The Official Angell Users Club

Vapix

Rookie
Giving up on my ASL3 and selling. And not because I don’t like it but it is seeing zero court time as I am dialed in with my TC95s. Few times i use something else, I grab the K7.

Do you still playing with Prince tour XC 1.35 on the TC95?
 

topspn

Legend
Do you still playing with Prince tour XC 1.35 on the TC95?
No, I got that string for the ASL and it does work well with additional precision. I play black night on my TC95 but i did try one string job with 1.35 XC and i did like it. Overall, for my TC96s i enjoy the pocketing i get with BK. Response on volleys was a standout feature for 1.35 XC though. I’ll probably string again on one of my frames to try outdoor.
 

BBM

Rookie
Hello folks. Bought myself a K7 Red in L3 grip, but it's way too big and I'm looking to swap to L2. I read on their website that the pallet is molded, but I've heard of people being able to swap them. If it requires sawing, cutting or whatever manual process that risks damaging the racquet, then I'm definitely not taking that route...

Any light on this? I've posted my L3 for sale but it's nearly impossible to sell it here in Brazil, as it's a completely unknown brand imported by one single seller in the country.
 

nvr2old

Hall of Fame
Posted a separate thread but I’ll ask here as well. Anyone able to compare the K7 lime with the TC95 16x19? I have a TC95 but wondering if I should try a K7 lime.
 

drak

Hall of Fame
Hello folks. Bought myself a K7 Red in L3 grip, but it's way too big and I'm looking to swap to L2. I read on their website that the pallet is molded, but I've heard of people being able to swap them. If it requires sawing, cutting or whatever manual process that risks damaging the racquet, then I'm definitely not taking that route...

Any light on this? I've posted my L3 for sale but it's nearly impossible to sell it here in Brazil, as it's a completely unknown brand imported by one single seller in the country.
save yourself the trouble, get the thin Kimony grip and add an overgrip and you'll easily be around the 4 3/8 area
 

2nd Serve Ace

Hall of Fame
V3 TC 100, 300 gr, 70 RA. versus Prince Tour 100 (290) versus Prince Tour 100 (310).... Can anyone compare these regarding power and feedback please...?

The 290 and the 310 are really the same frame with just different weight in the handle. I find them more powerful due to whippiness/fast acceleration. Plush feel as well. The TC 100 was stable, but felt a little sluggish to me and the 70 RA was a bit firm.
 

BBM

Rookie
save yourself the trouble, get the thin Kimony grip and add an overgrip and you'll easily be around the 4 3/8 area

Actually it's a little more complicated than that.. Played with L3 my entire life (because that's what you were told to do here in Brazil 20 years ago). My new instructor flipped out when he saw that because I'm 1,70m tall with very small hands.. he said I should've been playing with L2 all along. I started playing L2 on a borrowed racquet, my swing improved dramatically, and my shoulder pains are miraculously gone. So I can't go back to L3 ever again lol..
 

teocem

Rookie
I
The 290 and the 310 are really the same frame with just different weight in the handle. I find them more powerful due to whippiness/fast acceleration. Plush feel as well. The TC 100 was stable, but felt a little sluggish to me and the 70 RA was a bit firm.
I am using v3 TC100 and have both RA70 and 63 in my bag. Of course 63 definitely feels more plush but if I forget about RA values and play with both, I find that RA70 is both more powerful and also very comfortable as well. If I try to summarize; RA70 has a modern feel+ slight more power+ almost near comfort to RA63.
 

2nd Serve Ace

Hall of Fame
I

I am using v3 TC100 and have both RA70 and 63 in my bag. Of course 63 definitely feels more plush but if I forget about RA values and play with both, I find that RA70 is both more powerful and also very comfortable as well. If I try to summarize; RA70 has a modern feel+ slight more power+ almost near comfort to RA63.
Yes it is a solid frame, without question. The thing that frustrated me was the only one choice of string pattern which is way more open than I like [emoji17]. The Princes have that issue for me as well, so my 360 speed pro 18x20 gets far more use.

I'm planning to put some of my ashaway Kevlar in the mains and see if that gets this frame under control for me. (The tour)

The new tours have Twaron in them as well which I absolutely love from a feel standpoint. I've seen that the K7 lime has a type of aramid as well so I guess that will have to be looked at sometime in the future.

Even my favorite syngut has an aramid ribbon around it so I guess I'm a sucker for that material!

