The Official Lead Tape Placement+Racket Customization Thread
- Thread starter xFullCourtTenniSx
- Start date
xFullCourtTenniSx
Hall of Fame
Do you like leather? If you do, then go with leather. It feels better, it adds plenty of barely noticeable weight, and it looks better. Otherwise use lead. I use leather on all of my rackets, so I don't have much of a choice in the matter.
No... A polarized racket is a racket with a relatively low static mass for it's swingweight (or you can say it the other way around) because of it's relatively polar weight distribution (majority of the weight is spread out towards the ends of the racket).
Both types of rackets can be SW2 rackets. SW1 and SW2 refer to swingweight levels, SW1 being low to moderate levels and SW2 being relatively high levels (usually it's easily at least 360).
Funbun
Professional
Hey Fullcourt, to what extent is attempting to mix both a depolarized and polarized setup?
I'm asking this because I want my racquet to get around to my SW2 range. It's a KPro Tour (you've posted in that particular thread a couple months ago). My current setup is 8g at both 3&9 and 2g at 12. However, I still feel like the swingweight could be higher. Should I add more lead at 3&9 to further depolarize it or should I just add 2 more grams at 12? I'm afraid, though, that I might be trying to mix. =(
Either way, I don't want the racquet to be overpowered.
Thanks FullCourt, you really taught me a lot on customization.
EDIT: Well, I decided to change it to 12g at 3&9 and 4g at 12. I hope it's not too overpowering. What are your views on this?
I'm asking this because I want my racquet to get around to my SW2 range. It's a KPro Tour (you've posted in that particular thread a couple months ago). My current setup is 8g at both 3&9 and 2g at 12. However, I still feel like the swingweight could be higher. Should I add more lead at 3&9 to further depolarize it or should I just add 2 more grams at 12? I'm afraid, though, that I might be trying to mix. =(
Either way, I don't want the racquet to be overpowered.
Thanks FullCourt, you really taught me a lot on customization.
EDIT: Well, I decided to change it to 12g at 3&9 and 4g at 12. I hope it's not too overpowering. What are your views on this?
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supineAnimation
Hall of Fame
Just curious, but when you say 3 grams at 3 and 9, for example, do you mean 3 grams on each side or 3 grams total (1.5 grams each side)? I use 4 grams on each side, 8 total, but I never know which one people mean when they talk about how much weight they add at 3 and 9. Granted I'm not a smart man. Thanks.Honestly, nothing on swingweight unless you have a Babolat RDC. And sadly, yes, swingweight is the key ingredient to making 2 rackets feel the same. But different people have different preferences. As you know, it's not always possible to match EVERY spec perfectly everytime, so pros generally have a list of which are more important to match compared to the others. Some like balance the most, some like mass, some like swingweight. Sampras was a tough guy to work for because he wanted all 3 the same. Good thing his rackets had so much lead added to them, otherwise it might have been a serious headache for Nate Ferguson.
I'd start off by trying to match them before I add weight, then I can add the same amount of weight to all of them. Or, if I know which racket I like, I'll treat any racket heavier as if it had a little weight already added somewhere. Then I just calculate how much less weight I have to put in a general location to have it come out about the same. And any racket that's lighter, I add weight so that the specs are matched. Sadly, it's tough to match the swingweight without a Babolat RDC machine unless you're Pete Sampras.
Depolarized frames are far better on volleys. Not even debatable. lol And for the high one handed backhand, the polarized frame is tricky to use because you need to be able to apply heavy spin to control the shot. However, I don't have a problem with that personally... I have no idea why. Polarized frames are overall better for me. But you can get some easy pop with a depolarized frame. The racket does all the work.
As for making a list of stock polarized and depolarized frames... The only ones I know are K90 being relatively polarized, and the n90 and PS90 being depolarized. I heard the Sampras racket is likely depolarized too, which makes sense since what he uses on court is a heavy, depolarized beatstick.
As for whether he played better with the ProStaff 6.0 Midsize than with his current racket(s), I have no idea. Never seen much of him at the time other than 2001 Wimbledon. He did hit some amazing backhands, but they weren't off high balls. Back then he sliced a lot of high balls if I remember correctly.
As for what Guga used, I'm not sure. I'd guess he used a polarized setup. But during his time, they were a rarity.
