Discussion in 'Racquets' started by Djokovicfan4life, Mar 28, 2008.
Add me to the Michael Valek fan club, top notch.
Before I pull the trigger on some Pacific pro 90s, does anyone here use these sticks? Currently use volkl pb 10 mid, wondering how they compare, been a long time since my vac pro days and wonder if the Pacific has a different feel? Also advice on string setups, usually go with a gut poly hybrid. Lastly, can anyone compare the 90 and 95? Thanks for all the help.
I've never hit w/ the 90, but there were a bunch of threads on the Pacific version a few years ago. A quick Google search gives me some links to a few of the threads:
Additionally, TW posted an extensive review on Facebook a few years ago (also found from the Google search):
As far as strings go...I'm a gut/poly guy myself, and prefer the 17g Pacific Tough Gut / 1.25mm Yonex Poly Tour Pro (aka, YPTP) combination. However, Tough Gut has been increasing in price a bunch lately, and the 17g seems hard to come by, so I've been experimenting w/ others. Nothing to write home about so far, although the new Wilson 17g looks promising. I'd reconsider Pacific Classic, but I can never find it in 17g.
I had a great time since summer on my Pacific X force with Babolat VS gut 1.30/YPT 1.25, but at the moment i m triying an hybrid with Head velocity multi/wilson revolve and it uis also very nice.
After trying more tha 40 frames for the last 5 years, i m commited to stick to the Pacific X force (i ve got 2, added some lead at 6 and 9 and are now 320 gr trung).
16*20 is the best string pattern for my game, lots of control but still spinny and powerful to play in clay courts.
The stiffness of the raquet (58 RA) make it barely impossible to have any arm issues if your technique is decent, and suits very much my game style (clay baseliner retiever). Besides it could be stringed with natural gut or muti that will break to fast in other sticks or be too powerful (so many times i read here how people like a string because is so "low powered" and get "control" with it.
Isn t better to have a low powered racket and adjust with a confort and powerful gut instead of trying to tame the power of a Aeropro with a Luxilon Alu power? a stiff racket needs a stiff poly to get control, bad bussiness for you body)
I encourage anyone to try this stick (or the previous Fischer model, pro 1).
Those rare moments you got evidence of the specifications of a Fischer frame must be cherished. This is the Pro 1 X-Lite which is just the Pro No1 mold with an unstrung weight of 260 gram. Too low for me, still think this stick is worth mentioning. Note the big tolerance of +- 6 gram.
Anyone know how the C10 Pro compares with the BXT X Tour Pro 97?
I’d say c10 is softer. I found 97 very stiff.
Its been a while since I last swung the C10 Pro (10 years?), but I'd agree w/ @michael valek on the feel. Of course, you'd have to lead the crap out of the X Tour 97 as its 15g lighter stock to get a full comparison.
I'm still using the Fischer Retro Pro Classic for doubles (essentially the X Tour 97), which I've leaded to 320g unstrung, and find it extremely solid & nimble at the net. Where it lacks (for me) is 'plow' off the ground. It can get pushed around a little vs a big hitter. Adding an extra 10g might help that, but I can't swing that kind of frame anymore. Also, I have had issues with control off the forehand side, which is mainly why I'm not using it in singles. In doubles, I'll one or two forehands every other game, so control isn't as big an issue as it is in singles.
From what I remember, the C10 was a tank, and I mean that in a good way. If you could handle the heft, you could simply bludgeon your opponent with it. Although 'nimble' would not be an adjective I'd use at net, is was extremely solid up there provided you didn't swing (i.e. volleyed correctly).
So, from my perspective, assuming stock weight/balance:
Volleys: X Tour 97
Forehands: C10 Pro
Serve: Slight edge to C10 Pro if you can get it moving
Spin: C10 Pro
Power: C10 Pro
Control: X Tour 97
If interested, I have a couple X Tour 97s you could get for a steal...
new treasure trove unveiled......
25 black granite pro 1 320g.
7 grip 2
1 grip 3
18 grip 4
and i think 5 m comp 95 330g
you know where to come.......
26 not 25 oops.
Wow, those are some nice frames! I have 3 of the 295g ones that I weighted up to 320g.
But...I'm really enjoying my FTs, so I better not...
