HeadClassic
New User
Funny. I ran into this same problem 5 minutes ago
The Official Angell Users Club
- Thread starter The_Racketeer
- Start date
HeadClassic
New User
I think next time I will try to tie off the mains one hole higher to free up the tie off space for the crosses.
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Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
That may not be possible, since the grommet holes are small.
From my old post:
A small tip for stringing. There are blocked holes in TC 95 (and TC 97, I assume) 16x19, when stringing it 2 piece.
Do the Yonex loop with these. It doesn't eliminate the blocked holes, but makes it easier for the string to go through, since one of the blocking parts of string is quite long and thus easy to bend away (sorry, no pics, not native English speaker ).
From my old post:
A small tip for stringing. There are blocked holes in TC 95 (and TC 97, I assume) 16x19, when stringing it 2 piece.
Do the Yonex loop with these. It doesn't eliminate the blocked holes, but makes it easier for the string to go through, since one of the blocking parts of string is quite long and thus easy to bend away (sorry, no pics, not native English speaker
).SteveXtreme1978
Rookie
I am no expert at stringing but I do have a hybrid string setup and am thinking of getting a TC100. Does this racket need a special stringing technique. I usually give it to a stringer to do. I will be interested to hear expert views in regards to hybrid strings on a TC100 too. Thanks in advance.
Blocked holes usually aren't too big of an issue unless you're working with a really soft string.
I cut the tip of the string at an extreme angle so it is very sharp and then use pliers to push the string underneath the block.
If it is still really hard I have used an awl to try and create a little leverage on the blocking string when pushing the other underneath.
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I cut the tip of the string at an extreme angle so it is very sharp and then use pliers to push the string underneath the block.
If it is still really hard I have used an awl to try and create a little leverage on the blocking string when pushing the other underneath.
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matchpoint9
Rookie
While doing your mains, cut 2-3 inches of string and insert it in the hole that will get blocked. Finish working on your mains. When you get to it with the cross string, similar to the above comment, use an awl to pull out the main string blocking the hole. This creates leverage / some gap that you can work with. Remove the piece of string currently in the hole while quickly inserting your cross string. It's a space saver method or whatever is called, always worked with my TC95. Be careful when using an awl to pull out the string, you can easily scrape the string
Thanks! My problem is that I’m using poly mains and multi crosses, thus the cross is extremely flimsy and refuses to push through. I’ll try this method. Anyone else have any tricks?
ace18
Professional
I've owned and have done hybrid on the TC95, TC97 and TC100 and they are all a pain with this last cross. I have now widened the grommet opening on 7 throat. The current hole is tiny. I've also used chapstick on the end of the string, that helps the string slide easier. I have done many string jobs on my Angells and most of them have been very painful due to this hybrid issue.
matchpoint9
Rookie
Yup, multis are tough to deal with. In case you haven't seen it, it's basically what emhtennis said:
Toby14
Professional
I had big problems with multi in the beginning stringing TC95 and TC100 in a hybrid configuration.
However I finally figured out how to string these bad boys - this is how I do it:
1. When installing the last mains don't tie them off, but clamp them instead, I use two of these:
Gamma Stringers Starting Clamp
www.tennis-warehouse.com
2. Install the crosses, two holes will only be blocked by one string at the end, and you can use this tool (not absolutely necessary, but can be a help)
Pathfinder Guiding Awl
www.tennis-warehouse.com
3. When the last crosses are through the wholes, you can then tie off the mains and then the crosses. Once you see it live, it makes sense.
Hope this can help you out.
Cheers, Toby
That makes sense! Thanks Toby!I had big problems with multi in the beginning stringing TC95 and TC100 in a hybrid configuration.
However I finally figured out how to string these bad boys - this is how I do it:
1. When installing the last mains don't tie them off, but clamp them instead, I use two of these:
Gamma Stringers Starting Clamp
2. Install the crosses, two holes will only be blocked by one string at the end, and you can use this tool (not absolutely necessary, but can be a help)
Pathfinder Guiding Awl
3. When the last crosses are through the wholes, you can then tie off the mains and then the crosses. Once you see it live, it makes sense.
Hope this can help you out.
Cheers, Toby
alexmcnab
Rookie
On the last cross you can also use a blunt nose needle to keep the path clear. Before you block the grommet on the outside insert one from the inside of the frame and finish your mains.