I can't find any pictures with any lead on his racket.Perhaps he went stock? :shock:
Depends on how much you want to improve stability. If only slightly, then 3 grams total is good. If you want something that's rock solid, then 5-7 is a good number. If you want something that's like a wall, then go into the double digits. Haha.
How long depends on how much you're adding. Some people like it longer to spread out the effects of stretching the sweetspot. I personally like it longer. Looks nicer, and it requires less layers.
hi mate, hope you are still around....
post a reply to your post at the other lead tape thread and was hoping you'd give me some advice
anyway, i'm post the same content here and hoping you will be back soon. thanks mate
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hi X (aka Dr. Lead Tape)
as mentioned before, i have finally got my other FXP Prestige MP back and i have done a few measurements for you to give me advice on how to match them (as closely as possible... please)
so here they are:
FXP Prestige MP 1 (main racquet):
Weight - 356g
Head balance - 31.5cm
Current Lead tape - 4 x 4" of 1/2" width tapes at 3 and 9 oclock (my previous attempt before #2 arrived, outside the CAP)
String - Babolat Attraction Power 16 @ 60lb (eventually this will have Bab Addition 17 on it)
Grip - leather & tourna grip (matched)
Dampener - Wilson smilie
FXP Prestige MP 2 (newly acquired USED
):Weight - 360g
Head balance - 32.75cm
Current Lead tape - 2 x 6" of 1/2" width tapes at 12 oclock (under the CAP, came with the racquet)
String - Babolat Addition 17 @ 60lb (they dont have 16 in the UK)
Grip - leather & tourna grip (matched)
Dampener - Wilson smilie
now, the tricky bits is - i much prefer the #2 setup, it just feels more solid and has a better plow through for me and enjoyed playing with it much more.
so..... i hope there is sufficient info. can you please advise me on how to match these 2 racquets as closely as possible, thanks very much :mrgreen:
PS - is head balance 32.75cm more head heavey than 31.5cm? because #2 is more head heavy than #1
-------------------------------------
Justin
Rookie
If I want to polarize a racquet and make it have a high swingweight, do you think I could add a lot of weight to the handle (without messing with the butt cap and inside the handle), by going down a grip size and then covering the outside of the handle with lead tape, covering it with a leather grip, and then adding an overgrip would be a good idea? I imagine it would smooth out the bevels a lot, so I'm guessing not.
I would like to use a non-instrusive method if possible.
I would like to use a non-instrusive method if possible.
ManuGinobili
Hall of Fame
FullCourt,
been meaning to ask this for a while... I'm tryin to convert an AN90 into having a similar feel to the AK90, I like the latter much more but was able to get the former for 2 old rackets. This is virtually the same process as converting an N90 into a K90.....Since u got good knowledge of the 2 sticks, wanna give me some pointers? I'm expecting a higher SW of course, just want that "feel" of the K instead of the mute-ness of the N....
been meaning to ask this for a while... I'm tryin to convert an AN90 into having a similar feel to the AK90, I like the latter much more but was able to get the former for 2 old rackets. This is virtually the same process as converting an N90 into a K90.....Since u got good knowledge of the 2 sticks, wanna give me some pointers? I'm expecting a higher SW of course, just want that "feel" of the K instead of the mute-ness of the N....
ManuGinobili
Hall of Fame
yes, the inside of the handle...
Gee
Hall of Fame
Lead experts,
I need some help from you.
I own a BA98 (stock specs: 315g - 9 pts HL - 290 SW) that I purchased from TW Europe. (I asked several times before but I still don't understand the different specs (315g - 4pts HL- 331 SW) mentioned on TW USA).
Pro Kennex Black Ace 98 - 352 grams - 7 pts HL - Head RIP Control 17g 60/57 lbs (27/26 kg) -
2 layers of 6" x 1/4" lead strips at 3 and 9 - Babolat Leather Grip - Dunlop Hydratac Overgrip
It plays better than in stock this way but I still want more solidness and a higher SW.
Should I add about 5 grams ( 1/4" of 10" long strips at 12) and counterbalance at 7" from buttcap?
Any advice would be appreciated.
I need some help from you.
