Tension issue / technique question about portable stringing machine

F

FIRETennis

Professional
I've recently purchased the a portable stringing machine similar in concept to the Pro Stringer except it's manual.
The racquet is mounted on two points and a portable tensioner is used to pull tension. It is a spring based manual tensioner.
I love the machine itself and the portability aspect however I am having an issue getting the resulting tension remotely close to the pulled tension.
I'd like to find out if it's my technique or if it's just a limitation of the combination of flying clamps and lock out that is causing this.

I've done now maybe 10 string jobs with it and can't seem to quite get the resulting tension 'correctly' compared to a drop-weight or electronic constant pull.
I check resulting tension using RacquetTune by pinging the string bed. I have been doing this for years and it has been correctly reporting tension on drop weight and electronic constant pull machines.
I have checked the pulling tension using an electronic scale and the tensioner is correctly calibrated.
If I pull 25kg, the electronic scale shows 25kg as being pulled on a poly string then slowly starts to drop to 24..23.5 etc.
I'm assuming this is because of the poly stretching?
The tension difference between the time tension is pulled and clamping seems to be around 1.5kg lower.
I've tried pulling 27kg even and the result was 23kg.
The most I was able to get was 23kg.
I understand that flying clamps and the 'lock out' type mechanism together will yield a tension much less than the 'pulled tension' but the difference I am seeing is around -3.5kg/-7.5lbs lower than pulled tension.

I do two-piece string jobs, starting with the two mains clamped in one of the flying clamps then pulling tension on 4 mains on one side, one by one, then moving on to the other side for 4 mains, then alternate.
Crosses I start with a starting knot, pull tension on the first two crosses and clamp after which I use two flying clamps, one on each side of the frame.
The flying clamps are the blue/black Gamma plastic ones, and I check the tightness before each string job. I even clamp a bit too tight now to ensure there is no slippage through the actual clamp.

I would like to ask if anyone that uses these types of portable stringing machines has had a similar experience if they have any tips in getting a consistent result.
 
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If the tension continues falling to 23 kg it sounds to me as though the clamps are the issue. They won’t hold over 23 kg and any tension applied over that is lost. Another issue is if the string is slipping through the clamp the string is being damaged as it slips in the clamp.
 
Mark the string with a black sharpie right behind the Gamma clamp and see if the mark moves away the clamp. If the string is slipping, you will be able to see it. Assuming that the clamps are the culprit, when was the last time you cleaned those clamps? This is a standard check. Read on...

When you checked the pulled tension with the digital scale, did that tension start to drop before you clamped? That is what I am reading in your problem description. What is the make of the stringing machine? I do not think it is a LO? Or is it suppose to be CP? Could the string be slipping thru the gripper once it "locks out?" Again, mark the string with the sharpie as soon as it "locks out." If that mark moves away from the gripper, that is your problem. The fix is to clean the string gripper and perhaps wipe down the string with a paper towel before installing. HTH

If nothing is slipping then I suggest a final trial using 20 Kg ref tension. If the resulting RT readings stay at 20 Kg, then it is an overall machine issue.
 
FIRETennis said:
I'd like to find out if it's my technique or if it's just a limitation of the combination of flying clamps and lock out that is causing this.

I've done now maybe 10 string jobs with it ...

If I pull 25kg, the electronic scale shows 25kg as being pulled on a poly string then slowly starts to drop to 24..23.5 etc.
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Try using reference tension of 23 kg and 21 kg and see if the result is the similar. You can try out the low tensioned string bed to see if you like them. I read that 23 or 25 kg is at about the high end of poly's performance limit. It is now a pretty standard practice to string closer to 20 to 21 kg and the string bed will last longer

By the way, you did not state how long this change occur from 25 kg to 23.5 to 23 kg. Overnight, 2 days or after hitting sessions?

All strings lengthen when tension is applied. And at higher tension, the more tension is dropped. That is the nature of the material for any synthetic strings.

If you want to know the outcome of your string job from string to string, RT cannot show you that. You might have a procedural issue in your stringing causing uneven tension across the string bed and RT only show you one number to represent the whole string bed. If you want to get a string to string picture then a cheap StringMeter may give you something to examine.
 
