The Official Angell Users Club

RF_PRO_STAFF

Hall of Fame
I'm pretty sure Paul can get you pretty close to whatever you want. Fwiw, my TC95 16x19s came in at 310g/315mm, and I made them 315g and maintained the balance. For my 320g/310mm TC95 18x20s, I ended up removing lead from the pallet and adjusting to 315g/315mm again. But you don't really want to have to crack the pallets and do all of that, so I'd go with the lighter 310g; you can easily add a little lead to the head and under the grip to dial things in.
Thanks, yeah 310g is probably the better option. Chances are very big I'm going to add some weight but it's good to be able to go back to lighter weight again without too much hassle.
 

tpro2000

Rookie
hey guys, has anyone compared the TC100 to any of the Phantoms? Specifically the 100p with the 16x18 pattern. or even the 97? Thanks
 

Gee

Hall of Fame
Nothing is going to be quite as menacing as that TC95 16x19. It's been almost a year since I sold my TC95 18x20s, and all I wanted was to find something slightly more forgiving. The UT was that (arguably), but it didn't hit the same quality ball as the TC95. I've been on and off with a pair of Touch Prestige Pros of late, but the 95" head size becomes an issue once again if I'm not playing multiple times a week. You ask about the 360+ PMP? I don't know. Yeah, the head size is now 98", but it still seems spec'd out for control, control, control, which is fine, but I think I'd stick with your TC95 over it. If the swing weight of your v2 is too high, look into the black/copper v3. The average swing weight of those was around 295; mine were actually 293.

My main frames have a uniform flex (very similar to the TC95) with a 16x19 pattern that is more tempered than the TC95 while providing adequate pop--noticeably more than the UT, imo. And they have the same 97" head size as your UTs (same mold), which seems negligible in difference over a 95", but it makes a difference. My UP 16x19s seem leagues more forgiving than the TC95/PP/etc. I think you'd love it. Either it or one of the new PK Ki Q+ Tours (300/315) or the new Black Ace Pro.

I still miss my TC95s and sometimes wonder if I made the right decision, but after a year, I'm pretty close to UP 16x19 commitment.
Yes I also was intrigued by the new PK Black Ace Pro as an alternative to the UP 16x19 (that is not available in my region).

I don't doubt it'll have an incredible feel because of the RA57 but,... is the power/plowthrough sufficient to me? Besides I wonder if the Kinetics doesn't rob the feel too much.

From all your helpful comments @galapagos @StanAO14 @Happi @Pneumated1 @Return_Ace I conclude that a TC95 16m with a lower sw like 295-300 will probably be my best option (and then I save myself a lot of hassle by demoing other frames, getting used to those ones, searching for the right string etc.).
 
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Pneumated1

Hall of Fame
Yes I also was intrigued by the new PK Black Ace Pro as an alternative to the UP 16x19 (that is not available in my region).

I don't doubt it'll have an incredible feel because of the RA57 but,... is the power/plowthrough sufficient to me? Besides I wonder if the Kinetics doesn't rob the feel too much.

From all your helpful comments @galapagos @StanAO14 @Happi @Pneumated1 @Return_Ace I conclude that a TC95 16m with a lower sw like 295-300 will probably be my best option (and then I save myself a lot of hassle by demoing other frames, getting used to those ones, searching for the right string etc.).

I think that's a wise decision, and I agree that the BA Pro may not offer the pop of a lot of other modern player frames. It's unfortunate that you can't get the UP 16x19. I think it could possibly be the one you're looking for, but until then, I suggest a black/copper TC95 with a lower swing weight.
 

comgeek

New User
Hi Guys! recently got a TC95. I realised my grip size is too small and would like to change the pallets. Does anyone know what kind of grip pallets are compatible with the racket?
 

esm

Legend
Hi Guys! recently got a TC95. I realised my grip size is too small and would like to change the pallets. Does anyone know what kind of grip pallets are compatible with the racket?
you can email Angell and they should advise you how to purchase new pallet from their website - you just need to decide on the grip/pallet size and the pallet shape.
 