I own a BA98 (stock specs: 315g - 9 pts HL - 290 SW) that I purchased from TW Europe. (I asked several times before but I still don't understand the different specs (315g - 4pts HL- 331 SW) mentioned on TW USA).
Pro Kennex Black Ace 98 - 352 grams - 7 pts HL - Head RIP Control 17g 60/57 lbs (27/26 kg) -
2 layers of 6" x 1/4" lead strips at 3 and 9 - Babolat Leather Grip - Dunlop Hydratac Overgrip
It plays better than in stock this way but I still want more solidness and a higher SW.
Should I add about 5 grams ( 1/4" of 10" long strips at 12) and counterbalance at 7" from buttcap?
Any advice would be appreciated.
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Gee
Hall of Fame
I added 2,5 grams at 12 and a rubber band (2 grams) at 7" from buttcap.
Tonight I played indoors with my BA98.
The added weight didn't make much difference. Just only a little bit more solid.
After one half an hour I switch to my TF335. Immediately I noticed the solidness that I was looking for all the time when demoing another frame. I only wished it was a little less demanding because It is a pretty heavy frame. I can handle the TF335 well but I can feel that it costs me more energy and I need more recovery time after a match day. Especially this is noticeable when I need to play a few days in a row during tournaments.
I think I should go more to the fitness center to make my body even stronger.
Tonight I played indoors with my BA98.
The added weight didn't make much difference. Just only a little bit more solid.
After one half an hour I switch to my TF335. Immediately I noticed the solidness that I was looking for all the time when demoing another frame. I only wished it was a little less demanding because It is a pretty heavy frame. I can handle the TF335 well but I can feel that it costs me more energy and I need more recovery time after a match day. Especially this is noticeable when I need to play a few days in a row during tournaments.
I think I should go more to the fitness center to make my body even stronger.
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moronicfreak
New User
help me customize my youtek radical
well im trying to increase the spin and power of my shots without adding too much weight to the stick,
i think i would go for a polarized set up, but i would like the balance to remain as it is.
i think i want to add at most 10 grams to the overall weight.
how do i spread out the weight evenly?
is it possible to not change the swing weight too much?
well im trying to increase the spin and power of my shots without adding too much weight to the stick,
i think i would go for a polarized set up, but i would like the balance to remain as it is.
i think i want to add at most 10 grams to the overall weight.
how do i spread out the weight evenly?
is it possible to not change the swing weight too much?
ManuGinobili
Hall of Fame
3g under the bumper guard, 3g right at the buttcap for a start?
moronicfreak
New User
hmmm so should just keep the weight at the top the same as the bottom?
cool i will give it a try thanks!
anyways can any youtek radical users tell me their set up of leading thanks! would like to try
ManuGinobili
Hall of Fame
Oops, bad advice, I was multitasking lol.
Theory is, for polarization you add weight to those positions. Find your racket's balance and add weight till u get that balance. (the 3g & 3g only works for rackets with an even balance)
tenis
Professional
What racquet you play? The Head Intelligence had bad paint, peeling off a lot...
ericchuu16
New User
"This means you can add a LOT of weight, and still not exceed your SW2 range. More mass means more stability and power. Usually the added power means a higher tension is required to control it."
@Xfull
I have a Kblade 98 with 3 grams at 9 o clock and 3 grams at 3 o clock. I have placed 9 grams at 7" above the handle. I would like to add more weight, but I do want to add so much as to be in between the SW1 and SW2 range because isnt that where you said the balls soar long. I was wondering if you could tell me how I could place the lead tape just enough to hit the SW1 range
@Xfull
I have a Kblade 98 with 3 grams at 9 o clock and 3 grams at 3 o clock. I have placed 9 grams at 7" above the handle. I would like to add more weight, but I do want to add so much as to be in between the SW1 and SW2 range because isnt that where you said the balls soar long. I was wondering if you could tell me how I could place the lead tape just enough to hit the SW1 range
ericchuu16
New User
@Xfull
I have a Kblade 98 that is depolarized with 6 grams total at 3 and 9 and 9 grams at 7" above the handle. I was wondering how much lead tape I can add before I hit the SW1 Range, but not exceed it because i do not want to be hitting balls long.
I have a Kblade 98 that is depolarized with 6 grams total at 3 and 9 and 9 grams at 7" above the handle. I was wondering how much lead tape I can add before I hit the SW1 Range, but not exceed it because i do not want to be hitting balls long.