@FIRETennis i just thought of another issue you could have. It possible only the cross strings are slipping in the clamps Because they are held out closer to the tip of the clamp than the mains are. When the mains and crosses are woven together the teeth of the clamp does not go as far into the stringbed. To check for slippage pinch the string next to the clamp on the side closest to the tensioner. If there is any slipping you will feel it.
 
Another idea. I’ve never used a Mistringer just seen videos of operation. It looks similar to the operation of a lock Out machine. You drop the tension arm and when you reach tension a lever pops out stopping further movement or tension. Because it lock out very early in the tensioning process the string may not stretch out fully. It might be a good idea to run in the next string and before you move the clamp release tension and tension the string again. It’s like a double pull method.
 
Irvin said:
If the tension continues falling to 23 kg it sounds to me as though the clamps are the issue. They won’t hold over 23 kg and any tension applied over that is lost.
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esgee48 said:
Mark the string with a black sharpie right behind the Gamma clamp and see if the mark moves away the clamp. If the string is slipping, you will be able to see it. Assuming that the clamps are the culprit, when was the last time you cleaned those clamps? This is a standard check. Read on...

When you checked the pulled tension with the digital scale, did that tension start to drop before you clamped? That is what I am reading in your problem description. What is the make of the stringing machine? I do not think it is a LO? Or is it suppose to be CP? Could the string be slipping thru the gripper once it "locks out?" Again, mark the string with the sharpie as soon as it "locks out." If that mark moves away from the gripper, that is your problem. The fix is to clean the string gripper and perhaps wipe down the string with a paper towel before installing. HTH
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I did not check the tension with a clamp since it's a bit tricker to setup the electronic scale with the multiple strings required for the flying clamps to work.
I simply tied a string from the end of the scale and pulled it through the grommet and pulled tension. When the tensioner said 25kg, the scale showed 25kg and then started to drop around 2-3kg in 10 seconds.
By 'lock out' I mean it stops applying more tension when you reach the desired tension on the scale of the tensioner. It does not actually lock like a LO. Similar to the MiStringer, yes.
I do a clamp clean with alcohol just before stringing.
Haven't tried cleaning the gripper yet but the machine is newish so I can try that.
Visually (looking at the position of text on the string) there isn't any slippage but I will try the black sharpie mark.

tennisbike said:
By the way, you did not state how long this change occur from 25 kg to 23.5 to 23 kg. Overnight, 2 days or after hitting sessions?
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If I use an electronic scale to test the tensioner, this drop occurs over 3-5 seconds.
When I pull 27kg on all the strings when stringing, the resulting pinging of the string-bed indicates 23kg right off the stringer.
I trust the pinging app because I have used it for years to check the tension (Hertz) of string jobs from drop weight machines and pricy electronic constant pull machines.

Irvin said:
To check for slippage pinch the string next to the clamp on the side closest to the tensioner. If there is any slipping you will feel it.
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I'm not sure I understand this method of checking for slippage. Would the black mark behind the clamp work?
 
Contact maker?

Is your machine a Lock Out or Constant pull? If it is CP, the tension should not drop. If it is a LO, try pulling 30 Kg and see if it settles at 23 Kg.

Set up your scale and use a scrape piece of polyester. Clean the gripper to make sure that it is not slipping. Set up to pull 20 Kg 2-3 times. Does it slip? Now set up to pull 25 Kg 2-3 times. We can rule out slow plastic flow since the string was tensioned 6 times. If tension still drops, I suspect that the spring mechanism is not doing its job .

You really need to test whether the gripper is slipping to rule it out as the cause of the tension drop. Is it a linear pull or rotary pulling device? We are shooting blind since we do not even know what the machine looks like...
 
FIRETennis said:
If I use an electronic scale to test the tensioner, this drop occurs over 3-5 seconds.
When I pull 27kg on all the strings when stringing, the resulting pinging of the string-bed indicates 23kg right off the stringer.
I trust the pinging app because I have used it for years to check the tension (Hertz) of string jobs from drop weight machines and pricy electronic constant pull machines.
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I think we are looking at two three things here. Apples and oranges .. These are is what I thought you wrote:

1. You used RT for years on rackets strung by other stringers. You specified 27kg reference tension and the racket came back, you pinged and showed 27 kg.

