good period of time before coming to a definitive halt. I have no problem with this because I don't string tons and tons of rackets, and I'm confident that the rackets I do string are as accurate as any you'll find. What can be more reliable than gravity to tell you when its job is done?

Whatever the case, it's not a speed contest in my household. It's a matter of doing super excellent string jobs while my wife is knitting after a long day, and our 2 1/2 year old is running around being crazy. What can be better (except maybe to vanquish an opponent who has long had my number!)?

Dave

I usually take about 45-50min as well. When I string a multi I usually wait about 5-6 seconds than clamp, string isn't moving at that point. Also, most of my time is spent weaving the crosses. Speed isn't my priority either but I don't like to take much more time than is necessary to do a proper job.

Do you use the Cross stringing tool?
I use it particularly when weaving Poly and it saves me quite a bit of time and makes the weaving more comfortable. I would like your thoughts on the Tool.

D.
 
Howdy Dez,

I'm posting with my new laptop for the first time, and for some reason can't post with your quote.

However, to answer your question, I don't have the cross stringing tool. I'm kind of enamored with learning to cross manually faster and faster like the guys at the local shop, or Yulitle in his videos. I mean, stringing for me is not about time or money so much, but a labor of love. Tennis itself is a labor of love for just about all of us on this site. With that in mind, I'm enjoying the challenge of learning this new technical skill inside and out, upside down and backwards, and that includes doing the crosses by hand. I'm not a purist by any means. I just prefer to go about it this way.

I got the new table for the ML100, by the way, and it's flawless. Haven't had a chance to string a racket up with it yet, though. My wife and I are having a weekend getaway, so the machine sits idle at home.

Alpha and Stringway have been top notch to deal with. Great companies, great products, great support. I could not be happier.

Take care,
Dave
 
Howdy Dez,

I'm posting with my new laptop for the first time, and for some reason can't post with your quote.

However, to answer your question, I don't have the cross stringing tool. I'm kind of enamored with learning to cross manually faster and faster like the guys at the local shop, or Yulitle in his videos. I mean, stringing for me is not about time or money so much, but a labor of love. Tennis itself is a labor of love for just about all of us on this site. With that in mind, I'm enjoying the challenge of learning this new technical skill inside and out, upside down and backwards, and that includes doing the crosses by hand. I'm not a purist by any means. I just prefer to go about it this way.

I got the new table for the ML100, by the way, and it's flawless. Haven't had a chance to string a racket up with it yet, though. My wife and I are having a weekend getaway, so the machine sits idle at home.

Alpha and Stringway have been top notch to deal with. Great companies, great products, great support. I could not be happier.

Take care,
Dave

Hi Verbouge,

Excellent, my experience with Stringway has been superb as well.

I agree, it's important to learn proper and efficient technique, and it's fun.
I enjoy stringing manually but when I have to string several racquets is a row, usually by the 3rd one (especially if they're poly) I often use the tool for convenience and comfort. Either way, with the ML100 you can't go wrong!

Enjoy! :)
 
One quick question to all SW ML90/ML100 owners: If you string a "stretchy" string such as nat gut or very soft multi at higher tension (eg. 60 lbs / 28kg), what is the best way to achieve this tension?

I usually string at lower tensions (<55) and never have this kind of problem, but when I tried to string my Tonic nat gut at 60 lbs, the gut stretched so much, that weight on the machine dropped all the way to bottom. What is the best way to do next? If you release and tension again, it is fine, but I am not sure it is good for the string, is it? :(

Sorry for this nob question, but as I say, I usually string very low...and never experienced this before.
 
One quick question to all SW ML90/ML100 owners: If you string a "stretchy" string such as nat gut or very soft multi at higher tension (eg. 60 lbs / 28kg), what is the best way to achieve this tension?

I usually string at lower tensions (<55) and never have this kind of problem, but when I tried to string my Tonic nat gut at 60 lbs, the gut stretched so much, that weight on the machine dropped all the way to bottom. What is the best way to do next? If you release and tension again, it is fine, but I am not sure it is good for the string, is it? :(

Sorry for this nob question, but as I say, I usually string very low...and never experienced this before.

I've had this happen with the Forten Sweet crosses I use. I don't know if this is the best thing to do in the strictest technical sense, but from a practical standpoint, I've developed my own little method to deal with this issue.

If you're pretty sure or know for sure that your string will "bottom out", let the weight drop a little way down, then stop it as you re-pull the string from the tensioner. Does that make sense? Once I started doing this, there was no problem any more. In other words, don't let the weight drop all the way, but just part of the way. Hold the string taut, release the tensioner, grab the string, pull out the slack, reengage the tensioner, and continue letting the weight drop until it stops as usual.

Hopefully this is of some help. I would highly suggest you email Mark Gonzalez at Alpha, and ask him to hook you up with Fred Timmer at Stringway. The two of them will most certainly be able to help you.

Good luck,
Dave
 
Did you drop the weight or gently let it fall, while supporting it with your hand?

I don't know if you're familiar with this machine, but the fall of the weight is naturally slow and gentle. That said, no, I did not support it with my hand as it fell. Maybe I should have??

When you drop the weight the tension in the string will overshoot the adjusted tension, because the string has to decelerate the weight.
So just guiding the weight is also important for the accuracy.

Always support the weight with your hand and gently let it fall. Otherwise, like Technatic stated, you'll overstretch the string and remove some of the resilience (for that specific tension setting).
 
sidzej One quick question to all SW ML90/ML100 owners: If you string a "stretchy" string such as nat gut or very soft multi at higher tension (eg. 60 lbs / 28kg), what is the best way to achieve this tension?

I usually string at lower tensions (<55) and never have this kind of problem, but when I tried to string my Tonic nat gut at 60 lbs, the gut stretched so much, that weight on the machine dropped all the way to bottom. What is the best way to do next? If you release and tension again, it is fine, but I am not sure it is good for the string, is it?

Sorry for this nob question, but as I say, I usually string very low...and never experienced this before.

My advise in this matter is the following:
Just let the lever bottom, lift the lever again, pull the string tight and drop the weight again.

BUT TAKE CARE: Do not move the clamp after the first pull because the tension "on the other side of the clamp" will also dropweight to the tension that was too low after the first pull.
 
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