Anyone try polarizing with a PDR+? I've heard someone say SW2 for them is around 380 or 390. Mine is at 365 with with 7g in buttcap (and also a gamma supreme overgrip) and about 9g from 11 to 1.
The problem for me is that it's too powerful. I know from trying that less weight at the head makes it less powerful (at least at this sw), so i'm thinking I can take off some there and add it to 3 and 9? Less power and more stability? Or should I just keep adding it at 12 till it gets less powerful? Not sure if i'm at sw2...
Tried higher tension, doesn't help that much.
The problem for me is that it's too powerful. I know from trying that less weight at the head makes it less powerful (at least at this sw), so i'm thinking I can take off some there and add it to 3 and 9? Less power and more stability? Or should I just keep adding it at 12 till it gets less powerful? Not sure if i'm at sw2...
Tried higher tension, doesn't help that much.
i found a great, easy solution to this. it has never happened to me but when i first bought lead (gamma swingweights), the quality was disastrous, the adhesive barely working. the weights kept coming off when i took big cuts at the ball. i didn't want to use glue and make it very difficult to take off and possibly damage the paint.
i found some nice heavy duty tape and cut them into strips slightly longer and wider than the gamma swingweights. i stuck these onto the frame. applied super glue underneath the lead weights and stuck them on to the the tape. the strips should be bigger than the lead pieces/tape because when you press down and apply pressure, the super glue will bleed onto to the bare frame. so this way you're leaving a margin.
so far i haven't had a problem with lead coming off. i suspect the duct tape will come off easily without damaging the paint at all, although i haven't tried it yet. or you can experiment with various adhesive tapes to see which one comes off with the least effort, most cleanly; therefore being least likely to peel off paint and use that as a platform.
TheGrapist
New User
hey thank you for the awesome info you gave, it really helped. I used the depolarized setup added 6g to 3 and 9 oclock and 6 to the buttcap, i hit with it on friday, Wow its pretty great on my FXP prestige
Ivan Lendl's Backhand
Banned
Here are the results of my experimentation with lead on a Babolat Pure Drive GT:
1) 4g at 3+9. Definite improvement. Racquet feels more solid on contact with the ball.
2) 8g at 3+9. More heft and weight. Noticeably improved 'clubbing' ability on serves which are now bombs. Extra weight allows me to get out of trouble with deep pentrative shots when I would otherwise be on the defensive. Slight loss of manouvrabilty at the net. Racquet feels heavy after an hour's play though and my arm feels tired. Bit reluctant to use this during long competitive matches because its just a bit too tiring for me.
3) 6g at 3+9. About the best compromise between improved stability and being able to maintain racquet head speed. BEST COMPROMISE SO FAR.
4) 8g at 3+9 and 2g at 12. Hideous. Racquet feels like a hammer and serves are uncontrollable - the racquet seems to swing without me wanting it to!
5) 8g at 3+9 and 5g at 7" from the butt cap. Unplayable. Racquet feels very ponderous and slow.
6) 8g at 3+9 and 5g in buttcap. Feels weighty but not unmanageble. Racquet is incredibly solid - no weight of ball seems to deflect its trajectory. My 1HBs are missiles and the extra weight seems to keep the racquet stable when hitting outside the sweet spot on my normally inconsistent 1HB. Unfortunately, the racquet is a too heavy for me to swing in the way that I would like. Significant reduction in racquet head speed on serves.
7) 6g at 3+9 and 2g in buttcap. I thought that this would be perfect but the racquet balance doens't feel right at all. Serves going into the net, groundstroks going long... Have removed the 2g in the buttcap.
Still experimenting.....happy to hear suggestions for what to try next.
1) 4g at 3+9. Definite improvement. Racquet feels more solid on contact with the ball.
2) 8g at 3+9. More heft and weight. Noticeably improved 'clubbing' ability on serves which are now bombs. Extra weight allows me to get out of trouble with deep pentrative shots when I would otherwise be on the defensive. Slight loss of manouvrabilty at the net. Racquet feels heavy after an hour's play though and my arm feels tired. Bit reluctant to use this during long competitive matches because its just a bit too tiring for me.