2. You string at 27 kg ref. tension, as you are pulling one string you observed the tension on electronic scale and the reading dropped to 23 kg.

3. You pinged the result string bed after strung and RT reads 23 kg.

What I simply suggest is that you ignore #2 for now and string your racket say 30 kg and see if RT will read higher than 23 kg. (make sure same string is used now as in #1.
 
esgee48 said:
Contact maker?

Is your machine a Lock Out or Constant pull? If it is CP, the tension should not drop. If it is a LO, try pulling 30 Kg and see if it settles at 23 Kg.

Set up your scale and use a scrape piece of polyester. Clean the gripper to make sure that it is not slipping. Set up to pull 20 Kg 2-3 times. Does it slip? Now set up to pull 25 Kg 2-3 times. We can rule out slow plastic flow since the string was tensioned 6 times. If tension still drops, I suspect that the spring mechanism is not doing its job .

You really need to test whether the gripper is slipping to rule it out as the cause of the tension drop. Is it a linear pull or rotary pulling device? We are shooting blind since we do not even know what the machine looks like...
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Well I'm thinking it's more of a technique/clamping issue rather than a problem with the device. The device seems to pull tension fine as I did some testing with an electronic scale but I will reach out to the maker as well.
The system is lock out, once tension is reached there is no further tension applied.
I've tested the gripper now with the black mark and there is no slippage.

tennisbike said:
I think we are looking at two three things here. Apples and oranges .. These are is what I thought you wrote:

1. You used RT for years on rackets strung by other stringers. You specified 27kg reference tension and the racket came back, you pinged and showed 27 kg.

2. You string at 27 kg ref. tension, as you are pulling one string you observed the tension on electronic scale and the reading dropped to 23 kg.

3. You pinged the result string bed after strung and RT reads 23 kg.

What I simply suggest is that you ignore #2 for now and string your racket say 30 kg and see if RT will read higher than 23 kg. (make sure same string is used now as in #1.
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1. Yes, I've also strung myself on drop weights and eCPs with fixed clamping systems and I've always managed to get quite closed to pulled tension right off the stringer.
2. Correct although depending on the string it doesn't drop that much, sometimes it can just drop 1-2kg from the poly relaxing over 10 seconds.
3. I've never managed to get more than 23kg as a result no matter what tension I pull on the strings.
 
Just an update:

- The gripper itself is also not slipping.
- I've tested the crosses slipping through the clamp, and there is also no slippage.

The mains seem to be the problem. Even though the mains are not slipping through the clamp based on black marker marks there is a huge tension loss when tension is released.
I've rigged the electronic scale after pulling the center mains.
I pull tension on it, let's say 25kg.
I clamp in front of the scale the piece of string that is leading to the tensioner under tension, and the previous main with the clamp.
With the clamp on, the scale is dropping but still showing tension 23.5-24kg while the newly pulled main is still under tension.
As soon as I release the tension and the clamp takes over, the scale is showing 9kg!
Now the odd thing is even though there is no slippage, the black marks I've made on the strings haven't moved from the clamp.
If I string up the next main and pull 25kg tension on it, the scale does go up to maybe 15kg now, even though there is a clamp behind the scale.
 
@FIRETennis , buy Stringway flying clamps (one of them a triple clamp)

Edit: a flying clamp on the mains will "twist" when you release pulling tension. Normally this is corrected again on the next pull (especially if you have a cp with some overshoot)
A triple-clamp does not twist
edit2, so in fact you will need 2 triple-clamps..... It is an , investment, but these are superior clamps.
 
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MathieuR said:
@FIRETennis , buy Stringway flying clamps (one of them a triple clamp)

Edit: a flying clamp on the mains will "twist" when you release pulling tension. Normally this is corrected again on the next pull (especially if you have a cp with some overshoot)
A triple-clamp does not twist
edit2, so in fact you will need 2 triple-clamps..... It is an , investment, but these are superior clamps.
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Great suggestion. I will look into those. They are pricy indeed.
Are they comparable to fixed clamps in regards of tension holding?
Would I need to use a different technique for starting the mains and crosses in order to use the triple clamp?
 