Would be interested in knowing more about your experience with Pro No 1 FT. I have had it for almost 10 years and for last 4-5 years I have been exclusively playing with it. Before that I played with M Tour SL (320 gms) for few years, but there was always something about Pro No 1 FT that I could not figure out. I think M tour is more stable, softer frame overall but the Pro No 1 FT has a unique feel due to the "Frequency Tuning". The extra length also helps my serve. The sweet spot on FT is smaller compared to any other Pro No 1 or X Force Pro I have tried, but when you hit the sweet spot the feel is out of the world. The frame really rewards good footwork and early preparation. I have only 2 of these and they are both 10 years old. I have tried hard to move to a different frame but could not. Given that I am playing only once a week these days, I have given up my quest for a replacement and I am going to play with them until they break.
Email me for more!
That my friend is not a problem. You can refer to it as The Fischer Museum of Contemporary Art. Great collection.
Question about the 67 flex rating for the pro stock frame. That seems fairly stiff for a pro player frame, what's the feel like ?
Yeah, I've played w/ the M Pro No 1, the Black Granite Pro No 1, and all 3 versions of the X Force Pro, and I agree that the FT is the best of them. I know many felt the whole 'frequency tuning' was a gimmick, but there really is something to it as far as the dampening effect. And while I agree on the sweet spot comment, I've also noticed that off-center hits don't feel so 'off-center', as compared to others, again, likely due to the FT. The spin seems the same as all the others (same frame, same pattern), but there's definitely an increase in power, most likely due to the extended length. The big thing is the stability. I'm 'swinging away' against some heavy hitters, and the frame is just plowing through their shots, allowing me to stay up near the baseline. And at 5' 9", the extra length most definitely helps on the serve.
My only complaint would be at the net. Its solid, but sluggish. I can handle my volleys in singles, but in doubles, when I have to react quickly, I'm almost always late. So, loathe as I am to admit it, I've come around to playing 2 different frames for singles & doubles: Pro NO 1 FT for singles, and the Pro Classic Retro for doubles. The Retro is just so quick at the net. I lose the power of the FT, but in doubles, that doesn't seem to be as big an issue.
On a side note, the ones I have a 325g, not 305g. But I swapped out the pallets for the new Pacific PGS pallets, which lightened them up a bit, and I'm now at 320g (my ideal weight).
Thanks! Yeah, the 67 flex results in a different feel than I'm used to now, but its not as harsh as you might think. The best comparison I can give is they are similar to the old Hyper Pro Staff 6.1 + or the Yonex RD Power 10 Long (two frames I used extensively long ago). I think the extra stiffness comes from the stabilizer bars in the throat, and you can really feel that. There isn't much flex at the throat at all.
If I could handle the heft, I'd have used these for the past few years, but at 300g without grip & butt cap, they end up close to 330g unstrung (I prefer 4 1/2" grip, and these are 4 3/8", requiring me to add a shrink sleeve. I tried to use them as 4 3/8", but it just didn't feel right). I feel they are better suited to someone with a 'classic' game: Eastern grips, shorter swings, more into moving the ball around & finishing at the net. Great frames if you can handle the heft & have the right game.
Judging by your collection you must be a Fischer guru. I have a question for you.
Would you happen to know if the M Speed 105 UL plays anything like the M Speed 98 SL, more so from a flex perspective ?
'guru' might be generous. Fischer fanatic is probably closer. But, to your question...
I have hit w/ the 105UL only a handful of times, and that was years ago. A good friend of mine used them for years, until I finally convinced him to upgrade to the Pacific version (X Force Comp). If I remember correctly, the 105 felt more flexible than the 98 version (I'm comparing the red/green/black 105 to the green/yellow/black 98), not ridiculously so, but ever-so-slightly more flexible.
Now, some of that flex-feel may have come from it being a 16x19 in a 105 sq in frame, vs 16x20 in the 98. I really can't remember. But I do remember the spin generated from that thing. The open string pattern in an OS frame gave it an immense amount of spin.
I have the UL version and it's not as stable as you describe your SL is. My biggest complain is the power differential between a sweet spot hit vs an off center hit. The UL is definitely under powered and without good footwork there is nothing in your shots. The extra length that helps you from baseline hurts you when at the net. I do find it difficult to control volleys with this racket.