comgeek

New User
you can email Angell and they should advise you how to purchase new pallet from their website - you just need to decide on the grip/pallet size and the pallet shape.
Thanks! but I live in asia and shipping is going to cost a bomb for just a pallet haha, so was wondering if any other pallets are compatible with the racket
 

ChrisG

Professional
Ordering a TC95 soon. Few questions:

- On the Angell website it says 20mm tapered beam. Does anyone know the exact beam profile?
- I'm going for grip shape B. Is a 4 1/4 Angell just as big as a 4 1/4 Wilson or slightly bigger/smaller?
- I tend to play with mostly 1.20mm strings but read that the 16x19 pattern on the TC95 is quite open. Thicker gauge strings needed to compensate in your experiences?
Grip size are usually smaller on the TC line.
Regarding strings, i used to play 1.28 and 1.25 on my TC 95 16x19, but I bought a used one with hyper g 1.20 and really enjoyed it.
Talking to the seller, he told me that it reduced the SW so it would compensate the added pop of a thin string. So you might try first your usual strings.
TC95 are very versatile, I hit with a delpo style flat FH without any problem with this open pattern. The only thing to really care about is the natural power of the frame, you really need to have a sound technique on your stroke, or the balls might fly quite easily. I thinks that's where the complains about the high launch come from.
they are not perfect, but they are very good frames.
I think I could trim my collection to just the TC95 and the I.prestige MP (an UT)
 

RF_PRO_STAFF

Hall of Fame
Grip size are usually smaller on the TC line.
Regarding strings, i used to play 1.28 and 1.25 on my TC 95 16x19, but I bought a used one with hyper g 1.20 and really enjoyed it.
Talking to the seller, he told me that it reduced the SW so it would compensate the added pop of a thin string. So you might try first your usual strings.
TC95 are very versatile, I hit with a delpo style flat FH without any problem with this open pattern. The only thing to really care about is the natural power of the frame, you really need to have a sound technique on your stroke, or the balls might fly quite easily. I thinks that's where the complains about the high launch come from.
they are not perfect, but they are very good frames.
I think I could trim my collection to just the TC95 and the I.prestige MP (an UT)
I will try black YPTP 1.25 for a first string job then, I'm familiar with that string. On the launch angle: I'm pretty confident I'll be able to work with that.

I only have two more doubts. The first is whether I should go for my usual 4 1/4 or go a size up to 4 3/8. I've been using 4 1/4 since I can remember but I got used to that in my teen years (still only 23 now). Recently held some racquets that are 4 3/8 and I feel like it could possibly be better for my arm, because it's more natural to the size of my hand. But then again, I don't know if I want to take the risk ordering a bigger grip size on this custom TC95, with the possiblity of regretting it later. But Pneumated and you saying the grip sizes on this line are a bit smaller does worry me a bit.

My other doubt is:
- Just order one for now, see how much I'll like/love it and if I love it enough; order one more. That will cost me a bit more though.
- Order two matched ones and hope I love them. If I don't, that won't be too nice and I'll lose money selling them again.

I'm fairly confident I'll like them though. Anyone with thoughs on what would be sensible choices?
 

Pneumated1

Hall of Fame
I will try black YPTP 1.25 for a first string job then, I'm familiar with that string. On the launch angle: I'm pretty confident I'll be able to work with that.

I only have two more doubts. The first is whether I should go for my usual 4 1/4 or go a size up to 4 3/8. I've been using 4 1/4 since I can remember but I got used to that in my teen years (still only 23 now). Recently held some racquets that are 4 3/8 and I feel like it could possibly be better for my arm, because it's more natural to the size of my hand. But then again, I don't know if I want to take the risk ordering a bigger grip size on this custom TC95, with the possiblity of regretting it later. But Pneumated and you saying the grip sizes on this line are a bit smaller does worry me a bit.