I use SW clamps with my Pro Stringer, I have 2 triple clamps that I use mainly when doing the mains. I use the double clamp when doing the crosses as there is very little drawback in my experience due to the teeth of the clamp locking onto the crosses. I've strung racquets at up to 70lbs without problems. Providing your machine is pulling the correct tension its hard to see where else you could be loosing tension other than the clamps. In my experience there is still some drawback when using the SW triple clamps but it is minimised compared to using double clamps.

TD
 
Tennis_dude101 said:
I use SW clamps with my Pro Stringer, I have 2 triple clamps that I use mainly when doing the mains. I use the double clamp when doing the crosses as there is very little drawback in my experience due to the teeth of the clamp locking onto the crosses. I've strung racquets at up to 70lbs without problems. Providing your machine is pulling the correct tension its hard to see where else you could be loosing tension other than the clamps. In my experience there is still some drawback when using the SW triple clamps but it is minimised compared to using double clamps.

TD
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I am indeed suspecting the clamps are the issue.
The machine is fine, and I've tested the tension pulling with scales several times.
I've even rigged up a scale after stringing a few mains, and it's when releasing tensions and the clamps take over that the tension loss happens.
There is slippage so it could be due to twisting.
I didn't know the Gamma clamps would have this issue as they are quite popular even in Gamma's own Progression DW machines.
 
FIRETennis said:
I am indeed suspecting the clamps are the issue.
The machine is fine, and I've tested the tension pulling with scales several times.
I've even rigged up a scale after stringing a few mains, and it's when releasing tensions and the clamps take over that the tension loss happens.
There is slippage so it could be due to twisting.
I didn't know the Gamma clamps would have this issue as they are quite popular even in Gamma's own Progression DW machines.
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Any update for us? Did you find out what the issue was?
 
colabby said:
Any update for us? Did you find out what the issue was?
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Forgot to update the issue, sorry tennis guys & gals.
Was never an issue with their device, but the clamps in the kit.
The plastic style floating clamps are really not the best.
I ended up ordering ProStringer claw clamps but Stringway's metal clamps would also work (they were out of stock at the time).
I'm getting great consistent string jobs now.
The Easystringer guys were very helpful along the way.
I definitely recommend it for anyone looking to spend sub-400 on a great portable machine. If wanting to go higher end, then the ProStringer kit itself would be best but that's double the price.
 
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FIRETennis said:
Forgot to update the issue, sorry tennis guys & gals.
Was never an issue with their device, but the clamps in the kit.
The problem was the clamps. The plastic style floating clamps are really not the best.
I ended up ordering ProStringer claw clamps but Stringway's metal clamps would also were (they were out of stock at the time).
I'm getting great consistent string jobs now.
The Easystringer guys were very helpful along the way.
I definitely recommend it for anyone looking to spend sub-400 on a great portable machine. If wanting to go higher end, then the ProStringer kit itself would be best but that's double the price.
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Awesome. The easystringer is manual constant pull right? So easystringer + prostringer claw or SW clamps should do the job? Any other findings on the easystringer after having used it for a while? How long does it take you to string?
 
colabby said:
Awesome. The easystringer is manual constant pull right? So easystringer + prostringer claw or SW clamps should do the job? Any other findings on the easystringer after having used it for a while? How long does it take you to string?
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The easy stringer is not constant pull despite what some people try to claim.
 
colabby said:
Awesome. The easystringer is manual constant pull right? So easystringer + prostringer claw or SW clamps should do the job? Any other findings on the easystringer after having used it for a while? How long does it take you to string?
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No other issues. I can string multis and natural gut as well with it. The claws do leave some clamp marks on the gut but I can live with that.
I do about 2 frames a week max. so for me that's perfect. Takes about 35-40' per frame. About the same time as it would take me to do a frame on a drop-weight.
The constant pull thing, I guess the spring does keep the string under constant tension and it does indicate if there's a big loss in tension so you can give it another pump to add more tension.
 