When doing your last cross feed your string into the needle then pull the needle out from the inside. If your string is too thick to go inside the needle you can just push the string into the grommet as you slowly remove the needle and "follow it" through the grommet. Ive found the 15 gauge works best, you may need a little chapstick to help when inserting the needle for the first few times. They do bend and break eventually.
Blunt needle in the US
Blunt needle in the UK
When doing your last cross feed your string into the needle then pull the needle out from the inside. If your string is too thick to go inside the needle you can just push the string into the grommet as you slowly remove the needle and "follow it" through the grommet. Ive found the 15 gauge works best, you may need a little chapstick to help when inserting the needle for the first few times. They do bend and break eventually.
Blunt needle in the US
Blunt needle in the UK
Toby14
Professional
Tried these blunt needle, and they just did not work for me, broke all the time and har to get into the grommets. Actually tried a lot of different stringing methods and gismos, as I was getting desperate, my method with double starting clamps and Pathfinder Guiding Awl are expensive but the method works like a charm.
I have just ordered an ASL2, to replace the Pure Aero. I have played with the PA with for quite some time. I hope the ASL will approximately have the characteristics, but a little softer for my shoulder.
I played with RPM blast @25kg. I didn’t dare to go any softer as I was afraid I then couldn’t control my shots.
What string and tension would you recommend for the ASL2?
I played with RPM blast @25kg. I didn’t dare to go any softer as I was afraid I then couldn’t control my shots.
What string and tension would you recommend for the ASL2?
topspn
Hall of Fame
It will be down right plush comparatively and still a hard hitting stick
ElMagoElGato
Semi-Pro
It’s a classic topic in the stringing forum. The best answer would be path-finder awls. Many stringers just cut the end sharply and push it in. I use ribbon to pull down over wrapping strings.
topspn
Hall of Fame
Blade has better authority hitting the ball so more power and also more control due to the tight 16x19. K7 a bit easier spin perhaps and comfort is a tie. Feel the blade is terrific on feel
tennis347
Semi-Pro
Thanks for your feedback. I thought maybe the K7 Red would have had a little more power due to the more open string pattern. The Blade has a higher swing weight which will give more power potential. Obviously any customization could change things a bit. I have 2 Blades and just bought 2 K7 Red frames used for a good price. I never tried an Angell frame and wanted finally experience it. I like the new Blades a lot with upgraded technology and the lower flex which enhances the comfort and feel.
topspn
Hall of Fame
You will like the flexy easy to use K7. Blade is just a bit more of a scalpel in play with really good feel. I have mine up to 12oz with a leather grip, OG and weight. Also had my old K7 in that 12oz class
tennis347
Semi-Pro
I have kept my Blades stock as there is ample swing weight. The K7 Red might need a little weight 3 and to 9 to bring up the swing weight. I played with the Head Prestige Classic many years ago and I someone told me that the K7 has a similar feel to the Prestige with the soft flex. I have a little bit of shoulder issue so I know that K7 will help in that regard.
Just ordered mine as well. Eager to compare it to my similarly weighted V3 TC95. I'm predicting more similarities than differences, but we'll see.
I'm about to order a racket, how do you tell Angell the specific of the racket? is it somewhere in checkout or message to fb? mainly I want a matching racket with 290swing weight for TC100 70RA 310g/315mm(9HL). And this racket spec should play similar to Babolat PAT 2016 right? thanks
Gee
Hall of Fame
You can configure and order your racquet from the webshop on the Angell website. You can also leave a note with your specific wishes during the order process.
topspn
Hall of Fame
If your previous TC100 was purchased from Angell and not used then just write in the notes section of order you want a match with SW you want. As to playing like a PAT, not sure he can Houdini that one
Thank you guys, I am asking Mr. Angell if what could be the lightest SW for that specs, I want a little lighter than PAT but more hefty than normal PA that's why I want that 310g/315 config. PAT is stable and can give big shots but quite tiring after few sets or long rally, PA gives me jarring on off center shots or return serve specially on heavy hitters. Thanks for the input, I hope Angell will give me a response later so I order a pair. On side note, is there anoter 25% sale like wimbledon final today?
Before I pull the trigger, any difference between RA 70 and RA63? planning to buy the V3 TC 100 310g/315mm and I want to know the difference from swingweight to performance like free power etc. I think I saw that V2 RA 63 has heavier SW but that was changed on V3 where RA70 has heavier SW? thanks
V3 swing weights are very similar, there’s really only a couple of pts between one frame and the next.