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
 

topspn

Legend
Played a USTA match today with one of my TC95s strung up with BBO at my usual 48lbs. Very nice combo, not as soft or as deep a pocket as my BK but really liked the response and feel was not an issue. Very nice control but can hammer a ball and my kick serve was sweet today.
 

drak

Hall of Fame
Actually it's a little more complicated than that.. Played with L3 my entire life (because that's what you were told to do here in Brazil 20 years ago). My new instructor flipped out when he saw that because I'm 1,70m tall with very small hands.. he said I should've been playing with L2 all along. I started playing L2 on a borrowed racquet, my swing improved dramatically, and my shoulder pains are miraculously gone. So I can't go back to L3 ever again lol..
The Kimony can be played by itself and it would be 4 1/4 easily, also a Bab skin feel gets you pretty close to a 4 1/4
 

Mkiske

Semi-Pro
Finally, my Angell:cool:
112bwvp.jpg
 

landcookie

Semi-Pro
Hi guys, just wondering how a TC100 70RA and TC95 7 Ra at 27.5 inches compares to a Pure Drive plus in terms of power and spin generation? Am considering it as my next purchase at 310 static weight and approx. 335-340 SW. Thanks.
 

OlgaOM

Rookie
Hi guys,
First of all, thanks for all the great advices here!
Then, I have a couple of questions:

- on TC100 (63RA) 310/315 (9phl).
Due to high swing weight it plays a bit sluggish for me and I'm often late especially on fast pace serves/ shots. So I decided to remove one of the weights. It made racquet easier and faster to swing yet changed the balance. Now it's even balanced instead of head light (which I prefer). So the question is, what is the best way to make it more headlight without increasing swing weight? Will adding lead tape at the very bottom of the handle work? I believe, I can only add 0.25oz... (not too make it too heavy). What string and tension would you recommend for full poly set up? So far I tried Halo2 and Black Knight both strung ~55lb (according to racquet tune dropped down to ~51 the day after stringing without being played). Halo2 seems not quite spiny enough yet good control, with Black Knight I love the spin, but cannot hit flat - balls are more likely to fly out.

- on K7 Red.
Ytex QuadroTwist (strung @51lb) changed my experience a lot with this frame. Thanks @topspn! Yet I'm feeling my elbow every time after hitting with it. Could this possibly be caused by the string, or rather the frame?.. Would you have any recommendations on similar lively and spiny yet arm friendly set up for K7 Red?

Thanks again for all your input in this thread!
 
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Nick777

Semi-Pro
Hi guys,
First of all, thanks for all the great advices here!
Then, I have a couple of questions:

- on TC100 (63RA) 310/315 (9phl).
Due to high swing weight it plays a bit sluggish for me and I'm often late especially on fast pace serves/ shots. So I decided to remove one of the weights. It made racquet easier and faster to swing yet changed the balance. Now it's even balanced instead of head light (which I prefer). So the question is, what is the best way to make it more headlight without increasing swing weight? Will adding lead tape at the very bottom of the handle work? I believe, I can only add 0.25oz... (not too make it too heavy). What string and tension would you recommend for full poly set up? So far I tried Halo2 and Black Knight both strung ~55lb (according to racquet tune dropped down to ~51 the day after stringing without being played). Halo2 seems not quite spiny enough yet good control, with Black Knight I love the spin, but cannot hit flat - balls are more likely to fly out.

- on K7 Red.
Ytex QuadroTwist (strung @51lb) changed my experience a lot with this frame. Thanks @topspn! Yet I'm feeling my elbow every time after hitting with it. Could this possibly be caused by the string, or rather the frame?.. Would you have any recommendations on similar lively and spiny yet arm friendly set up for K7 Red?

Thanks again for all your input in this thread!
You can try cyclone tour 1.30 to k7 red, tons of spin and very soft poly, as far as sw you cannot change it by moving the weight in the handle but the more headlight the more easily swings
 

topspn

Legend
Hi guys,
First of all, thanks for all the great advices here!
Then, I have a couple of questions:

- on TC100 (63RA) 310/315 (9phl).
Due to high swing weight it plays a bit sluggish for me and I'm often late especially on fast pace serves/ shots. So I decided to remove one of the weights. It made racquet easier and faster to swing yet changed the balance. Now it's even balanced instead of head light (which I prefer). So the question is, what is the best way to make it more headlight without increasing swing weight? Will adding lead tape at the very bottom of the handle work? I believe, I can only add 0.25oz... (not too make it too heavy). What string and tension would you recommend for full poly set up? So far I tried Halo2 and Black Knight both strung ~55lb (according to racquet tune dropped down to ~51 the day after stringing without being played). Halo2 seems not quite spiny enough yet good control, with Black Knight I love the spin, but cannot hit flat - balls are more likely to fly out.