My other doubt is:
- Just order one for now, see how much I'll like/love it and if I love it enough; order one more. That will cost me a bit more though.
- Order two matched ones and hope I love them. If I don't, that won't be too nice and I'll lose money selling them again.

I'm fairly confident I'll like them though. Anyone with thoughs on what would be sensible choices?

The Angell site claims the 'B' shape is compatible with Dunlop, Wilson, Yonex, and Babolat. Imo, it's closer to Dunlop, as I've mentioned, but it's interesting that Dunlop L4 always seems a fraction small for me (as was the Angell B--talking a fraction small, hardly noticeable), while Wilson and Yonex L4 are perfect. My former Babolat PCTs in L4 always seemed slightly large even with a Skin Feel grip. This is just how my hand perceives things; yours may be different. My suggestion is if you use thinner grips, e.g., leathers, I would go up to L3. But if you like synthetics, and especially if you use an over grip, your standard L2 should be fine because you can increase thickness just a touch, which should be all you'd need.

I think buying single vs. a pair depends on your shipping costs. Paying shipping to the U.S., I'd only want to pay it once, so I'd personally go with the pair, but if I recall, you're in Europe, so I have no idea what you'd pay. I'd be surprised if you didn't want a second though. Happy decision making!
 
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esm

Legend
I will try black YPTP 1.25 for a first string job then, I'm familiar with that string. On the launch angle: I'm pretty confident I'll be able to work with that.

I only have two more doubts. The first is whether I should go for my usual 4 1/4 or go a size up to 4 3/8. I've been using 4 1/4 since I can remember but I got used to that in my teen years (still only 23 now). Recently held some racquets that are 4 3/8 and I feel like it could possibly be better for my arm, because it's more natural to the size of my hand. But then again, I don't know if I want to take the risk ordering a bigger grip size on this custom TC95, with the possiblity of regretting it later. But Pneumated and you saying the grip sizes on this line are a bit smaller does worry me a bit.

My other doubt is:
- Just order one for now, see how much I'll like/love it and if I love it enough; order one more. That will cost me a bit more though.
- Order two matched ones and hope I love them. If I don't, that won't be too nice and I'll lose money selling them again.

I'm fairly confident I'll like them though. Anyone with thoughs on what would be sensible choices?
if you are ordering new from Angell, then you can always order a different size pallet/butt cap, so you have it to change if you don't like the grip size you ordered with the TC95 (it is a pretty easy process).
re: matching TC95, as long as you keep the "serial number", you can always contact Paul, he should be able to check the spec of your first one and to match the 2nd one when you are ready to make the purchase. suppose you'd have pay the delivery twice, but i think that is a small price to pay if you are not sure if you will like the first TC95 or not.
 

RF_PRO_STAFF

Hall of Fame
The Angell site claims the 'B' shape is compatible with Dunlop, Wilson, Yonex, and Babolat. Imo, it's closer to Dunlop, as I've mentioned, but it's interesting that Dunlop L4 always seems a fraction small for me (as was the Angell B--talking a fraction small, hardly noticeable), while Wilson and Yonex L4 are perfect. My former Babolat PCTs in L4 always seemed slightly large even with a Skin Feel grip. This is just how my hand perceives things; yours may be different. My suggestion is if you use thinner grips, e.g., leathers, I would go up to L3. But if you like synthetics, and especially if you use an over grip, your standard L2 should be fine because you can increase thickness just a touch, which should be all you'd need.
I usually play with synthetic grips but there are some frames that I really enjoy a leather grip on. My aim with the TC95 for now is just synthetic. You're right, L2 should work, I could always do something to get a bit thicker grip. Way easier to size up than to size down.
 