3) 6g at 3+9. About the best compromise between improved stability and being able to maintain racquet head speed. BEST COMPROMISE SO FAR.
4) 8g at 3+9 and 2g at 12. Hideous. Racquet feels like a hammer and serves are uncontrollable - the racquet seems to swing without me wanting it to!
5) 8g at 3+9 and 5g at 7" from the butt cap. Unplayable. Racquet feels very ponderous and slow.
6) 8g at 3+9 and 5g in buttcap. Feels weighty but not unmanageble. Racquet is incredibly solid - no weight of ball seems to deflect its trajectory. My 1HBs are missiles and the extra weight seems to keep the racquet stable when hitting outside the sweet spot on my normally inconsistent 1HB. Unfortunately, the racquet is a too heavy for me to swing in the way that I would like. Significant reduction in racquet head speed on serves.
7) 6g at 3+9 and 2g in buttcap. I thought that this would be perfect but the racquet balance doens't feel right at all. Serves going into the net, groundstroks going long... Have removed the 2g in the buttcap.
Still experimenting.....happy to hear suggestions for what to try next.
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TennisPassion5
Rookie
Help is greatly appreciated
Just bought Gamma lead tape 1/4"
My biggest desire is additional control, followed by stability, followed by power.
I was thinking about adding lead tape at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, but if it's geared more towards increasing the sweet spot, maybe I don't need that set-up if I'm looking for control over power.
In addition, does more head light necessarily mean more control? Because adding lead tape at 3 and 9 would make it more head heavy.
Thanks for the help in advance!
Just bought Gamma lead tape 1/4"
My biggest desire is additional control, followed by stability, followed by power.
I was thinking about adding lead tape at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, but if it's geared more towards increasing the sweet spot, maybe I don't need that set-up if I'm looking for control over power.
In addition, does more head light necessarily mean more control? Because adding lead tape at 3 and 9 would make it more head heavy.
Thanks for the help in advance!
Funbun
Professional
Well, it depends on your playing style. If you want more directional control, put it at 3&9, so you can have more stable shots. If you want more depth control, put it at 12 so you can have more topspin in your shots.
If you don't want an extreme trampoline super power shot from the sweet spot, just increase your string tension to compensate. A larger sweet doesn't always necessarily mean more power. It just means more stability.
Nobody really wants a head-heavy racquet. They are rather difficult to move around on serves and groundstrokes. It's an extreme rarity to see HH racquets on the pro tour. Adding lead tape anywhere beyond the balance point on the racquet WILL make it more head heavy. Several pros use racquets on the head heavier side, though (like around 3-5 pts. HL).
If you want to maintain the racquet balance from adding tape to the hoop, add tape to the handle to counterbalance the weight.
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Prostaffer
Semi-Pro
So i'm in the second half of my singles league and i'm in a tie for first place. I've split the head to head with the first place guy. Here are my specs and a little about my game.
Vantage
95"
27.25
310 grams.
70 RA
Currently playing Lux ALU @ 55lbs strung in May 2008. (Yeah you saw that)
No lead right now at all.
I played college tennis and used to play Wilson Rok, Prestige, usually with lead at 3 and 9.
Just took a two year layoff and coming back. The serve is getting consistent and i'm getting great placement.
One handed backhand, not a big hitter on that wing but I can place it where I have to.
Best shot is a slice approach. I'm able to keep the ball low and set up what I'm doing best, volleying.
I'd like a setup that helps me with two things. A little more pace on my ground strokes. Forehands tend to drop just long when I "get after it". I'm trying to spin it and it doesn't drop. Or if I want to do a topspin approach instead of the slice my topspin goes no where and into the net.
My return of serve has suffered too. The guy i'm fighting against has a big flat first serve and I get my stick on it and the ball goes nowhere. Usually I can block it back but the ball hits the strings, stick shakes and it goes nowhere.
I currently have some ALU Rough and ALU available. I'm willing to get some other poly's but would like to do this soon. Also interested in polarization. Read a little about it and wonder if it would work for me and how much lead would be needed and where? Thanks for the help guys! I promise to post results.
Vantage
95"
27.25
310 grams.
70 RA
Currently playing Lux ALU @ 55lbs strung in May 2008. (Yeah you saw that)
No lead right now at all.