- on K7 Red.
Ytex QuadroTwist (strung @51lb) changed my experience a lot with this frame. Thanks @topspn! Yet I'm feeling my elbow every time after hitting with it. Could this possibly be caused by the string, or rather the frame?.. Would you have any recommendations on similar lively and spiny yet arm friendly set up for K7 Red?

Thanks again for all your input in this thread!
Hi Olga,

Moving around or taking off weight in the handle will effect the weight of the racquet and balance but it will have negligible effect on SW. If you like the weight now and just want a bit HL and you’re not in the mood to experiment more with shifting weights in the handle then a couple of other options. You can add a heavier grip (leather for instance), add strips of lead or Tungsten under the grip, weight under the cap (my least favorite) or add weight 7” from the butt cap (top of the grip). !/4 oz is about 7g so add around 5g there. The last if my favorite, helps smooth out the racquet swing and will make a bit HL. I use electric tape to experiment first
 

OlgaOM

Rookie
Hi Olga,

Moving around or taking off weight in the handle will effect the weight of the racquet and balance but it will have negligible effect on SW. If you like the weight now and just want a bit HL and you’re not in the mood to experiment more with shifting weights in the handle then a couple of other options. You can add a heavier grip (leather for instance), add strips of lead or Tungsten under the grip, weight under the cap (my least favorite) or add weight 7” from the butt cap (top of the grip). !/4 oz is about 7g so add around 5g there. The last if my favorite, helps smooth out the racquet swing and will make a bit HL. I use electric tape to experiment first

I’m fine experimenting with the weights, since I already made the hard part - opened the pallets :) But there were 3 weights in the very bottom, I removed the top one. If I’ll remove one more, I suppose the racquet will become too light ‍♀️. I do like the weight now, just would prefer headlight at least slightly more...
Thanks will try starting from 7” one :)
 

stocchero

New User
I’m fine experimenting with the weights, since I already made the hard part - opened the pallets :) But there were 3 weights in the very bottom, I removed the top one. If I’ll remove one more, I suppose the racquet will become too light ‍[emoji3601]. I do like the weight now, just would prefer headlight at least slightly more...
Thanks will try starting from 7” one :)
If you want the maximum shift in balance, with least amount of weight, put some fishing weight inside the foam in the butt of the racquet.

That way, each 1 gram will bring the balance 1mm towards the handle.

But that would, at least in theory, make no difference in sluggishness of the racquet, as removing weight at the end of the handle would not do this also.

So things are much more on the try and see what goes for you...

For me, specifically, I like adding weight in the buttcap, but not at 7"...

Enviado de meu Pixel 2 usando o Tapatalk
 

OlgaOM

Rookie
@Lphansen Interesting, thanks! Never thought about it.
I suppose, it’s better/safer to remove bumpers from the racquet before trimming?
 
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OlgaOM

Rookie
But that would, at least in theory, make no difference in sluggishness of the racquet, as removing weight at the end of the handle would not do this also.
I guess, sluggishness is a subjective relation to the combination of SW, weight and balance. Since making racquet lighter made it easier to swing for me.
 

Prince Vegeta

Semi-Pro
I need advice on an 18x20 frame.

I’ve been looking at the new k7 lime, as I used to have a pair of reds. I could not play with authority with the reds to save my life. I even tried putting tons of lead at 3&9 and 12 to see if that helped. How does the k7 lime compare in this regard? I’m also considering a Wilson blade 18x20, a tc95 18x20 (although I haven’t compared the head size to that of a 98), a tc97 18x20, and anxiously awaiting the new pure strike 18x20 later this year. I tend to prefer a slightly more uniform flex, albeit I don’t mind if a frame has a super low RA, just not super high. Pure strike is about as high I could go. Any thoughts?
 
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Lphansen

Rookie
@Lphansen Interesting, thanks! Never thought about it.
I suppose, it’s better/safer to remove bumpers from the racquet before trimming?