@FIRETennis sorry to bother you, one more question: which claws did you get? 2X medium or 2X large? Starting clamp is not necessary right?
 
colabby said:
@FIRETennis sorry to bother you, one more question: which claws did you get? 2X medium or 2X large? Starting clamp is not necessary right?
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I have 2 medium but I would recommend 2 medium and 1 large. 2 mediums work on my Blade v7 16x19 but they are annoying with the top and bottom crosses of the RF97 and if I recall correctly a Pure Aero would have also needed a larger clamp.
You don't really need a starting clamp but if you can get one it can come in handy for pulling knots and such. Avoid Pro's Pro starting clamps, I have one and it's junk. Gamma starting clamps are great ~€50/$60.
 
@FIRETennis Sorry to revive this thread, but I also purchased an Easystringer and received it last week. I have been having very similar issues to you in that my resultant tensions dropped a lot despite consistently following the process (even adding extra lbs on the first and last mains as some other threads suggest. I have been on chat with their support but with no luck (they tried to help, even doing a video call, but ultimately couldn't explain why this happened - their final response was 'You're responsible of you stringing learning ', which wasn't helpful). I was wondering if the new clamps completely solved the issues for you.

To be clear, I would go string a racket at 45 lbs and then measure afterwards and it's around 34lbs. Unlike your case, for me the crosses had a bigger tension loss than mains. I used both RacketTuner and a StringMeter for measurement.
 
Saitamaxpunch1 said:
@FIRETennis Sorry to revive this thread, but I also purchased an Easystringer and received it last week. I have been having very similar issues to you in that my resultant tensions dropped a lot despite consistently following the process (even adding extra lbs on the first and last mains as some other threads suggest. I have been on chat with their support but with no luck (they tried to help, even doing a video call, but ultimately couldn't explain why this happened - their final response was 'You're responsible of you stringing learning ', which wasn't helpful). I was wondering if the new clamps completely solved the issues for you.

To be clear, I would go string a racket at 45 lbs and then measure afterwards and it's around 34lbs. Unlike your case, for me the crosses had a bigger tension loss than mains. I used both RacketTuner and a StringMeter for measurement.
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For me, ordering two medium metal clamps from Prostringer solved the issue.

Technique wise:
For the mains, I start with three mains in the frame, the two middle ones clamped in the middle with a starting clamp holding one side outside the frame, then pulling the first tension on the third main (if that makes sense).
I do 4 mains on one side, then move back to the side with the starting clamp and do 4 there.
When you start the top crosses, make sure you weave two crosses then pull tension on the second one only then clamp. Flying clamps need two strings to work.
I also use two clamps when doing crosses (one on each side of the frame).
If I want a 23kg result on RacquetTune, what I would get with a digital constant pull and fixed clamps, I usually pull 25kg to make up for the flying clamps and space between the clamp and the frame at times.

For a new string job, off the stringer RacquetTune will give you a better indication of achieved tension where StringMeter is good for checking quickly the relative drop in tension.
There could also be an issue that your device wasn't property calibrated. You can 'calibrate' it by putting an empty frame in the holder, taking a luggage scale and mounting the top to the top of the frame and tying a piece of extra polyester string to the bottom, enough to pull through one grommet hole and then around the tensioner to pull tension. You can pull tension a few times to make sure the knot on the bottom of the scale is very tight and then see what reading you get on the luggage scale compared to the tensioner. You can then move the sticker appropriately.
 
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Thank you @FIRETennis, appreciate you getting back to me so quickly - I may decide it's worth it to get the Prostringer clamps in the future

I've tried stringing today based on these instructions and am getting much closer to the reference tension. ES now has new clamps that come with the system, and suspect they are a bit better than the gammas, but I have to calibrate them very tight (to the point my hands shake to unclamp) to get them to minimise drawback. I'm still getting tension loss overall, but am aiming 3kg-ish above reference tension on mains and crosses to get to my desired tension + pulling an extra 3kg to 5kg on the tie off strings seems to bring me closer. Validating this with RacketTuner and Stringmeter after taking it off the mounts.