Playability wise 70RA is a little crisper/direct response but still comfortable.
Thanks ed70.
Btw, another quick question, I do have PAT 2016 that has 328SW base on specs, I changed the default synthetic grip to a wilson leather which increased the weight overall but increased it's HL balance, and added OG on it, does it increase SW or decrease or no change at all? It feels more maneuverable than before. Thanks
Btw, another quick question, I do have PAT 2016 that has 328SW base on specs, I changed the default synthetic grip to a wilson leather which increased the weight overall but increased it's HL balance, and added OG on it, does it increase SW or decrease or no change at all? It feels more maneuverable than before. Thanks
topspn
Hall of Fame
It does not effect SW, simply effects the balance and you made it more HL ergo feels more maneuverable.
Just received the ASL2. Truly a beautiful frame; better in person than online, which I wasn't expecting. I agree that it'll probably need some weight at 12 eventually but I'm going to try and play a few matches before modifying. Unfortunately I won't be able to get it strung before my tri-level match tomorrow.
Now trying to decide between Max Power 1.25, Hexagon X 1.28 and Black Knight 1.28. Local stringers have been rough on the Angell grommets, so I'll probably try the round Max Power first.
Now trying to decide between Max Power 1.25, Hexagon X 1.28 and Black Knight 1.28. Local stringers have been rough on the Angell grommets, so I'll probably try the round Max Power first.
tpro2000
Rookie
Ugh, rough on the grommets? How so??
I live in a relatively small town without a huge array of available stringers. Closest tennis center, I believe, has younger people learning to string to ease burden on main stringer. In my experience with my TC95/100, shaped polys seem to be more problematic with excessive stretching/damaging grommets. Either way, not a big deal, since I always order at least 2 spare grommets with each new racket.
tpro2000
Rookie
Wow that stinks. I mean, it's nice that you're tolerant of it - so many aren't!
Ha I'm tolerant for the time being! It all depends on how many string jobs I can get per grommet set. To date, I haven't had to replace any grommets, but my TC95 is getting closer after 4-5 restrings. I've been close to pulling trigger on my own stringer several times, but objectively I just don't have the patience.
tpro2000
Rookie
What part of the grommet do they actually damage?
The protruding internal piece (obviously I'm not a stringer). Looking closely, they seem to struggle with tying poly knots, as grommet tubes nearly transected adjacent to knots.
tpro2000
Rookie
Gotcha. That can be hard for newer stringers, tying off at least. Some companies grommet pieces stretch from just using cheap material, but I haven't noticed that from stringing the Angell's I have
DJ-
Hall of Fame
Here is an old post fron an old angell campaigner ;-) @haqq777
Just don't use very sharp strings like ultra cable. I have used cyclone tour 16g 3 times now with no issues.
Just tell your stringer to gently thread the strings through the holes then do the rest which involves more physical force.
DJ-
Hall of Fame
DJ-
Hall of Fame
Cyclone tour is gear shaped. There are some really sharp ones. As mentioned by @topspn I also use an experienced guy who strings at the AO and he is great. The grommets are the only flaw at Angell. Everything else is perfect. I have played with crappy grommets and it should not affect playability only string life
joohan
Hall of Fame
I had Aerogel 300 Tour. It was 16x18 and a very sweet feeling frame (like most Aerogels or 4D Aerogels). I regret selling it but it was early days of my tennis and wanted to see what else is out there. I went through Aerogel 4D 100, 4D 200 and then onto Biomimetic 300 Tour. Great racquets, very high on my personal hall-of-fame list.
DJ-
Hall of Fame
Can't go wrong with dunlop or angell. I have also used a regular dunlop bio 16x19 weighted up, nice frame. Love my ag300 16x18 though little lead at 3/9 and 12. Hits like a pro stock. If I was playing 4-6 times a week I'd probably even add the 4d100
darklore009
Hall of Fame
I have both TC95 with 70RA and 63 RA (bought from topspn, great guy btw). I can switch between them both seamlessly as both of them has the specs as I wanted to be at: 320g 310mm balance, 4 1/2 grip size. The thing I notice is the 63RA is tad muted/soft than the 70RA, but not much. Its always nice to have both rackets have dead on in specs than something like Wilson with their quality control.
