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Legend
If it's a 16x19, @galapagos did an extensive review of string setups in his thread "ultimate string of choice". Sure you'll find some good tips for your racquet.
Thanks. I'm not keen on poly.
If it's a 16x19, @galapagos did an extensive review of string setups in his thread "ultimate string of choice". Sure you'll find some good tips for your racquet.
Thanks. I'm not keen on poly.
Hey guys, can anyone quickly that a C grip is like the Prince? I can't remember.
Also if a V3 Tc100 bumper is same as the V2. Thanks!
I emailed them but haven't heard back
Thanks.Drill pattern is same so yes
yepThanks.
And a C grip is supposed to mimic a prince grip correct?
yep
I don’t know my grip shape
There isn’t a right or a wrong choice here, it is purely preference. To guide you, the Angell A shape is the same as Head. The Angell C shape is the same as Prince, and the Angell B Shape is a generic octagon as used by Wilson, Babolat, Dunlop etc. If you currently use any other branded racket and wish for some guidance on which handle shape to choose, please contact us for help.
FAQ - Angell Custom Tennis rackets
What is the benefit of a custom built Racket? Defining a custom frame means you get all the parameters you need to play your best game, something that Tour players have always relied on. Am I able to return the … Read Morewww.angelltennis.com
thank you for the recognition ! Here is the link to my string reviews:If it's a 16x19, @galapagos did an extensive review of string setups in his thread "ultimate string of choice". Sure you'll find some good tips for your racquet.
Can someone on this thread please dissuade me from getting a TC95 63RA 18x20?
I have 3 of the 16x19 version, which I really like, and suits my game pretty well, but sometimes miss the control and trajectory I get on my sliced backhand with an 18x20 pattern. I could also do with a bit more durability in the strings, as I break a 4G Soft in 8-9 hours max with the 16x19. But then, I am concerned that the trade-off will be a much lower net clearance on return / forehand, and generally more demanding frame. I also suspect I'd have to experiment with lower tensions / shaped strings / thinner gauges in order to get a bit more spin / power / launch.
Any insights from people who have played both patterns? Should I just stick with the 16x19 and not bother with the 18x20?
I have found the TC95 63RA 18x20 to be one of the best racquets out there. I found the benefits to outway the negatives and, even though I have both the 16x19 and 18x20, I prefer the 18x20 by a large margin.
I use lower gauge strings in the 18x20 and am able to hit all my strokes. The feel of the racquet is a personal and individual thing.
Just stay with the TC95 16x19 and use a thicker gauge string. That'll give you a bit more control and more durability in the strings.Can someone on this thread please dissuade me from getting a TC95 63RA 18x20?
I have 3 of the 16x19 version, which I really like, and suits my game pretty well, but sometimes miss the control and trajectory I get on my sliced backhand with an 18x20 pattern. I could also do with a bit more durability in the strings, as I break a 4G Soft in 8-9 hours max with the 16x19. But then, I am concerned that the trade-off will be a much lower net clearance on return / forehand, and generally more demanding frame. I also suspect I'd have to experiment with lower tensions / shaped strings / thinner gauges in order to get a bit more spin / power / launch.
Any insights from people who have played both patterns? Should I just stick with the 16x19 and not bother with the 18x20?
Can someone on this thread please dissuade me from getting a TC95 63RA 18x20?
I have 3 of the 16x19 version, which I really like, and suits my game pretty well, but sometimes miss the control and trajectory I get on my sliced backhand with an 18x20 pattern. I could also do with a bit more durability in the strings, as I break a 4G Soft in 8-9 hours max with the 16x19. But then, I am concerned that the trade-off will be a much lower net clearance on return / forehand, and generally more demanding frame. I also suspect I'd have to experiment with lower tensions / shaped strings / thinner gauges in order to get a bit more spin / power / launch.
Any insights from people who have played both patterns? Should I just stick with the 16x19 and not bother with the 18x20?
Can someone on this thread please dissuade me from getting a TC95 63RA 18x20?
I have 3 of the 16x19 version, which I really like, and suits my game pretty well, but sometimes miss the control and trajectory I get on my sliced backhand with an 18x20 pattern. I could also do with a bit more durability in the strings, as I break a 4G Soft in 8-9 hours max with the 16x19. But then, I am concerned that the trade-off will be a much lower net clearance on return / forehand, and generally more demanding frame. I also suspect I'd have to experiment with lower tensions / shaped strings / thinner gauges in order to get a bit more spin / power / launch.
Any insights from people who have played both patterns? Should I just stick with the 16x19 and not bother with the 18x20?
Pretty closed the 18X20 TC95’s as too the TC97 18X20. In my opinion there’s only a certain type of players who can truly benefit from these type of frames. Either an old school player who’s bought up on wooden frames using gut strings hits flat & doesn’t like technology or a high level player who generates pace/spin & needs lots of control. Most players are just fine with 16x19 or similar.Can someone on this thread please dissuade me from getting a TC95 63RA 18x20?
I have 3 of the 16x19 version, which I really like, and suits my game pretty well, but sometimes miss the control and trajectory I get on my sliced backhand with an 18x20 pattern. I could also do with a bit more durability in the strings, as I break a 4G Soft in 8-9 hours max with the 16x19. But then, I am concerned that the trade-off will be a much lower net clearance on return / forehand, and generally more demanding frame. I also suspect I'd have to experiment with lower tensions / shaped strings / thinner gauges in order to get a bit more spin / power / launch.
Any insights from people who have played both patterns? Should I just stick with the 16x19 and not bother with the 18x20?