Wish there was a way to just get the tension that shows on the scale, but can live with this for now
 
Saitamaxpunch1 said:
Thank you @FIRETennis, appreciate you getting back to me so quickly - I may decide it's worth it to get the Prostringer clamps in the future

I've tried stringing today based on these instructions and am getting much closer to the reference tension. ES now has new clamps that come with the system, and suspect they are a bit better than the gammas, but I have to calibrate them very tight (to the point my hands shake to unclamp) to get them to minimise drawback. I'm still getting tension loss overall, but am aiming 3kg-ish above reference tension on mains and crosses to get to my desired tension + pulling an extra 3kg to 5kg on the tie off strings seems to bring me closer. Validating this with RacketTuner and Stringmeter after taking it off the mounts.

Wish there was a way to just get the tension that shows on the scale, but can live with this for now
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I wouldn't tighten the clamps so much that you need a lot of force to clamp and unclamp. This could damage your strings.
I also pull 2-3kg extra on the tieoff mains and cross. There is quite a lot of tension loss there. I'm sure there are much more experienced stringers here that use flying clamps that could provide some general tips but the above is the best I have found. The portability is amazing compared to a regular stringing machine and comparing to inconsistent string jobs that I used to get from various shops, the learning curve was worth every minute spent on it.
 
The Pro Stringer clamps are definitely better than Stringway clamps, imo, in how the clamp adjuster works. The claws do not pull on the strings too much when clamping, because of the tapered head. The Stringways are fixed width and thus pull on the adjacent strings quite a bit as you go along. I had my daughter string my 2 racquets, one with the Stringway clamps and the other with PS claws on a PS2.0, and a 3rd was done at my stringer's fixed clamp Wilson at the same tensions with same strings. I blind tested them and the Stringways produced a boardy feel, while the PS and Wilson were closely similar in feel. Performance wise, they didn't play noticeably different, but feel wise they did. I sold off the Stringways.
The large PS claw is better for the bigger gap racquets, but useless for tighter string patterns. So purchase only if you have open string patterns racquets, otherwise it's just another chunk of alloy sitting around. We use it for the top and bottom crosses and final mains with our racquets.

FIRETennis said:
For me, ordering two medium metal clamps from Prostringer solved the issue.
Click to expand...
 
Sardines said:
The Pro Stringer clamps are definitely better than Stringway clamps, imo, in how the clamp adjuster works. The claws do not pull on the strings too much when clamping, because of the tapered head. The Stringways are fixed width and thus pull on the adjacent strings quite a bit as you go along. I had my daughter string my 2 racquets, one with the Stringway clamps and the other with PS claws on a PS2.0, and a 3rd was done at my stringer's fixed clamp Wilson at the same tensions with same strings. I blind tested them and the Stringways produced a boardy feel, while the PS and Wilson were closely similar in feel. Performance wise, they didn't play noticeably different, but feel wise they did. I sold off the Stringways.
The large PS claw is better for the bigger gap racquets, but useless for tighter string patterns. So purchase only if you have open string patterns racquets, otherwise it's just another chunk of alloy sitting around. We use it for the top and bottom crosses and final mains with our racquets.
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Very well said and spot on. There was another shop that did a demo with the Stringway, Prostringer and Wilson Baiardo and they had similar results. They also mentioned that for some reason the tension stability of the stringbed was better with the Claws. I use two medium Claws for the RF97 and wish sometimes I'd have the large one for the top and bottom crosses. Due to the shape/angle of the frame, it's sometimes difficult to get any double clamp close to the frame on the first 3-4 crosses. I just pull a bit of extra tension on those to accommodate for the loss due to distance to the frame. I hope that's the correct approach.
 
FIRETennis said:
Very well said and spot on. There was another shop that did a demo with the Stringway, Prostringer and Wilson Baiardo and they had similar results. They also mentioned that for some reason the tension stability of the stringbed was better with the Claws. I use two medium Claws for the RF97 and wish sometimes I'd have the large one for the top and bottom crosses. Due to the shape/angle of the frame, it's sometimes difficult to get any double clamp close to the frame on the first 3-4 crosses. I just pull a bit of extra tension on those to accommodate for the loss due to distance to the frame. I hope that's the correct approach.
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Well, fixed clamps are the best because they can fit into tight spaces right on the grommet, something good flying clamps can't do well, since it relies on a tensioned parallel string to hold. However, once someone compensates for the tension loss by adjusting reference tension, there really isn't a difference in playability between fixed and flying, and the differences being stringing speed and for some consistency, especially when it comes to prestretching strings.
 