I normally do it with bumper attached, just using a sharp knife along the frame.
If the bumper is the least used with worn grommets, its very diffucult to get it in or out!
The result should look like the Head speed rackets for instance..

Lphansen
 
played doubles for the first time in 2+ years with the TC95 16x19 and I can see myself wanting an 18 x 20 version if I start playing more doubles. Lately, its been singles singles singles as it is hard to get a group together. Doubles is all about placement and a lot of net work, whereas the TC95 16x19 Ra63 is such a beast in singles with its immense exposive spin and heavy balls that take their toll over extended baseline rallies. That said no problem with the TC95 on service games ... super pinpoint serving and I was S&V even on second serves as the the returners I faced were mostly chipping returns of my serve.

Hi guys and gals.
 
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esm

Legend
The V3 TC100 looks great.

Genuine quick q - I currently mainly use the V2 TC100 63RA and Yonex Vcore Duel G 97 (both with fullbed of multi). I have been thinking of getting either a V3 TC100 63RA (same spec as the V2) or a Wilson Clash Tour.

Looking for any feedback/advice from Angell experts on the above? Is V3 a worthwhile upgrade from the V2 and is the Clash Tour a worthwhile upgrade from the V2 and the Yonex?

The final spec I am looking for would be around 342g and 32.5cm balance and SW of around 330. Thanks.
 

topspn

Legend
The V3 TC100 looks great.

Genuine quick q - I currently mainly use the V2 TC100 63RA and Yonex Vcore Duel G 97 (both with fullbed of multi). I have been thinking of getting either a V3 TC100 63RA (same spec as the V2) or a Wilson Clash Tour.

Looking for any feedback/advice from Angell experts on the above? Is V3 a worthwhile upgrade from the V2 and is the Clash Tour a worthwhile upgrade from the V2 and the Yonex?

The final spec I am looking for would be around 342g and 32.5cm balance and SW of around 330. Thanks.
Take this with a grain of salt as there are some really good reviews out there and even by TW play testers of the clash tour. I personally disliked it and thought it had a ridiculous high launch angle, very open pattern, silly control, disconnected feel and mushy flexy. I don’t think its in the same class at all of the TC100. I play with a TC95s 63RA but I have plenty of experience with the TC100. For me both TC100 and Duel G are superior frames. The V3 is definitely worth it in my opinion, I feel my TC95s are better balanced sticks with a more connected feel.
 
D

Deleted member 54265

Guest
The V3 TC100 looks great.

Genuine quick q - I currently mainly use the V2 TC100 63RA and Yonex Vcore Duel G 97 (both with fullbed of multi). I have been thinking of getting either a V3 TC100 63RA (same spec as the V2) or a Wilson Clash Tour.

Looking for any feedback/advice from Angell experts on the above? Is V3 a worthwhile upgrade from the V2 and is the Clash Tour a worthwhile upgrade from the V2 and the Yonex?

The final spec I am looking for would be around 342g and 32.5cm balance and SW of around 330. Thanks.


Take this with a grain of salt as there are some really good reviews out there and even by TW play testers of the clash tour. I personally disliked it and thought it had a ridiculous high launch angle, very open pattern, silly control, disconnected feel and mushy flexy. I don’t think its in the same class at all of the TC100. I play with a TC95s 63RA but I have plenty of experience with the TC100. For me both TC100 and Duel G are superior frames. The V3 is definitely worth it in my opinion, I feel my TC95s are better balanced sticks with a more connected feel.


Somehow one have to respect the good reviews of the Clash Tour, but it is one of the worst frames I ever played and I simply can't get into my mind that players likes this frame. Mine was strung with a multi string, mid range and that could have been part of the problem, some of my hitting partners tried the frame too and really disliked it too. I really wanted to like the frame as I was looking for a more powerful frame with arm comfort - luckily I found the TC100 :)

However one player (3.0 player who plays with Prince Phantom 93P) really liked it, but perhaps he is overmatched with his regular frame.

I agree with everything @topspn said about the Clash Tour frame. I now play with TC100 V3 and TC95 V3 and these frames are really superior in every aspects.