I clicked on your profile but don't see any option to send a private message. Can you please Private message me?
Thanks mate, appreciate your response.
These are some of my favorite frames ever made too bad they do not have the same pallet system as the later Fischers. I wish I could change the pallets out with some 5/8 pallets best feel and sound off of any frame I have ever hit with but 3/8 are just too small for me.
Those are pretty
What is the beam width and string pattern on those beauties?
They are 21MM constant beam 330g and 16x20 string pattern. They really are some of the nicest feeling frames ever.
Curious: Do they have a pallet system? If so, have you tried to fit the later Fischer pallet on them? I know the 1st Gen pallet system (3-piece w/ separate butt cap) are interchangeable w/ the 2nd Gen Fischer (and 1st Gen Pacific), the ones w/ the integrated butt cap.
No pallets on these frames might be part of the reason why they feel so good.
I have 6 of these too. Very nice frames had to add some weight because they are the 295g version.
A question - what frame from Fischer is the closest to Pacifics pro1 252? I liked that frame but it was too light. Or is there something with a constant beam with the same flex?
Using my Puma Becker supers now, anything from Fischer in the same ballpark for feel / plow etc?
The Pro 1 252 frames are tapered beam from 20 to 25 mm I thought. One of the best Fischer constant beam frames I have hit with is the Fischer Pro Extreme Ft frames. They were 20 mm constant beam 320g and 16x18 string pattern.
Yes pro 1 252 is tapered. I prefer constant beam.
My M-Pro No.1 Zombie frames.
the red and black one in the above picture is the best match up(it is a 20mm-25mm taper beam). try and find the 320 heavier one
I have one of these in my Fischer collection. It is a great way to get a junior started on the correct racquet path. Start them at 260g and eventually they will play 330g.
did anyone extend the lenght of a pacific x force (former fischer pro 1)?
I had a crazy idea, to cut the pallet in 2 pieces, leave the upper part in his position, but make new holes in the lower part of the pallet, to extend 1cm or 1.5cm. As it s a grip 2 and i m more used to paly grip 3, after i will put some balsa wood, and put again the grip and over grip.
Is the easiest way i found yo try how it plays extended to 70cm, if i do not like it, i could move it again to the original hole.
I try to make some pics anybondy is interested of all the process, let s see how it ends.
here some pics if anyone is interested :
1- cut the pallet with a cutter
2- cut also inside the pallet
3-make new holes
4- put the pallets with using the new holes
5- cut some balsa wood to increase grip size (if needeed), if not just put some silicone or similar in the gap created.
6 - use glue to stick the balsa wood, leave some hours, and put again grip
Advantages: is very easy and cheap, if extrended racket doesn t fit my game, i could go back to the original.
To do a more professional work next time it will be better to use a dremel machine, to make te cuts better.
Interesting approach, @markus666. Did you consider not cutting the pallet in half and drilling a 2nd set of holes above the top hole? This would leave a gap between the pallet & the 'end of the frame', but in all honesty, its not that noticeable (especially if you have one of the grip bands).
I've extended the Fischer/Pacific 1-piece and older Fischer 3-piece pallet systems with the existing PGS system by doing the following:
slide the neck and tube onto the pallet, and put the butt cap on.
measure your desired amount of extension (e.g., 27.5"), and slide the pallet down the hairpin until the buttcap is at the mark.
staple the neck & tube in place
using balsa wood, fill in the 'overhang' of the tube off the hairpin.
staple the buttcap on.
This leaves a gap as I described above, but its not noticeable at all.
The idea of cutting the pallet was to keep the upper part his place, and leave the gap in the middle, as it s firmer there than in the end. As i hit my backhand with one hand, i do not "use" the upper part of the grip. Anyway, with the balsa wood, grip and over cannot notice anything. I was not able to try it yet due to an ankle injury, i will post my opinion about how it plays as soon as i do (hopfully i will be back in January).
My uderstanding is that this 1 cm extra will increase swingweight 15 points (i read in another post that 0.5 inch/1,27cm equals to an increase of 20 points in SW), i hope i m able to hande that extra swingweight, but i will see once i play.
By the way, current pacficic x force grommets fit perfectly on a Fischer black granite, isn t?
Yes. In fact, the Pacific X Force grommets fit all iterations of the 16x20 Pro No 1.
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