I played college tennis and used to play Wilson Rok, Prestige, usually with lead at 3 and 9.
Just took a two year layoff and coming back. The serve is getting consistent and i'm getting great placement.
One handed backhand, not a big hitter on that wing but I can place it where I have to.
Best shot is a slice approach. I'm able to keep the ball low and set up what I'm doing best, volleying.
I'd like a setup that helps me with two things. A little more pace on my ground strokes. Forehands tend to drop just long when I "get after it". I'm trying to spin it and it doesn't drop. Or if I want to do a topspin approach instead of the slice my topspin goes no where and into the net.
My return of serve has suffered too. The guy i'm fighting against has a big flat first serve and I get my stick on it and the ball goes nowhere. Usually I can block it back but the ball hits the strings, stick shakes and it goes nowhere.
I currently have some ALU Rough and ALU available. I'm willing to get some other poly's but would like to do this soon. Also interested in polarization. Read a little about it and wonder if it would work for me and how much lead would be needed and where? Thanks for the help guys! I promise to post results.
(K)evin
Rookie
yeah what does this do?
Prostaffer
Semi-Pro
i've been interested in this as well...
philosoraptor
Rookie
if i remember right, it was to add weight to get to stock specs because of wilsons qc failure
bastorm0720
New User
How do you find the balance of the racquet? I'm thinking about leading up my racquets for the first time.
I'm a baseliner with huge spin off both wings, so I'm probably going fo the depolarized setup with some weigh at 3 and 9 for stability (or 2 and 10?)
Also, what's the point of counterbalancing?
And where does the tape go inside the handle...
I'm a baseliner with huge spin off both wings, so I'm probably going fo the depolarized setup with some weigh at 3 and 9 for stability (or 2 and 10?)
Also, what's the point of counterbalancing?
And where does the tape go inside the handle...
(K)evin
Rookie
first read the first page of this thread
second why depolarize it if you have huge spin why not go for more of it with a polarized setup?
bastorm0720
New User
Oh i meant polarized sorry lol
and i did read the first page but i must've missed that part i'll reread thanks
and i did read the first page but i must've missed that part i'll reread thanks
lead placement on handle
lots of good info here, been testing some volkl C10 pros, 5 grams under the bumper , leather grips, etc , whats the best location on the handle to help get these things to swing faster, I think I read where you posted the frames will swing faster with lead at the top of the grip approx 9'' rather than at 5-7 " or but cap area ( just before or under cap ) any lead near the bottom of the handle feels like "dead weight" but it does measure slightly more headlite ? my other frames are the becker special addition models , and they have a lot of lead at the top of the grip areas ,any suggestions or play tests ? thanks
lots of good info here, been testing some volkl C10 pros, 5 grams under the bumper , leather grips, etc , whats the best location on the handle to help get these things to swing faster, I think I read where you posted the frames will swing faster with lead at the top of the grip approx 9'' rather than at 5-7 " or but cap area ( just before or under cap ) any lead near the bottom of the handle feels like "dead weight" but it does measure slightly more headlite ? my other frames are the becker special addition models , and they have a lot of lead at the top of the grip areas ,any suggestions or play tests ? thanks
lilxjohnyy
Hall of Fame
I use the Youtek Prestige mid. Recently i have started experimenting with lead tapes. However every time i place some lead on the head of the racket, i start to feel uncomfortable with the feel and quickly pull the lead off. I have never tried adding the weight on the head and counterbalancing the weight in the handle.
However, I want to continue to experiment so should i try adding some lead on the handle to see if I like it better? I play 1 doubles for my team so i could use some extra maneuverability. Or should i try adding some weight in the head but also counter balancing the weight in the handle. BTW i didnt add too much lead and it felt uncomfortable, 4 6in lead at 2-3 o clock and 9 to 10 o clock. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
However, I want to continue to experiment so should i try adding some lead on the handle to see if I like it better? I play 1 doubles for my team so i could use some extra maneuverability. Or should i try adding some weight in the head but also counter balancing the weight in the handle. BTW i didnt add too much lead and it felt uncomfortable, 4 6in lead at 2-3 o clock and 9 to 10 o clock. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
ManuGinobili
Hall of Fame
As little as 2 or 3g of lead can be felt by us club players. You definitely should have counter balanced it... adding weight to just one end of the stick affects the balance substantially
Remember it's a long experiment! And keep aiming for that perfect result!