RF_PRO_STAFF

Hall of Fame
I think buying single vs. a pair depends on your shipping costs. Paying shipping to the U.S., I'd only want to pay it once, so I'd personally go with the pair, but if I recall, you're in Europe, so I have no idea what you'd pay. I'd be surprised if you didn't want a second though. Happy decision making!
Correct, I'm in Europe. But since Brexit, there's a reasonable chance I have to pay additional costs to import the product into my country. You can get lucky but also get disappointed. Especially the bigger packages seem to get picked out. Shipping costs are also not that cheap.

re: matching TC95, as long as you keep the "serial number", you can always contact Paul, he should be able to check the spec of your first one and to match the 2nd one when you are ready to make the purchase. suppose you'd have pay the delivery twice, but i think that is a small price to pay if you are not sure if you will like the first TC95 or not.
I suppose just ordering one for now is indeed more sensible. Since I'm not buying one to be my main frame (they could become though, you never know), I'm better off not going all out yet haha.
 

cha cha

Professional
Be absolutely sure you'll pay the customs. Angell ship through DHL or UPS, and there is no way these companies will spare you the customs proceedings.
With UPS, the process will be a little less smooth and a little less expensive. I'm in the Czech Republic and I ended up paying about 15% on top of the price paid to Angell.
With DHL, the delivery was smooth, and it cost me mere 30% on top of the original price.
 
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ChrisG

Professional
I'd buy one first, even if they resell quite well.
Regarding grip, I enjoy leather on all my frames, so I'd choose the bigger grip. Also Babolat syntec team is a very nice thin synthetic grip close to the leather imho so you'll get both options. I would definitely order some spare grommets as they wear out quickly.
 

Gee

Hall of Fame
I'd buy one first, even if they resell quite well.
Regarding grip, I enjoy leather on all my frames, so I'd choose the bigger grip. Also Babolat syntec team is a very nice thin synthetic grip close to the leather imho so you'll get both options. I would definitely order some spare grommets as they wear out quickly.
Don't you use an overgrip with your leather grip?
 
J

joohan

Guest
Be absolutely sure you'll pay the customs. Angell ship through DHL or UPS, and there is no way these companies will spare you the customs proceedings.
With UPS, the process will be a little less smooth and a little less expensive. I'm in the Czech Republic and I ended up paying about 15% on top of the price paid to Angell.
With DHL, the delivery was smooth, and it cost me mere 30% on top of the original price.

Was this after Brexit? Only paid standard Angell delivery fees some three/four years ago shipped to Slovakia.
 

cha cha

Professional
Was this after Brexit? Only paid standard Angell delivery fees some three/four years ago shipped to Slovakia.
Yip, this year.
I'd suggest finding a friend with a UK address and having them send it to EU as a gift.
Paul goes out of his way to put as little on the invoice as humanly possible, but it does say Angell sports ltd.
The customs officers may in reality charge as much as they well please. And the carrier will, of course, charge you for representation during the proceedings.
 
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J

joohan

Guest
Yip, January of this year.

Good to know and too bad. Lots of good tennis, music and bicycle shops in UK but couldn't care less if customs are involved. Have had my fair share buying stuff from US...
 

cha cha

Professional
I will forever envy all the Americans out here for being able to just log on TW, and bam, in two days the item is at the porch, free shipping.
I know Angell UK is another story, but I literally paid USD 120 for the privilege of getting the racket into the EU. All worth it, of course. : - )
 

topspn

G.O.A.T.
I will forever envy all the Americans out here for being able to just log on TW, and bam, in two days the item is at the porch, free shipping.
I know Angell UK is another story, but I literally paid USD 120 for the privilege of getting the racket into the EU. All worth it, of course. : - )
:X3:
 

RF_PRO_STAFF

Hall of Fame
Be absolutely sure you'll pay the customs. Angell ship through DHL or UPS, and there is no way these companies will spare you the customs proceedings.
With UPS, the process will be a little less smooth and a little less expensive. I'm in the Czech Republic and I ended up paying about 15% on top of the price paid to Angell.
With DHL, the delivery was smooth, and it cost me mere 30% on top of the original price.
Luckily someone in my country offered to place an order; for me, another person and himself. So we're splitting all the extra costs that will occur.
 