When doing compensating for tension loss by adjusting reference tension, how much do you guys worry that each string ends up being a different tension? Do they eventually all get balanced out anyways as you start playing?

I am getting most of my tension loss on crosses. I speculate that it's partially due to double clamps not being great for open string patterns (16x18 for example). When I clamp I'm really stretching both strings from their grommet position (imagine an hour glass shape). I assume a pro-stringer wide clamp or a triple clamp helps with this, but would be great to confirm if anyone else has experienced this.

Similarly, if I were to buy one medium, one large double clamp from Pro Stringer - would the large clamp also create tension loss given it's too wide for the tighter areas of the string bed.
 
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Sardines said:
Well, fixed clamps are the best because they can fit into tight spaces right on the grommet, something good flying clamps can't do well, since it relies on a tensioned parallel string to hold. However, once someone compensates for the tension loss by adjusting reference tension, there really isn't a difference in playability between fixed and flying, and the differences being stringing speed and for some consistency, especially when it comes to prestretching strings.
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There is a shop in Atlanta that uses Baiardo machines and PS Claws exclusively, not the Baiardo clamps. It’s the shop that sells PS Claws.
 
Makes sense to me. A shop selling PS claws showcasing the claws abilities is smart, especially if they are on social media etc.
Irvin said:
There is a shop in Atlanta that uses Baiardo machines and PS Claws exclusively, not the Baiardo clamps. It’s the shop that sells PS Claws.
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The Pro Stringer requires some sort of brace to hold the unit still during the pull, be it the racquet itself, a base lock etc. A 6 pt fixed clamp will block too many holes from the pull mechanism. Some people believe 6/8 pt is better than 2 pt mounts. Since I've had 2 to 6 pt stringing since my Jr days all the way to D1, and the differences are really about frame shape and durability, I've never had a problem with any mount, but definitely plenty of problems with lazy stringers.

struggle said:
That makes zero sense. May as well just string on a Pro Stringer as well, no?
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Well unless you're doing proportional/Sergetti method style stringing, the set tension would be equal for every string. Now if you take too long to string, there is tension loss in the strings anyhow. I notice a racquet strung under 20 minutes (my kids) is slightly tighter than when I dabble with 25-30 mins stringings, cos I drink coffee etc between, so I string 1lbs higher than when my kids string for me.
The best way to make sure you need the L claw is to measure your largest string gaps. I think the L is 21mm and the M is 16mm (I could be wrong so don't quote me!). All of our racquets need the L clamp for the last outside gaps. If yours don't, then get 2. An ideal setup is 2 M and 1 L, but we probably could do with just 2 Ms and live with a bit of stretching at the end strings.

Saitamaxpunch1 said:
When doing compensating for tension loss by adjusting reference tension, how much do you guys worry that each string ends up being a different tension? Do they eventually all get balanced out anyways as you start playing?

I am getting most of my tension loss on crosses. I speculate that it's partially due to double clamps not being great for open string patterns (16x18 for example). When I clamp I'm really stretching both strings from their grommet position (imagine an hour glass shape). I assume a pro-stringer wide clamp or a triple clamp helps with this, but would be great to confirm if anyone else has experienced this.

Similarly, if I were to buy one medium, one large double clamp from Pro Stringer - would the large clamp also create tension loss given it's too wide for the tighter areas of the string bed.
Click to expand...
 
There is "no way" you can convince "anyone" with any knowledge of stringing, tools, physics, and just plain common sense
that using floating clamps is in any way superior to fixed clamps.

I understand trying to "sell" them, but i fail to see it as a service to stringing customers in any fashion. It simply isn't.

If you want to sell such, set them up on a dropweight and have at it. Prove their real value, which is not as a better alternative
to fixed clamps, it's simply a better floating clamp......and even though i haven't touched one i do know that clamping to the machine
vs. another string would always be preferable in such a setting that allows for a Bairdo or similar.

Also, 6 point machines don't block holes unless you set them up that way.
 
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