Remember it's a long experiment! And keep aiming for that perfect result!
bertrevert
Legend
I think the other side of this is that some racquet paint jobs have VERY sof t paint. The wilson k series have very decals and the undercoat as well. You can't just blame the tape.
bertrevert
Legend
Great thread.
I've been hitting long, without enough spin, and lack power.
I'm going to stick 3g at 12.
(And also get a spinnier string and strng looser.)
This thread should be a sticky as it is v helpful - should have read this year's ago!
I've been hitting long, without enough spin, and lack power.
I'm going to stick 3g at 12.
(And also get a spinnier string and strng looser.)
This thread should be a sticky as it is v helpful - should have read this year's ago!
Jakesteroni
Semi-Pro
Take a ruler, measure from the bottom of the handle to the 7inch mark, add lead.
Jakesteroni
Semi-Pro
This is one of the most vital threads for playing tennis IMO.
I've played with lead on my rackets since my high school days til I came across the I.prestige and that racket stock was the perfect set up for me. Of course now thats discontinued I moved on to the Babolat Pure Storm LTD, which has similar specs but of course is not the same.
In my experience with lead, I can tell you guys this. Where you hold your racket will make the biggest of difference. Some people have an inch or two from their pinky when holding the racket and some don't have any space at all from the buttcap. Whichever one you are, experiment after putting lead. Play with your normal grip position first, then slightly move to the higher or lower bevels of position. What this will provide you is information on how the lead is performing for you. For instance, I added lead to the bottom of the handle and 3 & 9 played with it on a grip I don't normally do (higher on the handle), the racket played well when I would hold the handle at a certain height. If I moved lower on the handle I didn't feel the racket hitting the sweetspot. If you experiment with the grip height you'll be able to ball park what you may have to do, whether it be add or take off weight. If you hold low on the handle, the more weight on the head, the more whip needed to cause spin. If you now hold the racket mid way handle now the characteristics of hitting changes you'll feel the ball impact and react differently examples maybe less spin, flatter balls, more power. Your handle leverage changes causing the swing motion to be faster or slower. Think of it like a hammer.
This is why some of us hit the forehand the same side of the racket all the time. We've created a holding point on the handle that is comfortable, the way the bevels from the grip help us know everytime thats where it should be.
IMO this should be calculated when adding weight, but no one gets into it because you then experiment and offset which eventually adding more or less weight will get you to where you want.
I've played with lead on my rackets since my high school days til I came across the I.prestige and that racket stock was the perfect set up for me. Of course now thats discontinued I moved on to the Babolat Pure Storm LTD, which has similar specs but of course is not the same.
In my experience with lead, I can tell you guys this. Where you hold your racket will make the biggest of difference. Some people have an inch or two from their pinky when holding the racket and some don't have any space at all from the buttcap. Whichever one you are, experiment after putting lead. Play with your normal grip position first, then slightly move to the higher or lower bevels of position. What this will provide you is information on how the lead is performing for you. For instance, I added lead to the bottom of the handle and 3 & 9 played with it on a grip I don't normally do (higher on the handle), the racket played well when I would hold the handle at a certain height. If I moved lower on the handle I didn't feel the racket hitting the sweetspot. If you experiment with the grip height you'll be able to ball park what you may have to do, whether it be add or take off weight. If you hold low on the handle, the more weight on the head, the more whip needed to cause spin. If you now hold the racket mid way handle now the characteristics of hitting changes you'll feel the ball impact and react differently examples maybe less spin, flatter balls, more power. Your handle leverage changes causing the swing motion to be faster or slower. Think of it like a hammer.
This is why some of us hit the forehand the same side of the racket all the time. We've created a holding point on the handle that is comfortable, the way the bevels from the grip help us know everytime thats where it should be.
IMO this should be calculated when adding weight, but no one gets into it because you then experiment and offset which eventually adding more or less weight will get you to where you want.
I'm trying to counterbalance my racquet to get closer to the stock balance but I don't quite understand some things about lead placement. To get the balance I desire, I will need to add about 8-10g to the head.