J

joohan

Guest
I'd suggest finding a friend with a UK address and having them send it to EU as a gift.

Tried that, from US. Even kindly asked the gentleman to write it in plain english - "I send this as a GIFT" (read in thick slavic accent to complete the image...) - didn't really help. Czech customs in Prague, no charge only up to some 40 Euro of value (1000 Czech crowns) even if it's a gift. The sender had to provide a list of items with thier retail value (wonderful guy, sorry for the trouble)...so I ended up paying import charges and charges for the customs process. Slovakia is no better, really. Once swapped frames with a guy from Switzerland (not in EU)...had to prove that the frame I received is not brand new. Luckily for me, a bit of clay on the bumper guard was deemed a sufficient proof. Done with this for good...
 

crompy

New User
I will try black YPTP 1.25 for a first string job then, I'm familiar with that string. On the launch angle: I'm pretty confident I'll be able to work with that.

I only have two more doubts. The first is whether I should go for my usual 4 1/4 or go a size up to 4 3/8. I've been using 4 1/4 since I can remember but I got used to that in my teen years (still only 23 now). Recently held some racquets that are 4 3/8 and I feel like it could possibly be better for my arm, because it's more natural to the size of my hand. But then again, I don't know if I want to take the risk ordering a bigger grip size on this custom TC95, with the possiblity of regretting it later. But Pneumated and you saying the grip sizes on this line are a bit smaller does worry me a bit.

My other doubt is:
- Just order one for now, see how much I'll like/love it and if I love it enough; order one more. That will cost me a bit more though.
- Order two matched ones and hope I love them. If I don't, that won't be too nice and I'll lose money selling them again.

I'm fairly confident I'll like them though. Anyone with thoughs on what would be sensible choices?

When I first got my TC95 I was coming from a Wilson Blade 98 with a 4 1/2 but I used a leather grip + overgrip on it. So when I ordered the Angell I got the B shape size 4 1/2 with the default PU grip type, with the same overgrip it actually felt BIGGER than what I was used to because of all the padding of the PU grip. All good now I got used to it, but it took some getting used to that's for sure

I just strung mine with YPTP 1.20 but just started to rain so haven't had the chance to try it out yet!!
 
I have 4 TC95 320g/310 mm and I used Tourna Big Hitter Black 7 and suddenly I had problems with my shoulder. Right now I play with hybrid (multi/BHB7) but it's difficult to control my strokes.
What arm friendly string do you recommend it ?
 

Classic-TXP-IG MID

Hall of Fame
I have 4 TC95 320g/310 mm and I used Tourna Big Hitter Black 7 and suddenly I had problems with my shoulder. Right now I play with hybrid (multi/BHB7) but it's difficult to control my strokes.
What arm friendly string do you recommend it ?

What string pattern do you have?

For the 16x19, I would use a thicker gauge string. Usually with the Angells people recommend round strings due to the softness of the grommets (which then get damaged or destroyed more easily by shaped polys). Strings that might be good (depending on what you prefer): MSV Co-Focus, RS Lyon, Tourna Black Zone, Luxilon 4G (or 4G Soft); Babolat Origin, Gosen OG Micro, Gosen AK Pro, Ashaway Mono Gut ZX, Weiss Cannon Explosiv, Yonex PTP (Yellow or Black - depending on whether you like a more lively response or more muted), Iso Speed Cream, and then Hybrid setups/ combinations of the strings listed previously.

For the 18x20, I have used MSV Co-Focus 1.18mm string (full bed) and it was excellent. I have also used hybrids with a multi/ syn gut/ or those mixed strings (like Babolat Origin or Ashaway MonoGut ZX, etc) in the crosses. Other strings that could be good: Similar to above but in the thinnest gauges possible (1.18mm or below - maybe a 1.25mm in the crosses if smaller not available).

Hope that helps.
 