Cheers, Toby
 

Mkiske

Semi-Pro
My History

Angell Tc100 V3 27” 63 RA

Factory specs L3
310g
32,5 cm; 6 HL
Cushion Pu
------------------------------

Grip changed from L3 to L2
Measuring
309,5g
32,05 cm; 7 HL
Cushion Pu
----------------------------

Stringed
MSV Focus Hex 1.27 50 lbs: 328,55g
33,2 cm; 3,5 HL
Cushion Pu
------------------------------

PLUS
Overgrip, dampener, MSV Focus Hex 1.27 50 lbs: 334,68g
32,9 cm; 4,5 HL
------------------------------

String change
Cushion Pu, Overgrip, dampener, Yonex Poly Tour Pro 1.25 49 lbs: 332,38g
32,8 cm; 4,7 HL
------------------------------

Weight added
Cushion Pu, Overgrip, dampener, Yonex Poly Tour Pro 1.25 49 lbs: 335,38g
32,5 cm; 5,8 HL
3g weight at Buttcap
 
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Mkiske

Semi-Pro
I didn't like of the Focus Hex 1.27, stiffer than Steel.

About added weight, I wanted to leave the racket more head light, for the handling improvement.
Let's play!
 
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galapagos

Hall of Fame
Have someone tried angell in both configurations : 320g/310 balance and 310g/315 balance ? ... which one wins for you and why ? :)
 

kailash

Hall of Fame
Have someone tried angell in both configurations : 320g/310 balance and 310g/315 balance ? ... which one wins for you and why ? :)
I am also interested.
Especially, the TC95 in 320g/305 configuration (same as Prince TT95 unstrung) compared to the above mentioned configurations.
 

topspn

Legend
Yes, the frame is terrific in either configuration in all honesty. It just depends if you’re most comfortable with a 18x20 or 16x19. The 18x20 is a tight pattern and conducive to a thinner string like 1.20 gauge. It takes getting used to pick up low ball with top spin and also approach shots. The serve doesn’t have level of power the 16x19 does but still pretty good. Slices are absolutely sick with the closed pattern and volleys are extremely good and precision is upped overall. The 16x19 is very conducive to 16g 1.30 due its more open pattern. Power is a bit up and felt more on serve. They are both excellent and just depends on what pattern your game favors.
 

galapagos

Hall of Fame
Yes, the frame is terrific in either configuration in all honesty. It just depends if you’re most comfortable with a 18x20 or 16x19. The 18x20 is a tight pattern and conducive to a thinner string like 1.20 gauge. It takes getting used to pick up low ball with top spin and also approach shots. The serve doesn’t have level of power the 16x19 does but still pretty good. Slices are absolutely sick with the closed pattern and volleys are extremely good and precision is upped overall. The 16x19 is very conducive to 16g 1.30 due its more open pattern. Power is a bit up and felt more on serve. They are both excellent and just depends on what pattern your game favors.
we were more debating between weight distribution (in the handle). It most likely changes how the racquet feel, maybe also some playing characteristics. 310g/315 might give more drive motion while 320g/310 or 320g/305 more whip. However taking off 10grams might also change something :)
 

Chas

Rookie
we were more debating between weight distribution (in the handle). It most likely changes how the racquet feel, maybe also some playing characteristics. 310g/315 might give more drive motion while 320g/310 or 320g/305 more whip. However taking off 10grams might also change something :)

I have two V1 TC95 16x19's that came as 320g/305 s. I've played with them like that for about 2 years . Recently I decided to reduce their weight and took out about 8 -10 grams so they are now probably somewhere nearer the 310-312g mark and closer to the 8pt HL .

That's made them a little quicker to swing & maintain that pace through our 4 set doubles match formats. I haven't noticed any drop in plough through & ability to face up to heavy serves.

I hear the V3's are generally lower SW, so the weight reduction may affect them more, perhaps adversely ?
 

topspn

Legend
we were more debating between weight distribution (in the handle). It most likely changes how the racquet feel, maybe also some playing characteristics. 310g/315 might give more drive motion while 320g/310 or 320g/305 more whip. However taking off 10grams might also change something :)
Ah sorry, lazy reader i guess. I had V1 and V2 in 330g/12HL and 310/9HL and both played fine and did not get pushed back. 310 was quicker but not as heavy a ball. It really does come down to physics if head speed is good. The 330 a bit more laborious on flicks and quick fire volleys but ground strokes was fine and hit a big ball. My V3s are all 320g/10HL and I add a bit of weight in the head around 10&2 with 1g each side. Strung and with OG they spec 344g/8HL and they play great. Quickness not an issue at all and ball plenty big so will not even think about changing that setup.
 

esm

Legend
Another q - has anyone tried any of the Halo strings in fullbed setup?