In my case it sounds like the OP advocates adding lead to 12 o'clock OR 3 and 9, but NOT both. Are there any reasons for this? Can you not add stability by adding at 3&9, and add more power by adding lead to 12 too?
Can anyone provide some advice for my situations?
In my case it sounds like the OP advocates adding lead to 12 o'clock OR 3 and 9, but NOT both. Are there any reasons for this? Can you not add stability by adding at 3&9, and add more power by adding lead to 12 too?
Can anyone provide some advice for my situations?
I take a Pure Drive GT + with leather grip and truncate the grip before the end of the handle palette and place 9g of lead tape at that gap and then put an overgrip over all that.
I have a poly/multi hybrid at 55 lbs.
I haven't really meddled much with lead, but I have tried 12, 3/9 etc. but this set up seems to allow me to drive the ball for a winner, and also allows me to have substantial access to spin by just reverse finishing ala. Nadal. Somehow this set up makes the racket feel like a whip to me but with plow through as well? All at 12oz flat.
Anyone explain the mechanism behind this haha. It seems to me that this racket already has great access to spin and power on ground strokes and serve (Pure Drive Reputation) with a relatively low tension which is not even full poly, therefore by adding the weight I create more headlight balance and more stability? I have sick access to power with this racket, and the spin I can also create allows me to counter punch and play angles when I want and dictate the point when I want too.
The only issue I seem to have is with drop shots are a little tough (which I think is mostly technique) and volleys, although that has been better by being more firm and deliberate with the racket
Any thoughts or anyone lead this baby up similar?
I have a poly/multi hybrid at 55 lbs.
I haven't really meddled much with lead, but I have tried 12, 3/9 etc. but this set up seems to allow me to drive the ball for a winner, and also allows me to have substantial access to spin by just reverse finishing ala. Nadal. Somehow this set up makes the racket feel like a whip to me but with plow through as well? All at 12oz flat.
Anyone explain the mechanism behind this haha. It seems to me that this racket already has great access to spin and power on ground strokes and serve (Pure Drive Reputation) with a relatively low tension which is not even full poly, therefore by adding the weight I create more headlight balance and more stability? I have sick access to power with this racket, and the spin I can also create allows me to counter punch and play angles when I want and dictate the point when I want too.
The only issue I seem to have is with drop shots are a little tough (which I think is mostly technique) and volleys, although that has been better by being more firm and deliberate with the racket
Any thoughts or anyone lead this baby up similar?
jbTennissee
New User
Without sounding dumb (hopefully), does anyone know if lead tape sold today is truly made of lead metal, or is it possibly a non-toxic alloy with similar density and flexibility? When I press it down on the frame I get black smudges on my fingers, and if this is really lead it may not be healthy to smear into your skin, especially if you do it frequently.
chicken nugget
New User
what do i do when i want my racquets to weigh exactly the same?
You can do whatever you want. Remember this is an experiment to find what you like. I have lead on my K88's. 4 grams at 3, 4 grams at 9 and 2 grams at 12. There is an equal amount on the handle 7 inches from the bottom to counter balance the head. This created a very powerful racket using a hybrid string of VS with a multifilament. It provides plenty of power, control and spin for me. If you try something and it doesn't work for you try something else.
GoodSamaritan
Rookie
Is the only effect of putting lead tape on the handle making the racquet more headlight? Like does it make the racquet less stable or anything? Also, how much is the swingweight increased if I add 4 grams of lead at 3 and 9 (2 inches each side for both sides)? Thanks!
Big_Dangerous
Talk Tennis Guru
Which ever one is heavier modify the lighter one with lead tape to be that heavy. You'll need a scale and perhaps a balance board.
need clarification
Thank you for the original post: it is useful and informative.
I need to confirm the following: if I follow the method described above for a depolarized setup, will the resulting balance of the racquet be the same as before adding any weight? For example, my racquet is 3 points headlight. I add 30 g as indicated in a depolarized setup. Will the resulting racquet be 3 points headlight?
Thank you in advance.
Thank you for the original post: it is useful and informative.
I need to confirm the following: if I follow the method described above for a depolarized setup, will the resulting balance of the racquet be the same as before adding any weight? For example, my racquet is 3 points headlight. I add 30 g as indicated in a depolarized setup. Will the resulting racquet be 3 points headlight?
Thank you in advance.