Sardines

Hall of Fame
I have 4 TC95 320g/310 mm and I used Tourna Big Hitter Black 7 and suddenly I had problems with my shoulder. Right now I play with hybrid (multi/BHB7) but it's difficult to control my strokes.
What arm friendly string do you recommend it ?
I suggest you stop playing and fix the shoulder with physio therapy first for a few weeks. Playing on the edge of physical trouble is just not wise.
 

djNEiGht

Legend
Thanks! but I live in asia and shipping is going to cost a bomb for just a pallet haha, so was wondering if any other pallets are compatible with the racket
none that I am aware of. You could try to see if any come close and maybe modify. Or I would just use a half/full size heat shrink. Note that they will add weight
 

esm

Legend
..... Or I would just use a half/full size heat shrink. Note that they will add weight
yep, the heat shrink after trimmed may add around 10-12g to the hand - to offset that additional weight and depends on the original spec, you can open up the Angell pallet and remove the weight block(s) in the hairpin.

check this post - there are some pix..
#201
 

RF_PRO_STAFF

Hall of Fame
I emailed Paul about the exact beam profile on the TC95 and he answered: The V3 TC95 has a 20mm beam width around the top half of the hoop and then starts to gently taper to 23mm at the top of the handle.

I don't know if this info has been shared here before but for those who are interested; there it is.
 

Rysty

Rookie
I emailed Paul about the exact beam profile on the TC95 and he answered: The V3 TC95 has a 20mm beam width around the top half of the hoop and then starts to gently taper to 23mm at the top of the handle.

I don't know if this info has been shared here before but for those who are interested; there it is.

This is very strange... mine are about 18-19 mm at the tip and exactly 20 mm just above the handle. Both V2 and V3 TC95.
 

esm

Legend
just measured both of mine V2 TC95 16m - they were used and purchased from different people from different countries, months apart.
both measurements are the same via elec digital calliper
top = 20.3
@9th/10th cross = 20.2
above handle (@ the last letter "L") = 22.0
 

myth

Professional
Has anyone got any pictures of the TC 90?
Has it got a box beam similar to the PS?
What's the beam widts?

Thanks!!
 

cha cha

Professional
I am sure there are people more qualified than me to answer you. I have not held those classic frames for years.
The Angells are surely more rounded as seen in the pictures. Quality, foam filled, frames without a doubt, apart from the terrible grommets.
I would say that they are larger than 90. My previous Blade 93 was exactly the same size.
If you spec them close to those classics, they should feel quite similar. Stable and sweet as long as you hit the centre.
The Angells sure feel larger than 90, especially on spin shots. Serving is a dream, so is volleying and all attacking in fact.
Not excellent for slice (for some reason), catastrophic on defence as should be expected.
 
J

joohan

Guest
Has anyone got any pictures of the TC 90?
Has it got a box beam similar to the PS?
What's the beam widts?

Thanks!!

The beam width is 19 mm if my memory serves me well and, as has been pointed out, it’s a “D” beam, not a box beam. It has pretty unique feel and plays as close to PS 90 as specs allow...but it’s not a carbon copy (pun intended), especially feel-wise.

Another thing (post above) - I found that TC90 had smaller sweetspot and was a bit harder to play with overall than my BLX PS90 (even with TC90 being 10g of static weight lighter at 330g unstrung and 16x18 pattern). But that was some 4 years ago so things might have changed since then.
 

RF_PRO_STAFF

Hall of Fame
TC95 16x19 63RA is arriving soon. What would you guys suggest for tension in comparison to stringing the Yonex racquets in my signature? First string job will probably be RS Lyon 1.25. I string my crosses 1.5kg lower on all my Yonex racquets but I'm leaning towards same tension for m/c on the TC95, after reading the general perception about the launch angle.
 
I assume this has been talked about before, but anyway...
Anyone notice a difference between the feel of the copper and octane paint jobs?
I have 2 TC100'S, the copper speccing at 320.4g / 310mm and 299 SW, and the octane 321.7g /310mm / 298 SW.
I bought them separately but asked the octane to match the specs of the 1st (the copper).