Have purchased a coupe of Halo 3 packs to try on a V2 TC100. Will cut out the Bab Addiction 16 and replace with Halo 3... will see what happens. Should I string the Halo 3 at the same tension as the Bab Addition 16 or should I string it a couple of lbs lower as the Halo 3 is Syn gut. Thanks
 

OlgaOM

Rookie
Another q - has anyone tried any of the Halo strings in fullbed setup?
I tried Halo 2 and Halo 1 in fullbed. I really liked how Halo 2 played in TC100 and TC97, strung 2lbs lower my usual tension. Pros in my club, who usually play with RPM or AluPower didn't quite like it, though noted it is quite good, but not enough spin for them. Sorry, no experience with Halo 3.
 

kailash

Hall of Fame
Anyone played with the following and can compare to TC95 with the same weight?
- Dunlop Srixon 200 Tour (in stock weight or with some lead in the hoop)
- Tecnifibre TFight 315 LTD (with some lead in the hoop)

I am more interested in the 16x19 pattern.
 

topspn

Legend
Another q - has anyone tried any of the Halo strings in fullbed setup?

Have purchased a coupe of Halo 3 packs to try on a V2 TC100. Will cut out the Bab Addiction 16 and replace with Halo 3... will see what happens. Should I string the Halo 3 at the same tension as the Bab Addition 16 or should I string it a couple of lbs lower as the Halo 3 is Syn gut. Thanks
Tried Halo 2, it is soft super comfy for poly. Has some power, liveliness and prodigious spin. High control is not it’s forte. Excellent for someone who plays multi and looking for a soft poly and spin.
 
Ah sorry, lazy reader i guess. I had V1 and V2 in 330g/12HL and 310/9HL and both played fine and did not get pushed back. 310 was quicker but not as heavy a ball. It really does come down to physics if head speed is good. The 330 a bit more laborious on flicks and quick fire volleys but ground strokes was fine and hit a big ball. My V3s are all 320g/10HL and I add a bit of weight in the head around 10&2 with 1g each side. Strung and with OG they spec 344g/8HL and they play great. Quickness not an issue at all and ball plenty big so will not even think about changing that setup.
I like to think we answer questions that other players didn't know they needed an answer to yet ;)
 

twohandedslice

New User
Hey guys, I've been reading these posts here since the K7 Lime came out - I'm only up to page 387, but you guys along with the TennisNerd demo have convinced me to pull the trigger.

I've been using Pure Drives recently, and although I've probably had more success with them than any other racket, my wrist and arm are in bits. I know the Lime wont be a Pure Drive, but I'm going to give it a shot for a few months.

Quite excited to try and I'll let ya know how I get on.

In the meantime, what strings and tension are people generally using in their Limes?

Cheers in advance,

Lee.
 

dxrysiko

New User
Hey guys, I've been reading these posts here since the K7 Lime came out - I'm only up to page 387, but you guys along with the TennisNerd demo have convinced me to pull the trigger.

I've been using Pure Drives recently, and although I've probably had more success with them than any other racket, my wrist and arm are in bits. I know the Lime wont be a Pure Drive, but I'm going to give it a shot for a few months.

Quite excited to try and I'll let ya know how I get on.

In the meantime, what strings and tension are people generally using in their Limes?

Cheers in advance,

Lee.

I would suggest you to consider the TC-100 if you are coming from a puredrive... I did the same, choosing the same specs as my previous pure drive and it worked out really nice. Just received my second one last month...
 

OlgaOM

Rookie
Hey guys, I've been reading these posts here since the K7 Lime came out - I'm only up to page 387, but you guys along with the TennisNerd demo have convinced me to pull the trigger.

I've been using Pure Drives recently, and although I've probably had more success with them than any other racket, my wrist and arm are in bits. I know the Lime wont be a Pure Drive, but I'm going to give it a shot for a few months.

Quite excited to try and I'll let ya know how I get on.

In the meantime, what strings and tension are people generally using in their Limes?

Cheers in advance,

Lee.

I tried both K7 racquets and V3 and the latter are definitely noticeably less bothering for the arm... Though, K7 are quite comfortable too (just a bit less). So far I liked Halo2 strings in all Angell racquets, at least for my arm issues for sure it works. But I’m still playing around with strings :)
 
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