Have you played with the TC95? I have used Vantage 95 for about 10 years and looking for something a little more forgiving.After more than a year with ASL2 I realize that I have not post a feedback yet. Mad year and less playing tennis due to covid19 restrictions
But first impressions were true, I`m still convinced that ASL 2 is a great racket: solid, stable, comfortable, quite powerful but with decent control. It definitely has no weaknesses, it`s a fun to play from the baseline, at the net and to serve with. I can play both defensive and offensive game, drop shots and lobs because I can feel the racket very good and predict the response. It`s the first Angell that I don`t want to customize because everything suits me very well (mass, balance, SW, maneuverability). More pop and more forgiving than my K7 Red which is customized with some lead at 3&9+handle. Love it with low to mid tension (20-21-22 kg) full poly (MSV focus hex 1.23 for example).
So I have only positive words to describe the ASL2, definitely great stick that I can recommend for everyone from 4.0 NTRP to try. Of course there are a lot of more powerful rackets and lots of more control-oriented frames but when you want to mix it all with comfort to suit your game ASL2 would be a very good choice.
Played with 18x20 for a year and could not dial in my slice at all, something was off. One of my favourite shots, just FYI. Might work for you of course but all in all, I'd say it's not worth the trouble. I used to add something about resale value in case it does not work out but not sure anymore. Quite a lot of Angells in the For sale section.
There are a few livelier 18x20 frames on market that I’ve hit with that offer a nice balance of control & power, Prince textreme 100P & head speed pro. Also some closed 16x19’s like Wilson UT Pro & Prince textreme tour 95.I think this is the voice of reason. As much as I might like it on some shots, it's just going to be less forgiving, and I am not getting any youger. I'm better off continuing to experiment with the string set-up. Just transitioned from a full bed of 4G Soft to a hybrid 4G Soft mains / Triax crosses, and it seems promising.
No, unfortunately I have not played with the TC95 so cannot compare. Probably my mate SlayerASH has played so you can PM himHave you played with the TC95? I have used Vantage 95 for about 10 years and looking for something a little more forgiving.
Came to the stringer today to pick up my stick only to find out the copper is back.Or just pay the damn taxes. I am sure you have wasted your money on worse things. : - )
What Paul will do automatically is report a much lower price of the items in your package, which the customs agents will choose to believe or not. The gift strategy will work more or less the same.
By the way, bye bye copper.
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This is a beauty, can’t stop watching mine. A clear improvement compared to the v2
TC95 is a whole new animal, a raging bull, and riding it needs some proper preparation.
If you get to dial in, then you're in for some really good shots. Serves bombs, FH and BH are very solid, quite stable against big hitters without any lead (V3 is more stable than v2 imho).
Not sure if this has been asked before - does anyone know the 3 x weight pieces/slots “configurations” in the hairpin to achieve certain weight and balance? I understand the weight pieces are different weights (not sure if all 3 are different weights though).
Could also be due to the fact that your old V2s are just that - old and broken in. The graphite in rackets slowly breaks down like any other material under repetitive stress so its feel will slowly change over time.So I picked up 2 new TC100 V3 from Angell, same weight/balance/stiffness, everything as my V2s.
Strung the same way, same string. Tourna Silver 7 tour at 47/44.
Modified it the way I modified my others and it sits at 346g static, 331 swingweight
It felt way stiffer than than my V2s.
I dropped the tension to 45/42 and it feels better.
Going from a V2 to a V3, is there really that much difference in frame feel (all things being equal)?
Shouldn’t have lead under the grommets. I have only seen weight pieces on the hairpin.Do they put lead under the bumper, or is it all in the hairpin?
I would look myself but do not want to remove the bumper yet. The grommets are shot. No way I could get it back on.
Good idea. Just cut the edges of using a pair of larger scissors. You have got health insurance, yes?I have a question.
I got an angel TC 90.
I don't like the grommets shape (Cap?). Has anyone trimmed them?
Just ordered a K7 Red XL as I tried the standard version previously and wanted to see how the XL version plays. I got a discount of 25 euros off. I will post my review once I get it strung and play with it.Good discount today during the men final!
I never would have thought about it without your post.That looks wonderful. How did you do that?
Where do you get the discount?Pulled the trigger too early at 26% discount and missed the 29%
It was on Facebook Angell page. The discount code valid only during the final. It was changing each time players were changing sides. Was fun to chase a big discount.Where do you get the discount?
I never would have thought about it without your post.
Kitchen scissors.
Only cut myself twice as well.
A spare one. I bought 10 with the rackets. The used ones, even thought it is not impossible, are extremely irritating to get back in.Did you use a set of spare grommets or the one's on the racket?
A spare one. I bought 10 with the rackets. The used ones, even thought it is not impossible, are extremely irritating to get back in.
Could also be due to the fact that your old V2s are just that - old and broken in. The graphite in rackets slowly breaks down like any other material under repetitive stress so its feel will slowly change over time.
Because most players play regularly and end up switching racket brands/models every 2 or 3 years they never notice. Us "Angell zealots" have the interesting situation of being able to do exactly what you just did: buy almost identical rackets several years apart, so the difference becomes much more noticeable.
Now, all that just being said, it is also possible that Paul has had to make slight modifications to manufacturing process, the source of his graphite, etc etc which will also contribute to a difference in feel.
The octane is the biggest difference then. Paul has said to others on the board that inquired about it, that the octane paint adds apx 5 points of swingweight to the frame.I do know when I asked Paul a bit ago when the V 3 came out what the differences were, and it had to do a little bit with how the frames were made to keep the tolerances even tighter upon Manufacturing so that the specs between frames were very very close.
My coworker did say the same thing that the racquets were heavily worn and probably loosened up a little bit over time. I had gotten mine used but they were in very good condition (4 frames).
I've now gotten down to basically using 2 because 2 definitely don't feel the same anymore. But the V2 at 47/44 feels almost identical now to the V3 at 45/42 with the V3 feeling just a hair stiffer.
And the octane is very very pretty