I find myself reaching more and more for the octane as it seems to have a more plush feeling to it and just more "solid" i guess you could say. I also feel a weight difference but I can't imagine I would notice 1.3g if that's all it was.

I'm thinking of selling the copper and buying a second octane.
 

flanker2000fr

Hall of Fame
TC95 16x19 63RA is arriving soon. What would you guys suggest for tension in comparison to stringing the Yonex racquets in my signature? First string job will probably be RS Lyon 1.25. I string my crosses 1.5kg lower on all my Yonex racquets but I'm leaning towards same tension for m/c on the TC95, after reading the general perception about the launch angle.

The Yonex in your signature all have much denser string patterns than the TC95, so the first thing I'd do is increase the gauge. For tension, I personally put 1kg less on the crosses than the mains, but that's mainly to save the mains from notching too quickly as I break a lot of strings. Given that the launch angle is naturally going to be higher than your Yonex frames, I am wondering if you wouldn't be better served using the same tension on the mains and the crosses to start with, and then adjust progressively depening on how that goes. Lastly, I think you're right using a round string, as those very open 16x19 patterns eat through shaped strings really quickly.
 

cha cha

Professional
I assume this has been talked about before, but anyway...
Anyone notice a difference between the feel of the copper and octane paint jobs?
I have 2 TC100'S, the copper speccing at 320.4g / 310mm and 299 SW, and the octane 321.7g /310mm / 298 SW.
I bought them separately but asked the octane to match the specs of the 1st (the copper).

I find myself reaching more and more for the octane as it seems to have a more plush feeling to it and just more "solid" i guess you could say. I also feel a weight difference but I can't imagine I would notice 1.3g if that's all it was.

I'm thinking of selling the copper and buying a second octane.
Nope, they feel exactly the same to me.
 

RF_PRO_STAFF

Hall of Fame
The Yonex in your signature all have much denser string patterns than the TC95, so the first thing I'd do is increase the gauge. For tension, I personally put 1kg less on the crosses than the mains, but that's mainly to save the mains from notching too quickly as I break a lot of strings. Given that the launch angle is naturally going to be higher than your Yonex frames, I am wondering if you wouldn't be better served using the same tension on the mains and the crosses to start with, and then adjust progressively depening on how that goes. Lastly, I think you're right using a round string, as those very open 16x19 patterns eat through shaped strings really quickly.
Thanks for helping. I use 1.20mm strings in all those Yonex racquets so that's why I'm going for 1.25 first. I'm usually around 48/45 lbs on those frames, would you suggest going 48/48 first on the TC95 or even higher?
 

emhtennis

Hall of Fame
I assume this has been talked about before, but anyway...
Anyone notice a difference between the feel of the copper and octane paint jobs?
I have 2 TC100'S, the copper speccing at 320.4g / 310mm and 299 SW, and the octane 321.7g /310mm / 298 SW.
I bought them separately but asked the octane to match the specs of the 1st (the copper).

I find myself reaching more and more for the octane as it seems to have a more plush feeling to it and just more "solid" i guess you could say. I also feel a weight difference but I can't imagine I would notice 1.3g if that's all it was.

I'm thinking of selling the copper and buying a second octane.
The octane paint job, because the paint itself is heavier, gives the frame an extra 5pts of swingweight. This is probably what you're noticing. I would experiment with 1 to 3 grams of lead tape at 12, or 1 gram each at 10 and 2 on your copper frame before you sell it, just to see if you can even out the feel between the two.
 

BPlain

Professional
My continuing (and frustrating!) adventures in lead tape land with my K7 Red have me considering trying out a TC model instead.

I remember seeing (but am now unable to find) the breakdown of the difference in flex with the TC vs K7.

Could someone please educate me again or point me in the right direction of the thread that does?

Thanks in advance.
 
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